Any hardwood floor gurus here?

[Megamorph]

I have just ordered Mannington Washington Cherry Plank #WH05CS1 through a local flooring store. I'm in Houston, TX and they are charging me $10.45 per sq.ft. installed with tax.

The installed price does NOT include quarter round, T molding, or floating. Floating is $45/bag as needed.

I am doing a formal dining room and a guest bedroom. The combined square footage with waste for the 2 rooms is 373sf. Total cost without floating is $4,508. Does this sound about right?

My home was constructed in 2001 and is on a concrete foundation. Both rooms currently have carpet. What should be done prior to installation to ensure that moisture will not damage the floor at some point down the road? From what I gather, the only thing the installer has planned at this point is possibly some floating. They did say that they would check for moisture and if it was too high they would not do the job.

I'm a little concerned because the labor warranty is 90 days, but wouldn't it take a little longer for a problem to arise or become noticeable?

Any input would be appreciated.

 

[aidanjm]

so this will be floating timber flooring? (as in, timber floorboards floating on concrete)

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

if it's on a slab, put down a vapor barrier first.

price sounds about right if it's real dimensional wood planking (not laminate).

 

[Johnnie]

cheap price here

 

[shilala]

I've recently installed Mohawk 3/4 prefinished oak in my kitchen, dining room, and most recently my bathroom.
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.
I just installed floating laminate in an apartment we own. It's super simple.
There should be a vapor barrier beneath your concrete, making moisture a non-issue. If you're concerned, seal the floor prior to installation.
Link up that material you're using, wiil ya? I'd like to see it.

 

[biostud]

only expert in hard wood, not hardwood.

 

[shilala]

Here's a little update...
My sister-in-law just called. She owns a flooring business.
She said the moisture test involves duct-taping a ziplock bag down to the floor. You wait 48 hours and if there is any condenstaion under the bag, you fail.
I asked how you install solid wood flooring on a concrete floor. She said that some brands come with a clip system and raised bottoms that are specifically designed for concrete floors.
She said your price is right in line.
She also said that the floor will require a 5 mil or 15 mil (she couldn't remeber off the top of her head) moisture barrier film.
If the moisture test fails, you're doomed to carpet or tile.

 

[Kelemvor]

Is that real wood or is it the stuff that look slike wood but is the laminate planks? At that price I hope it's real wood or you're getting screwed.

 

[shilala]

Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
Is that real wood or is it the stuff that look slike wood but is the laminate planks? At that price I hope it's real wood or you're getting screwed.

It's solid wood. Aluminum oxide finish is solid prefinished.

 

[Megamorph]

THIS IS NOT LAMINATE. It is real wood. Prefinished.

It will be installed over concrete.

 

[labgeek]

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.

 

[Miramonti]

Originally posted by: biostud
only expert in hard wood, not hardwood.

Obviously a true do-it-yourself'er.

 

[shilala]

Originally posted by: labgeek

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.

Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

 

[CPA]

Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats
if it's on a slab, put down a vapor barrier first.

price sounds about right if it's real dimensional wood planking (not laminate).

correct and you shouldn't have to float unless the concrete guys did a sh!tty job on your slab.

I've done my own hardwood flooring. Used a vapor barrier and floated (did not glue or nail) the hardwood. Cost about 1600 for 450 sq ft and $900 for 250 sq ft.

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

As long as we have all these hardwood floor experts here . . .

The house I'm buying has lovely hardwood floors on the ground floor and stairs. The two upstairs bedrooms appear to have the same floors, but in one room they've painted them, and in the other there's carpet.

Assuming I rip out the carpet myself, what should I expect to pay to have the paint removed, and have the floors sanded and refinished? The entire area is about 400-500 square feet.

 

[CPA]

Originally posted by: shilala

Originally posted by: labgeek

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.

Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

where the hell are you buying your tools? You can get a table saw and compound mitre saw with stands for under $150 each, easily.

 

[shilala]

It's a do-it-yourselfer.
You rent a floor sander, buy lots of heavy grit paper, and run it till you're blue in the face.
All the cost is in monotonous monkey labor.
If you want to hire a pro to seal it, that may be a good idea, but it's also very doable for anyone. I'm sure you're plenty smart enough.
I'm guessing it'd cost in the 2-3 grand ballpark to have someone do it.
You can do it under $500, easy.

 

[Codewiz]

Rent the tools and do it yourself.

I did a complete install of Bamboo flooring of 600sqft for $2500 total.

