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Abit AN-M2 HD Does not power on (fixed)

hasu

Senior member
This is a brand new board. First few times when I tried, I could boot and start Vista installation. But after copying the installation files when vista displays the "running green LED progress bar" window, the machine would restart all by itself. Machine configuration was AMD X2-3800 and 2x1GB OCZ ram on this board with Antec 430W PSU and SATA HDD and SATA DVD drive. Now when I try to power on the motherboard, it shuts down by itself within 2 to 3 seconds. I tried different memory stick and CPU but result is the same.

Anybody else experienced such a thing before?
What could be the reason for this behavior? Can there be any incompatibility between OCZ and this motherboard?

Edit: It is fixed. The main change was 2.25v for DDR2. Even the first motherboard works fine after updating the BIOS to v19 and increasing the DDR2 voltage to 2.25v. Increasing DDR voltage to 2.25 won't help with earlier BIOS (v15).
 
Have you tried clearing CMOS?
you are sure that the HSF is properly installed with an rpm sending fan connected to CPUFan header, main ATX power & ATX12V1 plugged in?

Can you build out of the case to eliminate a short (just use 1 DIMM initially)?
 
I did clear the CMOS and assembled everything outside the case. Since I can't go into the BIOS, there is no way to check if motherboard is able to sense cpu fan speed. Both ATX connectors are plugged in and even tried two different PSUs! I suspect the RAM. I will try Crucial RAM tonight.
 
Originally posted by: hasu
Since I can't go into the BIOS, there is no way to check if motherboard is able to sense cpu fan speed.
you don't need to be able to get into the BIOS to check if it has an rpm sensing fan on the CPUFan header ...

 
Originally posted by: Heidfirst
Originally posted by: hasu
Since I can't go into the BIOS, there is no way to check if motherboard is able to sense cpu fan speed.
you don't need to be able to get into the BIOS to check if it has an rpm sensing fan on the CPUFan header ...

Sure. Fan and header both are 4 pin so it must be sensing the rpm ok. Mean while I got an RMA replacement for this motherboard from Abit, but that acts exactly the same way. But all the other hardware works very well with a Biostar NF61S-AM2. I will try a new psu with this motherboard tonight. Do you think Antec 430W is not adequate?
 
what other RAM did you try? (& please use just 1 DIMM during testing)

what monitor are you using & how connected?
 
I tried another Antec 430W. Results are the same.

For memory I tried OCZ, CORSAIR and HP (CRUCIAL). I also tried with single stick of RAM and tried to increase DDR2 Voltage up to 2.0.
BTW, the monitor is Samsung 932BW. It worked fine with other motherboards. But for the heck of it I will try a different monitor tonight.

Immediately after assembling the second motherboard (from RMA), I could even complete a Vista installation. It did reset in between, I think. And the process took longer.
Whereas the first one will reset once Vista starts the installation after copying all the files and never continue the installation process.

Funny thing is that if I reset the BIOS it boots fine the first time, I can even save the BIOS settings and it can boot into Vista after that. Once I am in Vista if I restart the machine it boots just fine.
If I shut down the computer it wont start after that -- it will stay at the ABIT logo screen, after making the single beep as if it is about to start.

I tried with PS2 as well as USB keyboard/Mouse. Switched off cool 'n' Quiet. Nothing worked. Removing all SATA drives and connecting an IDE DVD Drive had no effect.

I strongly suspect inadequate PSU. But it is hard to believe that 430W is not sufficient for this system!

Edit: Monitor is connected through VGA.
 
what BIOS versions are they on?

the monitor question was in case you were using an LCD tv or trying to connect via HDMI etc. which can all complicate things sometimes.
 
BIOS in the original one was a little older (15) and the RMA replacement is the latest (19).
I tested one more motherboard. All components worked fine with both Biostar-NF61S(AM2) and ECS-AMD690-GM-M2.

I will compare the two AN-M2HD's once again and will call ABIT and explain the situation. I don't think there is anything more left to try.

Do you think I should try a beefier PSU?
 
well, Antec aren't my favourite PSUs but if you just have CPU, RAM a few drives & are using integrated gfx 430W should be OK.
Don't suppose that you have another brand of PSU to hand?
 
Originally posted by: Heidfirst
well, Antec aren't my favourite PSUs but if you just have CPU, RAM a few drives & are using integrated gfx 430W should be OK.
Don't suppose that you have another brand of PSU to hand?

