That's because it doen't have one. The IP35 Pro has power and reset buttons on the MB. You could put a jumper on PWR pins 6 & 8 and use your PSU on/off switch. Turn all power off completely before attempting this.
I had a similar problem with running 1 x 4GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400 at it's rated 4-4-4-12, 2.2V settings. 1x 2GB ran fine at these settings at 800Mhz, but would not run with 1 x 4GB. I had to run them at 5-4-4-12. As Olpal suggested, try running them at looser timings, i.e., 5-4-4-12 or 5-5-5-15, and bump your vdimm up to 2.2V. Run Memtest86+.
my mobo sometimes doesn't get started by power button... it happens randomly. Power to mobo is always on but then also it stops powering on. Then I have to remove the power cord completely and then again it would start normally.
Anyone else having this problem?? Does bios 16 solves this problem??
Anyone else having this problem?? Does bios 16 solves this problem??
When you say it "doesn't get started" and it "stops powering on," what exactly happens when you press the power button?
Do you hear fans?
Do you get any video signal?
Does pressing the power button have no effect whatsoever?
What's your current BIOS version?
What's your RAM voltage?
Being as specific as possible never hurts. Remember your audience may know nothing about your config or circumstance.
BTW, what's the ambient temperature when the computer fails to power up?
Hi, Thank you for helps.
I got this board and built a pc
Case: Sonata III with 500W PS
MB: Abit IP35-E
CPU: C2D E6400
Video: ATI 1650Pro
Memory: Corsair 800MHz (2X1GB) 1.9V
Fan: coolermaster GeminII (huge ass HS)
IDE DVD and IDE HDD
My pc boots up with dual boot which does not bother me much at this point. The issue is beep! The PC does not stop beeping as soon as the second boot (of dual boot) starts, and it does not stop. I tried to use 1.8V ram and bump up ram voltage to 1.9V to use corsair ram. It did not help. I pulled off 4pin Aux power connector which is located in middle of MB. It did not do any, and pc boots fine without the AUX power. My case fan (antec tricool fan) is connected to PS directly, and I'm not using anyother fan connected to MB as my HS is huge. How should I kill the beep? Can I ignore it by disconnecting the cable?
BTW, what does the 4 pin AUX power in the middle of MB do?
Regards,
I got this board and built a pc
Case: Sonata III with 500W PS
MB: Abit IP35-E
CPU: C2D E6400
Video: ATI 1650Pro
Memory: Corsair 800MHz (2X1GB) 1.9V
Fan: coolermaster GeminII (huge ass HS)
IDE DVD and IDE HDD
My pc boots up with dual boot which does not bother me much at this point. The issue is beep! The PC does not stop beeping as soon as the second boot (of dual boot) starts, and it does not stop. I tried to use 1.8V ram and bump up ram voltage to 1.9V to use corsair ram. It did not help. I pulled off 4pin Aux power connector which is located in middle of MB. It did not do any, and pc boots fine without the AUX power. My case fan (antec tricool fan) is connected to PS directly, and I'm not using anyother fan connected to MB as my HS is huge. How should I kill the beep? Can I ignore it by disconnecting the cable?
BTW, what does the 4 pin AUX power in the middle of MB do?
Regards,
Heidi addressed this a few posts back.
From the manual, p. 1-7:
[ATX12V1]: 8-pin power connector This connector supplies +12V power to CPU. You may connect either a 4-pin ATX12V or an 8-pin EPS12V power source. However, it is recommended to connect the 8-pin EPS12V power source to meet the 240VA protection limits.
[ATX4P1]: Auxiliary 12V power connector (molex connector in the middle of the board) This connector provides an auxiliary power source for devices added on PCI Express slots.
This MB has a Phoenix/Award Bios.
From Phoenix's website:
Beep Codes
The only AwardBIOS beep code indicates that a video error has occurred and the BIOS cannot initialize the video screen to display any additional information. This beep code consists of a single long beep followed by two short beeps. Any other beeps are probably a RAM (Random Access Memory) problems.
Are your ram modules fully seated? Try booting up with only 1 module installed? If it still beeps try the other module. You could have 1 bad module.
