Any Beer Brewers in here?

[HomeBrewerDude]

Originally posted by: Turin39789

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude

Originally posted by: Unheard

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude
Below is the FYI pm I send to people. ...
--->also has a kit with kegging eq included.

Heh, beat you to your own post

you're better than me!

I got an Eastman Outdoors turkey fryer setup secondhand - but I'm pretty sure that it came with an aluminum stock pot and not stainless. Other posters indicate this is a bad thing. Do I need to get a new pot?

Aluminum is fine. The supposed connection between Aluminum and Alheizmers has been proven false, and there is no issue with flavors. A cheap Aluminum pot will be thicker than a cheap SS and I believe the heat diffusion rates are similar. A thick guage SS pot is preferrable to Aluminum, but are pricey. I have an enameled pot, and a Aluminum pot. They are the same.

If for some reason, you heated an empty aluminum pot over a turkey burner at full blast- you might melt out the bottom of the pot.... I don't know why you would ever do this though....

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude

Originally posted by: Turin39789

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude

Originally posted by: Unheard

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude
Below is the FYI pm I send to people. ...
--->also has a kit with kegging eq included.

Heh, beat you to your own post

you're better than me!

I got an Eastman Outdoors turkey fryer setup secondhand - but I'm pretty sure that it came with an aluminum stock pot and not stainless. Other posters indicate this is a bad thing. Do I need to get a new pot?

Aluminum is fine. The supposed connection between Aluminum and Alheizmers has been proven false, and there is no issue with flavors. A cheap Aluminum pot will be thicker than a cheap SS and I believe the heat diffusion rates are similar. A thick guage SS pot is preferrable to Aluminum, but are pricey. I have an enameled pot, and a Aluminum pot. They are the same.

If for some reason, you heated an empty aluminum pot over a turkey burner at full blast- you might melt out the bottom of the pot.... I don't know why you would ever do this though....

HomeBrewerDude gave some good info. I would add one more online source to the mix. You might try BrewYourOwnBrew

 

[davestar]

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: davestar

Originally posted by: ShockwaveVT
what's the difference/advantage to using a glass carboy to ferment instead of a 6gal plastic fermenting bucket?

that's already been answered in this thread, but...

plastic will scratch and the little crevices will harbor bacteria.

aside from going glass at the start, another easy way to improve your brews is to do a full-boil (all 5 gallons at once) rather than doing a 2-3 gallon boil and topping up. that's why i suggested a 6+ gallon pot.

Sorry, dude but there is no way you can do a primary ferment on a 5-gal batch in a carboy. Dont spread misinformation. :|

Edit: also, what in the hell are you doing to your ferment vessel to scratch it? Honeslty, if this is an issue i doubt you have ever produced a drinkable batch. I probably had to judge your swill at the sam adams longshot competition. :|

wow, harsh and narrowminded/uninformed. i see plenty of others have already shot you down, but i'll jump in too.

i have had one spoiled batch out of a dozen or so good ones. i changed a couple things in my setup after that spoiled batch (6.5 gallon carboy for primary, Star-san for sanitizing) and have had great results since then.

and as for your other post about the hot wort killing bacteria... if you're pouring hot wort into your primary and waiting for it to cool (or using an icebath), your beers probably probably suffer from excess dimethyl sulfide and haze. i've been using an immersion wort chiller which has improved the flavor and clarity of my beers.

and here's a :| for good measure :beer:

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: triska
I would never use the 5 gal plastic water jugs...(soft plastic will scratch and bacteria can wedge in the hard to clean spots) Morebeer.com has some pretty good starter kits-
for 10 dollars more and FREE SHIPPING...you get this (http://morebeer.com/view_product/15910/102142) I think that is the minimum for what you start-

As for your pot- If you are going to do it on your kitchen stove- opt for 5 gallon STAINLESS STEAL (not aluminum!) stock pot or frying pot- otherwise I'd go for at least a 10-12 gallon just so you save money in the long run- (when you do 5 gal beer batches, you will need to boil 6 gal b/c 1 gal boils off in steam) Plus if you move to 10 gal, you need ~11 gal + a lil space on top to prevent boil overs

You can get them from Home Depot or Lowe's- Usually there'll be a good deal on a turkey fryer...make sure Stainless steal...

