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A lame rant about aftermarket car speakers.

B

Black88GTA

Diamond Member
Why the fuck does every aftermarket car speaker come with one normal sized terminal and one little tiny one? NOBODY sells the damn proper slide connector for that stupid ass little tiny terminal, so you always have to either wrap the wire around it and solder, or squish a standard size connector and place it half on there and hope it holds. :| Who the hell thought this was a good idea? Would it be so hard to put two standard size terminals on the damn speaker so you can fucking hook it up right??

/ weak rant
 
Haha yeah they're pretty much only available at car audio shops, but it's always better to solder anyway.
 
Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Why wouldn't you solder the connection anyway?
Click to expand...

If you're swapping out speakers fairly often (or just want to keep the option open) you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

This.

I want to have the option of removal without too much hassle. I know it's better to solder, but the spade terminals work great - that is, as long as they fit right. :disgust:

And I looked at car audio shops. Two of them. And Best Buy, and Home Depot, and Lowe's, and Radio Shack. Nobody had them.
 
you always have to either wrap the wire around it and solder
Click to expand...

Because this is the best method available.

you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

You are NEVER better off using spade connectors. If you are installing my speakers (which would never ever happen, not you personally, but nobody touches my car but me, and I'm very particular about wiring in general) and I saw you using spade connectors, and you didn't solder on top of them, I'd punch you in the mouth and drive away.

squish a standard size connector and place it half on there and hope it holds.
Click to expand...

I really hope you don't do that to customers. Its unprofessional and sloppy man.

Would it be so hard to stop being so fucking lazy and solder the connection like god intended so the customer doesn't come back because they sound like shit because its not making a good connection??!!
Click to expand...
^fixed

Seriously - any friction type connection seriously degrades the high end. Unless you are doing booty rides and bandpass sub box installs or any of your equipment says "kicker" or "Pyramid" or lol... "monster" on it - you would already know that as a 12volt engineer right?

What pisses me off is how little space is in the door - I had to saw a chunk off my last MDF spacer to get it to fit behind the panel. Then after I deadened the door - I will never be able to get that thing out. I'll seriously need to cut it out and that would suck if it broke.


 
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Why wouldn't you solder the connection anyway?
Click to expand...

If you're swapping out speakers fairly often (or just want to keep the option open) you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

This.

I want to have the option of removal without too much hassle. I know it's better to solder, but the spade terminals work great - that is, as long as they fit right. :disgust:

And I looked at car audio shops. Two of them. And Best Buy, and Home Depot, and Lowe's, and Radio Shack. Nobody had them.
Click to expand...

I personally don't find it much of a "hassle" to solder a speaker connection but if you're still looking for the spade terms, have you tried MCM Electronics or Parts Express Black88GTA?
 
Originally posted by: KevinCU
Kicker DS series perhaps? We have both sized connectors at our shop.
Click to expand...

no, CDTs. CL-69X for the rear deck, to be specific.

I also have a set of HD-62 comps that are going up front. Thank jebus those at least have spring terminals on them.
 
Originally posted by: bobdole369
Seriously - any friction type connection seriously degrades the high end. Unless you are doing booty rides and bandpass sub box installs or any of your equipment says "kicker" or "Pyramid" or lol... "monster" on it - you would already know that as a 12volt engineer right?

What pisses me off is how little space is in the door - I had to saw a chunk off my last MDF spacer to get it to fit behind the panel. Then after I deadened the door - I will never be able to get that thing out. I'll seriously need to cut it out and that would suck if it broke.
Click to expand...

What's wrong with Kicker?

Also, what did you use to dampen the door rattling? Dynamat Xtreme?
 
lol - eDead, a bunch of MDF and a little fiberglass.

I'm an elitist. When it comes to audio at least. I admit it - grill me.
 
Originally posted by: bobdole369
you always have to either wrap the wire around it and solder
Click to expand...

Because this is the best method available.

you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

You are NEVER better off using spade connectors. If you are installing my speakers (which would never ever happen, not you personally, but nobody touches my car but me, and I'm very particular about wiring in general) and I saw you using spade connectors, and you didn't solder on top of them, I'd punch you in the mouth and drive away.

squish a standard size connector and place it half on there and hope it holds.
Click to expand...

