Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[BuckNaked]

A couple of pages back, I was talking about having boot issues... I have been running the board fine for more than a month... I noticed all of a sudden that it was taking longer for it to post, sometimes requiring me to power it off, and then power it back on. Sometimes I would have to leave the unit powered on for 15-30 minutes before it posted.

I was thinking that it was either a power supply going bad, or maybe a bad board. the other day I powered it on, and it booted right up. I was trying to think of what the issue was when I realized the issue arrived about the same time we began to have much cooler weather here. I don't leave my heat on when I am gone, and my apartment can get pretty cool. The other day when it booted right up, the ambient temperature had warmed up considerably. I was wondering if temp could have been a factor for the past couple of days, and then I see the post above...

Anyone else have boot issues in relation to a cold tempature?

eta:

Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
get this--if you heat the motherboard up with a hair dryer --it will post when warmed . how weird is that ??


-- no OKZ ram here --just kingston ,corsair with pro-mos, -corsair with micron. crucial 800, and super talent with micron chips , they all seem to run fine on the good MB--when it will get past post . the "bad" one would post but was unstable with any combination or parts or settings . i also think it had the no-post below 63f problem--but since it was so unstable you couldn't load windows without a BSOD --the no post below 63f thing wasn't noticed with it .

What is the no post below 63f thing and have you seen any posts about it anywhere else?

Found some info here... http://www.houseofhelp.com/for...showthread.php?t=64055

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Some boards may contain a "marginal" transistor that will not operate proper below 63F. When this region of the MB is heated, PC will boot. I cannot confirm this since my five IP35-Es are okay.

I would put the PC in the garage overnight so the temperature will fall below 60F. If the PC will not POST in the morning, then try another PSU (non-Seasonic, Corsair, or TP Trio) if possible. Repair is convered under warranty. I would request cross-shipment.

Also note that this problem may be a by-product of IP35 and some Seasonic PSUs. There are many confirmed reports about failure to POST with IP35 and Seasonic/Corsair/Antec TP Trio. I have TP Trio 430 and TP Trio 550 (version A2). Both work fine with my IP35-Es below 60F.

 

[BuckNaked]

Its been an ongoing issue for about 2 weeks now... If its cold and I reboot after the pc has been running it will boot right up, and it booted up normally a day or two ago when the temps had warmed up considerably... I am looking into the issue and posted a link above to others suffering from the same apparent issue.

 

[BuckNaked]

Bigblockchevy,
Are you running a Seasonic or Seasonic built power supply?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: BuckNaked
Its been an ongoing issue for about 2 weeks now... If its cold and I reboot after the pc has been running it will boot right up, and it booted up normally a day or two ago when the temps had warmed up considerably... I am looking into the issue and posted a link above to others suffering from the same apparent issue.

I believe the problem has a temperature component. If you don't have a Seasonic, Corsair, or TruePower Trio PSU, then you should focus on the MB.

Put the PSU and MB on a non-conductive surface in the garage where the overnight temp will drop below 60F. If board boots, then it may be okay. If the board will not boot, then retest the next day by heating up the MB with a hair dryer before you start the board. Make sure that you don't heat up the PSU during the process.

 

[TungFree]

I would zero fill the 500GB drive now and repartition it. Use extended logical partition for storing data and primary active partition C for the OS. Make an image file after you've clean installed windows. Load Intel chipset. Reboot. Load sound. Reboot. Load LAN. Reboot. Make another image file. Now you can play around with your OS.

Raptor not here yet.

I zero filled the 500gig Samsung from a floppy, with Samsung software..
I disconnected all but the DVD drive and Samsung and tried to instal the XP os. when it reaches the booting with OS and asks to hit enter to install XP on the Samsung, when I hit return it shuts off power and quits. I tried this 5 times and each time the power shuts off. So I reset the CMOS by changing the pins and restoring it a few minutes later and it does the same shut off of power, if I try to reset the computer from a warm boot it makes English police type sound be bop be bop be bop untill I shut the power off. if I restart cold boot the sound stops but I still crash the power before the OS can be installed. Every warm reboot ( control-alt-Del) the Be Bop Be Bop Be Bop starts. shutting off and starting cold is fine.

