Airbrushing a brushed aluminum case

[tailes151]

I'm thinking of getting the side of my new case airbrushed with the new disturbed album art. I've never tried to get anything like this done before and was just wondering if my brushed aluminum case needs to have any prep work done on it, or if it can painted on directly. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?

 

[mpilchfamily]

As long as the case isn't anodized you shouldn't need to do any prep work. If it is then you will need to sand the panel down otherwise the paint will have a hard time sticking.

 

[aigomorla]

actually a lot needs to be done. More then what mpil states, but he's on the right track.

1. You need to use an acid based primer or the paint wont stick to alu. Think of when you were a kid with matchbox toy cars and when you ran them into the wall and they would chip. [oh wait am i the only one in this thread thats old enough to remember these guys?] :X

Same thing is going to happen unless you use an acid based primer.

2. After the primer has been laid, then you can use the airbrush. The primer is a very important step which a lot of people will skip because its also one of the most time consuming.


As long as you have a good primer laid down, the airbrush should last for a very long time.

 

[tailes151]

Awesome, thanks for the help guys. If I get this done I'll definitely post pics.

 

[cyphilis]

Unless your going to be dragging your case around to a lot of LAN parties or something, you dont need to do a lot of prep work. The only time I spend a lot of time prepping or even primering a case, is when its going to take some abuse. Just your normal eye candy sitting on the desk case doesnt require much prep,.. especially aluminum. Most of the time I just clean it good, airbrush, then candy and clear and the paint will hold up fine. The only time you need primer on a case, is when your changing the color or its steel. Painting on bare aluminum gives a cool effect, and is the easiest prep to do...
Here is a side cover done that way with bare aluminum and candy. That technique is called ground metal painting, and very popular right now.

 

[Zepper]

If the temperature is relatively constant where the PC is going to be, then I'd say cyph is correct, but if the temp is going to (on occasion) go below a normal house temp of 65 deg.F or so (or frequently cycles thru a significant range from ambient to whatever your case gets up to), then the coefficient of expansion of Al is such that the paint can peel off in sheets (i've personally seen it happen) if a proper aluminum primering wasn't done. I'd say if one is going to pay good money for high-quality, custom artwork, I personally wouldn't do that w/o a proper primer job. If the artwork needs an aluminum-look base, then that can be applied atop the primer job. At least that's my opinion FWIW...

.bh.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: cyphilis
The only time I spend a lot of time prepping or even primering a case, is when its going to take some abuse. Just your normal eye candy sitting on the desk case doesnt require much prep,.. especially aluminum.

everytime i just left it at sanding, one little nick and the paint would peal off and make me sad. :[

 

[cyphilis]

As long as an automotive clear is used, a knick or scuff usually wont take the paint off. Your right, its all about prep work, and in some instances you need to do a lot of work to get something to look its best.

Ive been doing body work and paint for over 15 years, and have been doing airbrushing as a side business for 3 now. Ive just started in doing computer cases, but most of my experience is ATVs and motorcycles and everyone knows what kind of treatment they get.

Here is a pic of fast job I just finished last night on a Dell case I had laying around. Its plastic, not aluminum. I have another case Im about to start on that is aluminum that Ill be doing some fiberglass work on, and make a one of a kind case.
Here is a pic and here is another.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: cyphilis
As long as an automotive clear is used, a knick or scuff usually wont take the paint off. Your right, its all about prep work, and in some instances you need to do a lot of work to get something to look its best.

Ive been doing body work and paint for over 15 years, and have been doing airbrushing as a side business for 3 now. Ive just started in doing computer cases, but most of my experience is ATVs and motorcycles and everyone knows what kind of treatment they get.

Here is a pic of fast job I just finished last night on a Dell case I had laying around. Its plastic, not aluminum. I have another case Im about to start on that is aluminum that Ill be doing some fiberglass work on, and make a one of a kind case.
Here is a pic and here is another.

hehe... so your saying either either a top coat or acid based primer?

hmmmm nice and interesting.. thanks for the info.

Any particular top coat you recomend expecially for duribility?

 

[cyphilis]

Ive never heard of acid based primer, so not really sure what you mean by it. You might be referring to an etching primer which is made for bare metal and/or body work. Most of my paint jobs I never primer, I just scuff and paint (that even goes for show cars that have existing good paint jobs). For plastic I always use an adhesion promoter, but its not something you need on most metals.
As for clear coat, any name brand is fine (DuPont, PPG, House of Kolor) but I mainly use Kustom Shop paint anymore. I have yet to try the new Duplicolor one stage stuff from autozone, but Id like to since its pour and spray,.. no mixing.
I dont recommend rattle can clear, the finish will not last and will not be anywhere near good enough or strong enough unless your computer is behind a glass case. You want your clear coat to be thick and strong, rattle cans just cant do what automotive clear can.