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'93 camry for $100... edit: it's free and it's now mine.

SunnyD

SunnyD

Belgian Waffler
Update:
Here she is, in all her *cough* glory.

toyota1.jpg


toyota2.jpg


Edit: My wife told me the car is now free.

Any suggestions on what to look out for?

Owner says it needs a new battery and timing adjusted. 200k miles, but supposedly had the engine replaced (still waiting to hear the details on that).

I just need a beater to get to and from work. From what I gather, camry's are pretty durable. For $100 + ~$250 or so to get it back on the road, might be worth it.

(Note: I'm not a gear-head by any means, so keep that in mind)

Edit: New details, it's a 93 camry, the engine was replaced in 96. Hrm...

Also, it's been sitting in their garage for the last year, so hasn't been driven in a while.
 
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$100? I think I'd take it on the spot...


How do you adjust the timing anyway? Take off the belt covers, belt, and realign the marks?
 
4 cylinder?

I had a '92 that was pretty bullet-proof...ran to 290K in my family (gave it to my little sister) before we donated it to charity. It was a V6 model...but I've heard the I4 is way more reliable. Other than timing belt/water pump maintenance and the regular oil/air filter changes...the car was solid. We did go through a couple re-manufactured radiators and got the car repainted around 2003. The door handles also broke...but those were cheap fixes. I had a problem with one of the axles...but that was completely my fault...I James Bonded the car on a cement wall.
 
@ $100 what do you have to lose?

If it breaks down you can just call a ride and leave it where it broke down.
 
PottedMeat said:
$100? I think I'd take it on the spot...


How do you adjust the timing anyway? Take off the belt covers, belt, and realign the marks?
Click to expand...

When I replaced the water pump in my old escort years ago, I had to pull the spark plugs out and set the timing based on cylinder position. The pump was on the timing belt, so it sucked. I did a rough set, got it running and then took it to the shop. They finished it from there.

airdata said:
@ $100 what do you have to lose?

If it breaks down you can just call a ride and leave it where it broke down.
Click to expand...

This is pretty much what I'm thinking. My preference though is to have a car that I can drive to/from work daily. ~10 miles each way.
 
do it, just do it.
$100, that's like a couple of night out.
it's got the 5s-fe engine, very reliable and cheap to replace.
transmission maybe iffy, but again $100, who cares. Just check the fluid, replace if not red.
go buy it and post pics
 
MaxFusion16 said:
do it, just do it.
$100, that's like a couple of night out.
it's got the 5s-fe engine, very reliable and cheap to replace.
transmission maybe iffy, but again $100, who cares. Just check the fluid, replace if not red.
go buy it and post pics
Click to expand...

LOL....do not replace it fluid. Keep it the way it is, If the fluid was never flushed, changing it would be an instant kill for the tranny...

but yeah, for $100....get it. Worst that can happen is it breaks, but at 100 bucks...who cares. You'll probably be able to off load it at $250.
 
Gibson486 said:
LOL....do not replace it fluid. Keep it the way it is, If the fluid was never flushed, changing it would be an instant kill for the tranny...

but yeah, for $100....get it. Worst that can happen is it breaks, but at 100 bucks...who cares. You'll probably be able to off load it at $250.
Click to expand...

That's commonly quoted bs. You shouldn't flush it, just replace the fluid. Flushing makes all the sediment move, where as new fluid just will have less sediment in it.
 
halik said:
That's commonly quoted bs. You shouldn't flush it, just replace the fluid. Flushing makes all the sediment move, where as new fluid just will have less sediment in it.
Click to expand...

I've heard the "no flushing" comment before...but never understood the logic. What is the problem with cleaning the sediment out?
 
Nothing to look out for. If it runs and will pass safety inspection (if your state has one) that is all that matters.
 
Skoorb said:
Nothing to look out for. If it runs and will pass safety inspection (if your state has one) that is all that matters.
Click to expand...
Hahaha... no inspections here other than to match the vin up with the paperwork. You should see some of the shit on the roads down here (Alabama).
 
PricklyPete said:
I've heard the "no flushing" comment before...but never understood the logic. What is the problem with cleaning the sediment out?
Click to expand...
I've heard it and it always made sense but now that you ask I'm like yeah what exactly is wrong with it?

I don't think new fluid will flush sediment out, though if you don't flush.

I do think flushing is probably a waste of time, just change the fluid, who cares if the little crevices on the edges of the tranny aren't really affected.
 
PricklyPete said:
I've heard the "no flushing" comment before...but never understood the logic. What is the problem with cleaning the sediment out?
Click to expand...

the logic is with a flushing machine. You essentially backwash the fluid out by sucking it out through the same inlet that you put the fluid in. The high pressure ones have enough pressure too loosen all the grit that attaches the tranny and it actually can dislodge stuff from your ATX filter since you are backwashing (you are going the opposite normal direction of flow). All that stuff in the ATX filter now goes back into your transmission.
 
Gibson486 said:
the logic is with a flushing machine. You essentially backwash the fluid out by sucking it out through the same inlet that you put the fluid in. The high pressure ones have enough pressure too loosen all the grit that attaches the tranny and it actually can dislodge stuff from your ATX filter since you are backwashing (you are going the opposite normal direction of flow). All that stuff in the ATX filter now goes back into your transmission.
Click to expand...

So basically, don't flush, but drain and refill with clean fluid? Is that what you're implying?
 
halik said:
That's commonly quoted bs. You shouldn't flush it, just replace the fluid. Flushing makes all the sediment move, where as new fluid just will have less sediment in it.
Click to expand...

truth, drain as much transmission fluid as you can, then refill, you'll probably only replace half of the fluid, but still better than nothing.

don't power flush, that kicks up the metal shavings and ruin the transmission.
 
SunnyD said:
So basically, don't flush, but drain and refill with clean fluid? Is that what you're implying?
Click to expand...

do not even put new fluid in. If the tranny has never been serviced, it's relying on that build up on it to get the appropriate friction. Putting new fluid can take that build away.
 
bump to Gibson...my wife has 98' Honda Accord...started having tranning probs and changed fluid and it actually got worse. Didn't change it for a few years and it runs better and better all the time because of the friction, etc... 167k mileage.
 
Heh, you can spend more than $100 on a decent night out. If you can afford to lose $100, why not take the gamble? Probably better odds than going across the state lines to Mississippi's casinos. 😛
 
If they are saying timing needs adjustment what that translates into 2 things
1. I tried to put a timing belt on it and messed up
2. The timing belt broke and I put a new one on and it runs like crap.

Either way it usually means bent valves. So be very careful.
 
halik said:
That's commonly quoted bs. You shouldn't flush it, just replace the fluid. Flushing makes all the sediment move, where as new fluid just will have less sediment in it.
Click to expand...

Agree, always drain and refill.. I will mock the term flushing as long as I post on this forum.

Drain and refill has kept many a tranny in my family running smoothly over the years, there is absolutely no harm in doing so. Only good.
 
Marlin1975 said:
If they are saying timing needs adjustment what that translates into 2 things
1. I tried to put a timing belt on it and messed up
2. The timing belt broke and I put a new one on and it runs like crap.

Either way it usually means bent valves. So be very careful.
Click to expand...

Unless it's not an interference engine, which it very well could be.

I had a timing belt break on one of my old old cars, no damage was done aside from needing a new belt.
 
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