Anyone familiar with trailer hitches?

[Doggiedog]

I need to move some stuff from one city to another but renting a truck one way costs over $300. I was thinking of buying a trailer hitch for my SUV and renting a trailer for $75 instead.

I looked at options for the cargo hitch for my SUV but it's $550. I saw that U-Haul sells hitches for $135.

Is there anything else I would need to know? Is that a good price? Anywhere else I should look? I'm not planning on hauling anything else (no boats, jet skis, etc). I figure I'll just leave the hitch on to punish people if they ever rear end me when I leave my car parked.

 

[Thegonagle]

Pull out the yellow pages and make some calls. Then go to a garage that installs Reese, Rigid Hitch, or Draw-Tite hitches, and have them hook you up. They should be competitive with U-Haul's price, but better quality in all likelyhood. I don't care who makes those U-Haul hitches, don't put one on your truck. Save yourself the shame of advertising for them, because U-Haul sucks! (Just my humble opinion, shared by millions.)

 

[chiwawa626]

Mabey some online aftermarket places have em?

 

[Doggiedog]

Originally posted by: Garfang
Pull out the yellow pages and make some calls. Then go to a garage that installs Reese, Rigid Hitch, or Draw-Tite hitches, and have them hook you up. They should be competitive with U-Haul's price, but better quality in all likelyhood. I don't care who makes those U-Haul hitches, don't put one on your truck. Save yourself the shame of advertising for them, because U-Haul sucks! (Just my humble opinion, shared by millions.)

Cool! Thanks for the tips.

 

[SuperSix]

I'm partial to Draw-tite units - and they are cheaper that U-Haul.

 

[Zenmervolt]

If you've got a V8 SUV, get a Class V hitch. It's overkill most of the time, but that one time you need it, you'll be glad it's there and as long as you're getting one put on, might as well go all the way. If you've got a V6, go with a Class III hitch, Class III has lower capacity than a Class V, but there aren't any V6 engines that I can think of that are capable of hauling anything more than a Class III can handle.

If you've got a Ford and a bumper hitch, just put a ball on the bumper and go. Ford's recent bumper capacities are 3,500 lbs trailer weight with 350 lbs tongue weight. A U-haul trailer shouldn't be heavier than that.

ZV

 

[Doggiedog]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
If you've got a V8 SUV, get a Class V hitch. It's overkill most of the time, but that one time you need it, you'll be glad it's there and as long as you're getting one put on, might as well go all the way. If you've got a V6, go with a Class III hitch, Class III has lower capacity than a Class V, but there aren't any V6 engines that I can think of that are capable of hauling anything more than a Class III can handle.

If you've got a Ford and a bumper hitch, just put a ball on the bumper and go. Ford's recent bumper capacities are 3,500 lbs trailer weight with 350 lbs tongue weight. A U-haul trailer shouldn't be heavier than that.

ZV

Yeah I was thinking of getting a Class III hitch. My towing capacity is only 2500lbs, 3500lbs if its a boat (V6 Acura). I don't plan on hauling anything after this though. I figure I'd rather save some money and have something to show for it afterwards. I don't think I need a hitch with an electrical system, just a ball hitch.

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: SuperSix
I'm partial to Draw-tite units - and they are cheaper that U-Haul.

Yeah, I don't know too much about them, so I'm not partial to any of them. I just know that those are the "big three," so you probably won't go wrong with any of them, as opposed to a more generic make.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Doggiedog

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
If you've got a V8 SUV, get a Class V hitch. It's overkill most of the time, but that one time you need it, you'll be glad it's there and as long as you're getting one put on, might as well go all the way. If you've got a V6, go with a Class III hitch, Class III has lower capacity than a Class V, but there aren't any V6 engines that I can think of that are capable of hauling anything more than a Class III can handle.

If you've got a Ford and a bumper hitch, just put a ball on the bumper and go. Ford's recent bumper capacities are 3,500 lbs trailer weight with 350 lbs tongue weight. A U-haul trailer shouldn't be heavier than that.

ZV

Yeah I was thinking of getting a Class III hitch. My towing capacity is only 2500lbs, 3500lbs if its a boat (V6 Acura). I don't plan on hauling anything after this though. I figure I'd rather save some money and have something to show for it afterwards. I don't think I need a hitch with an electrical system, just a ball hitch.

Uh, you'll need an electrical connection to make the lights work. That's kind of necessary. You won't need a big connector for trailer brakes or anything like that, but you will need at least a flat, four-pin connector so that the turn signals and the brake lights on the trailer will work.

ZV

 

[Doggiedog]

I thought the U-haul trailers had an extension cord of some sort that connected directly to the electrical system?

The hitch I looked at was really complex. I don't want to deal with having to rewire the electrical system just to attach a hitch.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Doggiedog
I thought the U-haul trailers had an extension cord of some sort that connected directly to the electrical system?