I never in my life had so much trouble with one computer.
A new aluminum case a new Power supply and new coper super CPU cooler a new CPU a new Hard drive.... a new Motherboard New ram. I am at a loss maybe the Raptor will come and change this but that power quitting is not from any OS.
Formerly the power had quit while flashing the Bios and when only a floppy disk was left it worked fine. I need the DVD player and the Samsung Hard drive ( disconnected the floppy) so nothing to disconnect anymore.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Can you list all your components in your profile so we can quickly check for problem? Are you sure that you don't have a short in the case? Can you flash to 14 BIOS with the WB switch? Load windows with the MB on a non-conductive surface outside the case. I agree that installing windows should not be this difficult. Are you sure the RAMs, CPU, GPU, and all connectors/cards are fully seated? Siren sound is usually related to unseated RAMs.

 

[Heidfirst]

the hi lo siren noise is usually either a fan rpm, temp or voltage out of the set warning parameters.
As SerpentRoyal says you need to list your components.
Are you sure that your HSF is properly fitted (imo the Intel retention design is poor & it's not unusual for people to not get it right - it takes significant pressure)?
Is your RAM at the correct voltage recommended by the manufacturer?

 

[MadScientist]

Originally posted by: brencat

@MadSci - Forgot to ask what Bios are you running? I'm on 14 Beta 05. Reason I ask is that this beta still does the double-post whenever you change RAM timings or divider, but doesn't double-post when changing anything else. This probably means Abit has manipulated the strap settings to fix double-post -- I don't know, frankly I don't have the technical knowledge here. But I wonder if this fix could also impact timings when all 4 slots are filled. Anyway, just speculation right now. If I start having probs testing at 4-4-4-12, I may go back to Bios 12 and redo the tests.
Please be patient...I work 14hrs/day and do my OCing/testing overnight so it may take me a while
[/quote]

Brencat,
I started tinkering with my system using my 7600 GT. I don't know when my MSI 8800 GT from Dell will be in. There's a big thread in Hotdeals on it. First flashed the bios to the official 14 bios. This bios still double posts when you make a bios change.
I like to use Zebo's approach to overclocking of isolating and then consolidating, Quick and Dirty A64 OC Guide. The same approach works as well for Intel CPUs. Since I don't plan on going higher than a 400 FSB, and I'm certain this MB can do that easily, I started overclocking the CPU. To take the ram out of the equation I kept it below 800, 5-5-5-15-2T at 2.2V, which I know is stable. I used Coretemp 0.95.4, hacked to work with Vista 64, to monitor temps, Prime95 25.5 (gets all 4 cores) Small FFTs, and CPUZ V1.7. The temps are the average of the 4 core temps. I have one core that is about 5 degrees cooler than the other cores at idle, 3 degrees at load. I reseated the HS 3 times and got the same temps. The Thermalright Bolt-Thru Kit I used provides adequate and even pressure, much better than those cheap plastic push pins. The AS5 looked evenly applied. I checked the flatness of the bottom of the HS and the CPU with a high quality machinist's rule and they were flat. It could be just the way the IHS sits on the cores. I don't plan on lapping the CPU or HS. The ambient room temp was 21 C. Disabled C1E and EIST for now. Due to time constraints, I ran Prime95 at each setting for only 3 hours. Vdroop was ~0.04V. When and if I get the 8800 GT, which runs hotter than my 7600 GT, I will run Prime95 for 8 hours at each setting. The CPU temps may be slightly higher.
Highest stable oc at stock voltage:
CPU Speed---FSB-----Bios V----CPUZ V(idle)---CPUZ V(load)---Temp(idle)---Temp(load)
3.285 Ghz----365----1.2375------1.192-------------1.152------------29 C----------44 C
Temps remained stable after about 1 hour.
3.510 Ghz----390----1.3175------1.272-------------1.240------------32 C----------52 C
3.600 Ghz----400----1.3575------1.312-------------1.272------------34 C----------58 C

Temps are not bad for a cheap $0.99 AR HS + $3.95 Bolt-thru kit. I think the Antec 900 case fans (set at mid range), especially the monster fan on top, and the low ambient temp, contributed the most to the temps.

