Amp to Power Pair of Subs

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: sdifox

I am talking about venting to the outside 🙂... say they mount the driver in the rear seat windows :laugh: plexiglass enclosure with a clothback to stop the rain and there you go, dual 18" IB sub... That should stop the heart even with a modest amp.

You'd still have the driver issues to deal with. Even that the interior of the car becomes the effective volume and what's behind is also going to have an effect. Unless you literally mount the driver face down in the middle of the roof! :laugh:

Also the sound will be very loud outside of the car. Of course with the current trend of the junkies that seems desirable. :|

In any scenario one still winds up with basically sitting inside the bass bin effect. I've done this before with large scoop subs and the SPL is incredibly loud but not very musical at all. Plus the air made my hair stand completely out like I was sitting on a megavolt Van DeGraff! :laugh: My ponytail was no match for that. :Q

I am talking about venting to the outside with the polar opposite sound wave, so yeah, exactly like mounting the driver on the roof facing in. And yes the outside will get as much spl albeit diluted by vastly greater volume. But being obnoxious is the point of the entire exercise no?


PS if that is not loud enough, they can horn load it 🙂


I wish I know how to draw, the illustration in my head is precious. Think Civic SI with 2 caracoal mounted on each side of the rear passenger windows :laugh:

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: sdifox

I am talking about venting to the outside with the polar opposite sound wave, so yeah, exactly like mounting the driver on the roof facing in. And yes the outside will get as much spl albeit diluted by vastly greater volume. But being obnoxious is the point of the entire exercise no?

Everyone is doing it though.

Someone needs to go to these kids place, deflate their rear tires and use a chuck attached to a garden hose to fill them back up. About half filled with water is good and inflate the rest with air. Give them a nice surprise at highway speed! :laugh:

 

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: sdifox

I am talking about venting to the outside with the polar opposite sound wave, so yeah, exactly like mounting the driver on the roof facing in. And yes the outside will get as much spl albeit diluted by vastly greater volume. But being obnoxious is the point of the entire exercise no?

Everyone is doing it though.

Someone needs to go to these kids place, deflate their rear tires and use a chuck attached to a garden hose to fill them back up. About half filled with water is good and inflate the rest with air. Give them a nice surprise at highway speed! :laugh:

or a can of those quick tire sealants and let it sit 🙂

I am thinking about building a horn loaded system when we renovate the house. My wife gets a sun room, I get a dual horn loaded sub a la royal devices 🙂

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Way more information is needed here. Thiele-Small parameters of the drivers and Xmax/Xmech spec as well as the enclosure they're going in and desired tuning frequency if not sealed.

Class D is fine for a bass amp as long as a suitable match to the driver is made. If the enclosure impedance near the tuning frequency spikes to 25 ohms you're still going to be voltage clipping, etc.

I'd avoid class D's...some make for a noisy system.

 

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Way more information is needed here. Thiele-Small parameters of the drivers and Xmax/Xmech spec as well as the enclosure they're going in and desired tuning frequency if not sealed.

Class D is fine for a bass amp as long as a suitable match to the driver is made. If the enclosure impedance near the tuning frequency spikes to 25 ohms you're still going to be voltage clipping, etc.

I'd avoid class D's...some make for a noisy system.

Noisy meaning? The new Class Ds are very nice.

 

[Modelworks]

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Way more information is needed here. Thiele-Small parameters of the drivers and Xmax/Xmech spec as well as the enclosure they're going in and desired tuning frequency if not sealed.

Class D is fine for a bass amp as long as a suitable match to the driver is made. If the enclosure impedance near the tuning frequency spikes to 25 ohms you're still going to be voltage clipping, etc.

I'd avoid class D's...some make for a noisy system.

Noisy meaning? The new Class Ds are very nice.

Class D can be noisy if not done properly , of course that doesn't mean all Class D are noisy.


I guess he prefers Class A amps and a Mr. Fusion in the trunk to power it 🙂

 

[jtvang125]

I seriously doubt that amp is going to put out anything near its ratings. Hifonics use to be good back in the days but with so many car audio companies going under or getting bought by other companies the quality of a lot of them has gone down considerably.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Modelworks

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Way more information is needed here. Thiele-Small parameters of the drivers and Xmax/Xmech spec as well as the enclosure they're going in and desired tuning frequency if not sealed.