I really hope you don't do that to customers. Its unprofessional and sloppy man.

Seriously - any friction type connection seriously degrades the high end. Unless you are doing booty rides and bandpass sub box installs or any of your equipment says "kicker" or "Pyramid" or lol... "monster" on it - you would already know that as a 12volt engineer right?

What pisses me off is how little space is in the door - I had to saw a chunk off my last MDF spacer to get it to fit behind the panel. Then after I deadened the door - I will never be able to get that thing out. I'll seriously need to cut it out and that would suck if it broke.
Click to expand...

lol, I don't have "customers". This is my own car. And I know this is sloppy, hence the rant. I'm not going to jerry-rig the wrong size terminal on there. I want to put the right terminal on it, but can't frickin find one. And this car isn't getting a sub - I'm only doing speakers right now. The two in the doors were dead. As in, made no sound at all. The surrounds had rotted and fell out years ago, and were sitting in the bottom of the door panel. The rears were both blown out and rattled terribly. The front tweeters still worked good though.

I know soldering is a better option, but I'm sort of trying to stay away from that right now. I may end up doing it anyway, and just disconnecting at the amp if I ever have to remove them.

My door speakers are barely going to clear my window, even with a 3/4" MDF spacer in there...I hope it's thick enough. 😱
 
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Why wouldn't you solder the connection anyway?
Click to expand...

If you're swapping out speakers fairly often (or just want to keep the option open) you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

This.

I want to have the option of removal without too much hassle. I know it's better to solder, but the spade terminals work great - that is, as long as they fit right. :disgust:

And I looked at car audio shops. Two of them. And Best Buy, and Home Depot, and Lowe's, and Radio Shack. Nobody had them.
Click to expand...

I personally don't find it much of a "hassle" to solder a speaker connection but if you're still looking for the spade terms, have you tried MCM Electronics or Parts Express Black88GTA?
Click to expand...

Nothing online yet, was hoping to find something locally. I may just end up soldering. It's not that it's a hassle to solder it - it's just that it becomes a problem when you want to swap speakers out or need to remove them for other reasons and you have to disconnect at the amp or cut the wires, rather than just pull off the slide terminals.
 
Originally posted by: bobdole369
lol - eDead, a bunch of MDF and a little fiberglass.

I'm an elitist. When it comes to audio at least. I admit it - grill me.
Click to expand...

Dynamat Xtreme will be your best and cleanest material for sound deadening. If you want to effectively block out road noise, make sure to add a layer of Dynaliner on top of the Dynamat.

Again, what's wrong with Kicker? It's a name that people know, trust, and love buying.

What brands do you go with?
 
This is done so that all the speakers are playing in the same phase. In short all the + and - terminals are connected properly so that the speakers push in pull in unison.
 
Originally posted by: bobdole369
OK phew. Fine on your own ride. You know that you can desolder just as easily right? Or cut the wire? Just saying.

Parts Express...

http://www.parts-express.com/p...cfm?Partnumber=095-286

Also check Advance Auto (Discount Auto parts) or murrays or jegs, or autozone or even pep boys. They probably do have them.

Even the dreaded Wal-Mart might.
Click to expand...

I'd rather not get into a habit of soldering / desoldering every time I pull them out. I don't really want to introduce all of that heat into those little terminals any more times than necessary. I haven't looked at the auto parts stores yet, figured they'd never have them.

In my experience, the big box stores (walmart, etc) are crap when it comes to stuff like this. They usually have the little kit boxes that come with 5 - 10 of the most commonly used terminals, and of course this doesn't include those small ones. Admittedly, I haven't looked there yet though.
 
Dynamat isn't too shabby, but I like the elemental designs deadener. It's a lot easier to work with and just as effective. Kicker is over-rated and overpriced consumer garbage (in my humble opinion - remember I'm an elitist). I like the sound of JL Audio subs a lot better in my car. I can't afford better stuff like image dynamics, ssa, peerless, elemental, focal, or any of the really high end stuff 🙁
 
Originally posted by: KevinCU
Originally posted by: bobdole369
lol - eDead, a bunch of MDF and a little fiberglass.

