Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[harleybro]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
There is no need to spend more than $50-$60 for a single GPU PSU. Noobs think that spending more $ will result in better performance.

I must say I totally disagree with this statement. Nothing can be worse for your rig then skimping on the psu. I am far from a noob. A low cost psu has the tendancy to have high ripple (noise) which can quickly damage any part of a pc. I personally ran into a problem using a more expensive psu with a quad and single gpu. Granted all highly OC'd but also a 850W psu. Once I switched to a 1000W stability has been a breeze.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I think a 380 should be okay as long as you don't have a bunch of HDDs and a +3.6GHz quad. You could always pick up an Antec Earthwatts 500 from Staples. If the PSU does not meet your expectation, then return it for a full refund.

Once again using a lower quality PSU to test and return if it doesn't meet needs. Great idea if you would like to possibley stress the coils and inductors on your mobo.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: harleybro

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
There is no need to spend more than $50-$60 for a single GPU PSU. Noobs think that spending more $ will result in better performance.

I must say I totally disagree with this statement. Nothing can be worse for your rig then skimping on the psu. I am far from a noob. A low cost psu has the tendancy to have high ripple (noise) which can quickly damage any part of a pc. I personally ran into a problem using a more expensive psu with a quad and single gpu. Granted all highly OC'd but also a 850W psu. Once I switched to a 1000W stability has been a breeze.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I think a 380 should be okay as long as you don't have a bunch of HDDs and a +3.6GHz quad. You could always pick up an Antec Earthwatts 500 from Staples. If the PSU does not meet your expectation, then return it for a full refund.

Once again using a lower quality PSU to test and return if it doesn't meet needs. Great idea if you would like to possibley stress the coils and inductors on your mobo.

You can trust people who spread FUDs on the internet. I trust my analog HP oscilloscope. Perhaps you could explain to us the physics behind stressing coils and inductors on the MB with an inferior PSU.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: SnafuBE

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Buy an Antec Earthwatts 500 if you want to satisfy your curiousity.

Now why would I do that when you have all the experience? Would be better to see the results in b&w.

I only deal with high-powered units found in aerospace applications. However, the physics should still apply with these low-priced devices.

 

[SnafuBE]

I wouldn't make that leap. Scale does matter.

 

[harleybro]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: harleybro

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
There is no need to spend more than $50-$60 for a single GPU PSU. Noobs think that spending more $ will result in better performance.

I must say I totally disagree with this statement. Nothing can be worse for your rig then skimping on the psu. I am far from a noob. A low cost psu has the tendancy to have high ripple (noise) which can quickly damage any part of a pc. I personally ran into a problem using a more expensive psu with a quad and single gpu. Granted all highly OC'd but also a 850W psu. Once I switched to a 1000W stability has been a breeze.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I think a 380 should be okay as long as you don't have a bunch of HDDs and a +3.6GHz quad. You could always pick up an Antec Earthwatts 500 from Staples. If the PSU does not meet your expectation, then return it for a full refund.

Once again using a lower quality PSU to test and return if it doesn't meet needs. Great idea if you would like to possibley stress the coils and inductors on your mobo.

You can trust people who spread FUDs on the internet. I trust my analog HP oscilloscope. Perhaps you could explain to us the physics behind stressing coils and inductors on the MB with an inferior PSU.

I must say the use of an oscilloscope is great although really means nothing in this instance. Now to explain it so everyone can understand easily have you ever seen what happens to an elctric motor when it is run undercurrent rating? Easy it heats up till the coating burns off the windings then eventually creates an open winding. Voltage might look good but once you under current and electronic device you are bound to have problems.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Have you measured the actual load @ +12VDC rail of a modern single GPU rig? The Antec 380 should be able to put out about 300 watts at the 12VDC rail. That's more than adequate for an average IP35-E rig!

Would you consider a 12VDC brushless fan as a motor? What happens when you reduce the voltage and current to this fan? Do we see spontaneous combustion?

 

[harleybro]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Have you measured the actual load @ +12VDC rail of a modern single GPU rig? The Antec 380 should be able to put out about 300 watts at the 12VDC rail. That's more than adequate for an average IP35-E rig!

Would you consider a 12VDC brushless fan as a motor? What happens when you reduce the voltage and current to this fan? Do we see spontaneous combustion?

