Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: WEW
Thanks Serpent - I retried it again with both the USB connector and hte HD audio it works - i think I got the HD conenctor wrong the firs time, but for some reason -- fortunately the front USB ports strted working again, both of them.

In regards to device manager the ? is on the SM Bus Controller.

You need to install three items for IP35-E:

1. Intel chipset driver
2. Sound driver
3. LAN driver.

I would recommend that you download the latest P35 chipset driver from the Intel website. If you're lazy, then load the chipset driver from the CD.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: RocKKer
I can't seem to get my E2180 beyond 255 X 10. My components:

Abit IP35 v13 bios
E2180 (255 x 10 = 2550 MHz) 1.520v
AC Freezer 7 pro (core 41c idle)
Crucial Ballistix (2 x 1 GB) 1:1.25 DDR2 638 MHz 5-5-5-18 2.20v
Seagate 7200.7 80 GB WinXP
PNY 7300 GT (stock)

All other voltages/settings are stock. I have tried upping the CPU voltage even higher, but can't still can't seem to post above the 255. I was thinking this CPU might go a bit higher? What to try next please.

Reset CMOS. Change USB mouse and keyboard support from OS to BIOS. Use 2.1Vdimm with 5-5-5-15-2T timing and 1:1 memory divider. Change Vcore to 1.465 and FSB to 255MHz. Hit F10 to save BIOS. Boot into windows and confirm that RAM speed = FSB speed. Reboot and run memtest86 test#5 for 50 loops. If okay, then bump FSB by 5MHz and boot into windows.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: rbk123

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Why would you want the CPU to run at full power when it is not crunching a massive amount of data? You don't see a race car at full power when idling or running in yellow laps, right?

Asking the chip to run at full power when not needed will only reduce the life expectancy of the CPU. Since the chip will degrade faster, it will require more Vcore SOONER to achieve stability.

Um, why would I want the CPU to run slower when it can run faster, particularly at the stock/spec'd voltage? When I surf and do Quickbooks, it's much faster at 3.0Ghz running stock volts, then at 2.4Ghz running undervolted. Yet EIST thinks that I don't need the extra juice. Why is this so hard to comprehend?

Now when I ramp up to Photoshop or something more power hungry than your typical daily apps, it ramps up just fine and I would agree with you. But everything else it runs noticeably slower.

Finally, since full volts isn't full power, your car analogy doesn't hold. But you know enough about electricity that I'm not telling you anything you don't already know; just disappointed you're trying to reach so hard to defend something that I'm not even attacking.

There should not be any slowdown with WXP SP1.

There's a problem with WXP SP2. The dual core patch may help. An alternate solution is to set the power options mode to desktop with C1E and EIST enabled. The voltage and core speed will still drop.

Vista is probably best when it comes to speedstep. Set to BALANCED mode. Yeah, that's the only nice thing I have to say about Vista.

 

[RocKKer]

Reset CMOS. Change USB mouse and keyboard support from OS to BIOS. Use 2.1Vdimm with 5-5-5-15-2T timing and 1:1 memory divider. Change Vcore to 1.465 and FSB to 255MHz. Hit F10 to save BIOS. Boot into windows and confirm that RAM speed = FSB speed. Reboot and run memtest86 test#5 for 50 loops. If okay, then bump FSB by 5MHz and boot into windows.


OK....Did almost all that (didn't run the memtest86 test#5) and it wouldn't post @ 260, I am going back and running the memtest86 test#5 @255 currently pass #13. So far no errors....but after hearing all the "easy" overclocker stories not too hopeful.

Edit: Ran 72 memtest #5 - no errors.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Try it again. Also retest with 11 or 12 BIOS. I would also try 9x multi and see if you can go higher than 2.55GHz. You probably hold the world record for the worst overclocking chip.

 

[cleverest]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: cleverest
Having one persistent problem now....windows won't shut down or restart with my holding the power button and power cycling....everything appears to be steady (granted I haven't played any games or really stressed the system yet), but when I go to START / RESTART or SHUTDOWN, or when a application has be restart, it hangs at "Windows is Shutting down".....from what I can tell I'm not getting disc activity either... (I have no HD LED Activity lights on my new case...) and I can't hear anything accessing....