300watts should be fine for what you described. In fact overkill.

Even a Quadcore Q6600 with 8800GTX doesn't pull more than 250w at load. His 430w should be fine even for this system. A Q9300 drops that to 222w with the same specs (2dimms, HD, dvd etc).

Antec makes good PSU's. Reviews are on every tech site out there for confirmation of that. Do I like PC Power and Cooling better? Heck yeah, but Antecs are good for the money.

I believe in PSU overkill (don't get me wrong 🙂), but I'm just saying...
 
Originally posted by: TheJian
Even a Quadcore Q6600 with 8800GTX doesn't pull more than 250w at load.
Iirc max TDP of an 8800GTX is ~185W, Q6600 TDP is 105W & then there are drives, mobo etc.
However, that's irrelevant as he isn't running either of those.

Antec makes good PSU's. Reviews are on every tech site out there for confirmation of that.
Antec don't make PSUs, they have them made for them.
& certain series (e.g. Smart Power II) are notoriously bad.

 
Originally posted by: Heidfirst
Originally posted by: TheJian
Even a Quadcore Q6600 with 8800GTX doesn't pull more than 250w at load.
Iirc max TDP of an 8800GTX is ~185W, Q6600 TDP is 105W & then there are drives, mobo etc.
However, that's irrelevant as he isn't running either of those.

Antec makes good PSU's. Reviews are on every tech site out there for confirmation of that.
Antec don't make PSUs, they have them made for them.
& certain series (e.g. Smart Power II) are notoriously bad.
Talking of power consumption. I just completed an installation based on AMD690-GM-M2 (AMD-X2-3800, 1GBx2, DVD+RW, 500GB HDD, PCI Wireless) and the idle power consumption was 44W according to kill-a-watt.
 
Originally posted by: Heidfirst
Originally posted by: TheJian
Even a Quadcore Q6600 with 8800GTX doesn't pull more than 250w at load.
Iirc max TDP of an 8800GTX is ~185W, Q6600 TDP is 105W & then there are drives, mobo etc.
However, that's irrelevant as he isn't running either of those.

Antec makes good PSU's. Reviews are on every tech site out there for confirmation of that.
Antec don't make PSUs, they have them made for them.
& certain series (e.g. Smart Power II) are notoriously bad.

LOL. Ok whoever makes them for them has been told X tolerances need to be adhered to and they usually do a fine job. IF you want to think like that nobody makes Nvidia cards since they're mostly based on reference designs (most). Does that mean EVGA/XFX etc don't make cards?? There are only 5 or so companies that make blank discs. Does that mean TDK/Maxell/ etc etc...Don't make discs? Since its easy to tell on blanks who REALLY made them it's maybe a bad example. But you get the point. It's more difficult on PSU's. But I can find something one with every company at one point in time. Gigabyte made a bad nvidia board (680i) but it doesn't mean they suck. Intel had to Recall a chip (hell 5 recalls in 7-8 years...caminogate anyone? P3 1.13ghz anyone? etc...). Do you think Intel sucks because of some REALLY bad realeases? ITANIC anyone... 🙂

I'm not saying they haven't made a bad product. I'm saying by and large all review sites agree they make (get it made..whatever) a good PSU no matter WHO actually made it for them. I sold Antec cases (with psu's) for 8 years and never had more than a few RMA's (no more than any other) and it was my most pushed case company. Google Antec power supply review and you can read all day. Newegg has most of them at 4eggs plus. Also from the # of buyers you can see how popular they are. 593 reviews of a smartpower 2 500w. 4eggs. Doesn't mean I'd buy one but a lot of others have. Find me a bad review 🙂

They make great cases also (love my super lanboy). Note this isn't an ad for them, I prefer other PSU's (most notably PC Power and Cooling, and if it makes you feel any better, they make their own...🙂). Just stating they are NOT known to produce junk.

BTW, you're confusing TDP with WATTS USED. Not the same things. The example I used is not irrelevant, I was giving him a guideline for how much power to expect (rather, a limit to not expect it to go over). This isn't about TDP. THERMAL DESIGN POWER has nothing to do with power supply wattage. To put it REALLY simply that's about HEAT. :roll:
 
Originally posted by: hasu
Originally posted by: Heidfirst
Originally posted by: TheJian
Even a Quadcore Q6600 with 8800GTX doesn't pull more than 250w at load.
Iirc max TDP of an 8800GTX is ~185W, Q6600 TDP is 105W & then there are drives, mobo etc.
However, that's irrelevant as he isn't running either of those.

