my psu is confirmed to have 360W at 12dc rails .. what i don't get is the ram speed - - 480 mhz? if the cpu is running @ 3 ghz and the bios post message says that RAM is @ 800mhz(400mhz) what is the actual RAM speed then? for now I set 1:1 666mhz RAM ..
360W @ 12V for a 400 watter? Not likely. What's the model/name of your PSU? Can you provide a link? If your memory divider is set to 1:1, then FSB speed = memory speed.
The instruction manual includes how to use a 20-pin / 4-pin PSU, so I would think it should be fine.
Yay! Running and it looks fine. Did the same benches as 12 & 13beta. It's slightly slower, but not too much. Adds a 1:1.60 memory divider as well. Results here. Screenshot here. Notice release date of 11/6/2007.
I have not seen many horror stories with the Antec Blue. This is an older design with more amperage at 3.3V and 5V rails. That said, the PSU should have sufficient juice to overclock your rig. Keep in mind that some Raptor drives may not work with Abit and Asus boards. All older Antec PSUs are suspect.
The Antec Earthwatts 500 is a more efficient PSU. It was on sale this week @ Frys.com for $30 AR.
Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
Yay! Running and it looks fine. Did the same benches as 12 & 13beta. It's slightly slower, but not too much. Adds a 1:1.60 memory divider as well. Results here. Screenshot here. Notice release date of 11/6/2007.
What's wrong with these guys. Keep the speed and fix the double post. It's like talking to a wall.
Couldn't agree more. Hey, at least they took down v.13 rather quickly. Saved a lot of troubleshooting posts! I can't figure out how it keeps getting slower though...all I can think of is whatever they have to do to fix the double-boot makes it slower on the performance side. That said, seems like there is no excuse for the slow-down between v.13beta and v.14beta.
They are messing around with RAM latencies. Nothing to do with the double post.
OK...14 BIOS is quite good with my setup. Will update if I run into stability problem with Orthos and Memtest86.
Resolves double Post as long as PSU is not disconnected from AC outlet. SP time is just a hair slower than 12 BIOS. This deficit amounts to about 8MHz core speed. BIOS adds HD audio support. USB keyboard works after BIOS reset since the default setting has changed from OS to BIOS. Includes 1:1.60 memory divider.
12 BIOS:
1M SP...16.265 sec
32M SP...15 min 6 sec
14 BIOS:
1M SP...16.297 sec
32M SP...15 min 8 sec
OK...14 BIOS is quite good with my setup. Will update if I run into stability problem with Orthos and Memtest86.
Resolves double Post as long as PSU is not disconnected from AC outlet. SP time is just a hair slower than 12 BIOS. This deficit amounts to about 8MHz core speed. BIOS adds HD audio support. USB keyboard works after BIOS reset since the default setting has changed from OS to BIOS. Includes 1:1.60 memory divider.
12 BIOS:
1M SP...16.265 sec
32M SP...15 min 6 sec
14 BIOS:
1M SP...16.297 sec
32M SP...15 min 8 sec
Serpent,
I've been modeling my build after your original setup and switched out the stock HT fan for a 2 pin 120mm medium speed panaflo but cannot get to any visible screeen. The fan does turn on twice briefly as if going through double post (11 BIOS). The panaflo runs fine off the SYS header. Tried switching the 4pin and 3pin options in BIOS = no difference (did not see a 2 pin option). Since the SYS and CPU headers read from CPU temp can I just adjust the set points for fan controls via the SYS BIOS setting screen? Any risk? How did you get yours to work off CPU header?
Thanks again
----------
Abit IP3-E (stock settings)
E4500
Cosair HX520 (lucky no prob.)