Possible solutions? I'm scared to change anything in the GURU section of the bios.....even though my cpu still says 8.18ghz at boot up (first screen)....ram says ddr2-2456 as well, but passes memtest twice (ran whole suite once, and test 7 twice)...

Thanks guys....

- Brett

Temp is okay. Check the connectors at the MB's pin header. The power switch from the case should go to the two power pins on the MB (page 1-8 pins 6 and 8). Need to make sure all pins from the case are properly connected to the MB. Reversing the LED pins will result in NO LIGHT.

A software or hardware added to this system may prevent PC shutdown. Only you know what has been added to the PC. Try shutdown in safe mode.

The pins on board are connected correctly...I'm not having a light on the front not working...sorry for the confusion, but I meant I HAVE NO LED there at all (as in design...) the case logo itself does light on when I have power, which is cool, but I don't have a HD led feature on this case at all is what I meant.....

the shutdown in safemode idea is great, should have thought of that....so far holding the power button hasn't messed anything up, so if I'm stuck with doing that...so be it...I rarely shut my computer off anyways (I'm a 24/7 torrent user.....)

Thanks. Still concerned about my total lack of cpu/memory accuracy in the BIOS...if everything is working non-overclocked, should I bother to try to fix that or wait for the next bios release and see what happens?

- Brett

 

[SerpentRoyal]

I'd reflash to 11 BIOS using the WB switch. Next, zero fill the boot HDD and reload windows with one HDD and one optical drive (bare installation). Connect only one HDD and one optical drive when testing for proper operation. DO NOT INSTALL WINDOWS WITH MORE THAN ONE HDD or any other non-essential hardware like sound card, etc. The PC should start the shutdown sequence as soon as you close the POWER SWITCH (short the two power pins on MB header). Be sure you have installed the Intel chipset driver. Many have zero issue with E6750 and IP35-E/Pro. It's probably a software glitch. Make sure you manually set memory timing and voltage per spec.

 

[RocKKer]

Wow SerpentRoyal!!! on my way now - I'll follow your steps in op. Looks like the 9 multi was the magic. I'm at 3555 (395 X 9). I'm doing the stability tests now.


Thanks for the help!!

 

[batmanwcm]

C1E & EIST are good functions for those of us using higher vcore. I have my vcore set at 1.59v (1.536v after vdroop) to achieve a 3.6ghz OC (63c max load) and would rather it run at a lower clock speed and lower vcore when my PC is not doing anything cpu intensive.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: RocKKer
Wow SerpentRoyal!!! on my way now - I'll follow your steps in op. Looks like the 9 multi was the magic. I'm at 3555 (395 X 9). I'm doing the stability tests now.


Thanks for the help!!

We may have a new forum record on an overclocked E2xx0. It's probably just as fast as my E4300 @ 3.47GHz. There's a tread on overclocking E2xx0 and E4xx0. Drop by to post your result.

 

[RocKKer]

While not a record - I am happy!

Finals:
E2180 Q712A452 @ 3.33GHz
9x370
1.4V
Abit IP35 v13 bios
AC Freezer 7 pro AS5
Crucial Ballistix (2 x 1 GB) 1:1.20 DDR2 900 MHz 5-5-5-15 2.10v

Posted on the overclocking E2xx0 and E4xx0 thread.

May have to invest in better CPU cooler - 65c under stress load.

Thanks for your direction SerpentRoyal!!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

65C is nothing for those chips. You should be able to run at 1.46V at 72C. Mine can hit 75C in 85F room (Orthos and S&M's heat mode). Remember that no conventional program will ever load your CPU like Orthos or S&M's heat. Real world load is probably around 60 to 65C.

Don't torture your chip by running Orthos for days. There are many other factors that could result in PC instability. 1 hour Orthos is fine. Use the PC and only back-off the FSB by 3MHz if you enconter stability issues. If the PC passed Memtest86 test#5 (50 loops), then you're set.

You may be able to run the Crucial at 450MHz/4-4-4-12-2T/2.1 or 2.2V.

