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89 Olds Cutlass Supreme

A

antyler

Golden Member
Lately my wifes car has been stalling on her, when she is doing speeds around town at about 30-40 mph. The engine just dies.

The car starts fine most times, every once in awhile it will stall when you start it, but i think thats just low idle/cold engine.

Anyone have any ideas what could make the car stall at higher rpm's like this?

I just replaced the fuel filter and the alternator is brand new, so i think that cancels out those areas.

Im told by a co worker that it could be the car computer.


any thoughts/suggestions?
 
I'd check the fuel pressure as the first step.

If it's not giving you a check engine light, I'd rather doubt it's the computer. I mean it is possible, but I wouldn't throw one in there on the off chance that that's the problem.

It's an old car. You could be having any number of electrical gremlins.

If you could hook up a fuel pressure guage that is long enough to peek out from under the hood at the base of the windshield where it could be seen, that would be great. If it was my car, that's what I would do. Obviously, if the fuel pressure drops off just before it stalls you know where to start.

If you gave us the mileage that could be helpful. And what size engine.



 
Originally posted by: boomerang
I'd check the fuel pressure as the first step.

If it's not giving you a check engine light, I'd rather doubt it's the computer. I mean it is possible, but I wouldn't throw one in there on the off chance that that's the problem.

It's an old car. You could be having any number of electrical gremlins.

If you could hook up a fuel pressure guage that is long enough to peek out from under the hood at the base of the windshield where it could be seen, that would be great. If it was my car, that's what I would do. Obviously, if the fuel pressure drops off just before it stalls you know where to start.

If you gave us the mileage that could be helpful. And what size engine.
Click to expand...

A 1989 model year car may not even have a "check engine" light.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: boomerang
I'd check the fuel pressure as the first step.

If it's not giving you a check engine light, I'd rather doubt it's the computer. I mean it is possible, but I wouldn't throw one in there on the off chance that that's the problem.

It's an old car. You could be having any number of electrical gremlins.

If you could hook up a fuel pressure guage that is long enough to peek out from under the hood at the base of the windshield where it could be seen, that would be great. If it was my car, that's what I would do. Obviously, if the fuel pressure drops off just before it stalls you know where to start.

If you gave us the mileage that could be helpful. And what size engine.
Click to expand...

A 1989 model year car may not even have a "check engine" light.

ZV
Click to expand...
They've been present on GM cars since 1981. Sometimes they are represented as a SES (Service Engine Soon) light.
 
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.

Engine size is 2.8.

So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
 
Originally posted by: antyler
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.
Click to expand...
might be the intank fuel pump filter aka "sock" and or the pump ..so checking the pressure would be a good idea but what I'd seen with what you are describing the plastic/nylon 'sock' has most likely disintegrated/ing but the the back and forth stop/start cycling of fuel/car movement covers/uncovers the pump's intake but most people won't just drop the tank and replace these parts until complete failure which usually is when the tank is completely topped off ..:roll:
Engine size is 2.8.
Click to expand...
chevrolet 🙂
So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
Click to expand...
goodluck 🙂
 
Originally posted by: antyler
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.

Engine size is 2.8.

So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
Click to expand...

It's not the plugs. That would cause a misfire, not make the engine just cut out.

I'm nearly certain you need to replace the fuel pump, but myself, I don't like to just throw parts at a problem. I like to determine what's wrong and replace or repair as necessary. Which is why I'm suggesting checking the fuel pressure in the manner I described.

I like what ScrapSilicon has to say about the sock and sloshing of fuel. Dropping the gas tank when it's full of fuel is a big job. You'll want to run it down near empty before tackling this job. Have help around too. The fuel that's left will start sloshing around as you drop the tank and that tank will seem to have a mind of it's own. Very hard to control with one person doing the job.
 
Fuel pump. I had the same thing happen to my 87 around the same speeds and restart just fine, that is, until it died completely. Replace asap while you can still drive to your repair shop, or at least the parts store.
 
Im going out on a limb here but, start the car, let it warm up for a bit, come to temp if it can at idle, then remove your oil cap and see if you have any smoke at all pouring out it, especially if you give it some rpm's. You may be recirculating blowby back through the system at such a high rate it just cant run anymore at times.

Also check and make sure you have not over filled the oil. Even over filling it by just a half a quart will make a engine run like shit, or not even start up. A older GM, with that many miles on the tick, Im sure she burns and leaks some oil, and I would go from there, because like any woman, if its cold and raining, and its a little low on the fluid do you think to care if they take the time to make sure not to over fill it? Hell no, I had a guy tow his Infiniti G20 to the shop because it wouldnt start and was very hard to turn over, he was 3 quarts over filled, like duh, the motor is swimming in oil at that point, his wife was checking the tranny stick and just kept adding oil till the car died.

But anyway, fuel filter/pump would have a hard time keeping up if clogged or not working right mainly at high revs like passing or super high speeds. Spark plugs would cause a miss fire, and or not run right, mostly when cold, it would misfire like hell then as it warms up run better till they finally give out. it should have a TPS sensor but that would trip the CEL, UNLESS, the CEL bulb is blown then you wont see the light 😉, one way to check that is when you go to start the car, if you dont see the yellow or red check engine stuff at start up then the lights are blown, or someone tampered with it.

But, my suggestions are way up there as a wtf. The blow by one should trip the CEL if it is working. the over filled oil will not. If there is anything else going bad at all, spark plugs, lean engine due to loss of fuel pressure, o2 out, what ever, that CEL light should be going off and the O2 sensor will be tripping the light due to rich or lean conditions, hence my over filled oil mention on a old, gm, with 180K.
 