I checked the ram again with the CPU at stock at 4-4-4-12-2T and 2.2V and it failed Memtest86+ V1.7, test 5. This board slighly overclocks the CPU at default to 272 FSB so the ram runs at 816. When I set the FSB to 266 (CPU's stock speed) and 798 ram, the ram passed Memtest86+. When I set the FSB to 333 to get exactly 800 for the ram, the ram again failed Memtest86+. When I used only 2 GB of either set it passes Memtest86+ at these settings. Finicky ram, or this MB doesn't like 4 x 1 GB Ballistix.
To isolate the ram to see what it was capable of I set the CPU multiplier to 6 to take the CPU out of the equation. I looped Memtest86+ test 5 for 1 hour and test 8 for 1 hour, then ran all tests for 5 passes. You can divide the frequency by 2 if you like that number better.
Passed Memtest86+
Frequency----Timings--------Voltage
798 Mhz----4-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
1018 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
976 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.1
924 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.0

Amazing what changing just 1 number will do. Brencat you will probably get different results since you only have 3 GB ram.


Q6600 GO stepping
Geforce 7600 GT
4 x 1 GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400 DDR2-800
Vista Ultimate 64
2 x Maxtor 300 GB SATA HDs
Samsung SH-S203B SATA DVD Burner
Corsair 620W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper TX2 HS/fan
Antec 900 case

 

[vlabayog]

what key to press to select boot device?

 

[Heidfirst]

Del to enter BIOS - there is no boot menu.

 

[UJ09]

I just bought IP35-E 2 days ago, and I'm wondering that is there something wrong with this board. I flashed it to official 14 bias, but I'm having a hard time to o/c it. When I changed the FSB(especially >350 FSB), saved and exit bios, the next thing happened was that it'll keep on shut down and reboot, not double post, it's non-stop shut down and reboot. I shut down the PC by pressing switch off button behind the PSU(Sliverstone 560W), then switch it on again and reboot, but either it's no post or giving a long 3+sec long beep sound. I switched off the PSU and reboot again, then finally it boot, I can even boot into windows and do Prime95, but everytime when I try to adjust the FSB or multi, same thing happens all over again.

But the worst thing is that even when I run it at default setting(no overclocking, all set to default in bios), sometimes it'll restart itself, I suppected it's the CoreTemp problem coz when I run it very high chance this problem will happen. And the last annoying thing abt this board is that it can't boot Win98 boot disk, somehow it can boot Winxp boot disk. When I tried to install Winxp from dos, it'll somehow stop at the "Windows is copying the files to your harddisk" part, it just stop at there forever. In order to finish the installation I have to load the 1st installation part with other PC, then when it's finished and going to restart the PC for second stage of installation, the I just took the harddisk back from the other PC and finished the rest installation.

So is this board spoilt? And here's the spec for my PC.

E2180
IP35-E
2GB Crucial Ballistix 6400
Silverston 560W PSU
7900 GT

 

[WEW]

I'm having a problem with my comptuer - I noticed it yesterday - dont know if tis becz of bios 14 -- but my wireless keyboard/mouse dont get power once they are in windows - it boots up with power - etc. but once windows start - my mouse/keybord dont work - i notice the wireless receivers light aren't green - i tried switching ports - etc. same problem.

any ideas?

the brand is logitech.

thanks

 

[MadScientist]

Originally posted by: WEW
I'm having a problem with my comptuer - I noticed it yesterday - dont know if tis becz of bios 14 -- but my wireless keyboard/mouse dont get power once they are in windows - it boots up with power - etc. but once windows start - my mouse/keybord dont work - i notice the wireless receivers light aren't green - i tried switching ports - etc. same problem.

any ideas?

the brand is logitech.

thanks

I have a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse, the MX700 set. After I flashed to bios 14 I don't have any problems with them working. I think in bios 14 the default for USB Keyboard Support was changed from OS to Bios. Which was ok for me because I had to switch it to Bios before to get my keyboard to work in Memtest86. You can try changing it to support by OS in the bios and see if that helps. It's under Integrated Peripherals-On chip PCI Device-USB Device Setting. If that doesn't work try reconnecting your mouse and keyboard to the wireless receiver by the connect buttons on the bottom of the mouse, keyboard, and on the front of the receiver. Check your Logitech manual on the the correct connect sequence.