 

[ArchAngel777]

Ok, I ordered two new items today on NewEgg and chose 2 day shipping. So, on Wednesday I will testing out my new Thermalright SI-128 SE with a Silverstone 110CFM 120mm fan. I will be sure to test it against my Tuniq and compare the temperatures between both of of these coolers.

In some ways, the Tuniq Tower might actually be a superior unit when it comes to other motherboards. But the way this IP35-E is setup, I don't think the Tuniq Tower does the job it needs too. It will be interesting to see the results.

 

[Mucker]

Hey Arch,

Your P180 has a rear and top fan. Have you ever thought of reversing the rear fan and making a duct to blow onto the MOFSET sink? I did just that with my Antec 900. The result was a 20C drop of the PWM. The system temp was not affected at all (because of the top fan)

Here is what I did: http://members.cox.net/mucker/DuctMOD.jpg

 

[ArchAngel777]

Originally posted by: Mucker
Hey Arch,

Your P180 has a rear and top fan. Have you ever thought of reversing the rear fan and making a duct to blow onto the MOFSET sink? I did just that with my Antec 900. The result was a 20C drop of the PWM. The system temp was not affected at all (because of the top fan)

Here is what I did: http://members.cox.net/mucker/DuctMOD.jpg

Yes, it did drop PWM temps, but it raised them eventually because the hot air became stuck in the case. So initially it tested out really well, but after about 30 minutes of prime, case temp went from 30c to 38c and in turn raised the core and pwm temps.

Also, I have my tower sitting in a cabinet with the back completely open. So exhausing the air out the front really isn't an option. I could also run my case outside of the cabinet and drop the temps a few C accross the board, but then I hear the noise. So, I am probably making it more difficult on myself, but those are pretty much the restrictions I need to live by. I also have a little toddler that likes to get into things... So, I close the door to the cabinet (it opens freely) and then lock the front bezel on my P180B. That is one main reason I bought it. I didn't want me to son to run up and start pushing buttons to turn it off.

On a side note, a friend of mine wants me to test hit E6750 and I will be testing that tonight. A 65TDP Versus 130TDP... I would imagine that both the PWM And CPU should run at least 10c cooler at the same speed (400x8). In a way, I am glad to help him test his CPU, because then I can test to see if it just my quad that is running hot, or if it is something else.

Edit ** on a side note, I am actually pretty confident that based on my setup, my new HeatSink + Fan is going to do the trip. Of course, not that I said that, I just jynxed myself and will be dissapointed. But anyway, just understanding air flow (I am no expert, but I think I have a decent understanding) it seems to be that the a down draft cooler is best, especially with two rear exhaust fans on high. But hey, who knows...

 

[Mucker]

wow, that is surprising, my system temps don't budge at all no matter how long it runs. Maybe because the 200m fan atop of the 900???

I use a Thermalright Ultra-120 on the cpu oriented so that it exhausts directly into the 200mm fan.

I don't monitor temps frequently anymore, simply no need to....

 

[SerpentRoyal]

You need airflow across the case (control volume) to lower component temps. If the hot air is "stuck" inside the case, then no CPU cooler will be able to meet your expectations. You have created a little convection oven in that case.

You would see worse PWM temp if you have a heat pipe cooler linking the NB and MOSFET. The extra heat from NB will elevate the PWM temp.

Take the board out of the case. Put the board in a 75F room an run any stress test. You'll see an instant 10C drop in temperature, across the board.

Been doing aerothermal stuffs for many moons. You cannot cheat the basic laws of heat transfer and thermodynamics.

 

[ArchAngel777]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
You need airflow across the case (control volume) to lower component temps. If the hot air is "stuck" inside the case, then no CPU cooler will be able to meet your expectations. You have created a little convection oven in that case.

You would see worse PWM temp if you have a heat pipe cooler linking the NB and MOSFET. The extra heat from NB will elevate the PWM temp.

Take the board out of the case. Put the board in a 75F room an run any stress test. You'll see an instant 10C drop in temperature, across the board.

Been doing aerothermal stuffs for many moons. You cannot cheat the basic laws of heat transfer and thermodynamics.

Not sure if you are talking to me or not, but anyway I was describing what would happen if I reversed fan flow. Currently, the temperature is stable (just warm). When I reverse fan flow, it cooks itself and the heat is trapped. The way I have it now is just fine, it just is hot.