Antec makes good PSU's. Reviews are on every tech site out there for confirmation of that.
Antec don't make PSUs, they have them made for them.
& certain series (e.g. Smart Power II) are notoriously bad.
Talking of power consumption. I just completed an installation based on AMD690-GM-M2 (AMD-X2-3800, 1GBx2, DVD+RW, 500GB HDD, PCI Wireless) and the idle power consumption was 44W according to kill-a-watt.

Illustrating the overkill I mentioned. I agree though I think your PSU is likely bad.

My bad, I just read the OP's comment and felt it should be addressed. I should have just answered you. 🙂

[EDIT] I'm currently running an Antec 450w, with my 3.6ghz Xeon 3110 (3ghz@3.6), and 4 seagate sata's, 2 dvd's (burner/rom), audigy2 and an MSI 8800GT OC with 2GB (i'm testing my new chip before going to 4dimms/8GB this week). No problem. Antec Smartpower SP-450. Two 12v rails on it, 17/15A each. Also have an Edimax 7728N wireless card in it.

I don't think the PSU is inadequate, just bad.
 
Originally posted by: TheJian
I don't think the PSU is inadequate, just bad.

I tend to think that it is right. But I tested the setup with two different Antec 430W (both bought at different times). It has got two 12v rails each with 17A. The reply I got from Abit forum was that the 12v rails should have at least 18A. Interestingly the system boots into vista if I reset the BIOS and I can restart the machine until I shut it down. Once it is shutdown it wont even POST afterwards unless I reset the BIOS again.

I am getting another 500W with two +12v rails each with 18A. Hopefully I will know the answer to this riddle by the end of next week.
 
Originally posted by: hasu
Originally posted by: TheJian
I don't think the PSU is inadequate, just bad.

I tend to think that it is right. But I tested the setup with two different Antec 430W (both bought at different times). It has got two 12v rails each with 17A. The reply I got from Abit forum was that the 12v rails should have at least 18A. Interestingly the system boots into vista if I reset the BIOS and I can restart the machine until I shut it down. Once it is shutdown it wont even POST afterwards unless I reset the BIOS again.

I am getting another 500W with two +12v rails each with 18A. Hopefully I will know the answer to this riddle by the end of next week.

Anyone telling you that two rails with 17A each rail is inadequate for Integrated video is just plain wrong (I read that grey bear guys response to you...LOL). You may have an incompatible model. I blew two MSI boards in a day, and when I took them back to ASI they had already received another 7 or so and were calling people to stop them from using a specific SPARKLE power supply. You wouldn't get more than two boots and it would short your board out. Sparkle covered the boards and we were all good. But jeez, we were blowing boards right and left and my supplier freaked for a few days...LOL.

Here's Nvidia specs:
"8800 GTS:

This graphics card requires:
PCI Express®-compliant motherboard with one x16 graphics slot
6-pin supplementary power connector
Minimum 400W or greater system power supply (with 12V current rating of 26A)*

*Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel® Core?2 Extreme X6800"

http://nvidia.custhelp.com/cgi...106678911&p_sid=Zd7eC1*i&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=754&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MTYsMTYmcF9wcm9kcz0wJnBfY2F0cz0wJnBfcHY9JnBfY3Y9JnBfc2VhcmNoX3R5cGU9YW5zd2Vycy5zZWFyY2hfbmwmcF9wYWdlPTEmcF9zZWFyY2hfdGV4dD1wb3dlciBzdXBwbHk*&p_li=&p_topview=1
The link shows SLI cards. TWO vid cards with only 400-450w PSU 22A@12v lead.

You are above both, but knowing you've tried two of the same model (and not really believing they could both be bad) I'm thinking incompatible. While I'd never argue about going up in wattage, I wouldn't go crazy. Perhaps just switch to 500w model or switch brand/model series if it really is incompatible.. You don't need a 500w PSU for an HTPC, which is what this is for corrct? Your link shows you call it an HTPC you're building. These things come with 200w-300w usually. Anyway after you're done changing out PSU, try that possibly BAD PSU in someone elses machine.
 
