Any issues with doing a brake flush using the 1-person bottle method?

[KIAman]

Yup, pressure bleeders work great. I got mine from Amazon and you don't even need to fill it with fluid as long as you fill the brake fluid to full before you start. Pump that sucker up to some serious PSI then go bleed the brakes. Just keep an eye on the fluid level to make sure you didn't accidentally bleed all the fluid out.

Did this for all of my cars.

 

[RayH]

Have never had a problem doing a one man brake flush but if the car is pushing more than 10 years you might want to think about removing the calipers and doing a rebuild. You'll be surprised at the stuff that accumulates behind the brake cylinder that does not get flushed.

You might be able to get most of it if you fully compress the cylinder and invert the caliper during a regular flush.

 

[Raizinman]

Honda would disagree with you.

The method described in the Honda factory service manual is the 2-person pump method. The 1-person pump method works based on the same principles.

I don't think Honda would disagree with me as:

Honda uses an ABS motor to pressurize the accumulator in the ABS system. Factory bleeding procedures for the ABS system and for brake fluid replacement both require the motor to be run at specific points in the bleeding procedure. The can be done by starting the engine and letting it run for a minute or so, or by hooking up a computer to the car and commanding the motor to run.

 

[996GT2]

I don't think Honda would disagree with me as:

Honda uses an ABS motor to pressurize the accumulator in the ABS system. Factory bleeding procedures for the ABS system and for brake fluid replacement both require the motor to be run at specific points in the bleeding procedure. The can be done by starting the engine and letting it run for a minute or so, or by hooking up a computer to the car and commanding the motor to run.

None of that is mentioned in the official factory service manual for either of my Hondas (a 2007 and a 2009). So, I'm not sure what your source is, but the FSM (the same one the dealership would use) doesn't agree with it.

 

[tortillasoup]

None of that is mentioned in the official factory service manual for either of my Hondas (a 2007 and a 2009). So, I'm not sure what your source is, but the FSM (the same one the dealership would use) doesn't agree with it.

Some Hondas and other makes have a booster pump/motor that can add pressure to the brake system. I know on the Volvos they have that, so do some Toyotas and newer Chrysler vehicles. It basically means that as long as you've got a working battery, you'll always have brake boost as no engine vacuum is necessary.

 

[Raizinman]

None of that is mentioned in the official factory service manual for either of my Hondas (a 2007 and a 2009). So, I'm not sure what your source is, but the FSM (the same one the dealership would use) doesn't agree with it.

Then explain how you intend to flush the dirty brake fluid out of the ABS accumulator?

Here is the procedure:

Bleed the base brake system using the standard pressure, vacuum or manual bleeding procedure.

Using the Honda or similar scan tool, select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then BLEED BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed. When the scan tool displays TEST COMPLETED, disconnect the scan tool and proceed. This cycles the accumulator.

Bleed the base brake system a second time. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir periodically to prevent emptying, causing air to enter the hydraulic system."

Basically, bleed the brakes conventionally, cycle the ABS pump, then bleed them again.