• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Any professional plumbers out there? Cast iron crack

Status
Not open for further replies.
BTRY B 529th FA BN

BTRY B 529th FA BN

Lifer
We have @ a 5' section of cast iron that cracked on us. Upon replacing the section with 4" PVC the bottom PVC to Cast Iron section is leaking. Can't seem to tighten the bands enough to stop it from leaking. There is a slight angle between the upper and lower cast iron pieces. We're using a PVC to Cast Iron rubber boot where the two meet but it doesn't seem to be fixing this. Any suggestions? besides call a plumber, hah
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not a plumber, but I would pull it back a part and clean everything really well including wire brushing the cast iron pipe. Then I would apply a good bead of silicone sealant to the joints, reassemble and allow to cure before using.
 
...Not a plumber. But I know one idiot who decided to "fix" a cast iron sewage pipe crack by sticking a steel rod into the hole. And there were questions about why it smelled like shit all the time in the room where the crack opened up -- one below the toilet.
 
Not a pro.
On the lower side are you connecting to a hub? If so, the fitting goes inside the hub and the pvc gets inserted into the fitting. Fitting looks more like a donut.
Just making sure you aren't trying to use a no hub, when indeed you need a hub fitting.
 
Apparently the city is requires specific types of boots to do this because alot of the same type of problems have been happening with the plumbing in the city. Don't ask me how the city knows this. Maybe the salesmen at the store knew more than us. Getting the boot in the next couple of days and will find out more about if that fixes it or not.

Thanks for all the replies, Cheers :beer:
 
BTRY B 529th FA BN said:
Apparently the city is requires specific types of boots to do this because alot of the same type of problems have been happening with the plumbing in the city. Don't ask me how the city knows this. Maybe the salesmen at the store knew more than us. Getting the boot in the next couple of days and will find out more about if that fixes it or not.

Thanks for all the replies, Cheers :beer:
Click to expand...
Because they get the complaints, fire dept calls for methane, building codes..that licensed plumbers should know.

I did what Tony said. My bro, the pro, would have a stroke.


Maybe I should have called him.:hmm:

😀
 
You should be using a stainless steel sleeve with a rubber liner to make the connection. There are two types, 2 band and four band, use the four band kind (two screw bands on each end of the fitting). Check the ends of the iron pipe carefully, if it was cut with a snap cutter, the pipe will sometimes crack. There might also be some raised lettering or manufacturers marks on the surface of the iron pipe that need to be ground off.
If you need to clean up the cut, a 4" grinder with a metal cutting wheel will do the job. Be sure to wear a mask or you'll be breathing shit dust, it tastes terrible.
 
can you drill a hole where the cast iron crack ends and then braze the crack up with some brass rod and a torch?
 
What is the diameter of the cast iron pipe?

I had to cleanup the work of a "pro" at my last house that had the same problem, this was on one of the horizontals that was a smaller size, but they put 3" PVC in connecting 2.5" iron and used a boot that was 3" on both sides. I had to buy a boot that flared on the one side like this.

0173022_L.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top