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96 Cutlass Supreme that needs a new transmission...

S

Spoooon

Lifer
What would be the smart decision: replacing the transmission or getting a new car? The estimate on replacing the transmission is about $2500. Is it worth spending that much money on an "old" car? Either way, financial difficulties await me.


update: Well, looks like the transmission has to get replaced. His estimate was from 1500 to 2500 dollars. His guess on how much it would actually cost was around 1800.
 
How many miles are on the car? Will it have to have anything else done to it...timing belt, suspension work, ect?

$2500 seems outrageously high. This isn't a Porche or BMW were talking about...it's a GM car that has about half a billion other cars with the same transmission out on the roads or in junk yards. Shop around and you should be able to have it done for half that.
 
How's the rest of the car? Do you take care of it? Do you like it well enough? What kind of other problems does it have? The car's only 6 years old, if it's a decent car, have it fixed, and take this as a lesson about changing fluid and other preventative maintenance.
 
The car has 85100 miles on it. It's in good shape except for a dent. It runs well, etc. I like the car, especially since I've spent a ton of time fixing it up for my stereo. That estimate was given to me at Midas. I'm having a transmission guy look at it now that was recommended to me by a friend. I'm just trying to prepare for the worst. 😉 I'm crossing my fingers that it will be something that can be repaired without having to replace the transmission.
 
A dice roll there. I put a new tranny in my 89 GMC Van at 90,000 miles. 3 weeks later my motor ground to a halt and I need a rebuilt motor in it now. $1700 down the drain!
 
I have a customer of mine that has over 200K on his 1990 Buick Regal. When his trans went out at 165K instead of paying $1500 for a rebult one he got one from a salavage yard and put it in. I changed the Trans fluid twice and he has 35K on it so far. And he delievers pizza's so it has not been a easy 35K.

The price you gave sounds high. Ask another shop and also Call auto zone or another parts store as a lot of them carry reman engines and trans with a warrenty. If you buy one from a Auto Zone or the like, then all you have to pay is for it to be installed.
But your price sounds about $800-1200 to high for that type of car.

But with only 85K on your car, you should be able to get at least another 100K if not 200K more out of it if you take care of it. That means changing the Trans fluid every 15-25K, and the Oil every 3K.

Get some more info and tell me what you find out. I am a mechanic that works for myself so I have seen it and heard it all. 🙂
 
after the problems i ahve had with my girlfriends car, i would run the hell away from any GM product. Her's is a 1995 Cutlass Ciera SL with the 3.1L engine. That engine is impossible to work on. You cannot even get to the thermostat without tearing the engine apart. Now the intake(they think) gasket has blown. It only has 77000 miles on it! I'm thoroughly disgusted with it
 
What exactly is happening?

I know a common problem in some GM transmissions is for some particular valve to stick and it effectively prevents the vehicle from downshifting. When you start to deaccellerate, the car stays in the higher gear and it eventually stalls itself.

I had this happen in a '90 Grand Am, a friend just had it replaced in a '94 Corsica, and I've known of others that had to have the same things done. The cost for it was around $200-$300 to have it fixed.
 
Midas: negative, never, nunca, jaimis, nie! Let them stick to charging suckers good money for cheap ass low quality mufflers and brakes. This is serious work that needs to be done by serious mechanics, not the $10/hr hacks that Midas and the like tend to hire. Good move going to place recommended by a friend.
 
Originally posted by: vi_edit
What exactly is happening?

I know a common problem in some GM transmissions is for some particular valve to stick and it effectively prevents the vehicle from downshifting. When you start to deaccellerate, the car stays in the higher gear and it eventually stalls itself.

I had this happen in a '90 Grand Am, a friend just had it replaced in a '94 Corsica, and I've known of others that had to have the same things done. The cost for it was around $200-$300 to have it fixed.
Click to expand...

Actually, what happens is that the lock-up torque converter fails to unlock. This is tantamount to braking with a manual transmission in gear and not depressing the clutch before you come to a complete stop. In either case, the engine stalls.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
after the problems i ahve had with my girlfriends car, i would run the hell away from any GM product. Her's is a 1995 Cutlass Ciera SL with the 3.1L engine. That engine is impossible to work on. You cannot even get to the thermostat without tearing the engine apart. Now the intake(they think) gasket has blown. It only has 77000 miles on it! I'm thoroughly disgusted with it
Click to expand...

The thermostat on the 3.1L Chevy V-6 is very easy to get to. Just because you are not a mechanic or have the tools needed for the job does not mean it is hard to work on. That engine is very easy. If you think that is bad, go work on a Honda.
My customer with the 90 regal has the 3.1L motor in his car. He keeps it up, and will get maybe 300K out of it, if not more. And he delievers pizzas, BUT he maintains the car.

I am a mechanic and have worked on just about everything out there and the 3.1 is a very mechainc friendly engine, compared to most others out there. The only other engine that is easier to work on is the Buick 3.8L motor.

 
Originally posted by: vi_edit
Marlin1975, what's your thoughts on the GM 3.4 DOHC? Easy or tough to work on?
Click to expand...

Or Saturn? While it looks pretty straightforward, I'm less than impressed with mine so far. I actually don't mind my Hondas.
 