The hitch I looked at was really complex. I don't want to deal with having to rewire the electrical system just to attach a hitch.

The electrical connector on page six is the most basic type. Very common on boat trailers and such. That is the basic four pin connector. The U-Haul trailers require a standard hitch wiring plug. Luckily for you, the wiring is easy-ish to install. It just piggybacks off of the normal wiring. In fact, judging from the diagrams you linked to, there is a connector to just plug the hitch harness into. Any shop that will weld in a hitch will also install the Honda OE wiring harness. Just get the dealer to order only the wiring adaptor for you, shouldn't be a big deal. In fact, all three of our Explorers have had the trailer wiring harness laying in the jack area but not installed.

ZV

 

[Doggiedog]

Thanks ZV.

Another stupid question but are all connecting hitches (ie. the U-haul trailer's hitch) compatible with each other?

 

[Wolfie]

Hitches are not so easy to install. Lots of times, you have to bolt it up to the frame, either between the bumper brakets and the frame or outside/inside the frame. Most of the time you use the same bolts that hold the bumper onto the car. But of course all cars are different. Some are welded on. But that can be a pain if you have a rear tire that is mounted under the rear of the car. But when you bring it in somewhere, they should install the electrical harness as part of the charge. But they are EASY to install. It looks like the wiring is already there. It's just pluged into what they call a DUMMY connector. Just unplug the connector, connect the Converter (explained later) and plug in the harness. Sometimes they are seperate. What the converter does is it takes your turn signals that are on a different bulb then your brake and tail lights and combines them into one wire for running lights, brake lights and turn signal lights on the trailer.

Typicaly the wire colors go like this...
Brown - Tail lights
Green - Right Turn and Brake light
Yellow - Left Turn and Brake light
White - Ground

I have installed roughly 10 different hitches in my time. And they are all different. But make sure you call around for prices. And make sure you don't get a Uhaul hitch. They are too expencive (they know you need one so they rape you on the price)

Class III is all you should need. The truck I have already has a Class III bumper but it sits too high for some trailers I pull. So the advantage of having a reciever helps in choosing how much of a drop or raise I need.

Good Luck...

Wolfie

 

[Thegonagle]

Yes. You definitely need lights. Don?t even think of running without lights!

For the lighting system, you can get a relatively simple to use wire harness at a place like Napa that you attach in between the plug for the tail lights and the lights themselves. That?s the easy part, if you can get the proper harness. You don?t even really need to install it permanently.

Don't bother with any electrical stuff that U-Haul sells, except for the adapter that adapts a normal, standard vehicle-trailer connector to U-Haul's proprietary electrical BS. (Seriously, you're better off if you can deal with anyone but U-Haul.)

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Wolfie
Hitches are not so easy to install. Lots of times, you have to bolt it up to the frame, either between the bumper brakets and the frame or outside/inside the frame. Most of the time you use the same bolts that hold the bumper onto the car. But of course all cars are different. Some are welded on. But that can be a pain if you have a rear tire that is mounted under the rear of the car. But when you bring it in somewhere, they should install the electrical harness as part of the charge. But they are EASY to install. It looks like the wiring is already there. It's just pluged into what they call a DUMMY connector. Just unplug the connector, connect the Converter (explained later) and plug in the harness. Sometimes they are seperate. What the converter does is it takes your turn signals that are on a different bulb then your brake and tail lights and combines them into one wire for running lights, brake lights and turn signal lights on the trailer.

Typicaly the wire colors go like this...
Brown - Tail lights
Green - Right Turn and Brake light
Yellow - Left Turn and Brake light
White - Ground

I have installed roughly 10 different hitches in my time. And they are all different. But make sure you call around for prices. And make sure you don't get a Uhaul hitch. They are too expencive (they know you need one so they rape you on the price)

Class III is all you should need. The truck I have already has a Class III bumper but it sits too high for some trailers I pull. So the advantage of having a reciever helps in choosing how much of a drop or raise I need.

Good Luck...

Wolfie

He's talking about having the hitch installed at a local welding shop I'm pretty sure. So that shop will probably be able to do the electrical connector too. We've had hitches put on three different vehicles (one Class I on an old Volvo, a Class III on a V6 Explorer, and a Class V on the current V8 Explorer) and each time the welding shop has had no trouble putting an electrical connector also.

ZV

 

[Wolfie]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: Wolfie
Hitches are not so easy to install. Lots of times, you have to bolt it up to the frame, either between the bumper brakets and the frame or outside/inside the frame. Most of the time you use the same bolts that hold the bumper onto the car. But of course all cars are different. Some are welded on. But that can be a pain if you have a rear tire that is mounted under the rear of the car. But when you bring it in somewhere, they should install the electrical harness as part of the charge. But they are EASY to install. It looks like the wiring is already there. It's just pluged into what they call a DUMMY connector. Just unplug the connector, connect the Converter (explained later) and plug in the harness. Sometimes they are seperate. What the converter does is it takes your turn signals that are on a different bulb then your brake and tail lights and combines them into one wire for running lights, brake lights and turn signal lights on the trailer.