Forgot to ask the obvious. Is your receiver plugged in and getting power? Did you check that the power plug is plugged into the receiver's usb plug?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: UJ09
I just bought IP35-E 2 days ago, and I'm wondering that is there something wrong with this board. I flashed it to official 14 bias, but I'm having a hard time to o/c it. When I changed the FSB(especially >350 FSB), saved and exit bios, the next thing happened was that it'll keep on shut down and reboot, not double post, it's non-stop shut down and reboot. I shut down the PC by pressing switch off button behind the PSU(Sliverstone 560W), then switch it on again and reboot, but either it's no post or giving a long 3+sec long beep sound. I switched off the PSU and reboot again, then finally it boot, I can even boot into windows and do Prime95, but everytime when I try to adjust the FSB or multi, same thing happens all over again.

But the worst thing is that even when I run it at default setting(no overclocking, all set to default in bios), sometimes it'll restart itself, I suppected it's the CoreTemp problem coz when I run it very high chance this problem will happen. And the last annoying thing abt this board is that it can't boot Win98 boot disk, somehow it can boot Winxp boot disk. When I tried to install Winxp from dos, it'll somehow stop at the "Windows is copying the files to your harddisk" part, it just stop at there forever. In order to finish the installation I have to load the 1st installation part with other PC, then when it's finished and going to restart the PC for second stage of installation, the I just took the harddisk back from the other PC and finished the rest installation.

So is this board spoilt? And here's the spec for my PC.

E2180
IP35-E
2GB Crucial Ballistix 6400
Silverston 560W PSU
7900 GT

Shut down MB and pull plug from PSU. Remove battery. Clear CMOS. Wait 1/2 hour before replacing CMOS and battery. Boot into BIOS and manually adjust RAM voltage to 2.1 and timing to 5-5-5-15-2T. Change memory divider to 1:1. Reboot into windows. Use CPUz to confirm that FSB speed = RAM speed. Now you can change the FSB.

350MHz FSB is 3.5GHz core speed. That's probably at or above the stable limit of the CPU. Use Orthos to check CPU stability. Lower FSB or raise Vcore as required. Set Vcore to 1.465 and start out with 310MHz FSB. Run Orthos large mode for 10 min. If okay, then raise FSB by 5MHz. Chip should top out between 3.2 and 3.4GHz.

P35 chipset doesns't work with W98!

Zero fill the HDD and load the WXP CD. Windows should install if you had a good CD from Microsoft.

 

[Thund3rb1rd]

is there a way to know if an orthos failure is due to cpu or ram?
other than running memtest
just wanting to know if it will do any good to bump up my vdimm when orthos fails, cuz memtest takes so long to run test 5

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: MadScientist
I checked the ram again with the CPU at stock at 4-4-4-12-2T and 2.2V and it failed Memtest86+ V1.7, test 5. This board slighly overclocks the CPU at default to 272 FSB so the ram runs at 816. When I set the FSB to 266 (CPU's stock speed) and 798 ram, the ram passed Memtest86+. When I set the FSB to 333 to get exactly 800 for the ram, the ram again failed Memtest86+. When I used only 2 GB of either set it passes Memtest86+ at these settings. Finicky ram, or this MB doesn't like 4 x 1 GB Ballistix.
To isolate the ram to see what it was capable of I set the CPU multiplier to 6 to take the CPU out of the equation. I looped Memtest86+ test 5 for 1 hour and test 8 for 1 hour, then ran all tests for 5 passes. You can divide the frequency by 2 if you like that number better.
Passed Memtest86+
Frequency----Timings--------Voltage
798 Mhz----4-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
1018 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
976 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.1
924 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.0

Amazing what changing just 1 number will do. Brencat you will probably get different results since you only have 3 GB ram.

