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Any adhesives that would patch a basketball goal base?

S

SAWYER

Lifer
I have a goal that has a base that holds water, it has recently received a crack on the side. Is there any thing I could patch this with?
 
I'd guess silicone, but it might need to be an inside repair.

I'd look into filling it with sand instead of water.
 
are those things usually HDPE? a hot air gun or torch and a few strips of hdpe can patch it

but yeah, ^ i'd just use some duct tape & fill it with sand
 
Patch it from the inside. A good patch material is concrete. 😉 Mix up a couple of bags of concrete, just runny enough that you can pour it in through some sort of makeshift funnel.
 
I used 2 screw in ground anchors (might have been for pets) and a strap with 2 hooks but our goal is right beside the drive, not on it.
 
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sdifox said:
tar damping sheet? Can always take a torch to it.

And it's not a goal...
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gorcorps said:
flexseal

Also... basketball goal? I've never heard anyone ever call it anything other than a hoop
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The company that makes it calls it a goal
oQgq34j.jpg
 
Two part epoxy. Get it at Ace Hardware or somewhere similar. There may be some "marine" grade type. Might be better since this will be exposed to UV and weather.
 
DrPizza said:
Patch it from the inside. A good patch material is concrete. 😉 Mix up a couple of bags of concrete, just runny enough that you can pour it in through some sort of makeshift funnel.
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This is the correct answer -- just fill with concrete.
 
Subyman said:
Two part epoxy. Get it at Ace Hardware or somewhere similar. There may be some "marine" grade type. Might be better since this will be exposed to UV and weather.
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That's what I'd suggest. Marine epoxy is has some flexibility, extremely strong, and what I've used in hot tubs. Never heard of Capt Caveman's suggestion, but while that's much more expensive, it looks legit too. Doesn't say how much you get though.
 
gorcorps said:
flexseal

Also... basketball goal? I've never heard anyone ever call it anything other than a hoop
Click to expand...

It's a goal in Kansas and since well, I live in Lawrence and Dr. James Naismith came up with the rules and they are housed in KU, goal is the appropriate term.
 
Well do they call them "field goals" in basketball, and it technically is a "goal", just nobody really calls it that.
 
11thHour said:
That's what I'd suggest. Marine epoxy is has some flexibility, extremely strong, and what I've used in hot tubs. Never heard of Capt Caveman's suggestion, but while that's much more expensive, it looks legit too. Doesn't say how much you get though.
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You get two big tubes(8.4 oz) that have lasted for years for me and I've only used a very little.

Here's a great demo video - http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-torture-demo/
 
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Besides, if you're anywhere that it gets cold (below freezing) in the winter, then you have to drain the water out, and store it where it's not going to tip over due to the loss of weight. The concrete is permanent, you don't have to worry about freezing, and an 80 pound bag of concrete (90-100 pounds when hydrated) is cheaper than the epoxy. Heck, just put the concrete mix in without adding water, then pour the appropriate amount of water in, slosh it back and forth a bit, and forget about it.
 
DrPizza said:
Patch it from the inside. A good patch material is concrete. 😉 Mix up a couple of bags of concrete, just runny enough that you can pour it in through some sort of makeshift funnel.
Click to expand...

Don't use concrete. The whole point of water is that you can empty it and then move it easily, you lose that if you fill it with concrete.

Another vote for some sort of internal patch like JB Weld and failing that, go with sand.
 
DrPizza said:
Besides, if you're anywhere that it gets cold (below freezing) in the winter, then you have to drain the water out, and store it where it's not going to tip over due to the loss of weight. The concrete is permanent, you don't have to worry about freezing, and an 80 pound bag of concrete (90-100 pounds when hydrated) is cheaper than the epoxy. Heck, just put the concrete mix in without adding water, then pour the appropriate amount of water in, slosh it back and forth a bit, and forget about it.
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I might be guilty of the above. "Good enough" is good enough.

AND I did it for the exact reason DrPizza described -- when winter came, it didn't matter.
 
GagHalfrunt said:
Don't use concrete. The whole point of water is that you can empty it and then move it easily, you lose that if you fill it with concrete.

Another vote for some sort of internal patch like JB Weld and failing that, go with sand.
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Wrong.

A) they have wheels
B) have you every tried to move one of these things with 80lbs of water sloshing around on the inside? 80lbs of concrete is MUCH more stable and less of a headache.
 
Homerboy said:
Wrong.

A) they have wheels
B) have you every tried to move one of these things with 80lbs of water sloshing around on the inside? 80lbs of concrete is MUCH more stable and less of a headache.
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Wrong.

See the part about emptying out the water. If you're dumb enough to move it with the water inside that's user error, not a design flaw. Work smarter.
 
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