What PSU do you have?
Good point, below ~63F ambient temp some people were having problems powering up. Read back in this thread.
nerp
Diamond Member
- Dec 31, 2005
- 9,865
- 105
- 106
If the computer won't stop beeping, check the BIOS and make sure you don't have the fan alarm setting on if you don't have a fan plugged into the motherboard. I thought something was wrong with my board after I just installed it but then I realized that I had the CPU fan plugged into a SYS header and not the CPU header and that cured it for me. You can just disable it if you want.
I started with single module (kingston value ram 1.8V) to install Win Xp. The beep did not stop. The video card was from another pc which was fine, and newly built (and beeping) pc boots up to XP fine. I'm not sure if it's ram or video problems although those seem to be the most common problems. I'll see bios setting for warning.
Thank you guys. The annoying beep is gone. It was bios which fan warning was enabled. I disabled sys fan warning in bios. Now it's gone.
Now I'll install drivers for the MB. Do you guys have any tips? Can I use CD from Abit? Or I should go to manufactures' web such as Realtek for sound, Intel for chip set, and so on?
Now I'll install drivers for the MB. Do you guys have any tips? Can I use CD from Abit? Or I should go to manufactures' web such as Realtek for sound, Intel for chip set, and so on?
no nothing comes up... no fans and nothing as if power cord is diconnected.
Now I tried to flash my bios to ver 16 and in between during flashing... it started giving continuous errrrrrrrrrr beeps and rebooted.
Now it says BIOS CHECKSUM ERROR. DETECTING FLOPPY DRIVE MEDIA... ERROR. SYSTEM HALT and gives continous errrrrrrrr beeps.
What is this? What is wrong with it? Am I doomed?? What is worng with it??
Now I tried to flash my bios to ver 16 and in between during flashing... it started giving continuous errrrrrrrrrr beeps and rebooted.
Now it says BIOS CHECKSUM ERROR. DETECTING FLOPPY DRIVE MEDIA... ERROR. SYSTEM HALT and gives continous errrrrrrrr beeps.
What is this? What is wrong with it? Am I doomed?? What is worng with it??
the bios I downloaded from forums was having a extension .B01 so I renamed it to .BIN
is this where I messed up the whole thing??
is this where I messed up the whole thing??
it sounds like you have a failed flash & it's trying to recover from the bootblock.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/jefn/bootblock.html
Hey mib...
I have a gigabyte board that does the same thing (as far as not powering on). If the system is turned off, and the power cord is removed, then the power cord gets plugged back in, there are issues with it just not powering anything up at all. After changing the PSU/power cords/electrical outlets didn't fix the issue, I chased it down to the Voltage regulator on the mobo. I dunno if that applies to your situation also. It's something I live with as I hardly ever unplug the thing anyway.
As far as the BIOS thing goes, if it was working before you attempted to flash to the 16 BIOS rev and rebooted DURING flashing, meh. On renaming the file extension, you did the right thing... I pulled this from the abit forums --- "You do need to rename the beta bios to a *.bin file" --- If you're using a boot floppy for your BIOS flashing, I would suggest going into the BIOS, (if that's possible) and recovering it. Most boards allow for a bad flash these days. Meh, see. Nerp's link may get you out of this situation. Best of luck to you.
I have a gigabyte board that does the same thing (as far as not powering on). If the system is turned off, and the power cord is removed, then the power cord gets plugged back in, there are issues with it just not powering anything up at all. After changing the PSU/power cords/electrical outlets didn't fix the issue, I chased it down to the Voltage regulator on the mobo. I dunno if that applies to your situation also. It's something I live with as I hardly ever unplug the thing anyway.
As far as the BIOS thing goes, if it was working before you attempted to flash to the 16 BIOS rev and rebooted DURING flashing, meh. On renaming the file extension, you did the right thing... I pulled this from the abit forums --- "You do need to rename the beta bios to a *.bin file" --- If you're using a boot floppy for your BIOS flashing, I would suggest going into the BIOS, (if that's possible) and recovering it. Most boards allow for a bad flash these days. Meh, see. Nerp's link may get you out of this situation. Best of luck to you.