Hi MadSci. Okay, here's what I got so far for dividers. My CPU overclock is set at 3.25ghz (325 FSB x 10) so all RAM OC references will be based on 325 FSB. All settings use 2T command rate btw.

First the good:
1:1 (synced @ 325) passes 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-12 @ 1.9v
1:1.2 (390mhz RAM speed) passes memtest 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-12 @ 2.0v
1:1.25 (406mhz RAM speed) also passes memtest 4-4-4-12 @ 2.0v
1:1.5 (488mhz RAM speed) passes memtest 5-5-5-15 @ 2.0v

1:1 = 21 sec SuperPi 1M (avg of 5, throw out hi & low) @ 5-5-5-15
1:1.2 = 20.56 sec SP1M @ 5-5-5-15
1:1.2 = 19.46 sec SP1M @ 4-4-4-12 (full second better with CAS4); 3DM06 @ 10781
1:1.25 = 19.25 sec SP1M @ 4-4-4-12 (even better); 3DM06 @ 10826
1:1.5 @ 5-5-5-15 = Currently benching; will report SP1M & 3DMark later

Now the bad:
1:1.2 @ 3-3-3-9 timings @ 2.2v = POST but no windows. Ditto with 2 bumps in MCH/ICH
1:1.2 @ 3-4-3-9 timings @ 2.2v = POST but no windows. (Same sitch)

So, I most definitely can run 4-4-4-12 with all 4 slots filled and best setting so far has been the 1:1.25 divider in terms of system feeling peppy and benching the best. I haven't given up on CAS3 yet and still need to try it at 1:1 (which amazingly I overlooked).

I also started a thread in the System Memory section entitled "Tightest Timings/Best Divider on IP35-E". There are some guys there that responded that really know their sh*t and I picked up some helpful tips for my upcoming tests. The bottom line is that there are many combinations of timings and FSB speeds at different CAS that will get your PC running optimally. It just depends on how much tweaking you feel like doing. I will update this again after some more tests.

B

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
is there a way to know if an orthos failure is due to cpu or ram?
other than running memtest
just wanting to know if it will do any good to bump up my vdimm when orthos fails, cuz memtest takes so long to run test 5

You've got to do it one at a time or you'll lose track of where the weak spots are, like now.

Do the CPU OC first and get that stable, then the RAM OC afterward.

Go into Bios, under Softmenu and set FSB: DRAM ratio to 1:1. Also set DDR2 voltage to 2.0v. Then go under Advanced Chipset Features and set the first 4 timings to 5-5-5-15, and the Command Rate further down the list to "2T" (rather than leaving it at Auto). Auto for everything else is okay.

Now your timings are loose and RAM should be stable (unless defective) allowing you to focus all your efforts on CPU OCing. Just to be sure, run memtest at this point with CPU @ stock speed & stock volts. Then run Orthos for at least 3 hrs. If okay, then start your FSB clocking, etc etc.

 

[TungFree]

SerpentRoyal:
Can you list all your components in your profile so we can quickly check for problem? Are you sure that you don't have a short in the case? Can you flash to 14 BIOS with the WB switch? Load windows with the MB on a non-conductive surface outside the case. I agree that installing windows should not be this difficult. Are you sure the RAMs, CPU, GPU, and all connectors/cards are fully seated? Siren sound is usually related to unseated RAMs.

Ok I did the signiture as you asked, but cannot find the Kingston ram details which you recommended.

Raptor still has not arrived. I am teacher and had no time so far to do any of what you had asked above. It is 3 am here too early to do things in the dark will look for any additional comments on your reaction to my rig list.