I have two intakes on the front, two exhaust. This setup should be fine. With my new cooler, it should take the intake air and force it on the motherboard and the hot air should shoot our towards the top and top back exhaust fans, which it does. The only problem with my current setup is that the NB has no active cooling (something many do) and no real direct air flow on the case itself. I am not apposed to drilling some holes in the side of my case and mounting a fan, but I am not going to jump into it for a 1-2 drop in C temps.

Also, keep in mind that I have ran the CPU with the case open and a fan blowing on it. While it did cooler it down a few C, it wasn't going to change my 75C load temps into 60C. It dropped them a notch or two, same with PWM.

Again, a lot of this has to do with my ambient temps being high, they will be lowered shortly, though. And the volume control you speak of is a catch 22. If you just lower the fans so that you can tolerate it being ran outsive the cove, then you lower cooling back to where you were at in the first place, except now you have it outside the cove, rather than inside.

Additionally, I do work on XEON servers from time and time and have viewed their wind tunnels and have a pretty good idea on what goes on.

If people can claim load times of 66c on a Q6600 in 100F ambient temps, they are either lieing or something is adversely wrong with my chip.

But again, this is the internet and my friend just talked about this today. We noticed all these people on Newegg and stuff are claiming these ridiculously low idle times and my guess is that they are using Speedfan and are not reporting the true core speed.

Hell, even myself running on BIOS 10 thought I was running cooler than I really was (15c)... So, I wonder how many others believe they are 15C lower and run around spreading it? According to speed fan, I idle at 33c and load at 55c... Sounds right in line with a lot of people, but load coretemp and it is a diffrent story. It is 48 idle and 70+ load temps.

Whatever the case, I won't loose sleep over it.

 

[Mucker]

What are your voltages? (all of them from the bios)

Can you orient your Tuniq to blow upward toward the top fan?

Today my ambient room temp is 79F (Vegas) and max temp Orthos is 65C cpu (coretemp) and 63C PWM (if needed to compare)

The bios voltages are all 1 notch above default except for cpu (1.440) and ram (2.10).

You don't look too bad off. My temps improved greatly when I switched from my P180 to the 900.

 

[ArchAngel777]

Originally posted by: Mucker
What are your voltages? (all of them from the bios)

Can you orient your Tuniq to blow upward toward the top fan?

Today my ambient room temp is 79F (Vegas) and max temp Orthos is 65C cpu (coretemp) and 63C PWM (if needed to compare)

The bios voltages are all 1 notch above default except for cpu (1.440) and ram (2.10).

You don't look too bad off. My temps improved greatly when I switched from my P180 to the 900.

Unfortunately the Tuniq Tower can only me mounted left or right... So I currently have it facing the rear exhaust fan (which is about 1 inch from the Tunig). So the Tuniq gets directly shot outside the case.

My voltages are 1.34 (actual), under load they drop to 1.28v. My ram is at 2.05 because I have 4 sticks and I noticed that the system was unable no matter what timings I used when at default 1.8v. I heard this has more to do with running 4 sticks of ram rather than the ram itself.

I didn't like the looks of the Antec 900, but trust me, after this experience I am wishing I would have... It sounds like it is a perfect wind tunnel...

 

[Mucker]

Yeah, the 900 isn't for everyone, although I really like it. Nothing I've had prior holds a candle to it for cooling.

Too bad about the Tuniq, although feeding it directly out the back is a good thing.

I am surprised with your relatively low voltage that the temps are that high. What MHz are you running the cpu? Is your chip a B3 or G0?

Your ram (like mine) is good. D9 can crave voltage, it is not uncommon to need 2.20v. I can push my 4 sticks to 972 MHz @ 5-5-5-15-30 @ 2.00v or 850 MHz @ 4-4-4-12-24 @ 2.20. Good stuff.

 

[SilentAssassin]

It's gotta be either that your Tuniq needs lapping or you got a bad CPU. You said even with the side panel off and a fan blowing temps barely dropped at all so there's not much you can do except lap the heatsink, try a different heatsink, or rma the cpu.

