• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Any AT'ers with the XP 1700+/1800+ T-Bred B's yet?

Page 12 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Originally posted by: ArmchairAthlete
I got one from Googlegear a while back (1700+), but it has "A" stepping. Just what disadvantage does this put me in? Can I still do a wire trick or connect bridges in order to change the multiplier? Do B's still have to do that? (A7N8X deluxe mobo btw)

It's running 166Mhz x 11 multiplier pretty stable with about 47 deg celcius with Prime95 torture test. 1.7v.
Click to expand...

i dunno about the wire trick but you do have to do the bridge thing in order to get mult higher than 12.5x i believe... yeah, i can't get anything higher than 12.5 on my 8RDA+.... i think that's how the 1700+ are...

see if you can hit 2.0 ghz with that thing 🙂
 
it is a AXADA1700DUT3C

JIUCB 0250MPMW Bcore

I'm gladly going to try this to at least 1900 stable..as of now i am at xp2200 speeds with it at 1799 mhz.

You have any suggestions on what i need to do to reach 1990mhz???

 
NewEgg must give those FedEx guys spiked coffee. Went from Cali to Newark NJ in just over 24 hours! Order to door in 2 days!

Got a week2 JIUHB like most. I also broke down and got the HyperX Kingston PC3500, as I suspect my Crucial mem ain't cuttin' it.

Anyway, Anyone with experience or anecdotes regarding old AMD 761 based boards. In particular ABIT KG7 (non raid). My only experience was with my old 1.4 Tbird, and the abit wasn't as good as my 8k7a which wasn't great (ala crucial) to begin with...

PS - All you 8rda+ peeps. Are you getting your OC results without those crazy voltage and North/South bridge mods, or are all those mods assumed? I'm thinking of the 8rda+ if my KG7 bites it - Just hope the wife doen't get to the credit card statement before me🙁

Thanks for all the advice in this thread!
 
Originally posted by: OatMan
NewEgg must give those FedEx guys spiked coffee. Went from Cali to Newark NJ in just over 24 hours! Order to door in 2 days!

Got a week2 JIUHB like most. I also broke down and got the HyperX Kingston PC3500, as I suspect my Crucial mem ain't cuttin' it.

Anyway, Anyone with experience or anecdotes regarding old AMD 761 based boards. In particular ABIT KG7 (non raid). My only experience was with my old 1.4 Tbird, and the abit wasn't as good as my 8k7a which wasn't great (ala crucial) to begin with...

PS - All you 8rda+ peeps. Are you getting your OC results without those crazy voltage and North/South bridge mods, or are all those mods assumed? I'm thinking of the 8rda+ if my KG7 bites it - Just hope the wife doen't get to the credit card statement before me🙁

Thanks for all the advice in this thread!
Click to expand...

yeah, we're not doing mod's and getting well... i can do 2.2 ghz with my 1700+ but prime fails so i don't considerate stable... i've done no mods to my NB or SB... i was going to remove my NB though and add some arctic silver 3 but that was it.... it's humming along right now at 47C at full load...

i have a 0302 JIUHB as well... and i'm running rock stable @ 2.17 ghz @ 1.775V

good luck!
 
Originally posted by: amdwolfman
it is a AXADA1700DUT3C

JIUCB 0250MPMW Bcore

I'm gladly going to try this to at least 1900 stable..as of now i am at xp2200 speeds with it at 1799 mhz.

You have any suggestions on what i need to do to reach 1990mhz???
Click to expand...

post your setup... then maybe someone could help you out 🙂
 
Originally posted by: amdwolfman
Is there some software i could run to see what all i have for a system?

I'm up to fsb-157

multiplier - 12

1884MHZ

1.800V
Click to expand...

lol... i just meant... what mobo, hsf, ram... psu... stuff like that...
 
My Heatsink is from My T-bird retail 1.333

Ram is 256 micron sdram

Mobo is MSI K7t Turbo2

Video card is a Geforce 2/Ti

330watt generic psu.

I ran a 3dmark2001se.. default video card settings,,it gave me 4857.

FSB was 157, multiplier was 12, and my v-core was 1.800.
 
Originally posted by: amdwolfman
My Heatsink is from My T-bird retail 1.333

Ram is 256 micron sdram

Mobo is MSI K7t Turbo2

Video card is a Geforce 2/Ti

330watt generic psu.

I ran a 3dmark2001se.. default video card settings,,it gave me 4857.

FSB was 157, multiplier was 12, and my v-core was 1.800.
Click to expand...

i see...

well... unless you have better ram, i don't think you'll be able to push that baby any farther... because you need higher multipliers but with the 1700+, the thing is locked so you can't access mult higher than 12.5 i believe unless you mod your chip...

330watt.. read the PSu and tell me what the combined wattage is for the 3.3V and 5V rails combined... for a nice o/c you want a combined wattage over 220W or so.... it'll help stabilize your o/c...

just PM me if you have more questions... after 2 weeks, this stuff is getting to become second nature to me... 🙂 right jen, chiz, michael (d'oh, these are all guys from the 2100+ thread).... 🙂 🙂 🙂
 
330watt.. read the PSu and tell me what the combined wattage is for the 3.3V and 5V rails combined

I have a correction here,It's 300 watts

300 watts at 3.3 volts i guess gives me 15A

300 watts at 5vsb is 1a


Now what the hell does this all mean,,,and do u understand what i posted here..

And what is The MOD TO THE CHIP thing your talkinmg about,,,my multiplier rite now got 15 .
 
