All Engineers and Fish Enthusiasts!

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
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In another attempt to cure my boredom and ease some fish maintenance duties, plus the fact that I'm jobless, I've decided to create a fish syphoning system. I didn't want to pay the RAPIST charges for products which I can buy for MUCH less, and since I'm currently jobless, anything cheap will do.

Here is a tentative diagram of my idea: Link

If all the engineers with a hobby for fish, please let me know if you can think of any problems with the system. One I can think of off hand is the fact that the water entering the tank will contain chlorine and other water quality chemicals. But, I'll be sure to add the neutralizing additives before or during the water refill.

Edit: Another problem is with the dirty water syphon. Its difficult to get the suction of the syphon working unless there is water in the tube to displace water, causing the suction. I think I can introduce a sort of 3 way value. One comes from the syphon tube, the other goes outside to the plants, and the other is connected to a type of hand pump. I simply pump it and when the water is pulled up, I close that end and then the syphon effect begins.

Or

I can simply use the hand pump at the end of the tube outside and then I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Edit: Another thought that occured to me was the fact that when I close the on/off valve for the water source, will all the joints and connections between fittings be strong enough to withstand the water pressure from the facet? I understand the water pressure to my house is about 44 psi.
 

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
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Originally posted by: dighn
resevoir tank 4 clorinated water?

Actually, I think its alright for fish to briefly come in contact with chlorinated water. That's not an issue as much.
 

pnho

Member
Dec 7, 2000
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u might need a strainer for the outgoing dirty water so it doesn't plug up your tubing and makes it easier to clean...and avoids sucking out ur fish too. furthermore, the end outgoing water needs to be below ur fish tank to get gravity to work on your side. I wouldn't use tap water personally, but they are ur fish. Also to get the water moving you will need to either suck out the water to fill the tubing up....or use a pump/syringe to do that.

Incoming water, might need temperature gauge, unless u plan on letting it equilibrate to room temperature. Also, the incoming tubing might need something to deflect the full flow of the incoming water to avoid moving around the sand/gravel.

just tips :)

 

zixxer

Diamond Member
Jul 6, 2001
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also

you would have to pump out EXACTLY as much that was pumped in.. right?
 

Lizardman

Golden Member
Jul 23, 2001
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If you have gold fish they will be fine with anything you do to them. If you are doing this to some kind of tropical fish or basically not a gold fish be careful.
 

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
10,868
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pnho: great tips! thanks. Yes another concern I had was the temperature of the incoming water. Any ideas of how I can manage that??
 

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
10,868
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Originally posted by: se7enty7
also

you would have to pump out EXACTLY as much that was pumped in.. right?

No, it doesn't matter. I used to get the water down to about 2 inch depth. Then would keep putting in buckets full of water to replace it to the max water line.
 

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
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Another thought that occured to me was the fact that when I close the on/off valve for the water source, will all the joints and connections between fittings be strong enough to withstand the water pressure from the facet? I understand the water pressure to my house is about 44 psi.
 

sharkeeper

Lifer
Jan 13, 2001
10,886
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Actually, I think its alright for fish to briefly come in contact with chlorinated water. That's not an issue as much.

Yes it is! Your fish will be very stressed, Ammonia and Nitrite levels will skyrocket and dissolved O2 levels will always be much lower than equilibrium.

Even if the makeup water is preconditioned, too frequent of water change will induce stress in the water column inhabitants.

How big is the system? If it's less than 1000 liters an automated LSS is not feasible. Stick with partial water changes every 14 days or so depending on biological load.

Cheers!
 

bleeb

Lifer
Feb 3, 2000
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Yeah, I wanted to only do partial water changes and then near complete water changes like once every 3 months or something infrequent. I realize that drastic water changes are somewhat dangerous to fish, but I don't do it often, and I'd like to do more partial water changes but the effort needed prior to this system was too much. Right now the tank is 40 gallons and there are two cichlids in there. The substrate consists of regular gravel and lots of crushed coral to buffer the pH of the water.