Always been curious about this: I've never bothered to downshift and why should I start?

[TheAudit]

If I am coming up to a light or a stopsign I usually put it in neutral and brake, almost never downshift when coming to a stop. If I am just slowing down then I'll put it in a lower gear if I need to when it's time to get on the gas.

 

[dxkj]

Drive in a lot of snow, and then you will know the reason to downshift.....


I look at people who dont downshift as noobs who dont know what they are doing.

 

[LAUST]

Originally posted by: LOLyourFace

Originally posted by: Murphyrulez
The less you hit your brakes, the longer they will last, meaning more $$ in your pocket.

So far to my knowledge:

The more you downshift, the sooner you have to change the clutch

and clutch is far more expensive than brake discs.

Correct, disk brake pads are basically hand outs they are so cheap in comparison, not only that but it only takes 30 minutes to do. changing out a clutch is mucho $$$ and I doubt many here are equipped to drop a tranny, mentally or have the hardware.

 

[Electric Amish]

...eventual task of putting into neutral...

I rarely put my car in neutral.

 

[shenaniganz]

i down shift all the time. its not good for your clutch to ride it. plus its better for traction on icy roads.
i followed some guy down a slow mountain pass one time who did not down shift. you could smell his brakes the whole way down as he was riding them and his brake light was on the whole time. i'm sure he had to replace his brakes soon after.

 

[ChinamanatNCSU]

Originally posted by: TheAudit
If I am coming up to a light or a stopsign I usually put it in neutral and brake, almost never downshift when coming to a stop. If I am just slowing down then I'll put it in a lower gear if I need to when it's time to get on the gas.

That's what I do too. In reply to a previous post about downshifting into each gear, I don't see why that would be necessary. I usually just coast in 5th, braking normally, and when i drop below the usable rpms I shift to neutral and brake to a stop. Is my method bad? I tried the downshifting into each gear before, and the constant lurching just got annoying (since I apparently suck at it 😉 )

 

[Bullhonkie]

Originally posted by: rnp614

Originally posted by: AgaBooga

So on my turns would it be better to downshift to third? My dad has me slow down enough to get into second when I take turns.

How fast are you going when you turn? 3rd is pretty damn high, i dunno if you can maintain proper rpms without turning so hard you peel out

Highly depends on your car's gearing and the engine's powerband. I often downshift to 3rd to take 15-25mph turns and I have plenty of usable power on the way out of the turn. I only use 2nd for turns if it's gonna be a slower turn (< 15mph), or I feel the need to slingshot myself out of the turn (AWD corner exits are fun with LSDs front and rear 😉).

 

[DougK62]

Originally posted by: amdskip
It does too hurt an engine sitting idling. Its hard on the crank mainly and thats not exactly a cheap repair.

Give some supporting evidence.

Idling an engine doesn't hurt it at all. Like someone else said, there is a reason that cops and taxis idle so much. Idling is easy on an engine - constantly starting the engine is bad for it.

 

[Don Vito Corleone]

Going down a long, steep hill using only brakes to slow you is dumb and dangerous, even with an automatic. Your brakes can and will fade, your brake fluid will boil, and your brake grease can literally start on fire. You should always use engine braking while descending for any extended period.

 

[Jzero]

I downshift because I can.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: amdskip
It does too hurt an engine sitting idling. Its hard on the crank mainly and thats not exactly a cheap repair.

In what way is it hard on the crank? Answer: No way.

Idling is the least stress the engine could ever have on it. The only other option is to either be revving up or down, with or without a load, and any of these duties are much more strain on the engine than simply idling.

Note: we're talking about stock, production vehicles here, not race engines, which could potentially flood or generally not appreciate lots of idling...... but that's because they either have very primitive idle circuits (e.g., alcohol-injected drag cars) or they just plain aren't tuned right.

But on a stock vehicle, sorry amdskip, you're just simply wrong or are being told wrong.......you can let one idle all day long and that's better than actually driving it.....why do you think diesel trucks are left running all the time? Hint: it ain't because it's bad for them. 😉

 

[gsellis]

I am reading this thread in wonder, because there are some misconceptions.

First, "rev matching" is part of what was called double-clutching or double-declutching (side of the pond dependent). It is also referred to in the context of the "Heel-Toe Technique".

Double-clutching is called "double" from the days of no synchronizers. Heel-Toe is a way to brake and downshift at the same time. To double-clutch, you press the clutch in, "blip" the gas to match the engine revs of the next lower gear, and shift to neutral. Then immediately, you clutch in again, blip the gas to the gear speed, and shift into the lower gear, and then clutch out. With synchronizers, you can skip the clutch in/out to neutral.

First gear is a special case. The gear speed and syncros here are sensitive, so you should double to first to save synchro wear.

Now, with a good tranny and a really good feel, you can skip the clutch part entirely and match the speeds with the throttle. This is the technique used when you hear someone race announcer talking about a driver being a left-foot braker. Look ma, no clutch.

Heel-Toe Techinique is right foot braking with either the toes or the heel on the brake and the reverse on the gas while the left foot is on the clutch. The driver is braking hard and declutching at the same time down through the gears. The advantages are that the driven wheels have the engine to help slow the car (marginally compared to the brakes), the engine helps resist lockup of those wheels (body in motion stuff), the driver has the throttle available to correct issues, and the exit gear is ready as soon as it can be applied.

If you downshift and "drag" the engine up when you declutch, you are wearing the clutch plates out. You may be wearing out the clutch plate almost as much as resting your foot on the clutch, but I cannot swear to that. You also are putting more wear on the synchronizers. If you drag the engine up, you are also giving a lurch to your passengers.

If you use the clutch a lot, you are putting more wear on the throw-out bearing, but sitting idle with the clutch in probably does a lot more wearing.

The reason to declutch and be in the right gear at all times is to save your life. Consider that defensive driving is not about stopping, but being aware of a situation and "driving" out of it. If you are going 20 mph in 4th, you will not have the throttle response on most cars to accelerate out of a situation (degrees of freedom baby.) Although this is generally mute with ABS (there are instances where ABS is not your friend), the engine will help control lockup.

The other reasons are just boy racer pleasure 😉 Going into a turn down through 3 gears from 8 grand in an Integra Type-R gives me that peculiar feeling 😉

Oh, since I said it and someone will want to flame it... ABS is not your friend when wet leaves or sand is on a hard surface and you have to stop. Here is where a little lockup is good because that slippery snot can be plowed through to real pavement. Does not happen often, but some folks driveways are downhill. With the wet fall leaves on your drive way, look out house 😱