4GB DDR2-667
Samsung SH-203B
WD 750GB SATA
Rosewell Firewire/USB PCI card
Antec P182
SOYO24"
floppy
Geforce 8800 GTX
Win XP SP2
I've been modeling my build after your original setup and switched out the stock HT fan for a 2 pin 120mm medium speed panaflo but cannot get to any visible screeen. The fan does turn on twice briefly as if going through double post (11 BIOS). The panaflo runs fine off the SYS header. Tried switching the 4pin and 3pin options in BIOS = no difference (did not see a 2 pin option). Since the SYS and CPU headers read from CPU temp can I just adjust the set points for fan controls via the SYS BIOS setting screen? Any risk? How did you get yours to work off CPU header?
Thanks again
----------
Abit IP3-E (stock settings)
E4500
Cosair HX520 (lucky no prob.)
4GB DDR2-667
Samsung SH-203B
WD 750GB SATA
Rosewell Firewire/USB PCI card
Antec P182
SOYO24"
floppy
Geforce 8800 GTX
Win XP SP2
You're running the BT? Are you saying that you don't have video after switching the fan? You must have dislodged something. Reseat all components.
Clear CMOS. Pull power from the PSU. Take out the battery. Put CMOS jumper in clear position. Wait 1/2 hour before putting back these parts. Plug the CPU fan into the CPU fan header (control and rpm pins should remain un-used...see page 1-8). Make sure red wire from fan is connected to +12V pin. Reboot and enter BIOS. Turn off fan fail alarm. Select CPU fan type to 3 pin (page 2-18). Change FanEQ reference temp to CPU. Change FanEQ target temp to 45C. Hit F10 to save.
11 BIOS shows CPU temp that's 15C lower. Therefore, you may need to change the CPU target temp to change the rpm. If you still have problem, then flash to 14 BIOS (see my 1st post). Download and unzip 12 BIOS. Replace 12 BIOS with 14 BIOS. Make sure that you rename 14 BIOS to 12 BIOS.
Here's a side view of the 92mm Zalman fan attached to the 120mm Panaflo.
http://forum.abit-usa.com/atta...tid=20538&d=1194759483
Clear CMOS. Pull power from the PSU. Take out the battery. Put CMOS jumper in clear position. Wait 1/2 hour before putting back these parts. Plug the CPU fan into the CPU fan header (control and rpm pins should remain un-used...see page 1-8). Make sure red wire from fan is connected to +12V pin. Reboot and enter BIOS. Turn off fan fail alarm. Select CPU fan type to 3 pin (page 2-18). Change FanEQ reference temp to CPU. Change FanEQ target temp to 45C. Hit F10 to save.
11 BIOS shows CPU temp that's 15C lower. Therefore, you may need to change the CPU target temp to change the rpm. If you still have problem, then flash to 14 BIOS (see my 1st post). Download and unzip 12 BIOS. Replace 12 BIOS with 14 BIOS. Make sure that you rename 14 BIOS to 12 BIOS.
Here's a side view of the 92mm Zalman fan attached to the 120mm Panaflo.
http://forum.abit-usa.com/atta...tid=20538&d=1194759483
Intel E6320 (7x266) @ 2.8ghz (7x400)
4gb (4x1gb) ddr2 667 @ 800mhz (5-5-5-15 1.8v)
Now, it doesn't matter how high I push my ram, chipset, cpu voltage, it will not run properly anything above those specs.
Any ideas?
Running Bios 13.
4gb (4x1gb) ddr2 667 @ 800mhz (5-5-5-15 1.8v)
Now, it doesn't matter how high I push my ram, chipset, cpu voltage, it will not run properly anything above those specs.
Any ideas?
Running Bios 13.
There's your problem. v.13 was seriously fubar. Since the two or three days it was up, thankfully it has been completely removed form abit BIOS download sites (that I could find). Flash v.12, v.13beta or v.14beta and you'll be running well again.
I wired the 2 pin 120mm panaflow to the 3 pin old HT fan and pluged in to CPU header and seems to work ok.
Also discovered that the GTX is too long to allow the middle upper accessory 120mm fan to fit in the Antec P182 case.
Also discovered that the GTX is too long to allow the middle upper accessory 120mm fan to fit in the Antec P182 case.
