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939Dual-SATA2 + Athlon 64 3200 problem

K

Kra

Junior Member
My old system basically died on me, and from what I was able to look up and get replies to, it was definitely my motherboard or processor. The computer just turned off on me one day mid gameplay, from then on it would start for like 2 secs then shut off immdiately, I would then have to physically unplug it and let it sit for a minute or so, then plug it back up just to have it turn on for two secs then shut right back off again. It would run as long as I did not plug in the 4 pin connector that powered the processor.

So fastfoward a bit, and I just got some new parts for Christmas basically just a new Asrock 939Dual-SATA2 board, and an AMD64 3200+. I had no problems seating the motherboard and new processor in where they needed to be. The components that I am using from my previous computer (I checked them all in diagnosing previous problem, and am sure they are completely functional) are my 350W EZMedia PSU, Radeon 9800 Pro, Kingston 1GB DDR PC2700 + 512MB PC2100, Hitachi Dekstar 80GB @ 7200 (IDE), and my lite-on cd burner. Atm I am only using the 512 MB stick since I know for sure it is stable, since it and the kingston RAM stick were tested previously, I am not using the kingston RAM stick, since for some weird reason it will fit in DDR slots 2-4, but not 1.

Atm I can not get the computer to boot at all, I have read several other posts, and tried reseting the CMOS over and over again, but that isnt helping. One thing that I have noticed that is strange, is that when we hook up a drive (IDE cable + PSU cable), wether it be the HDD(IDE1), or the CD/optical drive(IDE2) to the IDE cable, they do not respond. However, if I unplug them(from IDE port) they function, the Hard drive even starts spinning when I take out the IDE cable, but when I plug in the IDE + power cable the HDD does nothing at all.

I know a lot of what I have needs an upgrade, but atm, as a college student, it is the best I can do for a while, much of the reason that I like the board is because it gives me the option to do that later on in the year.

Many thanks in advance for any help that you all can provide, and please feel free to ask about any thing that I have said that needs clarification.
 
Ahh, I thought maybe your problem was you jammed a S754 CPU into a S939 MB. 😛

Well, you shopuld start with the basics. Pull the MB out of the case and put on a non conductive surface. Install only the CPU/HSF, VC, and one stick of RAM and see if you can get into the BIOS.
 
What the +12V Amps on that PSU? Since it's old (+12V wasn't used near as much a coupe of years ago), I'm betting that is really low, probably no more that 15A.
That might not be sufficient for it even to boot. Preferably you'd want 20+ Amps at a minium.
 
I know that in the anandtech review of this board they said there was a cold boot problem prior to Bios 1.20. The article said it often required several starts to get it to boot. I know you can't tell which Bios you have but I thought I would mention it.


unmerited
 
Ike you seem to be dead on, the +12V listing on the side of the PSU is 12A, and -12V is 0.5A.

Also tried the previous suggestion of using just the mother board and essential components on a non conductive surface. I remembered reading something about shorting the power button, so I used a spare jumper to short that so it would actually turn on (is that okay?) when I plugged it in. It still did not boot, so I will be getting a new PSU asap. Is PSU sufficient?
 
Worthy of it's extra cost.

Welcome to AT.

First thing you'll want to do once you get her to POST is replace that ****** BIOS.. OCWBeta2 is the best for overclocking. If you don't do that use the official ones (drivers here too). One thing that might be holding you back is that PC2100 RAM. Stick with the 1GB stick. If it doesn't fit in slot 1 just put it in another slot. Since this board has issues with 2T memory timing buying nice RAM would be a waste. so get something like this eventually. the cheapest quality cas2 ddr400 1GB stick you can find.
 
Originally posted by: ribbon13
Worthy of it's extra cost.

Welcome to AT.

First thing you'll want to do once you get her to POST is replace that ****** BIOS.. OCWBeta2 is the best for overclocking. If you don't do that use the official ones (drivers here too). One thing that might be holding you back is that PC2100 RAM. Stick with the 1GB stick. If it doesn't fit in slot 1 just put it in another slot. Since this board has issues with 2T memory timing buying nice RAM would be a waste. so get something like this eventually. the cheapest quality cas2 ddr400 1GB stick you can find.
Click to expand...

nice find on that seasonic ribbon, $20 cheaper than newegg...
 
Yea, that's a damn good price.
That's very tempting. I just wish pre-sleeving all the cables would become standard practice.
 
Thank you so much for the welcome, and the replies.

I ran over to bestbuy and picked up a new PSU. I couldnt seem to find any with 20A on the 12V. Many of them were of the 24-pin type. the 12V(1) and 12V(2) connections kinda threw me. Niether of them carried more than 19A on either 12V(1) or 12V(2), if they are in parellel and that refers to the minimum sum of the currents then I thinking this one should be enough (to be honest I have no idea, was just making a guess based on what I knew, when purchasing the PSU).

So I installed the new PSU, and the fans start spinning (no booting), but...like 3-5 secs after starting up it cuts off, and I have to flip the switch again, and the cycle just repeats itself, me flipping the switch and turning it on, and then it cutting off shortly after. I was careful with the installation, I was sure not to put the detatchable 4-pin connector into the CPU power plug. I used only the 4pin connector that was never attached to the 24-pin assembly, so I am certain I hooked it up correctly.

I was afraid maybe I had screwed up something, so I hooked back up the old PSU, and the fans came on again, and stayed on, but no booting again. So it seems the problem from before is still there. I even placed the kingston stick into DDR slot 2 as the only stick to see if maybe the lower clock speed RAM was an issue, but both sticks gave the same results.

Im gonna go ahead and get a 400W or more PSU and try it early tomorrow. Thanks again for the replies and continued help if possible.

 
The 12V(1) and (2) are two different +12V rails. You add them together to get the total +12V Amps. So even if they only had +10 each, that would be 20A, which is enough.
That PSU is sufficient for your system now.
If it starts to boot, then the PSU must be good. The RAM should be fine, but try it in a differnt slot just to be sure. You know the VC works right?
Other than that, it pretty much must be the MB or CPU. If you don't have a spare S939 MB or CPU (or have friend that does), then you probably should start an RMA on the board as that is the most likey cause.
 
Alright just as a final update

As it stands, when I connect the barebones boot config, and all the cords to the correct places the setup/fans power up, then cut off 2-3 seconds after. If I remove the 4-pin connector (cpu power), then the fans turn on and things stay on. At this point I am guessing it is the cpu, since it is only when that is provided power that the system exhibits the odd shut off behavior when failing to boot.

Also, I got curious ,and prolly stupid, and decided that I would set the PSU to 230V mode via the red switch in back. I read where it said that setting was for Europe etc., but I just had to try it. Really strange part was that the thing came on and stayed on, even with the CPU 4-pin connector plugged in. I only left it on for about 10 secs as I felt that warning in the Antec manual was for good reason. When I flipped it back to 115V mode it continued doing the shutting off thing.

Current plan is to return everything (if I can, I believe I might have voided some warranties with the 230V switching) and just purchase a pre-tested barebones kit from SMKsuperstore (if anyone know of a place that might be better, please let me know). I was able to get more funding from my older brother, so hopefully at most it will be a 300 dollar lesson learned (OUCH!!!!!), and a few more days til the new system arrives. Thanks again everyone, and if you have any more suggestions please let me know.

 
Why not just RMA the CPU and MB? Don't give up on building yet.
If everyone quit the first time they had issues such as yours, nobody would be building their own.
Also, there are many, many people who've bought prebuilt (and supposedly tested) PC's only to not even be abe to get them to boot out of the box. With electronics, these problems will always be a possibility.
 
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