Beer is fun - Morebeer is good b/c they have free shipping on a lot of items (not all) but they overcharge on some items so beware- make sure you check other homebrew sites...google homebrew (midwest, northernbrewer) and even hop stores online...Good luck and if you have any other questions feel free to ask

<galhagfrunt>IT'S STEEL<galhagfrunt> :beer:

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: davestar

wow, harsh and narrowminded/uninformed. i see plenty of others have already shot you down, but i'll jump in too.

i have had one spoiled batch out of a dozen or so good ones. i changed a couple things in my setup after that spoiled batch (6.5 gallon carboy for primary, Star-san for sanitizing) and have had great results since then.

and as for your other post about the hot wort killing bacteria... if you're pouring hot wort into your primary and waiting for it to cool (or using an icebath), your beers probably probably suffer from excess dimethyl sulfide and haze. i've been using an immersion wort chiller which has improved the flavor and clarity of my beers.

and here's a :| for good measure :beer:

pwned...also last I check a lot of judges know the results, but nothing of the means to get there.

 

[homercles337]

Originally posted by: davestar

Originally posted by: homercles337

Originally posted by: davestar

Originally posted by: ShockwaveVT
what's the difference/advantage to using a glass carboy to ferment instead of a 6gal plastic fermenting bucket?

that's already been answered in this thread, but...

plastic will scratch and the little crevices will harbor bacteria.

aside from going glass at the start, another easy way to improve your brews is to do a full-boil (all 5 gallons at once) rather than doing a 2-3 gallon boil and topping up. that's why i suggested a 6+ gallon pot.

Sorry, dude but there is no way you can do a primary ferment on a 5-gal batch in a carboy. Dont spread misinformation. :|

Edit: also, what in the hell are you doing to your ferment vessel to scratch it? Honeslty, if this is an issue i doubt you have ever produced a drinkable batch. I probably had to judge your swill at the sam adams longshot competition. :|

wow, harsh and narrowminded/uninformed. i see plenty of others have already shot you down, but i'll jump in too.

i have had one spoiled batch out of a dozen or so good ones. i changed a couple things in my setup after that spoiled batch (6.5 gallon carboy for primary, Star-san for sanitizing) and have had great results since then.

and as for your other post about the hot wort killing bacteria... if you're pouring hot wort into your primary and waiting for it to cool (or using an icebath), your beers probably probably suffer from excess dimethyl sulfide and haze. i've been using an immersion wort chiller which has improved the flavor and clarity of my beers.

and here's a :| for good measure :beer:

No one has "shot me down." I started brewing when i was 20 (that was ~15 years ago), all-grains after about two batches, and scored high enough on the BJCP exam at 21 to be national (My judge number is G0405. Just a few more points until i reach it--i dont judge much), and have many victories in home brew competitions (even one BOS). That being said, you are *totally* wrong about your claim of DMS as a result of hot-side aeration (if it occurs). Do you understand what O2 does to beer (DMS is not a consequency of HSA)? Given that you have had a batch that had DMS problems, im going to say that you have problems with sanitation, not with using plastic as a primary.

I should also clarify: Given that some folks seem to be prone to scratching their primary i was assuming their technique is flawed (if you cant take care of your equipment youre also not going to keep it clean). This means they are likely to hot-transfer. I dont and never have, but i do sanitize before transfer.

 

[homercles337]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: davestar

wow, harsh and narrowminded/uninformed. i see plenty of others have already shot you down, but i'll jump in too.

i have had one spoiled batch out of a dozen or so good ones. i changed a couple things in my setup after that spoiled batch (6.5 gallon carboy for primary, Star-san for sanitizing) and have had great results since then.

and as for your other post about the hot wort killing bacteria... if you're pouring hot wort into your primary and waiting for it to cool (or using an icebath), your beers probably probably suffer from excess dimethyl sulfide and haze. i've been using an immersion wort chiller which has improved the flavor and clarity of my beers.

and here's a :| for good measure :beer:

pwned...also last I check a lot of judges know the results, but nothing of the means to get there.

