DAMMIT DAMMIT DAMMIT, just got "the" call. Dealer says the engine is done.... They said I have two options. $1900 for a kit of some sort that could clear up the problem or $4200 for a new engine. F#$K I don't need this right now. I'm a freaking college student who makes $16.50 an hour at my job. I can't afford this crap...
I've babied this damn truck since I bought it, guess the owner before me (had 30,000miles on it used...) didn't.
:|
I've babied this damn truck since I bought it, guess the owner before me (had 30,000miles on it used...) didn't.
:|You have discovered why I said "Best of Luck to ya" now on that new engine from GM EHOriginally posted by: Jugernot
DAMMIT DAMMIT DAMMIT, just got "the" call. Dealer says the engine is done.... They said I have two options. $1900 for a kit of some sort that could clear up the problem or $4200 for a new engine. F#$K I don't need this right now. I'm a freaking college student who makes $16.50 an hour at my job. I can't afford this crap...
I've babied this damn truck since I bought it, guess the owner before me (had 30,000miles on it used...) didn't.
Atleast call a junk yard, I've seen complete PCM and all LQ9's for $3000
After talking with a friend at the dealer, I got the price down to less than $3000 installed. He also said the tech said I might have caught it early enough that they can replace the bearing that have worn (main bearings) if nothing else was damaged like the camshaft. I'm guessing I'll still be out more than $1000 after they take apart the whole engine though.
So, it's not as bad as I thought.... my day ended much better than it started.
So, it's not as bad as I thought.... my day ended much better than it started.
If you have the engine out the extra work to redo the rest of it is a better bet than just swapping lower-end bearings. You can expect that if it is worn enough for the bottom end to be toast that at least fresh piston rings and a valve job are in order. As a rule replace oil pump and timing chain when the engine is out since they are inexpensive.
The nice thing about GM engines is that many rebuilders will sell remanufactured engines on an exchange basis at reasonable prices. Check this option out as it is often cost-effective vs opting to redo your present engine and then discovering more bad parts than you expected. The cost for removal and installation is the same, so research the best deal on swapping the engine.
A _complete_ rebuild of your engine should be about 1300-1500 bucks, which is a good ballpark figure for most common American engines.Removal/replacement costs vary with where ya live.
The nice thing about GM engines is that many rebuilders will sell remanufactured engines on an exchange basis at reasonable prices. Check this option out as it is often cost-effective vs opting to redo your present engine and then discovering more bad parts than you expected. The cost for removal and installation is the same, so research the best deal on swapping the engine.
A _complete_ rebuild of your engine should be about 1300-1500 bucks, which is a good ballpark figure for most common American engines.Removal/replacement costs vary with where ya live.
Damn.... I'd be so pissed if my car died at 62k. :Q
That said, don't do anything that seems half-assed... Your engine was running with no oil pressure..... You can expect unecessary wear on every friction surface in the engine.
If you really want to start over fresh.. and if you can afford it.. buy a brand new engine. That means every wear surface in the engine is at factory spec or better.
If you must, insist on a complete and thorough going through and rebuild of your current engine. Ask lots of questions. I would request to be there while they rebuilt it.
That said, don't do anything that seems half-assed... Your engine was running with no oil pressure..... You can expect unecessary wear on every friction surface in the engine.
If you really want to start over fresh.. and if you can afford it.. buy a brand new engine. That means every wear surface in the engine is at factory spec or better.
If you must, insist on a complete and thorough going through and rebuild of your current engine. Ask lots of questions. I would request to be there while they rebuilt it.
A properly done rebuild is a fine replacement for a damaged engine.
And if I were rebuilding it I'd charge extra for having a customer watch as they slow things down considerably.
Many shops won't let customers watch at all for insurance as well as productivity reasons.
Asking questions is fine, as is asking to see the trashed parts (good way to learn about wear) and for return of those not required as cores. I'd look very closely at any engine that died at 62K, especially after an oil change. Some shops have an oil filter cutter that allows neat removal of sheet metal oil filter housings. I'd use that or other non-particle-generating ways of opening the filter and check the element pleats for debris, and inspect the oil pump by removing the cover. That engine should have been good to 150K+ miles under reasonable use unless it was run low on oil or had oil delivery problems. Since it basically a cut-down small block Chevy there are no mysteries to it once ya tear it down.
And if I were rebuilding it I'd charge extra for having a customer watch as they slow things down considerably.
Many shops won't let customers watch at all for insurance as well as productivity reasons.
Asking questions is fine, as is asking to see the trashed parts (good way to learn about wear) and for return of those not required as cores. I'd look very closely at any engine that died at 62K, especially after an oil change. Some shops have an oil filter cutter that allows neat removal of sheet metal oil filter housings. I'd use that or other non-particle-generating ways of opening the filter and check the element pleats for debris, and inspect the oil pump by removing the cover. That engine should have been good to 150K+ miles under reasonable use unless it was run low on oil or had oil delivery problems. Since it basically a cut-down small block Chevy there are no mysteries to it once ya tear it down.
The above is an example of "swaptronics" rather than diagnosis. Charging a customer for parts (sender) that are a very reasonable first guess is wrong unless the parts prove their worth by fixing the problem, and in any event the pressure senders resistance would have been easy enough to measure with a DVM. Swapping the dash component without verifying it was bad practice and more work than hooking a direct guage to the oil system. Even if the engine sounded fine gauging the pressure is the obvious way to eliminate or very engine problems as the source.
I can't see replacing a truck for a bad engine, esp. since new vehicles are absurdly expensive. That's like tossing a computer because the power supply died.
The 4.3 is a good design, though in a full-sized truck I'd lean to replacing it with a small block V-8 since rebuild cost is so close. I'd fix it without hesitation if it were mine, and the economics of rebuild vs. replace are so good I never buy new trucks. Yet another route is an engine from a wreck, which, provided ya can hear it runbefore purchase, is a good way to save $$.
The 4.3 is a good design, though in a full-sized truck I'd lean to replacing it with a small block V-8 since rebuild cost is so close. I'd fix it without hesitation if it were mine, and the economics of rebuild vs. replace are so good I never buy new trucks. Yet another route is an engine from a wreck, which, provided ya can hear it runbefore purchase, is a good way to save $$.
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