You would run about $400 more for renting the tools.

 

[shilala]

Originally posted by: CPA

Originally posted by: shilala

Originally posted by: labgeek

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.

Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

where the hell are you buying your tools? You can get a table saw and compound mitre saw with stands for under $150 each, easily.

Yes I can, if I want to fix them with every cut I make, or waste lots of material making a square cut. I can't handle generic tools.
You are right though, I could buy junk tools and end up with a similarly shytty product.
Maybe that's a little harsh, but it's the way I fly. (I'm a craftsman by trade, we take the work that we produce as seriously as Gurck takes music.)

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer.
You rent a floor sander, buy lots of heavy grit paper, and run it till you're blue in the face.
All the cost is in monotonous monkey labor.
If you want to hire a pro to seal it, that may be a good idea, but it's also very doable for anyone. I'm sure you're plenty smart enough.
I'm guessing it'd cost in the 2-3 grand ballpark to have someone do it.
You can do it under $500, easy.

Huh - I guess I'll give it a try. As it happens this store is nearby, and they seem to know their stuff.

 

[shilala]

Originally posted by: DonVito

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer.
You rent a floor sander, buy lots of heavy grit paper, and run it till you're blue in the face.
All the cost is in monotonous monkey labor.
If you want to hire a pro to seal it, that may be a good idea, but it's also very doable for anyone. I'm sure you're plenty smart enough.
I'm guessing it'd cost in the 2-3 grand ballpark to have someone do it.
You can do it under $500, easy.

Huh - I guess I'll give it a try. As it happens this store is nearby, and they seem to know their stuff.

That's the spirit!!!

 

[CPA]

Originally posted by: shilala

Originally posted by: CPA

Originally posted by: shilala

Originally posted by: labgeek

Originally posted by: shilala
It's a do-it-yourselfer, but requires about $1,500 worth of tools.

What tools?? Geez we've been looking at hardwood flooring. No one has mentioned tools anywhere near that expensive. I'm begining to wonder if they aren't telling us something.

Table saw, $500. Compound Mitre Saw, $300. Compressor and finish nailer(s), $300-$500.
Blades to work the wood without making a mess of it, $100. Bostich stapler for hardwood floor and hammer for it, Rent for the weekend, $100 (buy at ebay for around $200, new about $300).
I own all the tools except the Bostich Stapler. I borrowed one from a contractor buddy of mine for my floors. I bought the table saw last go-around because mine sucked. I bought two finish nailers, a compressor and compound miter saw this go-around.
You could always cut and rip with your table saw and pound finish nails with a hammer and nailset after drilling all the holes in your hardwood. You'd never get nice tight seams though.
HArdwood floor shrinks DRAMATICALLY in the winter when the humidity drops and the heat is on. A loosely installed floor would look like hell.

where the hell are you buying your tools? You can get a table saw and compound mitre saw with stands for under $150 each, easily.

Yes I can, if I want to fix them with every cut I make, or waste lots of material making a square cut. I can't handle generic tools.
You are right though, I could buy junk tools and end up with a similarly shytty product.
Maybe that's a little harsh, but it's the way I fly. (I'm a craftsman by trade, we take the work that we produce as seriously as Gurck takes music.)

It's the blade that counts not necessarily the machine. Most machines in the 150-500 range cut at similar rpms. the more expensive ones can have a few more options on them, but I've never had an issue with getting a square cut.

I bought a GMC handheld planer the other day. It was the only one that would do up to an 1/8th of an inch, had adjustable blowholes and 3 blades (compared to all other brands two blade system). It was the cheapest and $30 less than the next one. It's worked like a charm.

 

[Kelemvor]

We got the lainated planks that look like wood and didn't need any fancy tools to install it.

Thread Here: http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...atid=38&threadid=1566658&enterthread=y

Miter saw to chop the ends off the boards that were too long and that's about it. Will borrow a nailed to put the trim pieces back on but that's it. TOtal cost was like $400-$500 and 8 hours of work.

 

[shilala]

Picture to support my affinity for oak.
Looking straight down, that's my oak floor, oak desk, oak filing cabinet, and the oak and wicker chair I put my feet on while I'm neffing.
I didn't realize I was so hopelessly addicted till just now.

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

Originally posted by: shilala

That's the spirit!!!

Yeah, the only concern I have, per that webpage, is that my house was built in 1914, and probably uses 3/8" planks. I'll have to take a closer look during the inspection - hopefully the inspector can shed some light on this.