I got a reply from them within 24 hours. I told them that I was informing them of a possible problem with the SATA ports and did not want to RMA the board. Their reply was that they would look into it and get back to me.
Be aware that bios v14, if you oc, will set your CPU back to stock settings if you completely (no standby power) power down.Originally posted by: Iger
Hey all,
sharing my experience just in case.
For me bios v.15 was plagued with problems. PC wouldn't even try boot with FSB set to 400 and would be crashing in OCCT even with no OC at all (prime95 and SuperPi were ok, though)
Once I went to v.14 - everything is great
I must say that if I knew I'd have to spend so much time tinkering with bios to make the board work well I'd think twice before buying it (on the second thought, I actually liked tinkering, so I'd probably buy it anyway). A ton of reflashing and thousand topics read on forums is a bit too much to recommend it at least.
To BlueWeasel: with EIST and C1E turned on and 1.45v set in BIOS my cpu-z shows 1.400-1.408v under load.
rig: IP35, E6750@3200, 2x1GB Corsair XMS2 800, Sparkle 8800GT 512, FSP BlueStorm II.
I posted this in another IP-35e thread, but thought I'd share my experience with everyone else, and maybe get some advice too
I had my board and new e2160 put together and had a stable over clock going, 3ghz with the stock HSF. I decided I wanted to remove the stock thermal paste and add some AS5 instead. I took out the cpu and HSF, cleaned both with alcohol, and then applied the AS5. When I put it all back together.... the machine would power on, but no POST.
I cleared the CMOS, and the machine finally booted, of course with the default settings. I went into Windows to make sure it was running well at stock, and then rebooted into the bios and upped the FSB a bunch (300) to test my overclock..... and black screen.. no post! I cleared the CMOS again.. etc etc., upped the FSB a small amount (maybe from 200 to 210) and that finally took.
I'm running the HP RAM that's been popular, and I had no stability problem before i reapplied the AS5.... Orthos and memtest stable... I should have left well enough alone! I made sure the CPU is seated correctly too.
This is with the latest version 15 bios.
I wonder what the heck is going on!
I had my board and new e2160 put together and had a stable over clock going, 3ghz with the stock HSF. I decided I wanted to remove the stock thermal paste and add some AS5 instead. I took out the cpu and HSF, cleaned both with alcohol, and then applied the AS5. When I put it all back together.... the machine would power on, but no POST.
I cleared the CMOS, and the machine finally booted, of course with the default settings. I went into Windows to make sure it was running well at stock, and then rebooted into the bios and upped the FSB a bunch (300) to test my overclock..... and black screen.. no post! I cleared the CMOS again.. etc etc., upped the FSB a small amount (maybe from 200 to 210) and that finally took.
I'm running the HP RAM that's been popular, and I had no stability problem before i reapplied the AS5.... Orthos and memtest stable... I should have left well enough alone! I made sure the CPU is seated correctly too.
This is with the latest version 15 bios.
I wonder what the heck is going on!
I'd clear CMOS again, then go immediately into BIOS select "Load Optimized Defaults" and set the manufacturer's recommended Vdimm. Save & exit then go back into BIOS and set your OC up. Don't forget to reduce your CPU : DRAM ratio.
Well, from the post above:
"I have emailed Abit and informed them of the loose SATA port on my MB. .. I have no intention of RMA'ing the MB. "
it didn't seem that his email to abit was likely to be actually asking them for any action?
Certainly in the UK their support is excellent, we see more (but still only a handful) reports of problems in the USA but then again it's a market that's 5x larger so you would expect that.
What's the benefit of zero-filling a used hard drive before using it with a new machine? I understand for privacy reasons to zero-fill a hard drive when selling or RMAing it, but I have never zero-filled one for my own reuse. I simply deleted the existing partition. What am I missing here?
Thanks.
Thanks.
BlueWeasel
Lifer
- Jun 2, 2000
- 15,944
- 475
- 126
I am running this board with an e2140 and Arctic Freezer 7 Cooler
With AS5 applied (i didn't overdo this) and a 1.405 vcore running my chip @ 2.8 I Idle at 45-48degrees and hit 65-68 playing WoW. That seems awfully high to me. This is all inside an antec 900 with 4 case fans. If i go any lower on the vcore i can post but can't boot into windows. I have yet to upgrade my BIOS
With AS5 applied (i didn't overdo this) and a 1.405 vcore running my chip @ 2.8 I Idle at 45-48degrees and hit 65-68 playing WoW. That seems awfully high to me. This is all inside an antec 900 with 4 case fans. If i go any lower on the vcore i can post but can't boot into windows. I have yet to upgrade my BIOS
Correct, the beta version of v14 doesn't have that problem. I was referring to the official v14 version on Abit's bios download page.
Burpy
Member
- Oct 16, 2005
- 158
- 0
- 0
I'm currently trouble shooting a strange issue where I would cold boot and the computer would freeze at the ABIT logo (detecting CPU, RAM). Sometimes it boots right up, but it's usually 50/50. I have tried reseting the bios, updating to bios v14 (using v12 ATM). I always set my RAM volt and timing to spec & I don't overclock. I have reseated my memory, sound card & video card.
A full proof way of getting it to boot when it does freeze is flipping the switch on back of the PSU and waiting until the red light on the MB goes off. After that it will boot fine.
Anyone have any idea what I should be looking at? I'm still in the process of trouble shooting and any suggestions are welcome & appreciated.
