Any hardwood floor gurus here?

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shilala

Lifer
Oct 5, 2004
11,437
1
76
Originally posted by: CPA
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: CPA
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: labgeek
Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.
Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

where the hell are you buying your tools? You can get a table saw and compound mitre saw with stands for under $150 each, easily.
Yes I can, if I want to fix them with every cut I make, or waste lots of material making a square cut. I can't handle generic tools.
You are right though, I could buy junk tools and end up with a similarly shytty product.
Maybe that's a little harsh, but it's the way I fly. (I'm a craftsman by trade, we take the work that we produce as seriously as Gurck takes music.)

It's the blade that counts not necessarily the machine. Most machines in the 150-500 range cut at similar rpms. the more expensive ones can have a few more options on them, but I've never had an issue with getting a square cut.

I bought a GMC handheld planer the other day. It was the only one that would do up to an 1/8th of an inch, had adjustable blowholes and 3 blades (compared to all other brands two blade system). It was the cheapest and $30 less than the next one. It's worked like a charm.

I use my tools a lot. They get transported around to different houses I own and get a lot of time put on them. I don't fight dollars so much as quality. I like a tool that is well constructed and that I know will last. I'm not brand-specific, but I changed from Craftsman stuff to Dewalt stuff a long time ago. I like Bostich stuff, too.
If I could find an off-brand like Bosch or Hitachi that "felt" as good, I'd likely go that way and save a few bucks. I do own a Bosch 4 inch grinder that's a damn good tool and I've had it for years.
You're absolutely right about tooth count. Carbide high tooth count blades cost around 50 bucks a crack (12 inch). 10 inch run 40 bucks a crack. If I could get by with a 10 dollar blade, I'd do it. That's tough money to spend. It damn near makes me cry every time I have to shell it out. ;)

 

CPA

Elite Member
Nov 19, 2001
30,322
4
0
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: CPA
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: CPA
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: labgeek
Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.
Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

where the hell are you buying your tools? You can get a table saw and compound mitre saw with stands for under $150 each, easily.
Yes I can, if I want to fix them with every cut I make, or waste lots of material making a square cut. I can't handle generic tools.
You are right though, I could buy junk tools and end up with a similarly shytty product.
Maybe that's a little harsh, but it's the way I fly. (I'm a craftsman by trade, we take the work that we produce as seriously as Gurck takes music.)

It's the blade that counts not necessarily the machine. Most machines in the 150-500 range cut at similar rpms. the more expensive ones can have a few more options on them, but I've never had an issue with getting a square cut.

I bought a GMC handheld planer the other day. It was the only one that would do up to an 1/8th of an inch, had adjustable blowholes and 3 blades (compared to all other brands two blade system). It was the cheapest and $30 less than the next one. It's worked like a charm.

I use my tools a lot. They get transported around to different houses I own and get a lot of time put on them. I don't fight dollars so much as quality. I like a tool that is well constructed and that I know will last. I'm not brand-specific, but I changed from Craftsman stuff to Dewalt stuff a long time ago. I like Bostich stuff, too.
If I could find an off-brand like Bosch or Hitachi that "felt" as good, I'd likely go that way and save a few bucks. I do own a Bosch 4 inch grinder that's a damn good tool and I've had it for years.
You're absolutely right about tooth count. Carbide high tooth count blades cost around 50 bucks a crack (12 inch). 10 inch run 40 bucks a crack. If I could get by with a 10 dollar blade, I'd do it. That's tough money to spend. It damn near makes me cry every time I have to shell it out. ;)

I know what you mean about the blade costs. BTW, I'm usually a Craftsman guy myself, though Lowes is having a Friday-only sale a GMC Sliding Compound Mitre Saw. Not sure the price, but it'll be less than $180. Can't beat that on a sliding saw.

Nice floor too. I have Travertine tile and carpet throughout my house, but I've been thinking about putting hardwoods in my study. Just not sure about transitioning from tile to hardwoods.
 

Spike

Diamond Member
Aug 27, 2001
6,770
1
81
To have someone do ~750 sq ft of bamboo flooring, what would it cost in general? Just curious, the place we just bought has all bamboo flooring on the main floor...

-spike
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
shilala, what did you do with the table saw that you couldn't do with the miter saw?
 

Codewiz

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2002
5,758
0
76
Originally posted by: Spike
To have someone do ~750 sq ft of bamboo flooring, what would it cost in general? Just curious, the place we just bought has all bamboo flooring on the main floor...

-spike

If it is quality bamboo you are looking at $3500-5000 just in bamboo material costs. That is if you shop around to find a good price. For install just add about $4/sqft for installing.
 

shilala

Lifer
Oct 5, 2004
11,437
1
76
Originally posted by: Howard
shilala, what did you do with the table saw that you couldn't do with the miter saw?
Compound miters.
I can set up my table saw to make compound miters but can't push them through without screwing them up (on long trim pieces).
The compound miter is nice to drag along with me while I'm laying a floor. I sit it on the floor and keep it right with me. The table saw has to stay outside when I'm working in a finished place or else I make a mess out of everything.
I have a 2 gallon craftsman shop vac that I hook up to the miter box and it makes hardly any mess at all.
The miter saw I bought is a 12 inch and I can miter up to 6 inch material standing on edge. I don't really even need the compound, but couldn't find a 12 inch miter saw without it.
They had a 12 inch dual compound slider on sale at Lowes for about $500, but 1 man could barely carry it. They one I got has a handle on top and I can carry it around anywhere I go.
If I knew it was as nice as it is, I'd have had one long ago.
I use the table saw for ripping, making dado's, and carfing. All the stuff I can't do with a miter box.
I guess my thinking is just the opposite of yours, Howard.
I have a table saw to do everything I can't do with a mitre box.

