wetobasura
Member
Play 9 holes every other month or so. That explains my scores in the 110-120 range. I use whatever hand me down clubs i can get. Think my irons are circa '85 Jerry Barber, have a rawlings 3 wood and rawlings fti driver.
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any golfers here on ATOT??
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SynthesisI
Banned
I'm not a regular player, but wish I was- I love the game. Probably my favorite, next to mountain biking.
I hit about a 90-95 and play with Wilson ProStaff irons, a Taylor Made driver and some really great titanium/graphite woods, but I can't remember the brand (shows you how long since I've played!). FORE!
I hit about a 90-95 and play with Wilson ProStaff irons, a Taylor Made driver and some really great titanium/graphite woods, but I can't remember the brand (shows you how long since I've played!). FORE!
GagHalfrunt
Lifer
I make clubs and mostly play stuff that you'd never have heard of. Don't get me started on equipment, that always turns into a long thread 😀
Season's over here in the northeast, buried under a barrage of snow. I ended the year with a handicap of +0.6 If anyone in a warm weather area wants to put me up for the winter I'll fit your equipment to you better and give a few lessons.
Season's over here in the northeast, buried under a barrage of snow. I ended the year with a handicap of +0.6 If anyone in a warm weather area wants to put me up for the winter I'll fit your equipment to you better and give a few lessons.
GagHalfrunt
Lifer
I make custom clubs, but there are so many problems with OEM clubs being out of spec that simply retrofitting them for proper loft, lie, swingweight and shaft flex can have a huge impact. Of course the problems with OEM's being so bad out of the box is why I use custom clubs in the first place.
I usually shoot in the 90s and I will shoot in the 80's when I am playing frequently.
Clubs
Golfsmith 350CM 8.5 deg. driver with TrueTemper BiMatrix X Flex Shaft
2 Wood 11deg Golfsmith Rough Rider Low Profile UST X Flex shaft
4 Wood 16deg Golfsmith Rough Rider Low Profile Stiff shaft
3-PW Original King Cobra Oversize Irons Stiff Steel Shafts
50 & 56 deg Custom Wedges Stiff Steel Shaft
Odyssey Rosie Putter
I really want a Titleist 975L-FE 8.5deg driver with a x flex shaft. It is probably the best driver I have hit thus far.
Clubs
Golfsmith 350CM 8.5 deg. driver with TrueTemper BiMatrix X Flex Shaft
2 Wood 11deg Golfsmith Rough Rider Low Profile UST X Flex shaft
4 Wood 16deg Golfsmith Rough Rider Low Profile Stiff shaft
3-PW Original King Cobra Oversize Irons Stiff Steel Shafts
50 & 56 deg Custom Wedges Stiff Steel Shaft
Odyssey Rosie Putter
I really want a Titleist 975L-FE 8.5deg driver with a x flex shaft. It is probably the best driver I have hit thus far.
GagHalfrunt
Lifer
The process is called "blueprinting". What it entails is essentially rebuilding the set from the ground up. The spec tolerances on OEM clubs are very loose, the lofts, lies, weights and flexes are all over the place. Every club needs to be measured, those off spec have to disassembled and adjusted or discarded if not fixable. The process is time consuming, labor intensive and often futile as some types of clubs can't be properly bent to make them conform. Sometimes, blueprinting a set of OEM irons can cost more than a good set of custom clubs, depending on how far off the set was to begin with. It's a process I don't recommend unless you're the type that absolutely HAS to have a certain brand name on your clubs. A set of custom irons built to perfect specs and fitted to you can be picked up for $300 to $600 depending on the components used. The big name OEMs run $500 to $1200 for clubs that don't fit and don't meet specs and it can cost $300+ more just to blueprint them to the point where they match customs. If you want clubs that work better than OEM and you don't care if your friends are not impressed by what's in the bag, it's MUCH cheaper to sell the clubs you've got and buy a good set of customs. You can actually come out ahead, if you've got a fairly new set of expensive OEMs you might be able to sell them for $500-$600 or even more which more than covers a set of customs. By blueprinting the existing set all you wind up doing is paying more out of pocket.
hmm so which brand of custom irons do u reccomend??
