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Another Electricity Question...

I

imported_Pablo

Diamond Member
The company I work for has just bought a 24' enclosed trailer for use as a mobile workshop.

The trailer needs to be wired for 120v electricity. They were considering buying a generator to mount on the tongue, but since everywhere they go will have power easily accessable, they decided they could merely "plug-in" to the customer's power supply.

The trailer needs interior lights (preferably flourescent) and needs to be able supply power tools (portabands, etc.) as well. There will also probably be a hydraulic pump that will power some equipment onboard.

Question 1: What will I need to be able to connect this trailer to a powersupply on site? I assume an extension cord wouldn't be the best option 😉

Question 2: How should I wire this system? Not looking for anything too specific... but if you're good at that kind of thing that would be great

Question 3: Is flourescent lighting the best choice? I want it for the brightness, but I know they draw alot of power when first turned on....


Thanks in advance guys! I'm sure somebody knows enough to give me some suggestions... there's an expert in any field imaginable on AT 🙂
 
You are going to need a A/C load center capable of at least 60 amps, these can be found at RV centers as complete kits, these load centers connect via a three prong twist lock cables.
These load centers have a breaker box much like a residential box does so it is relatively easy to wire to.

Fluorescents are just fine for your application as long as the temps do not drop below 40 F.
 
Roger, Roger

You said these RV connections would have a three-prong twist-lock connector... does this require a special receptical? We need something that will plug into a normal outlet preferably, as we visit different customers each week...

You said temps should not go below 40 F for flourescents? Should temps never go below 40 F because of damage to the bulbs or will they merely not operate below 40 F.... i ask because the trailer will be stored outside when not in use....

Thanks for you help!
 
The twist lock connector is required by code when the loads are greater than 25 amps/the load center is mobile.
These twist lock connectors are found on boats/Rv's and large generator sets.
These twist lock connectors can only be hooked up to a matching female connector, if you plan on hooking up the electricity to a temporary source that does not have the required female connection, then you are going to have to go the generator route, you can supply the trailer with several extension cords but you will be in code violation and it could possibly cause an overload on the circuits which could cause a hazardous situation.

They do sell an adapter that changes the plug from a three prong twist lock to a standard three prong grounded plug but I feel these are not safe because you could easily overload the extension cord.

If you had one of these three prong twist lock cords in your hand, you would understand, they are two to three times the diameter of a standard extension cord, I do not know the exact wire gauge off hand.

Flourescents do not like cold temps, they tend to flicker and when cold enough, they will not light at all.
 
Way cheaper just to purchase a generator, voltage convertors (transformers) are very expensive.
 
If the vehicle is going to be used on a daily basis and want you reliability, purchase a generator with pressurized lubrication, low oil shutdown, extended run capabilities, brushless generator, square sine wave outputs and reduced R.P.M under light load conditions.
 
get a honda generator.. they're very quiet. you'd appreciate that since it'd just be sitting on the tongue.
 
Originally posted by: PabloMartinez
What type of generator should i look for? Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

A small Diesel if you want reliability.

Even though Honda and Generac engines are reliable, they just won't cut it for long term or industrial service.
 
Originally posted by: Roger
If the vehicle is going to be used on a daily basis and want you reliability, purchase a generator with pressurized lubrication, low oil shutdown, extended run capabilities, brushless generator, square sine wave outputs and reduced R.P.M under light load conditions.
Click to expand...
listen to this man, he knows what he's talking about.

I suppose if you got a decent gas powered generator, it could last for a while.....

You definately want full pressure lubrication and a spin on oil filter.
 
If doing residential work
You can use 6/3 cable and a "Range Plug"
The kind thats used with an electric range
You could "steal" the range circuit in a house to get your power
I would also carry a pigtail (female range plug on one end, Bare wires on the other) and an extra circuit breaker To tie into a customers panel

For proffesional use go with the "twist lock connector"
Hubble makes them
They come in 30a and 60a versions

You will also need a 60 amp distribution panel to power the 110v circuits
You need breakers in the trailer (as per code)

You also need to try to "balance" the power so that the load on the two phases is as equal as possible

I would find a small electrical company to wire the trailer for you
That way the "Code" issues should be addressed


Dont forget to mount outside lights and outside GFI recepticals
They can be a lifesaver

P.S. I run Television Trucks for a living

 
How does one get a job wiring trailers without knowing the first thing about wiring trailers?
Click to expand...

Go to school and take a course on Electrical engineering or Electrical Contracting.
 
Originally posted by: Roger
How does one get a job wiring trailers without knowing the first thing about wiring trailers?
Click to expand...

Go to school and take a course on Electrical engineering or Electrical Contracting.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that actually teach me something, though? I want to be able to get a job like Pablo's, where I don't even know how much power florescent light ses, yet they put me in change of building thier trailer.
 
i was hoping you'd say northern.... 🙂

What wattage should i be looking for if i'm running lights (maybe ac) constantly and power tools occaisionally?
 
You have to add up all the loads in the trailer, then add an additional 15% on top of that as a buffer.
 
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: Roger
How does one get a job wiring trailers without knowing the first thing about wiring trailers?
Click to expand...

Go to school and take a course on Electrical engineering or Electrical Contracting.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that actually teach me something, though? I want to be able to get a job like Pablo's, where I don't even know how much power florescent light ses, yet they put me in change of building thier trailer.
Click to expand...

Now i see how your post-count is so high.... 🙂

I am just trying to figure out roughly what its going to take to get this done...

 
Originally posted by: PabloMartinez
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: Roger
How does one get a job wiring trailers without knowing the first thing about wiring trailers?
Click to expand...

Go to school and take a course on Electrical engineering or Electrical Contracting.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that actually teach me something, though? I want to be able to get a job like Pablo's, where I don't even know how much power florescent light ses, yet they put me in change of building thier trailer.
Click to expand...

Now i see how your post-count is so high.... 🙂

I am just trying to figure out roughly what its going to take to get this done...
Click to expand...

Get an estimate from an electrician.....
My guess
$1500.00
 
Originally posted by: PabloMartinez
i was hoping you'd say northern.... 🙂

What wattage should i be looking for if i'm running lights (maybe ac) constantly and power tools occaisionally?
Click to expand...

Yeah, you have to add the wattage of everything you will be running, and then get something bigger. Can't really be too generous, you don't want to be running at near full capacity.
 
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