Anyone have a hobbyist CNC machine?

[Leros]

Need to get a 3D printer first so the first CNC machine can be built with the 3D printer then the 2nd CNC machine is built with the first CNC machine. :biggrin:

Add some AI into the computer so it just self heals itself if it breaks down.

I've got an original Makerbot Cupcake. The thing is finicky as heck and has a super small build area compared to the 3d printers nowadays. I'm thinking about buying a Rostock Max v2 kit: http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit

 

[gorobei]

are all the home cnc just 3 axis? if they can only do planar cutting it seems a little limited.

I've got an original Makerbot Cupcake. The thing is finicky as heck and has a super small build area compared to the 3d printers nowadays. I'm thinking about buying a Rostock Max v2 kit: http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit

yeah, i've been looking at a bunch of delta arm printers. lots of advantages over conventional 3d printers: fixed base, less calibration issues, simpler/fewer parts, faster lighterweight effector head. the only issue i've seen mentioned is lower res than a cartesian printer.

 

[stargazr]

are all the home cnc just 3 axis? if they can only do planar cutting it seems a little limited.

Really? What would you want to make in your basement that would require a 5-axis machine?

 

[gorobei]

Really? What would you want to make in your basement that would require a 5-axis machine?

4 axis is enough for a lot of stuff. i would like to try making my own lever bow with an aluminum riser some day, but there are tons of little shapes that you cant do with just 3 axis.

 

[JCH13]

What I really want to do is CNC mod a mini lathe. :awe:

Start here: http://www.sherline.com/8400pg.htm

Sherline also has mills, they're quite capable little machines as long as they're taken care of.

Anyone who has one are they particularly loud?

They are as loud as whatever spindle you're running or whatever the loudest accessory is. My router table is quite loud when the 2.25hp router is going at 24krpm and the vacuum system is full-tilt. I always have hearing protection on when it's running like that, whereas when it's at 8krpm and has an air blast instead of a vacuum I don't need hearing protection and have have a conversation on the other side of my shop.

4 axis is enough for a lot of stuff. i would like to try making my own lever bow with an aluminum riser some day, but there are tons of little shapes that you cant do with just 3 axis.

I would love to see "tons of shapes" that can't be made with a 3-axis machine but that can be made with a 4-axis machine. A 4th axis can make certain jobs easier or faster, but they're not magical. Creative fixtures are all that is needed in most cases.

I say this while the PCNC 1100 in my garage has a 4th axis, FWIW.

 

[Kaido]

I've got an original Makerbot Cupcake. The thing is finicky as heck and has a super small build area compared to the 3d printers nowadays. I'm thinking about buying a Rostock Max v2 kit: http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit

I think 3D printers are cool & would love to have one, but the technology is progressing so rapidly that I haven't felt like it's worth investing in quite yet. Plus, Shapeways (3D printing service) is ridiculous these days...they have sooooo many materials available & are always upgrading the DPI & whatnot of their services with new tools & other gear:

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/material-status

Plastics:

* White Strong & Flexible
* Strong & Flexible Polished
* Frosted (detail, ultra detail)
* Regular detail (black, white, transparent)
* Metallic plastic
* Elasto plastic
* Full color plastic

Metals: (including Platinum, 18k Gold, 14k Rose Gold & 14k White Gold)

* Gold
* Platinum
* Steel (matte, polished)
* Silver (raw, polished, premium)
* Brass (raw, polished, gold-plated)
* Bronze raw, polished)

Earthenware:

* Sandstone (including full color)
* Ceramics
* Castable wax

Even crazier is that they just added castable wax:

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/wax?etId=15594638

So you can do your own metal casting:

http://static1.sw-cdn.net/files/cms/materials/wax-lure-w-metal.jpg

The full-color sandstone is totally awesome too:

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/full-color-sandstone

The best part is, all you have to do is send them a CAD file & money, and they send you a part! No investment in a machine, material supplies, or time to do machine setup & tinkering. There are some services available for CNC stuff as well...eMachineShop does metal & plastic cutting online:

http://www.emachineshop.com/

I wish there were more CNC options for doing wood stuff online, like for building speaker enclosures & whatnot. There's a few, like this one:

http://allrout.com/

It will be interesting to see how the future plays out, especially now that food is being 3D-printed. There's a 3D printer called ChefJet coming out specifically to print sugary treats:

http://cubify.com/blog/sweet-spooky-3d-printing-with-the-sugar-lab-josh-harker/

 

[JCH13]

^ The machine shop I own and run is available for custom work (including CNC wood routing), if that's something you're looking for Kaido. We also do design consulting and review, a bit more value-add over a company like Shapeways that just mashes out whatever you send them.

