'92 Cougar Repair - May 4 Update - Important Control Arm Question

[kalrith]

May 4 Important Question:

Do I have to compress struts to replace lower control arm?



I have a ’92 Mercury Cougar that I’m getting ready to fix up to be my daily driver. The engine and transmission are very solid (5.0, 130k miles), but the steering, suspension, front wheel bearings, etc. are shot. Here are the parts that I plan to replace:

Axle bearing and hub (2 front)
Tie-rod ends (all)
Control arms, ball joints, and bushings (all)
Front strut assembly
Rear shocks
Front rotors and pads
Window motors (all)
Spark plugs & wires
Headlights
​

Is the above list a comprehensive steering and suspension replacement? AFAIK, there’s nothing wrong with the steering rack itself; there’s just way too much play in the front wheels.

Is there anything else that I should be fixing/replacing while I’m at it?

I already inspected the belts and hoses, and they all look good. Is there anything else I should inspect before placing a large order at Rock Auto?

Thanks!

 

[jlee]

Yeesh, that's going to be pricey! 😱

If you have a distributor, I'd replace the cap and rotor as well. Don't forget the fluid changes too - oil, coolant, trans.

 

[kalrith]

It should be about $800 and a whole lot of work on my part. I've considered just buying a different car, but trying to find something that's $1,000, reliable, roomy enough for vacations, and not needing any work seems to be impossible.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Axle bearing and hub (2 front)
Tie-rod ends (all)
Control arms, ball joints, and bushings (all)
Front strut assembly
Rear shocks
Front rotors and pads
Window motors (all)
Spark plugs & wires
Headlights

why do these need replacing? just worn out? bent??

 

[kalrith]

The axle bearings can't be replaced on their own, so I have to replace the whole bearing-and-hub assembly. The front driver-side wheel makes a very loud humming noise, and I believe it's because of the bearing. I like to replace things like that in pairs, so I'm replacing both up front.

I'm debating on whether I should replace the struts. They are somewhat worn and make a loud creaking sound when I hit bumps. I thought that while I'm in there replacing everything else, I should replace them as well. However, they're $200 of the $800. I think the creaking sound is from the bearings, so maybe I can just replace those. I'm not sure whether I can replace the bearings without compressing the struts.

I know I need to replace the tie-rod ends and ball joints. I figured that while I'm at it, I would just buy control arms that come with the ball joints and bushings on them. Do you think that's unnecessary?

I'm not trying to just throw money away. However, I also have to consider my labor. I'll have the car up on jack stands in my garage until it's ready to be my daily driver. Once it is, then it'll be harder to do much work on it since I'll be driving it 5 days per week.

If there are things that won't last until 200k miles, then I want to replace them now. If things like control arms and struts are likely to last that long, then I don't have to replace them. Everything on my list besides control arms and struts are definitely worn out and need replacing.

 

[kalrith]

bump for more feedback

 

[Ketchup]

My wife really likes those cars. I have driven one, and can definitely understand your desire to fix it up. Does it have the V-8?

The only thing I would suggest is that even though I have not seen the car, (hint: we want pics) is seems that you are assuming a bit too much needs to be replaced. As FuzzyDunlop mentioned, the struts part is pretty surprising, unless it has a million miles on it.

 

[kalrith]

It does have the V8, and it drives great. It's a bit rough-looking right now, but I'll get it cleaned up and post some picks. (or maybe I'll post some before pics to make the after pics look even better 🙂)

It only has 130k miles on it, so I probably am assuming that too much needs to be replaced. I knew that the rear shocks were shot. When I had it in the shop for something else, I asked my mechanic to look at the suspension and write up an estimate for repairs. He said it needed the rear shocks and upper and lower ball joints on both sides replaced. Maybe I'll just stick with that and skip the control arms and struts.

The wheel bearings in one of the front wheels makes a very loud humming sound, and I need to replace the entire hub since the bearings aren't serviceable.

There is so much play in the front wheels that I have to fight to keep the car in my lane on the highway. I believe that replacing the tie-rod ends will fix that problem.

For the brakes, I need to inspect them first, but I’m pretty sure I need new pads. New rotors are about the same price as getting the old ones turned.

The motors in the windows don’t work anymore, so I know those need to be replaced. They’ve given me problems for years anyways.

So, here's my new repair list:

Axle bearing and hub (2 front)
Tie-rod ends (all 4)
ball joints (all 4)
Rear shocks (already purchased)
Front rotors and pads
Window motors (both)
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires (already purchased)
Headlights (already purchased)

Total: $381 shipped
​

Does this look like a better part list than the one in the OP?

BTW, is there any way to replace the strut bushings without compressing the struts? My struts seem to work OK, but they’ve been making a creaking sound for years, and I think the bushings need to be replaced.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[twinrider1]

5% coupons for Rock Auto can usually be found online. Also, check pricing against Amazon. The hubs and window motor for my Durango were cheaper from Amazon, especially when you figure in shipping.

Edit: Might consider sway bar bushings and links while you're under there. Also, Moog, Moog, Moog.

 

[kalrith]

Thanks for the coupon tip. I read elsewhere about changing the sway bar bushings and links along with the rest of the parts, so I might add those to the list.

 

[DMarti]

Compare prices from Rock Auto to this place: autopartswarehouse.com

In my recent rebuild of my S10, I save allot using the later. Good luck!

 

[kalrith]

I've gotten most of the parts, and the rest will arrive tomorrow. I'm going to try to get a lot of work done this weekend. I went ahead and ordered the control arms instead of just the ball joints, because they only cost a little more.

Here's my question: do I have to compress struts to replace lower control arm?

The instructions at Autozone say that I don't have to:

Raise and safely support vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

Loosen the lower ball joint nut 3 or 4 turns.

Rap on spindle with a heavy hammer, just enough to separate the ball joint from the spindle. Leave the nut on the ball joint.

Support the spindle by a wire or other means to prevent excessive sagging of the upper control arm.

Matchmark the position of the camber adjustment cam.

WARNING
Do not hold tension strut, with a wrench on any curved part of strut. Use only the flat spots, as damage to the tension strut may result.

Hold the lower control arm strut by the flats with a wrench, then remove the nut retaining the lower control arm strut to the control arm bushing joint and discard.
​

Remove the lower shock attaching bolt and nut.

Remove the pivot (camber) bolt and nut.

Remove the nut from the lower ball joint, then remove lower control arm.

 

[5150MyU]

No, you should never have to compress a strut to remove the control arm.
BUT you should fully remove the ball joint nut and then reinstall it a few threads before you wack it free.

The reason being is because if it is really bad it will just turn in its socket-then you need to reseat it to get the nut off.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

you shouldnt HAVE to, but the bolts may come out easier if the suspension is sitting in the place it usually does when it has a load on it.