 

[UJ09]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: UJ09
I just bought IP35-E 2 days ago, and I'm wondering that is there something wrong with this board. I flashed it to official 14 bias, but I'm having a hard time to o/c it. When I changed the FSB(especially >350 FSB), saved and exit bios, the next thing happened was that it'll keep on shut down and reboot, not double post, it's non-stop shut down and reboot. I shut down the PC by pressing switch off button behind the PSU(Sliverstone 560W), then switch it on again and reboot, but either it's no post or giving a long 3+sec long beep sound. I switched off the PSU and reboot again, then finally it boot, I can even boot into windows and do Prime95, but everytime when I try to adjust the FSB or multi, same thing happens all over again.

But the worst thing is that even when I run it at default setting(no overclocking, all set to default in bios), sometimes it'll restart itself, I suppected it's the CoreTemp problem coz when I run it very high chance this problem will happen. And the last annoying thing abt this board is that it can't boot Win98 boot disk, somehow it can boot Winxp boot disk. When I tried to install Winxp from dos, it'll somehow stop at the "Windows is copying the files to your harddisk" part, it just stop at there forever. In order to finish the installation I have to load the 1st installation part with other PC, then when it's finished and going to restart the PC for second stage of installation, the I just took the harddisk back from the other PC and finished the rest installation.

So is this board spoilt? And here's the spec for my PC.

E2180
IP35-E
2GB Crucial Ballistix 6400
Silverston 560W PSU
7900 GT

Shut down MB and pull plug from PSU. Remove battery. Clear CMOS. Wait 1/2 hour before replacing CMOS and battery. Boot into BIOS and manually adjust RAM voltage to 2.1 and timing to 5-5-5-15-2T. Change memory divider to 1:1. Reboot into windows. Use CPUz to confirm that FSB speed = RAM speed. Now you can change the FSB.

350MHz FSB is 3.5GHz core speed. That's probably at or above the stable limit of the CPU. Use Orthos to check CPU stability. Lower FSB or raise Vcore as required. Set Vcore to 1.465 and start out with 310MHz FSB. Run Orthos large mode for 10 min. If okay, then raise FSB by 5MHz. Chip should top out between 3.2 and 3.4GHz.

P35 chipset doesns't work with W98!

Zero fill the HDD and load the WXP CD. Windows should install if you had a good CD from Microsoft.

Serpent plz read careful abt my post, I'm not asking abt o/cing, I want to know why there're some many problems with this board. This board pretty much is one of the worst board that I ever have if it's not faulty, run CoreTemp will cause reboot randomly even in default clock and setting, I just made a clean install again and problems still remained. Let's alone the annoying o/c problems and etc.

I might try other bios before RMA this board, any other good bios instead of official 14 bios?

 

[Thund3rb1rd]

Originally posted by: brencat
Go into Bios, under Softmenu and set FSB: DRAM ratio to 1:1. Also set DDR2 voltage to 2.0v. Then go under Advanced Chipset Features and set the first 4 timings to 5-5-5-15, and the Command Rate further down the list to "2T" (rather than leaving it at Auto). Auto for everything else is okay.

i did loosen my timings, but I didn't overvolt them

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: brencat

Originally posted by: MadScientist
I checked the ram again with the CPU at stock at 4-4-4-12-2T and 2.2V and it failed Memtest86+ V1.7, test 5. This board slighly overclocks the CPU at default to 272 FSB so the ram runs at 816. When I set the FSB to 266 (CPU's stock speed) and 798 ram, the ram passed Memtest86+. When I set the FSB to 333 to get exactly 800 for the ram, the ram again failed Memtest86+. When I used only 2 GB of either set it passes Memtest86+ at these settings. Finicky ram, or this MB doesn't like 4 x 1 GB Ballistix.
To isolate the ram to see what it was capable of I set the CPU multiplier to 6 to take the CPU out of the equation. I looped Memtest86+ test 5 for 1 hour and test 8 for 1 hour, then ran all tests for 5 passes. You can divide the frequency by 2 if you like that number better.
Passed Memtest86+
Frequency----Timings--------Voltage
798 Mhz----4-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
1018 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.2
976 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.1
924 Mhz----5-4-4-12-2T-------2.0

Amazing what changing just 1 number will do. Brencat you will probably get different results since you only have 3 GB ram.