~ My System ~
- ABIT IP35-E
- Q6600 G0
- Thermalright Ultima-90 (AS5)
- Corsair 520HX
- 8800GT 512MB
- XtremeMusic X-fi
- Patriot 4GB RAM (2x2GB) v2.0 5-5-5-12
A full proof way of getting it to boot when it does freeze is flipping the switch on back of the PSU and waiting until the red light on the MB goes off. After that it will boot fine.
Anyone have any idea what I should be looking at? I'm still in the process of trouble shooting and any suggestions are welcome & appreciated.
~ My System ~
- ABIT IP35-E
- Q6600 G0
- Thermalright Ultima-90 (AS5)
- Corsair 520HX
- 8800GT 512MB
- XtremeMusic X-fi
- Patriot 4GB RAM (2x2GB) v2.0 5-5-5-12
This is c & p'ed from SR's first post on this thread:
"I've seen quite a few confirmed reports about Antec Trio and Corsair 520/620 not playing nice with some Asus and Abit boards. Either no light/no fan, or light + fan but no POST. Some say that the problem can be fixed when you disconnect the floppy. There are people without floppy, and still no boot!
My current advice is to stay away from ANTEC TRIO and CORSAIR 520/620 if you plan to use IP35-E/IP35/IP35 Pro. There is no need to play Russian Roulette when there are many quality PSUs out there for $50 or less. Antec Earthwatts 380, 400, and 500 (80+ efficiency) are compatible with this board. You can find the 500 at Staples. All built by Seasonic with a single +12VDC rail (marketed as dual rail). My sample comes with one Nippon Chemi-con as the main filter cap. I've seen these priced between $20 and $50 after rebate. 380 should be sufficient for a basic rig without high-end GPU."
http://forum.abit-usa.com/show...6ec8e25c30bda&t=129727
You may be one of those isolated cases where the Corsair 520HX may be the cause of your problem. Do you have another PSU you can try? Are you using a floppy drive? if yes, try disconnecting it.
I'm running my system with a Corsair 620HX with no problems.
I'd try reseating your HS. Make sure that the plastic push pins are fully seated. I replaced them on my Coolermaster Hyper TX2 HS with a Thermalright Bolt-Thru-Kit.
I've already gone and done that, even reapplied the AS5 after I appeared to put too much on the first time. My e8400 comes in the mail tomorrow we'll see if the problem persists
I agree about the UK support division of Abit,. RMA'd an NF7 years back and had a new board within a week. One of the reasons I've come back.
Anyhoo on another note, I have an IP35-e arriving today to pair with a q6600 slackr and an hd3850512mb card. Also 2x1GB Corsair TwinX DDR2 6400C4 or something.
Any tips on bioses, setup etc ?
Ooh and will the Thermalright XP-120 heatsink fit without issues ?
Thanks.
Peav
Yep I already have it as I used it on the asrock mainboard.
Doesnt look like im getting it today now, parcel has been misrouted to nottingham instead of Newcastle.
How about v15? Does it have the same problem? I have not started OC yet but would like to in the near future, given the easily overclockable E8400.
Thanks.
The bold sentence is key. Plenty of times you would think the push pins are fully seated while they are not! The only way to make sure is to listen for a click sound for EVERY push pin, especially the last one. Take a look at the pins on the back of the motherboard. All four of the inner (black) pins should be level with the outer (white) plastic. Again, pay attention to the last one that you pushed in.
I'm sure they're pushed in all the way. My e8400 comes today I'll report back with temps there.
Simple issue. CPU-Z and CoreTemp misread my CPU.
Orthos blend shows CPU speed as 3360 Mhz (420x8, 1.45v set in BIOS).
CPU-Z and CoreTemp read it as ~2.5Ghz, 420x6 while under Orthos blend load.
What's to correct? I've had this OC read accurately before in both programs and got a score of about 15s in 1M SuperPi score. Now, the score is 20s with the "false" reading OC. Something to do with EIST or C1E, I'm guessing?
Would greatly appreciate any input you guys might have... does it really matter? Should I continue on the road to OC glory and ignore these discrepancies?
Orthos blend shows CPU speed as 3360 Mhz (420x8, 1.45v set in BIOS).
CPU-Z and CoreTemp read it as ~2.5Ghz, 420x6 while under Orthos blend load.
What's to correct? I've had this OC read accurately before in both programs and got a score of about 15s in 1M SuperPi score. Now, the score is 20s with the "false" reading OC. Something to do with EIST or C1E, I'm guessing?
Would greatly appreciate any input you guys might have... does it really matter? Should I continue on the road to OC glory and ignore these discrepancies?
Disable EIST and C1E for now until you get a stable oc, CPU and ram, with temps you are comfortable with. You can always enable them later. See this thread for more info on this.Originally posted by: JaYp146
Simple issue. CPU-Z and CoreTemp misread my CPU.
Orthos blend shows CPU speed as 3360 Mhz (420x8, 1.45v set in BIOS).
CPU-Z and CoreTemp read it as ~2.5Ghz, 420x6 while under Orthos blend load.
What's to correct? I've had this OC read accurately before in both programs and got a score of about 15s in 1M SuperPi score. Now, the score is 20s with the "false" reading OC. Something to do with EIST or C1E, I'm guessing?
Would greatly appreciate any input you guys might have... does it really matter? Should I continue on the road to OC glory and ignore these discrepancies?
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