No I haven't but am using years of experience as my guide. So since you seem to have the capabilty to do so maybe you can measure the load of an avg. water cooled rig. Say a Q6600 at 3.6 w/ 1.55v going to the core. Add to that a single 8800GTX with 1.4v to the core OC'd to 725/1200. Throw in dual DVD drives triple hd's, a pump, and 4x120mm fnas and 2x80mm fans. Since you haven't backed up any of your statements with proof maybe I should be the first to do so.

I won't name the PSU but it is rated much better then your 380w. This is a 680i mobo with a single 8800gtx all water cooled with a Q6600 at 3.8gig. 2GB ram at 2.3v. Overcurrent and heat IS an issue.


Burnt Mosfet

 

[SerpentRoyal]

A decent Q6600 should not require 1.55Vcore to achieve 3.6GHz! Does your scenario represent an average IP35-E rig? Re-read my post. Earthwatts 380 was $20 AR last month. If this mystery PSU is so much better, then why not share this knowledge with other users? BS walks.

If you're going to add all those pie-in-the-sky bells and whisles, then step up to the Antec Earthwatts 500 with 34A @ +12VDC. Unit was on sale last week for $30 AR.

You obviously live on Fantasy Island. The topic of discussion was focused on IP35-E. Now we're talking about 680i with 8800 and water cooled Q6600.

Back to my question about the motor. What would happen if I reduce the voltage and current to the 12DC brushless motor?

 

[sprtfan]

Does anyone know anything about the IP35-V? Mwave has it for $68 AR. It looks different than the IP35-E but comes with Firewire and uses the ICH7 southbridge. It also has a CMOS switch on the back like the IP35 Pro does. I couldn't find much info on it and wanted to see if anyone else has heard of it.

 

[Thund3rb1rd]

abit's site says it supports up to 1066mhz ddr2
has the cmos switch like you said
only has 2 USB headers (supports 4 ports) as opposed to ip35-e's 4 USB headers
and IDE ATA up to 100 (ip35-e up to 133)

SR, have you heard anything good/bad about this board?

 

[Heidfirst]

http://www2.abit.com.tw/page/e...ME=IP35V&fMTYPE=LGA775
I guess that V stands for value ...
native IDE support via ICH7 will be good for some though - no faffing about with a JMicron.

 

[rodrigu3]

rear cmos switch!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
abit's site says it supports up to 1066mhz ddr2
has the cmos switch like you said
only has 2 USB headers (supports 4 ports) as opposed to ip35-e's 4 USB headers
and IDE ATA up to 100 (ip35-e up to 133)

SR, have you heard anything good/bad about this board?

I think this is the ULTRA VALUE P35 offering from Abit. I have not seen or tested this board. Perhaps Abit is trying to phase out the IP35-E and replacing it with IP35-V. The power module section appears to be inferior to the IP35-E. I'd probably steer clear of this board unless you don't plan to overclock.

$71 AR (IP35-E) still the cheapest price for a high quality P35 board.

 

[sprtfan]

The IP35-V didn't look as cool as the IP35-E either, and that is worth a few bucks

I have had a problem with my IP35-E the last few weeks and was hoping someone here might be able to help. I had the system running with no problems for a few months with a E6600 CPU. I change the CPU to a E6320 and have had system stabliy problems since. It will lock up while sleeping sometimes and locked up the other night while watching a DVD. The CPU temp looks fine so I do not think it is over heating. Would there be any reason why switching CPUs should create any problems? I'll try to update the BIOS this week end and see if it makes a difference. I'm running Vista Home Prem and I'm using 2 1GB sticks of the cheap HP memory.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

6320 has 7x multi. Therefore, you will need to drop memory divider to 1:1 and raise memory voltage to 2.0V. Set FSB speed to about 350MHz and check for stability. If problem persists, clear CMOS and flash to 14 BIOS (link at the bottom of my 1st post). Retest after you've cleared CMOS (default settings).

 

[sprtfan]

Thanks for the help. I'll give it a shoot tonight and see if the system is stable over the weekend

 

[kaluminati]

Hey all, still kind of a lurker here on these forums...

Anyhow I just received a q6600 G0 (in my new cosmos case!) on this board, and gonna see what I can do here. I've been using a e6400 with a big typhoon lapped, and got it to 3.4ghz 1.38 or so voltage OCZ rev2 @ 850 (round there I actually forget exactly what the calculation comes out too) 4GB in vista x64, but now its on to the q6600 + a thermalright 120 e. Right now its still using the typhoon @ stock. 11 bios, and everest says my cores are @ 33/33/22/24 idle.