 

[Kaido]

^ The machine shop I own and run is available for custom work (including CNC wood routing), if that's something you're looking for Kaido. We also do design consulting and review, a bit more value-add over a company like Shapeways that just mashes out whatever you send them.

How's your MDF skills for a pair of speaker cabinets?

 

[JCH13]

How's your MDF skills for a pair of speaker cabinets?

They only big plywood work I've done was this:

For this robot:

I was able to hold about 0.005-0.010in tolerance across the biggest pieces, and have since improved the machine.

So, they're alright, I guess. :sneaky:

 

[malbojah]

^ The machine shop I own and run is available for custom work (including CNC wood routing), if that's something you're looking for Kaido. We also do design consulting and review, a bit more value-add over a company like Shapeways that just mashes out whatever you send them.

Wish I had the specs for the cell phone dock being bandied about on the OnePlus forums

https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/3d-printed-oneplus-one-dock-station.118772/

 

[Leros]

I'm getting near the end of building this DIY 40w laser cutter: http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/02/buildlog-net-2-x-laser/

I just finished the wiring tonight. I still need to configure the computer to drive it, wire the laser, setup the cooling, and setup the exhaust ventiliation.

I want to get a CNC router as some point. I'm very likely to go with the Shapeoko 2. I suspect I'll outgrow it pretty quickly, but it's a super cheap starter CNC. $600 to start isn't bad.

Replying to myself....

I got the electronics finished and now I'm configuring the software to drive the laser.

We've got movement!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALADqjQqUdI

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Thanks to eBay and Amazon, I now have half of a Shapeoko 2 setup shipping from China. (Electronics and spindle.)

Once it gets here, I'll make sure that stuff works, then order then mechanical kit from Inventables. Also, if my math is right and I don't screw anything up, I will have spent $640 on a better setup than the $650 Full Kit they sell.

 

[Leros]

Thanks to eBay and Amazon, I now have half of a Shapeoko 2 setup shipping from China. (Electronics and spindle.)

Once it gets here, I'll make sure that stuff works, then order then mechanical kit from Inventables. Also, if my math is right and I don't screw anything up, I will have spent $640 on a better setup than the $650 Full Kit they sell.

Links?

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Links?

400w DC spindle:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191267009805?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649

"Quiet Spindle" from inventables is similar, but 300w. Also, a few bucks more.

DC Power supply:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inventables wants $85 for a 400w or $65 for a 350w.

Stepper motors:

www.ebay.com/itm/161071121692?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649

Equivalent stepper motors from Inventables are similar, but 60-something oz torque vs. 76oz. Also a few bucks more.

Spindle controller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231260535858?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$13 vs. $35 for the Inventables one. Yes, the expensive one can be controlled by the Arduino, but I think I'll manage anyway.

The generic 24v/90w laptop power adapter Inventables sells to power the electronics and motors is $35, but I had a similar capacity one in the spares bin.

I got the arduino and gshield from Inventables, since they weren't cheaper anywhere else.

Most of the savings, though, is from not buying another set of tools and accesories I already own. (The packages include things like wire, usb and power cables, heat shrink tubing, a generic dremel tool I'd be throwing away, etc.) then turning around and spending that money on a nicer spindle and power supply.

Also, as it happens, my math was wrong. It'll be about $720. I'll be sure to post a full set of receipts and a build log when I'm done. But all I've got left to order is the mechanical kit and a few bucks worth of screws. (It'll be a couple weeks before all this stuff arrives and I can make sure it works, so I don't need to do that in a hurry.)

 

[SSSnail]

how did i get here?

 

[dave_the_nerd]

how did i get here?

Are you sure this was in the right thread?

 

[JCH13]

400w DC spindle:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191267009805?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649

"Quiet Spindle" from inventables is similar, but 300w. Also, a few bucks more.

DC Power supply:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inventables wants $85 for a 400w or $65 for a 350w.

Stepper motors:

www.ebay.com/itm/161071121692?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649

Equivalent stepper motors from Inventables are similar, but 60-something oz torque vs. 76oz. Also a few bucks more.

Spindle controller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231260535858?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$13 vs. $35 for the Inventables one. Yes, the expensive one can be controlled by the Arduino, but I think I'll manage anyway.

The generic 24v/90w laptop power adapter Inventables sells to power the electronics and motors is $35, but I had a similar capacity one in the spares bin.

I got the arduino and gshield from Inventables, since they weren't cheaper anywhere else.

Most of the savings, though, is from not buying another set of tools and accesories I already own. (The packages include things like wire, usb and power cables, heat shrink tubing, a generic dremel tool I'd be throwing away, etc.) then turning around and spending that money on a nicer spindle and power supply.