 

[ArchAngel777]

I hate double posting, but I am going to post this here for others to read so they don't have to link to another thread with the same exact post (received complaints, but didn't want to violate the rules) Anyway, here is the post!

I decided to test my friends E6750 because he wasn't sure if his motherboard was bad or if the chip was bad. Being that I just built my new C2Q rig and am having heat problems, I welcomed the idea as it would help me diagnose if I am simply doing something wrong, or if my Q6600 simple runs to damn hot.

Both tests were done in 23c room temperature, ran P95 mixed mode and temperatures were taken at 10 minutes into the test.

Q6600 @ 3.2Ghz (400x8 1.312v) Hottest CPU Core = 80c, PWM = 77c PIC

E6750 @ 3.6Ghz (450x8 1.46vv) Hottest CPU Core = 56c, PWM = 54c PIC

Tested with Tuniq Tower 120 - Fan on high. 4 Antec case fans on high.

So, the question is, does my Q6600 run abnormally hot? From the looks of it and doing the math, the answer would be 'No'. However, with people posting reports of 55c load temps on air, I really have to question that validity of those claims. Not because it isn't possible, but it just seems to me that if someone can run their Q6600 @ 3.2Ghz at 55c load, then it would stand to reason you can run your E6750 @ 30c load... Now, I never heard of that... In AT's test of their heat sinks they don't even test full load like Orthos/P95, they run like FarCry looped or something and their numbers are far from 30c on 'load'. So, I dunno guys, what do you think? Are people exaggerating their idle and load times? Or are people misreporting them innocently? Before I update the BIOS on my motherboard, the temps were 15c lower accross the board (they were reporting Tcase, or some BS like that) and truly thought my Q6600 was running great... I flashed BIOS and noticed that SOB was running far hotter than I thought. So, I wonder if a lot of people just think their temps are lower than they are.

Also, what is the wattage these things output? All things being equal (3.2, same voltage) I would expect a quad to have double the heat. However, the C2D runs higher voltage and clock speed, which increases its thermal output. It seems to be in the scenario I tested above that the E6750 = 125ish watts or so heat, and the Q6600 = 175ish watts... Just a guestimate!

Edit ** I am considering one of those things if my temps are still too high when I receive my new Thermalright SI-128 SE. I am either going to RMA my chip for a replacement, or I am going to lap it. I almost lapped it tonight, but I figured I better not rush something like that. I don't want to regret it. Hell, I am almost tempted to buy my friends E6750 and just ditch this Q6600. Runs too damn hot and before Aigo comes in and says I told ya so! I just gotta say, yeah, you were right... Water cooling does not look so bad afterall

 

[harbin]

Originally posted by: ArchAngel777

Originally posted by: Mucker
What are your voltages? (all of them from the bios)

Can you orient your Tuniq to blow upward toward the top fan?

Today my ambient room temp is 79F (Vegas) and max temp Orthos is 65C cpu (coretemp) and 63C PWM (if needed to compare)

The bios voltages are all 1 notch above default except for cpu (1.440) and ram (2.10).

You don't look too bad off. My temps improved greatly when I switched from my P180 to the 900.

Unfortunately the Tuniq Tower can only me mounted left or right... So I currently have it facing the rear exhaust fan (which is about 1 inch from the Tunig). So the Tuniq gets directly shot outside the case.

My voltages are 1.34 (actual), under load they drop to 1.28v. My ram is at 2.05 because I have 4 sticks and I noticed that the system was unable no matter what timings I used when at default 1.8v. I heard this has more to do with running 4 sticks of ram rather than the ram itself.

I didn't like the looks of the Antec 900, but trust me, after this experience I am wishing I would have... It sounds like it is a perfect wind tunnel...

Can Tuniq 120 heatsink fan be placed toward I/O plate? I thought it would be better if one can do this than toward power supply. Am I right about this?

 

[ArchAngel777]

Originally posted by: harbin

Can Tuniq 120 heatsink fan be placed toward I/O plate? I thought it would be better if one can do this than toward power supply. Am I right about this?

That is where I have it mounted and how it works. It can either blow back or forward and cannot blow up or down. The PSU in the Antex P180B is way at the bottom in its own chamber.