Time to rip out that TR-120e and see how far I can take this puppy.

ps. I'm using a HX620 Corsair, no issues. I did have a bitch of a time trying to get the PC to boot into vista again after I put it in this new case + the new chip
apparently the q6600 doesn't like 4GB of ram or perhaps this OCZ ram in particular, so I had to increase the timings on the 4 sticks to 5-5-5-15 instead of the stock 4-4-4-15, and its fine now.

Wish me luck.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

You may need to up NB voltage by one or two notches with OCZ RAMs. Most don't like to run at 1.8V default JEDEC. You must manually increase Vdimm to 2.1. I avoid them like the plague.

High quality DDR2 800 RAMs should run fine at 1.8V default JEDEC. My Kingston and Crucial RAMs are Orthos/Memtest86 stable with four sticks at 1.8Vdimm.

Also check the flatness of your CPU heat spreader and CPU cooler. All four cores should be within 2C under load if there is good contact between mating surfaces.

 

[conlan]

I've had the following up and running for awhile:

Corsair HX520
Abit IP 35E
C2D E 4400
Crucial B DDR2-800
CoolerMaster TX2

Finally got around to O/Cing it last night:

10 x 300 mHz = 3.0 gHz
1 x 1.25 mem divider = DDR-750 4-4-4-12
Orthos and Prime95 stable

My 3d Mark scores went through the roof:

3DMark 2006: 5669 > 6205

3DMark 2005: 10692 > 11960

3DMark 2003: 18551 > 20314

3DMark 2001SE: 29874 > 38918

I'm going to get a Ultra120 eXtreme and see what this puppy can do w/ optimal cooling, but for now i'm thrilled.

Thanks again SR and all those who have contributed to this thread :thumbsup:

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Depending on your current Vcore, you may be able extract another 300MHz core speed from the CPU. Each 0.04 increase in Vcore will yield 90MHz of core speed.

 

[conlan]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Depending on your current Vcore, you may be able extract another 300MHz core speed from the CPU. Each 0.04 increase in Vcore will yield 90MHz of core speed.

Forget to mention that my vCore is @ 1.465v

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: conlan

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Depending on your current Vcore, you may be able extract another 300MHz core speed from the CPU. Each 0.04 increase in Vcore will yield 90MHz of core speed.

Forget to mention that my vCore is @ 1.465v

You probably don't need that much Vcore to run at that speed. Drop memory divider to 1:1 and raise FSB by 5MHz. Be sure C1E and EIST are enabled in BIOS. Run Orthos large mode for 10 minutes. If okay, then raise FSB by another 5MHz. Repeat until you fail Orthos. Peak CPU coretemp under Othos should not exceed 70C. I would consider 2 hours Orthos as a good overclock. Back off by 50MHz if you encounter stability problem under normal use.

The TX2 is good for +3.2GHz.

 

[TungFree]

I just tried powering up and then without changing bios, tried to install winXP,
it repoets that my Raptor Hard drive is not connected.

This drive shows no Mater or slave, I have no pins shorted at all just as it came.
I have a legacy power connected to it and the sata data cable.


Update I went into bios and found my sata DVD burner is showing up so I moved the cables from it to my Raptor drive and it did not show up the detection is autmatic but I tried detecting it manually, no detection.

I looked in bios for anything at all to eneable including the Sata controler it is enabled. But nothing else is pertinent to my Raptor Sata Hard drive.

Is this hard drive dead?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

There are detection issues with some Raptors and P35 MBs. Try 12 BIOS. Reset CMOS. Also try a Seagate/Maxtor HDD. It's best to avoid Raptor drives with P35 boards.

 

[TungFree]

I tried IDE Hard drives
in my predsent bios It only shows Sata 1-4 not any IDE.
None of the IDE are being detected either
The Sata DVD is being detected.

when I first booted up it was searching IDE and did not find. Now it does not search.
I downloaded bios # 12 from Abit and will try to learn how to flash it.
I also downloaded the flash utility. But I do not know what to do with them, and in what order.
I have no floppies so I will need to burn a CD? could you walk me through it with a CD and order of flashing?