Originally posted by: amdwolfman
330watt.. read the PSu and tell me what the combined wattage is for the 3.3V and 5V rails combined

I have a correction here,It's 300 watts

300 watts at 3.3 volts i guess gives me 15A

300 watts at 5vsb is 1a


Now what the hell does this all mean,,,and do u understand what i posted here..

And what is The MOD TO THE CHIP thing your talkinmg about,,,my multiplier rite now got 15 .
Click to expand...

you have a 1700+ right? wow, i dunno how you got the 15x mult.... most people i've talked to have their 1700+ at mult no higher than 12.5 or 13....

search under cpu o/c... for L3, L5, or bridges... i think there's apost somewhere that talks about it..

not the 5vsb but the +5V rail...

 
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but here ya go:

link to OverClocked Inside

As for your PSU specs, you should be more concerned about the amount of current supplied to +5v and +3.3v rails. The higher the current on those rails, the better.
I bought a 500w PSU with the following specs:

+3.3V (30A)
+5V (50A)
+12V (25A)
-5V (0.5A)
-12V (0.8A)
+5VSB (2.0A)

It powers my system quite well 🙂
 
Originally posted by: adelacru
I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but here ya go:

link to OverClocked Inside

As for your PSU specs, you should be more concerned about the amount of current supplied to +5v and +3.3v rails. The higher the current on those rails, the better.
I bought a 500w PSU with the following specs:

+3.3V (30A)
+5V (50A)
+12V (25A)
-5V (0.5A)
-12V (0.8A)
+5VSB (2.0A)

It powers my system quite well 🙂
Click to expand...

The thing is... it doesn't matter what the max is.... what matters is if it can sustain that amount at full load and with what variation... most psu's (generic or crappy) have a fluctuation of more than 5%... the better ones i.e. sparkle/fortron have a fluctuation of about 1%...

The 350W fortron has enough (220W on the 3.3V and 5V rail combined) to power most every AMD system out there... anything more than 350 is overkill in my opinion....

waht sort of brand is your 500W?


Check this thread out about PSU
 
The 500w PSU I have came from this thread.

It's an Achieve PSU weighing in around 4-5 lbs with dual fans. It doesn't have as many connectors as my Enermax 350w, but there are enough for my case (and I have a dvd-rom, cdrw, hdd). As for the fluctuation variance.. that thread and the site I got it from did not list them.
 
I ordered a 1700+ tbred on Friday so We'll see what I get also ordered an slk 800 see if they are overhyped or not also some nmb fans if they aren't good enough I'll fork over more for the panaflos anyways I"ll update you on all of this and what I can get mine too if I can't reach what you all are reaching I'll give this to my pal and get an epox. anyways....

wtf is punctuation?
 
Originally posted by: Iovah
I ordered a 1700+ tbred on Friday so We'll see what I get also ordered an slk 800 see if they are overhyped or not also some nmb fans if they aren't good enough I'll fork over more for the panaflos anyways I"ll update you on all of this and what I can get mine too if I can't reach what you all are reaching I'll give this to my pal and get an epox. anyways....

wtf is punctuation?
Click to expand...

LOL...

my 2100+ is coming tomorrow 🙂

i'll tell you how it goes...
 
Originally posted by: Instigator
Update, I have closed the 5th L3 bridge with the defogger kit and I still can not get past the 12.5x multiplier. :disgust: Has anybody been able to get past the 12.5x multiplier?
Click to expand...

My mobo doesn't have the ability to set multipliers. To get multpliers above 12.5, you have to have the 5th L3 bridge open, not closed. To get 15X, I opened the 4th and 5th.

On older motherboards which did have multiplier control (really an override), the CPU pin which would have controlled the 5th bridge may be tied low on the mobo. (Older Athlons did not have a 5th bridge.) If so, you have to also cut the 5th L1 bridge, which will untie the CPU pin to the multiplier bridges. Then the 5th L3 bridge can do its thing.

To get multipliers 12.5 and below, the 5th L3 bridge would have to be closed.
 
oh yeah I forgot to tell you guys that with my amd A7V-266E/AA I was running 160FSB with stock cooler with my 1700+ Abred stock voltage a little bit of thermal paste which I realized I had to much on too also I left the pink sticky crap on hahaha the north bridge fan has no thermal paste that's the way asus ships it and no case fans other then the ps and I ran with standard micron pc 2100 at the most aggressive timings the board offers and I could take higher yet I could do 166 but it wouldn't take the torture test for 24 hours and the voltage was at like 1.7 basicly .2 above whatever the Abred's voltage is anyways it still benchmarked lower then what I can get with a KT3 Ultra mobo on 3dmark but I was running at almost 2200+ speeds stable with my Abred with stock fan and stock multiplier the system ran hot but what do you expect so I would say that those boards are solid boards just to let ya know and they are dirt cheap too I wonder if the A7V266-C performs the same anyways I was board about a month ago and felt like screwing around and that was the results I hope you had fun with no punctuation. I will now punctuate all of my thread replys I'm sorry for this inconvience but you will finally be able to read my threads more lazily and not make your eyes get exercise. My deepest apologies Iovah.
 
argh,

i had a lot of issues with the 2100+...

i am going to mess around with it more thursday...

it doesn't like my board or something.... it gets REALLY hot REALLY fast... 43C at default voltage 0% load 🙁

this 1700+ is currently running 43C at full load!!!

argh... maybe it's my heatsink... or maybe it's just the chip... who knows?

i'll play more later 🙂
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top