Hi MadSci. Okay, here's what I got so far for dividers. My CPU overclock is set at 3.25ghz (325 FSB x 10) so all RAM OC references will be based on 325 FSB. All settings use 2T command rate btw.

First the good:
1:1 (synced @ 325) passes 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-12 @ 1.9v
1:1.2 (390mhz RAM speed) passes memtest 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-12 @ 2.0v
1:1.25 (406mhz RAM speed) also passes memtest 4-4-4-12 @ 2.0v
1:1.5 (488mhz RAM speed) passes memtest 5-5-5-15 @ 2.0v

1:1 = 21 sec SuperPi 1M (avg of 5, throw out hi & low) @ 5-5-5-15
1:1.2 = 20.56 sec SP1M @ 5-5-5-15
1:1.2 = 19.46 sec SP1M @ 4-4-4-12 (full second better with CAS4); 3DM06 @ 10781
1:1.25 = 19.25 sec SP1M @ 4-4-4-12 (even better); 3DM06 @ 10826
1:1.5 @ 5-5-5-15 = Currently benching; will report SP1M & 3DMark later

Now the bad:
1:1.2 @ 3-3-3-9 timings @ 2.2v = POST but no windows. Ditto with 2 bumps in MCH/ICH
1:1.2 @ 3-4-3-9 timings @ 2.2v = POST but no windows. (Same sitch)

So, I most definitely can run 4-4-4-12 with all 4 slots filled and best setting so far has been the 1:1.25 divider in terms of system feeling peppy and benching the best. I haven't given up on CAS3 yet and still need to try it at 1:1 (which amazingly I overlooked).

I also started a thread in the System Memory section entitled "Tightest Timings/Best Divider on IP35-E". There are some guys there that responded that really know their sh*t and I picked up some helpful tips for my upcoming tests. The bottom line is that there are many combinations of timings and FSB speeds at different CAS that will get your PC running optimally. It just depends on how much tweaking you feel like doing. I will update this again after some more tests.

B

Sweet spot for these Intel CPUs is 450-480MHz/4-4-4-12-2T timing. Very few DDR2 800 ICs can run at 400/3-3-3-9-2T. Even at this speed, the rig will be slower than 480/4-4-4-12-2T.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: TungFree

SerpentRoyal:
Can you list all your components in your profile so we can quickly check for problem? Are you sure that you don't have a short in the case? Can you flash to 14 BIOS with the WB switch? Load windows with the MB on a non-conductive surface outside the case. I agree that installing windows should not be this difficult. Are you sure the RAMs, CPU, GPU, and all connectors/cards are fully seated? Siren sound is usually related to unseated RAMs.

Ok I did the signiture as you asked, but cannot find the Kingston ram details which you recommended.

Raptor still has not arrived. I am teacher and had no time so far to do any of what you had asked above. It is 3 am here too early to do things in the dark will look for any additional comments on your reaction to my rig list.

It's Kingston N5 1.8V DDR2 800. These are okay since you've memtested them. All the components look good.

You should put the MB on the original shipping box. Remove battery. Clear CMOS. Wait 1/2 hour before replacing battery and CMOS. Reseat both sticks of memory and GPU. Connect mouse, keyboard, optical drive, and the HDD. Connect the 24 and 8 pin plugs from the PSU. Short the two power pins on the MB's header to start. You should be able to go into the BIOS and Load Optimized Default. Hit F10 to save BIOS. Reboot two more times by shorting the two power pins on the MB's header. Now go into BIOS and set the optical drive as 1st boot, and HDD as 2nd boot. Hit F10 to save. Reboot two more times then shut down windows with the original Microsoft CD in the optical drive. Now restart the PC. Windows should load. If system is stuck at some point while loading windows, then the problem is a bad CD, bad optical drive, or corrupt data in the HDD. You can zero fill the HDD to address data corruption.