Originally posted by: TheJian
You don't need a 500w PSU for an HTPC, which is what this is for corrct? Your link shows you call it an HTPC you're building. These things come with 200w-300w usually. Anyway after you're done changing out PSU, try that possibly BAD PSU in someone elses machine.

Right now the board is not in the HTPC case and is not using that PSU. I built it outside the case to see power consumption, Linux compatibility and all that. In fact I already used the bad PSU with two other motherboards with no problems whatsoever. All components including PSU used in the following were exactly the same.

1. Biostar-NF61S(AM2) (GeForce 6100/nForce 405) - Worked fine
2. ECS-AMD690-GM-M2 (AMD 690G/AMD SB600) - Worked fine
3. AN-M2HD (GeForce 7050PV/nForce 630a) - Works only one boot after clearing CMOS

If at all a higher wattage PSU can fix the issue then the culprit has to be the chipset.
 
Originally posted by: TheJian

LOL. Ok whoever makes them for them has been told X tolerances need to be adhered to and they usually do a fine job. IF you want to think like that nobody makes Nvidia cards since they're mostly based on reference designs (most). Does that mean EVGA/XFX etc don't make cards?? There are only 5 or so companies that make blank discs. Does that mean TDK/Maxell/ etc etc...Don't make discs? Since its easy to tell on blanks who REALLY made them it's maybe a bad example. But you get the point. It's more difficult on PSU's. But I can find something one with every company at one point in time. Gigabyte made a bad nvidia board (680i) but it doesn't mean they suck. Intel had to Recall a chip (hell 5 recalls in 7-8 years...caminogate anyone? P3 1.13ghz anyone? etc...). Do you think Intel sucks because of some REALLY bad realeases? ITANIC anyone... 🙂
If they don't make but repackage & resell, yes - at least Gigabyte & Intel design & manufacture but Antec don't at least as far as their PSUs (I'm sure that they do have some input as to specification of fans etc.).

I sold Antec cases (with psu's) for 8 years and never had more than a few RMA's (no more than any other) and it was my most pushed case company. Google Antec power supply review and you can read all day. Newegg has most of them at 4eggs plus. Also from the # of buyers you can see how popular they are. 593 reviews of a smartpower 2 500w. 4eggs. Doesn't mean I'd buy one but a lot of others have. Find me a bad review 🙂
I can find you hundreds if not thousands of user reports of failed Smart Power IIs - reviews often don't find problems with products that users do because they don't do extended testing but only over a couple of days.
Personally, I had stopped using Antec PSUs a couple of years earlier whenI saw noticeable (& unacceptable imo) sag on the 12V rails on my True Powers when overclocking.

They make great cases also (love my super lanboy).
You're not going to like this but I have a strong suspicion that Antec don't make their own cases either.
The cases that most people thought of as the old Antecs were also sold with minimal differences badged as Chieftech, Chenming & no doubt others.
They probably have a bigger hand in designs for newer releases though as they appear to be largely unique.
Antec appear to be largely a marketing company, as you said like many others.
Afaik in 2006 they had only ~100 employees worldwide.


BTW, you're confusing TDP with WATTS USED. Not the same things. The example I used is not irrelevant, I was giving him a guideline for how much power to expect (rather, a limit to not expect it to go over). This isn't about TDP. THERMAL DESIGN POWER has nothing to do with power supply wattage. To put it REALLY simply that's about HEAT. :roll:
you can't get out more than you put in though - you'll find an extremely close correlation between CPU (or GPU) TDP & current draw under load.
Power supply draw at the wall will of course be higher due to inefficiencies.
 
http://www.anandtech.com/casec...owdoc.aspx?i=3173&p=16
Excellent for Antec 1000w, reviewed right here.

http://www.anandtech.com/casec...howdoc.aspx?i=3186&p=2
Editors choice for the Antec Truepower 850w PSU of the year (note seasonic makes a lot of their psu's, and guess who is #1...Seasonic).

http://www.anandtech.com/casec...owdoc.aspx?i=3146&p=14
"Seasonic is one of the few companies that continue to cater to this market, so it's not too surprising that in addition to their own brand they are also the production facility for the Earthwatts and Corsair power supplies.