OH MY GOD!!!!!! RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is one of the hardest engines to work on. I rather work on a honda.

The engine is ok, but I think the 3.8L buick motor is better. Most of the 3.4L DOHC motors came with Auto trans which killed the point of a high reving motor. Also it is louder than the average motor.

For example the Alt. is under the car near the Pass. side firewall. I had to take out the CV joint to get it out when I did one.

Not the worst motor, but not on my top 10 list of best motors.
 
Originally posted by: Marlin1975
OH MY GOD!!!!!! RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is one of the hardest engines to work on. I rather work on a honda.

The engine is ok, but I think the 3.8L buick motor is better. Most of the 3.4L DOHC motors came with Auto trans which killed the point of a high reving motor. Also it is louder than the average motor.

For example the Alt. is under the car near the Pass. side firewall. I had to take out the CV joint to get it out when I did one.

Not the worst motor, but not on my top 10 list of best motors.
Click to expand...


Heehee 🙂 Just checking 😀
 
What year Saturn, and is it a S or L motor.

The early motors used Throttle body F/I, the newwer ones use Multi-Port.

The motors are easy to work on, and Saturn was smart enough to use a timing chain not a belt. Also the Auto Trans has a spin on filter and drain plug, makes the Trans service VERY easy compared to most cars, where you have to drop the trans pan to get to the filter and the pan has no drain plug. Think about having to change you oil by taking the pan off everytime, and the pan has no drain plug. Not fun.

Saturn is a very reliable motor, easy to work on, and very safe car. Its not going to win any speed records or be the next Caddy. But for what it cost is a very good car. I recomend them to a lot of people. Even helped my aunt pick out a S wagon, she loves it.
 
It's a 94 SL2. I know they're not bad cars. The one I just bought has 202,000 miles on it. I bought it because I knew its history, and it's pretty good for the first 176,000 miles. I got it for $250 because it needed clutch work. I thought I was going to break the hydraulic actuator assembly getting it in under all the ABS garbage, even after I removed the battery tray. Anyway, it didn't completely solve my problem, which is that the clutch doesn't fully disengage. It got better, but it's not fixed. I think the pressure plate must be worn/defective. There is some chatter on the takeup. Sound about right to you?

Haynes said to pull the engine to get at the clutch, and I got scared, but I've since discovered (through Saturn Fan forums) that that is total BS, and I can change the clutch just like on any other FWD car, by removing the transmission. Do you have any tips? (You can PM me if you want.)
 
Did you change the flywheel or turn it. I know someone that did a clutch job on a new firebird and turned the flywheel. Well he found out AFTER he put it back together that it was to thin and it would not disengage. The book says either not to turn the flywheel or replace it if it is think or close to being thin.

Also what do you mean it makes chatter noise on take off. Does it make the noise when you are in gear then let off the clutch, or it makes noise when you are on the clutch and put it into gear?
 
Originally posted by: Spoooon
What would be the smart decision: replacing the transmission or getting a new car? The estimate on replacing the transmission is about $2500. Is it worth spending that much money on an "old" car? Either way, financial difficulties await me.
Click to expand...


What is the Tran's doing or not doing that makes you think you need to rebuild/replace it?
 
I haven't done any work on the clutch yet, aside from the hydraulic assembly. It won't fully disengage (almost, but not quite) when the pedal is depressed. By chatter, I mean vibration when you're starting off in first (you know, while it is still only half way engaged). I'm hoping the vibration and partial disengagement is caused by a worn out/partially broken pressure plate. I don't want to replace the flywheel, but if it's fairly inexpensive, or if it obviously needs it, I will. Some people on the Saturn forums have recommended that if there is no obvious runout on the flywheel, I should just "resurface" it with some sandpaper. Do you think that's OK? I don't really enjoy working on cars (my budget enjoys it, I don't), I'd rather just drive them, so I definitely don't want to have to do this twice.

Thanks Marlin.
 
OK thats better.

My 1975 Monza does the same thing. The last owner was told it needs a new clutch kit, ie pressure place, clutch, and bearing.
Well I have not put the new clutch in yet, but I also know my trans mount is bad. I don't know if the mount caused the bad clutch or the clutch system caused the mount to go bad but they both need to be replaced. And my clutch is done by cable, so I know its not in the fluid system.

Best thing to do is put a new clutch kit in it, turn the flywheel and measure it to make sure its not to thin, and check all the motor and trans mounts out. This shoiuld get you all fixed up. But with any clutch job, take your time and replace anything that looks like it need to be replaced. Its easier now then to put it all back together and have the starter go out, etc...

But $250 for a Saturn was a good price if all it needs is a clutch. As long as the inside is not to trashed.

But my machine shop only charges $20-40 dollars to turn a flywheel. You can use some 600-1200grit paper if there are no heat cracks or glazing. But with as many miles as you have, at least get it measured to make sure its not to thin.
 
Naw, the inside is not too bad. The entire car was just about perfect at 176,000, and it only needs some light cleaning now. I wouldn't have even bought the car if the inside was trashed. Yuck!

Thanks for your help. 🙂
 
i might be wrong, but it is my understanding that there are a lot of NON-Transmission things that can cause a car to run as if it has a tranny problem. something like a vacuum hose, or a rough engine, etc...

definitely get a mechanic you can trust.

 
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