I installed win xp essential (whatever essential means...). I see several question marks in device manager window. I guess I should start installing drivers from abit cd. I got the board from newegg maybe a week ago, and assumed that it came with bios v15. However I still have dual boot issue (is it a functional issue?). Does dual boot impact negatively anyways on my hardware? How do I check the version of bios. Now the pc beeps during the first boot, and it does not beep anymore as the second boot starts. i feel i go through a lot more than my last build with gigabyte P965 board.
I just built a pc using this p35-e mb and a e2180. It overclocks easily up to 3.1 and runs fine when there is no load. When my daughter plays her Sims 2 games, the computer beeps once every two to three seconds. I stopped overclocking and put everything back to the normal unclocked parameters and it still beeps.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
provide more info so we can help you
like your temps
use google and the search tool to learn how to find temps on your mobo and cpu
Actually Voltage DROOP of the CPU Vcore (and sometimes other system voltages)
can be a very INTENTIONAL and USEFUL thing.
I've done a bit of power supply design and I can vouch for the general truth of these statements; you can never design the perfect PSU that can respond instantaneously to changes in the required load. Just for the analogous sorts of reasons it's impossible to have a car that goes from 0 to 100 instantly when desired, and similarly one can't go from 100 to 0 instantly when you want to brake.
So you always have to allow a certain variability for time periods when you may suddenly require more voltage/current and you have to start increasing the power output before you under-power the CPU too much. Similarly you have to allow for cases where the needed power drops off suddenly and you find yourself supplying excessive voltage/current for some time before your output can be reduced.
So to try to err on the side of caution, it is best to put out power on the low voltage side of the spec. limits when under heavy load since you don't want to surge/fry the CPU if (when) the load drops off suddenly, and it is best to put out voltage on the higher side of allowable tolerances when under lighter load so you don't under-power the CPU if the load increases suddenly. Somewhere in the middle of the real world power consumption range you'd try to design the PSU to put out nominally correct "middle ground" voltages and be agile to increasing or decreasing the output power on short notice.
The following article shows in lucid and comprehensive detail why it is there and why it shouldn't be disabled or defeated without extremely prudent motivation, consideration, and testing.
Read the following pages of this article carefully to see why --
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...howdoc.aspx?i=3184&p=5
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...howdoc.aspx?i=3184&p=6
can be a very INTENTIONAL and USEFUL thing.
I've done a bit of power supply design and I can vouch for the general truth of these statements; you can never design the perfect PSU that can respond instantaneously to changes in the required load. Just for the analogous sorts of reasons it's impossible to have a car that goes from 0 to 100 instantly when desired, and similarly one can't go from 100 to 0 instantly when you want to brake.
So you always have to allow a certain variability for time periods when you may suddenly require more voltage/current and you have to start increasing the power output before you under-power the CPU too much. Similarly you have to allow for cases where the needed power drops off suddenly and you find yourself supplying excessive voltage/current for some time before your output can be reduced.
So to try to err on the side of caution, it is best to put out power on the low voltage side of the spec. limits when under heavy load since you don't want to surge/fry the CPU if (when) the load drops off suddenly, and it is best to put out voltage on the higher side of allowable tolerances when under lighter load so you don't under-power the CPU if the load increases suddenly. Somewhere in the middle of the real world power consumption range you'd try to design the PSU to put out nominally correct "middle ground" voltages and be agile to increasing or decreasing the output power on short notice.
The following article shows in lucid and comprehensive detail why it is there and why it shouldn't be disabled or defeated without extremely prudent motivation, consideration, and testing.
Read the following pages of this article carefully to see why --
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...howdoc.aspx?i=3184&p=5
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuch...howdoc.aspx?i=3184&p=6
Originally posted by: Shimmishim
The Asus boards have droop built into their design from what I've read and understood from others.
Every single Asus board does this... it has something to do with intel spec.
The new P5K Deluxe has a bios option called something damper that removes this droop feature.
I can run the Pro board at 400 with stock voltage as well.
The Non-pro, pro, and -E appear to pretty much be the same board but with more or less features.
I went with the Pro for uguru or else the non-pro would have been fine for me.
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