:roll:

 

[davestar]

Originally posted by: homercles337
No one has "shot me down." I started brewing when i was 20 (that was ~15 years ago), all-grains after about two batches, and scored high enough on the BJCP exam at 21 to be national (My judge number is G0405. Just a few more points until i reach it--i dont judge much), and have many victories in home brew competitions (even one BOS). That being said, you are *totally* wrong about your claim of DMS as a result of hot-side aeration (if it occurs). Do you understand what O2 does to beer (DMS is not a consequency of HSA)? Given that you have had a batch that had DMS problems, im going to say that you have problems with sanitation, not with using plastic as a primary.

I should also clarify: Given that some folks seem to be prone to scratching their primary i was assuming their technique is flawed (if you cant take care of your equipment youre also not going to keep it clean). This means they are likely to hot-transfer. I dont and never have, but i do sanitize before transfer.

as my post explained, my claim about DMS was that it builds up when hot wort sits around and isn't chilled quickly, not HSA... and i never claimed that i had DMS problems.

glass carboys takes a variable out of the sanitizing procedure. if some people prefer to do so, who gives a shit?

 

[nismotigerwvu]

Originally posted by: Ophir
I've found that running a piece of tubing from the top of the carboy into a separate water filled jug and using that as the airlock is much cleaner and just as effective.

The truth my friends....the effing truth

 

[HomeBrewerDude]

Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu

Originally posted by: Ophir
I've found that running a piece of tubing from the top of the carboy into a separate water filled jug and using that as the airlock is much cleaner and just as effective.

The truth my friends....the effing truth

like this:

blow_off_tube.jpg



simple diagram i did to represent all-grain brewing:
all_grain_flow_chart.jpg

my elaborate system:
brew.JPG

a sparge:
sparge.JPG

secondary fermentation (or maybe this was primary - note the almost clogged air locks):
Fermentation08-01-04.jpg

ahh, home grown hops (Cascade)
hopcloseupAugust3-2005.JPG
fresh_hops.JPG

Final product:
HandGrenade.jpg

 

[davestar]

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude
simple diagram i did to represent all-grain brewing:
all_grain_flow_chart.jpg

i like the large rectangle at the bottom

 

[Turin39789]

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude

Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu

Originally posted by: Ophir
I've found that running a piece of tubing from the top of the carboy into a separate water filled jug and using that as the airlock is much cleaner and just as effective.

The truth my friends....the effing truth

like this:

blow_off_tube.jpg



simple diagram i did to represent all-grain brewing:
all_grain_flow_chart.jpg

my elaborate system:
brew.JPG

a sparge:
sparge.JPG

secondary fermentation (or maybe this was primary - note the almost clogged air locks):
Fermentation08-01-04.jpg

ahh, home grown hops (Cascade)
hopcloseupAugust3-2005.JPG
fresh_hops.JPG

Final product:
HandGrenade.jpg

:heart:

I need to try my first batch sometime this year. I have visions of year round beer production and homegrown hops hopping in my head. I need to get some more experience than the barely drinkable MR. Beer batch I did.

 

[djheater]

I'm dismayed by some of hte nastiness in this thread. Brewers are supposed to be the most laid back and welcoming of hobbyists, all of you talking crap stop messing up our reputation.

I'm an extract brewer, I have huge time\space limitations maybe in a few years.
All 20 of my batches have used a (the same one) plastic bucket for fermentation. Never had a spoiled batch. Which I credit to a very early switch to Star-San. That stuff's awesome.


On-tap (well, bottles): American Pale
In secondary: Hard cider
Waiting to brew this sunday (hopefully): Belgian Ale (will be fermenting in a 6.5 gallon glass carboy for this one)


...might treat myself to a kegging setup for christmas...
I'm pretty sick of bottling now.

 

[HomeBrewerDude]

Originally posted by: djheater
I'm dismayed by some of hte nastiness in this thread. Brewers are supposed to be the most laid back and welcoming of hobbyists, all of you talking crap stop messing up our reputation.

I'm an extract brewer, I have huge time\space limitations maybe in a few years.
All 20 of my batches have used a (the same one) plastic bucket for fermentation. Never had a spoiled batch. Which I credit to a very early switch to Star-San. That stuff's awesome.


On-tap (well, bottles): American Pale
In secondary: Hard cider
Waiting to brew this sunday (hopefully): Belgian Ale (will be fermenting in a 6.5 gallon glass carboy for this one)


...might treat myself to a kegging setup for christmas...
I'm pretty sick of bottling now.

kegging is probably the best equipment upgrade that a brewer can do. Instead of spending 2+hours bottling, you'll spend 20 minutes. Plus its just cool to take a keg with you when you go to a party.