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd

Originally posted by: brencat
Go into Bios, under Softmenu and set FSB: DRAM ratio to 1:1. Also set DDR2 voltage to 2.0v. Then go under Advanced Chipset Features and set the first 4 timings to 5-5-5-15, and the Command Rate further down the list to "2T" (rather than leaving it at Auto). Auto for everything else is okay.

i did loosen my timings, but I didn't overvolt them

2.0v is not overvolting. Most RAM can handle up to 2.2v. Take RAM out of the equation by using 2.0v. Who cares if it is 0.05 or 0.1v more than you need? Get your CPU OC done first, then go back and tweak mem later.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: UJ09

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: UJ09
I just bought IP35-E 2 days ago, and I'm wondering that is there something wrong with this board. I flashed it to official 14 bias, but I'm having a hard time to o/c it. When I changed the FSB(especially >350 FSB), saved and exit bios, the next thing happened was that it'll keep on shut down and reboot, not double post, it's non-stop shut down and reboot. I shut down the PC by pressing switch off button behind the PSU(Sliverstone 560W), then switch it on again and reboot, but either it's no post or giving a long 3+sec long beep sound. I switched off the PSU and reboot again, then finally it boot, I can even boot into windows and do Prime95, but everytime when I try to adjust the FSB or multi, same thing happens all over again.

But the worst thing is that even when I run it at default setting(no overclocking, all set to default in bios), sometimes it'll restart itself, I suppected it's the CoreTemp problem coz when I run it very high chance this problem will happen. And the last annoying thing abt this board is that it can't boot Win98 boot disk, somehow it can boot Winxp boot disk. When I tried to install Winxp from dos, it'll somehow stop at the "Windows is copying the files to your harddisk" part, it just stop at there forever. In order to finish the installation I have to load the 1st installation part with other PC, then when it's finished and going to restart the PC for second stage of installation, the I just took the harddisk back from the other PC and finished the rest installation.

So is this board spoilt? And here's the spec for my PC.

E2180
IP35-E
2GB Crucial Ballistix 6400
Silverston 560W PSU
7900 GT

Shut down MB and pull plug from PSU. Remove battery. Clear CMOS. Wait 1/2 hour before replacing CMOS and battery. Boot into BIOS and manually adjust RAM voltage to 2.1 and timing to 5-5-5-15-2T. Change memory divider to 1:1. Reboot into windows. Use CPUz to confirm that FSB speed = RAM speed. Now you can change the FSB.

350MHz FSB is 3.5GHz core speed. That's probably at or above the stable limit of the CPU. Use Orthos to check CPU stability. Lower FSB or raise Vcore as required. Set Vcore to 1.465 and start out with 310MHz FSB. Run Orthos large mode for 10 min. If okay, then raise FSB by 5MHz. Chip should top out between 3.2 and 3.4GHz.

P35 chipset doesns't work with W98!

Zero fill the HDD and load the WXP CD. Windows should install if you had a good CD from Microsoft.

Serpent plz read careful abt my post, I'm not asking abt o/cing, I want to know why there're some many problems with this board. This board pretty much is one of the worst board that I ever have if it's not faulty, run CoreTemp will cause reboot randomly even in default clock and setting, I just made a clean install again and problems still remained. Let's alone the annoying o/c problems and etc.

I might try other bios before RMA this board, any other good bios instead of official 14 bios?

If you have stability issues, then follow these steps:

Put the MB on the shipping box to avoid possible case grounding.

Did you reflashed to 14 BIOS using the WB switch (see my 1st post)? Did you cleared CMOS and changed memory settings and divider per my previous post? Did you run Memtest86, test #5 for 50 loops to check RAMs?

Zero fill the HDD and clean install windows. Load the Intel chipset driver. Reboot. Load sound driver. Reboot. Load LAN driver. Reboot. It's okay to use the drivers from the CD.

Now install CPUz to confirm CPU speed, memory speed, and timing. Load Coretemp 0.95.4 an run Orthos large mode for 10 minutes. Peak core temp should not exceed 60C. Note that Coretemp may crash in windows. You can use the CPU temp in Speedfan as a substitute.

These is no issue with your overclock. You're pushing the chip to 3.5GHz. Try 3.0 to 3.2GHz.