I have a swinger's type of swing (instead of a hitter), my SS is about 90-100 with a driver..
I am currently using the ping IS3 (cavity backs) I like its forgiveness... but I hit the balls REALLY high.... maybe thats the reason I loose distance
jlarsson
Golden Member
I have a handicap ~10.
In my bag ...
Nike Forged Titanium 350cc Driver ( I hate it, I used to have the Callaway Steelhead Plus)
Tommy Armour irons
Hippo putter (I've had this for years, never could get rid of it)
This coming spring, i'll be investing in a whole new set hopefully.
In my bag ...
Nike Forged Titanium 350cc Driver ( I hate it, I used to have the Callaway Steelhead Plus)
Tommy Armour irons
Hippo putter (I've had this for years, never could get rid of it)
This coming spring, i'll be investing in a whole new set hopefully.
N8Magic
Lifer
I usually shoot in the upper 80's or low 90's.
My equipment:
10° Ping TISI Driver
Callaway Steelhead + 3 Wood
Titleist 981 3-PW
Cleveland 588 RTG 56° SW and 60° LW
Ping Anser II Isopur Putter
I like these clubs, but I still miss my old set that was jacked from the trunk of my car. 🙁
My equipment:
10° Ping TISI Driver
Callaway Steelhead + 3 Wood
Titleist 981 3-PW
Cleveland 588 RTG 56° SW and 60° LW
Ping Anser II Isopur Putter
I like these clubs, but I still miss my old set that was jacked from the trunk of my car. 🙁
GagHalfrunt
Lifer
zOmb, I did a HUGE, long-winded screed about the OEM vs custom situation a while ago, you can still view it HERE.
The Ping irons are actually pretty decent. As OEM clubs go, they're among the best for quality control. They're the only major OEM that operates their own foundry, the others just outsource their club manufacturing to China. The Ping design is very forgiving, but that forgiveness comes with a high ball flight. To make the club forgiving, the weight is moved to the perimeter of the head with a lot of it place in the sole. That creates a very low center of gravity and a high ball flight. The stock Ping shafts are also pretty soft with way too much tip flex. The combination of low CG and softish shafts with a flexible tip can create a ball flight that balloons out of control. I'd recommend going to a clubfitter with a launch monitor to get your swing analyzed. It's possible that it's not your clubs at all and maybe your swing is off-plane so that you're merely coming into the ball too steeply which can cause superhigh shots. It's also possible that the low CG irons coupled to a tippy shaft it the culprit and you can fix things with a simple reshaft. Some shafts are stiff in the tip and flex towards the butt end of the club, that produces a much more boring trajectory. Reshafting a set of irons with a low trajectory shaft like Dynamic Golds and new grips should cost well under $200 including the launch monitor fitting session.
When having trouble with your game, don't go tossing money at new equipment without knowing what the problem is. Sometimes it's ill-fitting equipment that needs to be replaced, sometimes it's a simple adjustment to make the clubs fit and sometimes it's a swing flaw that new equipment will never correct. Always talk to a pro and/or a professional clubfitter, that way you can pinpoint the problem and correct it easily rather than buying new gear and just praying that it helps.
The Ping irons are actually pretty decent. As OEM clubs go, they're among the best for quality control. They're the only major OEM that operates their own foundry, the others just outsource their club manufacturing to China. The Ping design is very forgiving, but that forgiveness comes with a high ball flight. To make the club forgiving, the weight is moved to the perimeter of the head with a lot of it place in the sole. That creates a very low center of gravity and a high ball flight. The stock Ping shafts are also pretty soft with way too much tip flex. The combination of low CG and softish shafts with a flexible tip can create a ball flight that balloons out of control. I'd recommend going to a clubfitter with a launch monitor to get your swing analyzed. It's possible that it's not your clubs at all and maybe your swing is off-plane so that you're merely coming into the ball too steeply which can cause superhigh shots. It's also possible that the low CG irons coupled to a tippy shaft it the culprit and you can fix things with a simple reshaft. Some shafts are stiff in the tip and flex towards the butt end of the club, that produces a much more boring trajectory. Reshafting a set of irons with a low trajectory shaft like Dynamic Golds and new grips should cost well under $200 including the launch monitor fitting session.