Class D is fine for a bass amp as long as a suitable match to the driver is made. If the enclosure impedance near the tuning frequency spikes to 25 ohms you're still going to be voltage clipping, etc.

I'd avoid class D's...some make for a noisy system.

Noisy meaning? The new Class Ds are very nice.

Class D can be noisy if not done properly , of course that doesn't mean all Class D are noisy.


I guess he prefers Class A amps and a Mr. Fusion in the trunk to power it 🙂

I am running 800W A/B...CL62's and a pair of ID10's. Draw is probably a bit high...

I am running 1/0 to a block in the back since I will be moving my battery to the rear one day.

 

[Modelworks]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Modelworks

Originally posted by: sdifox

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Way more information is needed here. Thiele-Small parameters of the drivers and Xmax/Xmech spec as well as the enclosure they're going in and desired tuning frequency if not sealed.

Class D is fine for a bass amp as long as a suitable match to the driver is made. If the enclosure impedance near the tuning frequency spikes to 25 ohms you're still going to be voltage clipping, etc.

I'd avoid class D's...some make for a noisy system.

Noisy meaning? The new Class Ds are very nice.

Class D can be noisy if not done properly , of course that doesn't mean all Class D are noisy.


I guess he prefers Class A amps and a Mr. Fusion in the trunk to power it 🙂

I am running 800W A/B...CL62's and a pair of ID10's. Draw is probably a bit high...

I am running 1/0 to a block in the back since I will be moving my battery to the rear one day.

Class A/B isn't nearly as bad as class A for power usage. Class A would draw about 400W power even when the volume is zero. They do sound great though. I have a set of class A amplified speakers that are 20 watts total output, but they draw 80 watts to use 🙂

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: sdifx
I am thinking about building a horbln loaded system when we renovate the house. My wife gets a sun room, I get a dual horn loaded sub a la royal devices 🙂

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

A dedicated sound room is THE way to go. This way you can realize wide dynamic range without killing your hearing and blurring the reproduction of the original performance.

Originally posted by: jtvang125
I seriously doubt that amp is going to put out anything near its ratings. Hifonics use to be good back in the days but with so many car audio companies going under or getting bought by other companies the quality of a lot of them has gone down considerably.

This is very possible. The ones I heard back in 1990-91 were very good though. Power From The Gods. :laugh:

 

[Safeway]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: sdifx
I am thinking about building a horbln loaded system when we renovate the house. My wife gets a sun room, I get a dual horn loaded sub a la royal devices 🙂

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

A dedicated sound room is THE way to go. This way you can realize wide dynamic range without killing your hearing and blurring the reproduction of the original performance.

Originally posted by: jtvang125
I seriously doubt that amp is going to put out anything near its ratings. Hifonics use to be good back in the days but with so many car audio companies going under or getting bought by other companies the quality of a lot of them has gone down considerably.

This is very possible. The ones I heard back in 1990-91 were very good though. Power From The Gods. :laugh:

Old Rockford Fostage Power-Series amps were bad ass. I used a couple of Zapco in my first install, but I have also used the old RF Power amps, JL, and Alpine.

 

[QueBert]

Memphis Class T amps are worth looking into, very small, very efficient and put out good power.

 

[harobikes333]

Hmm well I'm just looking into trying that amp I linked to? It's about 300 bucks , if it does what it's suppose to then I'm golden.



OH and that dedicated sound room that guy made was amazing!!!!

 

[sdifox]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: sdifx
I am thinking about building a horbln loaded system when we renovate the house. My wife gets a sun room, I get a dual horn loaded sub a la royal devices 🙂

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

A dedicated sound room is THE way to go. This way you can realize wide dynamic range without killing your hearing and blurring the reproduction of the original performance.

I appropriated a 300sq ft bedroom currently serving as my ht :laugh:. Will eventually move it to the basement and take up about 1000 sq ft. This will not include the space the stereo sub will take up :evil:

 

[Modelworks]

You could always build one of these:
http://hackaday.com/2009/07/26/doorway-subwoofer/

 

[harobikes333]

Amp should be here on friday. Will post pics and try and review it so to speak if anyone is curious. It was a pain to try and find one, MANY websites said they had it in stock but when you called up to make sure they actually didn't.