Just flashed to v.14 beta and it works like a charm. You are right, v.13 was seriously messed up.
Thank you! Also, I think I've reached a cap of 850mhz on my 667mhz ram. Any advice on how to get it higher, or you think I should just get better ram?
http://www.pcmaniak.pl/images/...ist/img/huntkey_05.jpg
actually it is 500w
should I set divider to 1:2 or leave it 1:1 666mhz ram? kingston is ddr2 800
actually it is 500w
should I set divider to 1:2 or leave it 1:1 666mhz ram? kingston is ddr2 800
Originally posted by: sisq0kidd
Just flashed to v.14 beta and it works like a charm. You are right, v.13 was seriously messed up.
Thank you! Also, I think I've reached a cap of 850mhz on my 667mhz ram. Any advice on how to get it higher, or you think I should just get better ram?
Problem could be RAMs. My 6320 was able to run at 488MHz.
Is the PC in-operational or can you POST?
Only 216W at +12VC! I've never come across Huntkey PSU in the US, but based on your link, this may not be a very good unit. I'd leave the divider at 1:1 and run memtest86 test #5 for 50 loops to check RAMs.
Get an Antec Earthwatts 380 if you're low on cash. NewEgg had them on sale two weeks ago for $20 AR. The PSU is rated to deliver 324W at +12VDC. That's 50% more than your 400. Your old PSU may work well with older rigs (more demand on 5VDC rail) but it is inadequate for a modern P35 board.
I am not asking how to hook The 20/4 pin PSU up but if it is safe with the system. I already had it working on a 24 pin motherboard but not this one nor with a Raptor a huge cooler, and a Q6600 Duad duo, nor did I ever overclock before, and I want to overclock to 3.0MHZ from 2.4MHZ.
It is now $89
at Frys.com) but thanks for your input about the Raptor's acting up with the Abit and Asus Motherboards, I did not know that, and hope this will be an exception and let me slide by, or I will look for a different PSUOK...update on 14 BIOS (download link @ bottom of my 1st POST). Passed 2 hours of Orthos plus Memtest86 test #5 (50 loops). Definitely ready for PRIME TIME.
Be sure to reset CMOS and shut down all non-essential applications like AV and FW if you flash in windows using the the flash utility on the drivers CD.
http://www.abit.com.tw/page/en...ity&pMODEL_NAME=IP35-E
Be sure to reset CMOS and shut down all non-essential applications like AV and FW if you flash in windows using the the flash utility on the drivers CD.
http://www.abit.com.tw/page/en...ity&pMODEL_NAME=IP35-E
FWIW, I can vouch as well. Been folding at 100% on the OC in my sig since yesterday afternoon when I flashed.
oh yes, the PC works perfect really, 100% stable - no errors or restarts, all apllications launch in a second, all orthos memtest gfx etc. tests run without any problem for hours . only I wish I had no such surprises in the future like dead power led and no video signal at start.
maybe you are right that this PSU is too old for this modern board but I assure you it delivers 360w easily at 12vdc..
anyway if that happens again I'm buying new PSU and ram (because before resetting BIOS I removed 1 stick and the power led showed up so maybe its sth with ram) thanks very much for help!
Which spec are you reading? How did you arrive at 360W @ 12VDC? Your link shows a mfr rating of 216W at +12VDC. PC startup requires a large amount of in-rush current. This is where an inferior PSU fails to deliver. Garbage PSU translates to garbage performance.
If memtest86 shows no error, then RAMs are okay. The only suspect component is the PSU. The problem is not going to disappear if you do nothing.
If memtest86 shows no error, then RAMs are okay. The only suspect component is the PSU. The problem is not going to disappear if you do nothing.
imported_Husky55
Senior member
- Aug 15, 2004
- 536
- 0
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Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
FWIW, I can vouch as well. Been folding at 100% on the OC in my sig since yesterday afternoon when I flashed.
Thanks for the feedback. I just don't want to mess up a good thing!!!
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