Typicaly the wire colors go like this...
Brown - Tail lights
Green - Right Turn and Brake light
Yellow - Left Turn and Brake light
White - Ground

I have installed roughly 10 different hitches in my time. And they are all different. But make sure you call around for prices. And make sure you don't get a Uhaul hitch. They are too expencive (they know you need one so they rape you on the price)

Class III is all you should need. The truck I have already has a Class III bumper but it sits too high for some trailers I pull. So the advantage of having a reciever helps in choosing how much of a drop or raise I need.

Good Luck...

Wolfie

He's talking about having the hitch installed at a local welding shop I'm pretty sure. So that shop will probably be able to do the electrical connector too. We've had hitches put on three different vehicles (one Class I on an old Volvo, a Class III on a V6 Explorer, and a Class V on the current V8 Explorer) and each time the welding shop has had no trouble putting an electrical connector also.

ZV

No, that's cool. I just thought I would be a little informative in case he was plaing on installing his own.

 

[Grasshopper27]

This is one nice aspect to having a proper truck, most either have trailer hitches, or have the holes ready to have one dropped on right away without any work.

I've towed trailers several dozen times with my Expedition and Suburban. The only thing I have a complaint about is that if you add a 16' trailer to a Suburban, you've got a long, LONG vehicle/trailer combo and turns become and PITA!!!

: ) Hopper

 

[Hossenfeffer]

Anyone familiar with trailer hitches?

Like in the biblical sense?

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: Grasshopper27
This is one nice aspect to having a proper truck, most either have trailer hitches, or have the holes ready to have one dropped on right away without any work.

I've towed trailers several dozen times with my Expedition and Suburban. The only thing I have a complaint about is that if you add a 16' trailer to a Suburban, you've got a long, LONG vehicle/trailer combo and turns become and PITA!!!

: ) Hopper

And just try finding a place to park on the street in Chicago with that combo!

(I was cruising a Dealer trade up to St. Paul from Toledo and decided to stop a night and visit my sister there.)

 

[Grasshopper27]

Originally posted by: Garfang
And just try finding a place to park on the street in Chicago with that combo!

(I was cruising a Dealer trade up to St. Paul from Toledo and decided to stop a night and visit my sister there.)

Yea, no kidding...

Last time I did that, we stopped at a Jack in the Crack, had to park in the grass field across the street, 'cause there was no way I was getting into that tiny parking lot. So I just jumped the curb and drove into the field and parked there. *shrug*

: ) Hopper

 

[Doggiedog]

Thanks for all the helpful tips. After looking at some of those hitches, I never realized they stuck out so much. I always thought I could get one of those ball hitches that stuck out a couple inches from the bumper.

 

[radioouman]

If you want to do it yourself, go to Drawtite Hitches and order one. I ordered one from there for my Saturn SW2, and I'm just about to order one for my Dodge Dakota.

 

[Doggiedog]

Originally posted by: radioouman
If you want to do it yourself, go to Drawtite Hitches and order one. I ordered one from there for my Saturn SW2, and I'm just about to order one for my Dodge Dakota.

That's great! Exactly what I was looking for. However, I was just told by some people on the Acura site that my transmission warranty is voided if I use an aftermarket hitch.:| I need to get theirs which has some kind of transmission and engine cooler.

 

[Wolfie]

Originally posted by: Doggiedog

Originally posted by: radioouman
If you want to do it yourself, go to Drawtite Hitches and order one. I ordered one from there for my Saturn SW2, and I'm just about to order one for my Dodge Dakota.

That's great! Exactly what I was looking for. However, I was just told by some people on the Acura site that my transmission warranty is voided if I use an aftermarket hitch.:| I need to get theirs which has some kind of transmission and engine cooler.

What they are talking about is a Transmission cooler that is added to help cool the transmission. It is added usualy infront of the radiator. It's a SIMPLE addon if you want to tackle such a thing. Of course it all depends on how much room you have. A lot of the new trucks don't have the room anymore to get anything infront of the radiator. And most of the time you won't have room behind it either. :|

What do they want to charge for this??? I can only imagine it would be spendy. Since it's $96/hour here for labor charges. blah

I've towed trailers several dozen times with my Expedition and Suburban. The only thing I have a complaint about is that if you add a 16' trailer to a Suburban, you've got a long, LONG vehicle/trailer combo and turns become and PITA!!!

hahaha Try driving a semi. 53' trailer with a 180+" wheelbase tractor. You start to push that 70' length barrier. A 16' trailer like that isn't too bad.

Wolfie

 

[Doggiedog]

They want $550 just for the OEM parts. Labor is god knows what.