 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: Howard
shilala, what did you do with the table saw that you couldn't do with the miter saw?
Compound miters.
I can set up my table saw to make compound miters but can't push them through without screwing them up (on long trim pieces).
The compound miter is nice to drag along with me while I'm laying a floor. I sit it on the floor and keep it right with me. The table saw has to stay outside when I'm working in a finished place or else I make a mess out of everything.
I have a 2 gallon craftsman shop vac that I hook up to the miter box and it makes hardly any mess at all.
The miter saw I bought is a 12 inch and I can miter up to 6 inch material standing on edge. I don't really even need the compound, but couldn't find a 12 inch miter saw without it.
They had a 12 inch dual compound slider on sale at Lowes for about $500, but 1 man could barely carry it. They one I got has a handle on top and I can carry it around anywhere I go.
If I knew it was as nice as it is, I'd have had one long ago.
I use the table saw for ripping, making dado's, and carfing. All the stuff I can't do with a miter box.
I guess my thinking is just the opposite of yours, Howard.
I have a table saw to do everything I can't do with a mitre box.
I was talking about the hardwood flooring, and I don't think you answered my question about that. :confused:
 

shilala

Lifer
Oct 5, 2004
11,437
1
76
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: Howard
shilala, what did you do with the table saw that you couldn't do with the miter saw?
Compound miters.
I can set up my table saw to make compound miters but can't push them through without screwing them up (on long trim pieces).
The compound miter is nice to drag along with me while I'm laying a floor. I sit it on the floor and keep it right with me. The table saw has to stay outside when I'm working in a finished place or else I make a mess out of everything.
I have a 2 gallon craftsman shop vac that I hook up to the miter box and it makes hardly any mess at all.
The miter saw I bought is a 12 inch and I can miter up to 6 inch material standing on edge. I don't really even need the compound, but couldn't find a 12 inch miter saw without it.
They had a 12 inch dual compound slider on sale at Lowes for about $500, but 1 man could barely carry it. They one I got has a handle on top and I can carry it around anywhere I go.
If I knew it was as nice as it is, I'd have had one long ago.
I use the table saw for ripping, making dado's, and carfing. All the stuff I can't do with a miter box.
I guess my thinking is just the opposite of yours, Howard.
I have a table saw to do everything I can't do with a mitre box.
I was talking about the hardwood flooring, and I don't think you answered my question about that. :confused:

Ripping the boards along their length would be one thing. Taking the bottoms out of the tongues where necessary. Making pieces that catch corners halway.
I use the table saw for any operation where a board has to be worked longways. I use the miter box for everything I have to do across the board.
I even make grooves in some instances.
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: shilala
Originally posted by: Howard
shilala, what did you do with the table saw that you couldn't do with the miter saw?
Compound miters.
I can set up my table saw to make compound miters but can't push them through without screwing them up (on long trim pieces).
The compound miter is nice to drag along with me while I'm laying a floor. I sit it on the floor and keep it right with me. The table saw has to stay outside when I'm working in a finished place or else I make a mess out of everything.
I have a 2 gallon craftsman shop vac that I hook up to the miter box and it makes hardly any mess at all.
The miter saw I bought is a 12 inch and I can miter up to 6 inch material standing on edge. I don't really even need the compound, but couldn't find a 12 inch miter saw without it.
They had a 12 inch dual compound slider on sale at Lowes for about $500, but 1 man could barely carry it. They one I got has a handle on top and I can carry it around anywhere I go.
If I knew it was as nice as it is, I'd have had one long ago.
I use the table saw for ripping, making dado's, and carfing. All the stuff I can't do with a miter box.
I guess my thinking is just the opposite of yours, Howard.
I have a table saw to do everything I can't do with a mitre box.
I was talking about the hardwood flooring, and I don't think you answered my question about that. :confused:

Ripping the boards along their length would be one thing. Taking the bottoms out of the tongues where necessary. Making pieces that catch corners halway.
I use the table saw for any operation where a board has to be worked longways. I use the miter box for everything I have to do across the board.
I even make grooves in some instances.
:eek: That stuff slipped my mind. Embarassing (I've seen it done a few times). :eek:
 

KoolAidKid

Golden Member
Apr 29, 2002
1,932
0
76
This thread has motivated me to replace the old carpet in my living and dining rooms with hardwood. I am looking to pick up mitre and table saws for the job (as well as for other projects). Can anyone tell me if these are good deals:

Compound Mitre Saw

and

table saw.

Thanks!

 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
<< has been installing hardwood flooring for over 20 years.

We generally prefer to put down a plastic vapor barrier and shoot down 3/4" plywood. Then nail down the 3/4" flooring when going over concrete.
Occasionally we will glue down the flooring to the concrete but only after sealing it with an epoxy sealer.