Same story in 400-450's. shown above and in comparison:
"Comparing the acoustics is interesting because the Antec shows its potential here. The fan turns slightly faster but still produces less noise. Both the Antec and Corsair have a very low noise level and are practically silent. If you're interested in a low wattage, low noise level PSU, Antec and Corsair are definitely worth a look (as well as Seasonic, naturally). The other two power supplies don't do nearly as well. Thermaltake is even louder than the Ultra unit is, even though the fan spins at lower RPMs. Thermaltake should definitely think about changing the fan -- or maybe redesigning the fan grill, heatsinks, or whatever else is necessary -- to bring performance up to the level of Seasonic, et al."

"The Antec Earthwatts 430W comes next, with prices starting at $60. That may be 50% more than the Ultra, but we hope it's now clear that this is money well spent."

They'd prefer the seasonic but it's clear they think Antec is a bargain.

Note I ONLY used Anandtech. If it's that easy for me to find review after review at ONE site I think you get the point. They make (or have made) good PSU's. Almost everyone slaps someones elses name on their PSU etc. The question is WHO asks for higher end specs BEFORE slapping their name on it. Antec seems to ask for pretty good stuff. Excellent value for the money. This is only a YEARs worth of reviews...🙂

With regards to your comments about power I still don't get it:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articl...y/core2quad-q9300.html
Even a Q9300 QUAD core running at 3.5ghz with 8800GTX PIG graphics card only hits 324watts at LOAD. Note at default it's 100watts less (Overclocking rises disproportionately but still doesn't hit 325watts, even the PIG Q6600 at 3.6GHZ doesn't reach 400w). Considering an 85% efficiency rating you can knock another 15% off those totals since they are measuring the WALL. His PSU could handle one of these and he's using Integrated video...LOL. Note anandtech pushes PSU's BEYOND 100% (usually 110% in testing). They pushed his 430w to 461w! NO fail.

I don't care how many employees a company has. Nvidia doesn't have many and doesn't even MAKE a product. They DESIGN something others produce. That doesn't stop them from being the best graphics chip maker in the industry does it? As long as the company that is slapping their name on the product requests HIGH STANDARDS/SPECS in said product I'll keep buying them. I don't care who makes it, or where it's made as long as it's a GOOD product. I don't care if my case was made on MARS by ALIENS as long as they did a good job...ROFL. You can see this kind of stuff in everything, for instance look at the Samsung 226BW S, A and C panels. If you get the S panel you're golden. IF you get the A or the C you probably hate life and that's in the same product just manufactured in different countries. Everyone has a misstep, just read and avoid them (your smart power 2 is an example I guess). Get over it. I've shown Gigabyte, INtel, Samsung, IBM and apparently Antec (smart power2), all excellent companies by and large and none immune to a bad product. I could probably find a bad product line in every company known to man. So what. Everyone outsources something etc, read and avoid the ones who do it poorly on X product.
 
Originally posted by: hasu
Originally posted by: TheJian
You don't need a 500w PSU for an HTPC, which is what this is for corrct? Your link shows you call it an HTPC you're building. These things come with 200w-300w usually. Anyway after you're done changing out PSU, try that possibly BAD PSU in someone elses machine.

Right now the board is not in the HTPC case and is not using that PSU. I built it outside the case to see power consumption, Linux compatibility and all that. In fact I already used the bad PSU with two other motherboards with no problems whatsoever. All components including PSU used in the following were exactly the same.

1. Biostar-NF61S(AM2) (GeForce 6100/nForce 405) - Worked fine
2. ECS-AMD690-GM-M2 (AMD 690G/AMD SB600) - Worked fine
3. AN-M2HD (GeForce 7050PV/nForce 630a) - Works only one boot after clearing CMOS

If at all a higher wattage PSU can fix the issue then the culprit has to be the chipset.

I'm thinking either compatibility issue, or bad board. You've tried nearly everything else 🙂 Sorry you're having such bad luck here. When all else fails change the common denominator (the board). 🙂 I wish you better luck 😉 Two different Antecs, working fine with other boards means it's not the PSU. Maybe some weird compatibility issue but not a bad PSU. You ruled out memory I think etc. You're running out of options, could just be compatibility. Two of the same board, same results. can't be two bad boards either, looks like some compatiblity (I know, I'm repeating myself...LOL). I've definitely see stranger things.
 
It is fixed..

The main change was 2.25v for DDR2. Even the first motherboard works fine after updating the BIOS to v19 and increasing the DDR2 voltage to 2.25v.