Also, as it happens, my math was wrong. It'll be about $720. I'll be sure to post a full set of receipts and a build log when I'm done. But all I've got left to order is the mechanical kit and a few bucks worth of screws. (It'll be a couple weeks before all this stuff arrives and I can make sure it works, so I don't need to do that in a hurry.)

It's not all about watts and oz-in of torque. I am left to wonder what compromises were made to reach those lower prices.

Is the run-out on the cheaper spindle as good as the more expensive one? Or will you be roasting bits super-fast? Is the machine remotely stiff enough to take advantage of the extra 100W of cutting power? Is that power available or a wide RPM, or is the spindle motor more "peaky" in it's power availability?

Is the shaft play and temperature tolerance as good on the cheaper stepper motors? Or will you be losing accuracy at starts and stpos and losing holding toque when they warm up? The cheaper ones use more power and have a lower temperature tolerance.

Are the small, and closely-packed, heat sinks on the cheaper speed controller going to work for the same duty-cycle as the nicer, larger one from inventables? Does it have the same linearity in power delivery? Is it as controllable? Is the output switching frequency comparable?

Now, the answer to all of these might be "I don't really care," just don't jump to the conclusion that this less-expensive equipment will make your machine 'better' because one or two of the specs are better than the inventables hardware.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

It's not all about watts and oz-in of torque. I am left to wonder what compromises were made to reach those lower prices.

Well, they're not that much lower.

Is the run-out on the cheaper spindle as good as the more expensive one? Or will you be roasting bits super-fast? Is the machine remotely stiff enough to take advantage of the extra 100W of cutting power? Is that power available or a wide RPM, or is the spindle motor more "peaky" in it's power availability?

Reading the shapeoko forums, it seems like the stock frame is good for anything up to the DeWalt 660 in terms of power and size, and folks are using various size generic "cheap" DC spindles from eBay with success. So I'm actually not expecting that to be an issue.

Is the shaft play and temperature tolerance as good on the cheaper stepper motors? Or will you be losing accuracy at starts and stpos and losing holding toque when they warm up? The cheaper ones use more power and have a lower temperature tolerance.

The temperature tolerance listed is for ambient temperature - if it's >104 degrees in the garage, I'm not going to be working either. There is some power headroom on the gShield, so drawing more power shouldn't be a big deal - a lot of folks use the same electronics to drive the -23s from Inventables. (Although not as efficiently as they could be.)

Are the small, and closely-packed, heat sinks on the cheaper speed controller going to work for the same duty-cycle as the nicer, larger one from inventables? Does it have the same linearity in power delivery? Is it as controllable? Is the output switching frequency comparable?

True. I don't expect it will great. My hope is to get a proper PWM-controlled speed controller later on.

Now, the answer to all of these might be "I don't really care," just don't jump to the conclusion that this less-expensive equipment will make your machine 'better' because one or two of the specs are better than the inventables hardware.

Oh, no, I understand that there are tradeoffs. But I think I have a pretty good idea of which things fall on which side of the 80/20 rule - and I'm pretty sure that addressing all the concerns you've raised would double the price of the machine. :awe:

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Got it. Built it. It works. Did my marker tests last weekend.

Videos coming after I mill something interesting.

 

[Tommy2000GT]

Those DIY CNC mills are terrible. If you want a cheap hobbyist mill buy a used Bridgeport and retrofit to CNC

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Those DIY CNC mills are terrible. If you want a cheap hobbyist mill buy a used Bridgeport and retrofit to CNC

You're kidding right? Those things weigh a couple tons and are the size of a refrigerator.

This hobbyist stuff is one step up and two steps over from computer-controlled scrapbooking, and is definitely only fit for wood and plastics. You guys talk like the expectation is to start mass producing transmission parts or something.

 

[pete6032]

Those DIY CNC mills are terrible. If you want a cheap hobbyist mill buy a used Bridgeport and retrofit to CNC

OK I will be sure to spend several thousand dollars and carry it up to my second floor apartment.

 

[rstrohkirch]

best hobbyist cnc mill no contest is a bf20 clone. something like a grizzly g0704. nothing comes close to size, price and capability. you can get the mill and almost everything for a cnc setup for $3000 depending on what software you use.

 

[JCH13]

Those DIY CNC mills are terrible. If you want a cheap hobbyist mill buy a used Bridgeport and retrofit to CNC

There are two reasons why brigeports are sold: (1) shop is going out of business, not too common, or (2) it's not worth repairing. Plus they're insanely heavy, expensive to move, and often require 3-phase power. They're not at all a 'hobbyist' level machine and are ridiculous overkill for most people.