When having trouble with your game, don't go tossing money at new equipment without knowing what the problem is. Sometimes it's ill-fitting equipment that needs to be replaced, sometimes it's a simple adjustment to make the clubs fit and sometimes it's a swing flaw that new equipment will never correct. Always talk to a pro and/or a professional clubfitter, that way you can pinpoint the problem and correct it easily rather than buying new gear and just praying that it helps.
IrocZman223
Senior member
I usually shoot in the mid 80s to low 90s
I use:
Irons: "older" set of cobra's
Driver: Callaway Biggest Big Bertha
Fairway woods: actually just broke both of mine, so I stick to a 3 iron (or borrow somebody's)
Putter: Just got the new Scotty Cameron Futura, and I love it
:beer:
I use:
Irons: "older" set of cobra's
Driver: Callaway Biggest Big Bertha
Fairway woods: actually just broke both of mine, so I stick to a 3 iron (or borrow somebody's)
Putter: Just got the new Scotty Cameron Futura, and I love it
:beer:
GagHalfrunt
Lifer
No idea. Golfsmith makes excellent component equipment, their GS and Snake Eyes lines are top notch, but I've never dealt with their clubfitters or repair services.
The economics: Good iron shafts run $5-15, grips $1-5. 8 irons in a set, reshafting will run $48-$160 for raw materials. Take a midline, the ever-popular True Temper Dynamic Golds (a low-flight shaft) run about $8 and most Golf Pride grips are around $2-3. So figure $80-$90 for the raw materials for a reshaft and allow $100 for labor. Talk to them and see what they recommend. If they quote you something in that price range you're not being ripped off. If they want $300 to reshaft your set you're getting hosed.
The economics: Good iron shafts run $5-15, grips $1-5. 8 irons in a set, reshafting will run $48-$160 for raw materials. Take a midline, the ever-popular True Temper Dynamic Golds (a low-flight shaft) run about $8 and most Golf Pride grips are around $2-3. So figure $80-$90 for the raw materials for a reshaft and allow $100 for labor. Talk to them and see what they recommend. If they quote you something in that price range you're not being ripped off. If they want $300 to reshaft your set you're getting hosed.
shutterFly
Member
Handicap: somewhere between 3-5
Driver: Titleist 975D 8.5 degree, Stiff
3-Wood: Callaway Warbird, Reshafted w/ TT Dynamic Gold X100
Irons: Mizuno MP-14 2-PW, Shafted w/ TT Dynamic Gold S300
Sand: Cleveland RTG 56 deg
Lob: Cleveland RTG 60 deg
Putter: Ping Anser
Driver: Titleist 975D 8.5 degree, Stiff
3-Wood: Callaway Warbird, Reshafted w/ TT Dynamic Gold X100
Irons: Mizuno MP-14 2-PW, Shafted w/ TT Dynamic Gold S300
Sand: Cleveland RTG 56 deg
Lob: Cleveland RTG 60 deg
Putter: Ping Anser
shutterFly
Member
For the municipal courses I think it's about $18 for locals ($24 with cart), and I think $35 or something around there for out-of-state on weekends. Weekdays might be a little cheaper (never played on a weekday). For the semi-private courses, anywhere from $45-60 for locals on weekends, and maybe as low as $35 on weekdays. For out-of-state, it's probably $100+ every day. Sometimes I see 2-for-1 specials for non-residents and other such deals.
What GagHalfrunt said. Which is exactly why I don't make clubs for anyone but beginers. I see to many people just getting into the game that spend $800 on a set of clubs get frustrated and quit. And i never recomend a driver for someone who is just starting. Start with a 3 wood off the tee until they get the feel of it. It crakc me up when people spend $300 plus on a driver and can't hit it then spend another $300 on another driver. My advice to them is spend the money on lessons instead. You would be supprised at what a few lessons will do for your game.
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