It is now working fine with AMD-X2-4000 along with a wireless PCI card, 500GB HDD, DVD+RW and all on-board components. The PSU I used in the test setup was Antec-430W. I tried the exact same setup with no-brand 380W and worked just fine. Just for a kick I tried it with a half-height micro-atx type of PSU with only 200W (but had 24pin ATX as well as auxiliary 12v) and it worked just fine! In the final setup I will use Antec 430 to avoid any possible over-loading of the PSU.

The BIOS version 15 had more voltage options for DD2 but I think they don't work as displayed. The issue may be fixed in v19, I guess. Even though 2.25v is more than the mfr spec, RAM is not getting too warm so I guess that should be fine.

BTW, the OCZ PSU I bought this week was real junk. It has got pretty black color, sleeved wires and all that but the quality of connectors are not really good. More than that its SMPS inductive components screams louder thanthe fan noise at the switching frequency which is very very annoying. No more OCZ PSU for me. The one which I bought will go back on Monday.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Originally posted by: hasu
It is fixed..

The main change was 2.25v for DDR2. Even the first motherboard works fine after updating the BIOS to v19 and increasing the DDR2 voltage to 2.25v.

It is now working fine with AMD-X2-4000 along with a wireless PCI card, 500GB HDD, DVD+RW and all on-board components. The PSU I used in the test setup was Antec-430W. I tried the exact same setup with no-brand 380W and worked just fine. Just for a kick I tried it with a half-height micro-atx type of PSU with only 200W (but had 24pin ATX as well as auxiliary 12v) and it worked just fine! In the final setup I will use Antec 430 to avoid any possible over-loading of the PSU.

The BIOS version 15 had more voltage options for DD2 but I think they don't work as displayed. The issue may be fixed in v19, I guess. Even though 2.25v is more than the mfr spec, RAM is not getting too warm so I guess that should be fine.

BTW, the OCZ PSU I bought this week was real junk. It has got pretty black color, sleeved wires and all that but the quality of connectors are not really good. More than that its SMPS inductive components screams louder thanthe fan noise at the switching frequency which is very very annoying. No more OCZ PSU for me. The one which I bought will go back on Monday.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Jeez, I almost feel stupid for not telling you to raise the volts after telling a guy to do it in another thread last week to get his 4 dimms working..ROFL. Glad you got it working.

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...=2172234&enterthread=y

If you're worried about high voltage you could RAISE the cas (if cas4, choose 5, or if cas 5 raise to 6) probably by 1 and probably hit 2.1v or so. Most memory should last for a long time at 2.1. 2.25v though, hmmm....As long as its lifetime I guess who cares 🙂 I'd wonder what your timings are set at though. Seems awful high for just 2 sticks at regular timings. Especially if that's new ram. I could maybe understand old stuff which was arguably overclocked already just to get to DDR2 800. You might just think about replacing it with NEW 4GB (2x2GB) since it's so cheap these days ($60-75 for decent stuff) even for 5-5-5-15 @1.8v. Also if you can see it in your bios what does it show for current memory volts (not what you set it to, but what the board is showing it's getting...In the PC HEALTH menu or something like that where it shows voltages)? Note the pc will slow down at higher cas. You could also play with other timings, like if you're 4-4-4-12, try 5-5-5-15 and you should get to 2.1v or less probably, low timings are tough on old memory.
 
Originally posted by: TheJian
If you're worried about high voltage you could RAISE the cas (if cas4, choose 5, or if cas 5 raise to 6) probably by 1 and probably hit 2.1v or so. Most memory should last for a long time at 2.1. 2.25v though, hmmm....As long as its lifetime I guess who cares 🙂 I'd wonder what your timings are set at though. Seems awful high for just 2 sticks at regular timings. Especially if that's new ram. I could maybe understand old stuff which was arguably overclocked already just to get to DDR2 800. You might just think about replacing it with NEW 4GB (2x2GB) since it's so cheap these days ($60-75 for decent stuff) even for 5-5-5-15 @1.8v. Also if you can see it in your bios what does it show for current memory volts (not what you set it to, but what the board is showing it's getting...In the PC HEALTH menu or something like that where it shows voltages)? Note the pc will slow down at higher cas. You could also play with other timings, like if you're 4-4-4-12, try 5-5-5-15 and you should get to 2.1v or less probably, low timings are tough on old memory.

Well. The default timings were 5-5-5-15 even though mfr spec says it is 4-4-4-12. At 2.25v it works fine at 4-4-4-15 also. I am yet to play with memory settings.
 
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