 

[Indolent]

Originally posted by: TifababyIn the long run glass is better. Although you can also get a "better bottle" which is a plastic carboy, but eventually will scratch and need to be replaced.

Do you have any experience with Better Bottles? From what I've read, they're different than the average water bottle you'd find at walmart. And, unless you're scrubbing it with a hard brush, I don't see how it will "eventually scratch."

I'm going to start brewing soon (when I move into my new place in a couple weeks) and trying to figure out which to go with, glass carboys or Better Bottles. I've been leaning toward better bottles since they're lighter and there's no chance of glass breakage. Anyone else have an opinion on them?

 

[HomeBrewerDude]

Originally posted by: Indolent

Originally posted by: TifababyIn the long run glass is better. Although you can also get a "better bottle" which is a plastic carboy, but eventually will scratch and need to be replaced.

Do you have any experience with Better Bottles? From what I've read, they're different than the average water bottle you'd find at walmart. And, unless you're scrubbing it with a hard brush, I don't see how it will "eventually scratch."

I'm going to start brewing soon (when I move into my new place in a couple weeks) and trying to figure out which to go with, glass carboys or Better Bottles. I've been leaning toward better bottles since they're lighter and there's no chance of glass breakage. Anyone else have an opinion on them?

Better bottles are different than the ones you see at the store for bottled water. I believe the BB are designed to be impermeable to O2. I've never used the Better Bottles, but really, you only need one at first so it doesn't really matter. I'd recommend Glass simply because its proven. A little handle gizmo is really worth the 5 bucks... I've heard a couple of bad stories about people dropping and almost cutting off appendages. I've never had a mishap with glass, but my neighbor had the bottom bust out (I think he set it down too hard at some point).

 

[djheater]

Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude

Originally posted by: djheater
I'm dismayed by some of hte nastiness in this thread. Brewers are supposed to be the most laid back and welcoming of hobbyists, all of you talking crap stop messing up our reputation.

I'm an extract brewer, I have huge time\space limitations maybe in a few years.
All 20 of my batches have used a (the same one) plastic bucket for fermentation. Never had a spoiled batch. Which I credit to a very early switch to Star-San. That stuff's awesome.


On-tap (well, bottles): American Pale
In secondary: Hard cider
Waiting to brew this sunday (hopefully): Belgian Ale (will be fermenting in a 6.5 gallon glass carboy for this one)


...might treat myself to a kegging setup for christmas...
I'm pretty sick of bottling now.

kegging is probably the best equipment upgrade that a brewer can do. Instead of spending 2+hours bottling, you'll spend 20 minutes. Plus its just cool to take a keg with you when you go to a party.

How much do you get charged to refill the co2 and how often does that need to be done?

 

[Tifababy]

I just filled up a co2 tank. It was $15 for a 5lb tank. That tank lasted me 3 years dispensing commercial kegs. It will last significantly less for homebrew because you'll be using the co2 to carbonate the beer as well as dispensing it. I believe that a 5lb co2 tank typically lasts for about 10 corny kegs. If you use sugar to prime and carbonate your kegs, it will last longer.

I am one of the few people that never bottled, I went straight to kegging and it's so simple, I love it. Although, it's not as easy to take my homebrew with me. But that means more beer for me

 

[djheater]

Originally posted by: Tifababy
I just filled up a co2 tank. It was $15 for a 5lb tank. That tank lasted me 3 years dispensing commercial kegs. It will last significantly less for homebrew because you'll be using the co2 to carbonate the beer as well as dispensing it. I believe that a 5lb co2 tank typically lasts for about 10 corny kegs. If you use sugar to prime and carbonate your kegs, it will last longer.

I am one of the few people that never bottled, I went straight to kegging and it's so simple, I love it. Although, it's not as easy to take my homebrew with me. But that means more beer for me

5 Gallon Used Keg System. Same as our 5 Gallon Keg System, but with a used 5 gallon keg instead of a new 5 gallon keg. Used kegs are guaranteed to hold pressure but require cleaning before use; some may also require replacement parts.

#78555 Five Gallon Keg System USED KEG $114.99


Northerbrewer.com has the system above..... man my 'buy finger' is itchy...

Just gotta come up with a good excuse for the wifey...