I'm an elitist. When it comes to audio at least. I admit it - grill me.
Click to expand...

Dynamat Xtreme will be your best and cleanest material for sound deadening. If you want to effectively block out road noise, make sure to add a layer of Dynaliner on top of the Dynamat.

Again, what's wrong with Kicker? It's a name that people know, trust, and love buying.

What brands do you go with?
Click to expand...

I used one of the Dynamat Extreme door kits in the rear deck with the 6x9s...was surprised at how easy it was to work with.

I was going to use Second Skin Damplifier in the doors eventually...not yet though, as I'm going to be replacing both doors soon.
 
I haven't looked at the auto parts stores yet, figured they'd never have them.
Click to expand...

You'll be surprised at the selection of wire terminals available.

They usually have the little kit boxes that come with 5 - 10 of the most commonly used terminals, and of course this doesn't include those small ones.
Click to expand...

Except your wrong. One day at 2am while working on a yacht installation (not audio we do monitoring systems) I needed a terminal so bad, but we were in bufu alabama, but there was a walmart, and I still have that kit, and I just looked and whaddaya know there is that same little crimp-on quick disconnect you are looking for.


 
Originally posted by: IamElectro
This is done so that all the speakers are playing in the same phase. In short all the + and - terminals are connected properly so that the speakers push in pull in unison.
Click to expand...

I know the little one is used to designate the negative (or ground) terminal, but I'd rather squint at a little marking to differentiate between pos and neg terminals than go on a wild goose chase looking for some impossible to find slide terminal to mate with it.
 
Originally posted by: bobdole369
you always have to either wrap the wire around it and solder
Click to expand...

Because this is the best method available.

you're much better off using spade connectors.
Click to expand...

You are NEVER better off using spade connectors. If you are installing my speakers (which would never ever happen, not you personally, but nobody touches my car but me, and I'm very particular about wiring in general) and I saw you using spade connectors, and you didn't solder on top of them, I'd punch you in the mouth and drive away.

squish a standard size connector and place it half on there and hope it holds.
Click to expand...

I really hope you don't do that to customers. Its unprofessional and sloppy man.

Would it be so hard to stop being so fucking lazy and solder the connection like god intended so the customer doesn't come back because they sound like shit because its not making a good connection??!!
Click to expand...
^fixed

Seriously - any friction type connection seriously degrades the high end. Unless you are doing booty rides and bandpass sub box installs or any of your equipment says "kicker" or "Pyramid" or lol... "monster" on it - you would already know that as a 12volt engineer right?

What pisses me off is how little space is in the door - I had to saw a chunk off my last MDF spacer to get it to fit behind the panel. Then after I deadened the door - I will never be able to get that thing out. I'll seriously need to cut it out and that would suck if it broke.
Click to expand...

I sold and installed car audio for years. We never soldered any connections.
 
Originally posted by: Black88GTA
Originally posted by: IamElectro
This is done so that all the speakers are playing in the same phase. In short all the + and - terminals are connected properly so that the speakers push in pull in unison.
Click to expand...

I know the little one is used to designate the negative (or ground) terminal, but I'd rather squint at a little marking to differentiate between pos and neg terminals than go on a wild goose chase looking for some impossible to find slide terminal to mate with it.
Click to expand...

Use one of those white "paint" markers then, at least you won't have to squint. 🙂
 
I've got a set of boston acoustics SL65's coaxials, and a set of S35 coaxes in the dash. I'm not sure what I want for the tweeters but it'll end up a 3 way front soundstage, thus throwing away more or less the point of the coaxes, but I'm not happy with how they sound. I might end up with some ribbons. I seriously need a friend with a dealership.

Drive these with a Clarion apx2120 for the doors, and a nakamichi pa-2001 (I think its 35wx2), and I've got another nak amp I want to use for the tweeters. JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box, with a JL amp 300W mono running it.
 
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