Originally posted by: boomerang
Originally posted by: antyler
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.

Engine size is 2.8.

So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
Click to expand...

It's not the plugs. That would cause a misfire, not make the engine just cut out.

I'm nearly certain you need to replace the fuel pump, but myself, I don't like to just throw parts at a problem. I like to determine what's wrong and replace or repair as necessary. Which is why I'm suggesting checking the fuel pressure in the manner I described.

I like what ScrapSilicon has to say about the sock and sloshing of fuel. Dropping the gas tank when it's full of fuel is a big job. You'll want to run it down near empty before tackling this job. Have help around too. The fuel that's left will start sloshing around as you drop the tank and that tank will seem to have a mind of it's own. Very hard to control with one person doing the job.
Click to expand...


Im more willing to throw inexpensive parts at it then undertake a job like removing the gas tank lol.

I think ill give the fuel pump a try as i have already replaced the fuel filter with no luck.
 
Originally posted by: funboy42
Im going out on a limb here but, start the car, let it warm up for a bit, come to temp if it can at idle, then remove your oil cap and see if you have any smoke at all pouring out it, especially if you give it some rpm's. You may be recirculating blowby back through the system at such a high rate it just cant run anymore at times.
Click to expand...

seems like an easy thing to check, i may give this a shot.

Also check and make sure you have not over filled the oil. Even over filling it by just a half a quart will make a engine run like shit, or not even start up. A older GM, with that many miles on the tick, Im sure she burns and leaks some oil, and I would go from there, because like any woman, if its cold and raining, and its a little low on the fluid do you think to care if they take the time to make sure not to over fill it? Hell no, I had a guy tow his Infiniti G20 to the shop because it wouldnt start and was very hard to turn over, he was 3 quarts over filled, like duh, the motor is swimming in oil at that point, his wife was checking the tranny stick and just kept adding oil till the car died.
Click to expand...

almost positive this is not it, the oil level on it is pretty constant as i am usually the one checking it,and she wouldnt dump in a bunch without asking me. . .


But anyway, fuel filter/pump would have a hard time keeping up if clogged or not working right mainly at high revs like passing or super high speeds. Spark plugs would cause a miss fire, and or not run right, mostly when cold, it would misfire like hell then as it warms up run better till they finally give out. it should have a TPS sensor but that would trip the CEL, UNLESS, the CEL bulb is blown then you wont see the light 😉, one way to check that is when you go to start the car, if you dont see the yellow or red check engine stuff at start up then the lights are blown, or someone tampered with it.
Click to expand...

no lite coming on, and it doesnt misfire alot, it really only shuts off at certain rpm's. It actually seems to be running quite decently, and then just shuts off like i have mentioned.

But, my suggestions are way up there as a wtf. The blow by one should trip the CEL if it is working. the over filled oil will not. If there is anything else going bad at all, spark plugs, lean engine due to loss of fuel pressure, o2 out, what ever, that CEL light should be going off and the O2 sensor will be tripping the light due to rich or lean conditions, hence my over filled oil mention on a old, gm, with 180K.
Click to expand...

 
Originally posted by: funboy42
Im going out on a limb here but, start the car, let it warm up for a bit, come to temp if it can at idle, then remove your oil cap and see if you have any smoke at all pouring out it, especially if you give it some rpm's. You may be recirculating blowby back through the system at such a high rate it just cant run anymore at times.

Also check and make sure you have not over filled the oil. Even over filling it by just a half a quart will make a engine run like shit, or not even start up. A older GM, with that many miles on the tick, Im sure she burns and leaks some oil, and I would go from there, because like any woman, if its cold and raining, and its a little low on the fluid do you think to care if they take the time to make sure not to over fill it? Hell no, I had a guy tow his Infiniti G20 to the shop because it wouldnt start and was very hard to turn over, he was 3 quarts over filled, like duh, the motor is swimming in oil at that point, his wife was checking the tranny stick and just kept adding oil till the car died.

But anyway, fuel filter/pump would have a hard time keeping up if clogged or not working right mainly at high revs like passing or super high speeds. Spark plugs would cause a miss fire, and or not run right, mostly when cold, it would misfire like hell then as it warms up run better till they finally give out. it should have a TPS sensor but that would trip the CEL, UNLESS, the CEL bulb is blown then you wont see the light 😉, one way to check that is when you go to start the car, if you dont see the yellow or red check engine stuff at start up then the lights are blown, or someone tampered with it.

But, my suggestions are way up there as a wtf. The blow by one should trip the CEL if it is working. the over filled oil will not. If there is anything else going bad at all, spark plugs, lean engine due to loss of fuel pressure, o2 out, what ever, that CEL light should be going off and the O2 sensor will be tripping the light due to rich or lean conditions, hence my over filled oil mention on a old, gm, with 180K.
Click to expand...

My Chevy 3.5 V6 got overfilled by 1 Qt., didn't have any noticeable effect (hopefully no future seal issues) by a Chevy dealer
no less!. I like the idea of checking the blow-by, on a car of this age it could be an issue. I always check my oil level now after
it's changed, mistakes happen and extra oil can cause problems..Another possible culprit is electronic ignition module,
sometimes a semiconductor can become intermittent with changing temperature. Good luck and LUK how you make out.
 
Originally posted by: antyler
Originally posted by: boomerang
Originally posted by: antyler
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.

Engine size is 2.8.

So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
Click to expand...

It's not the plugs. That would cause a misfire, not make the engine just cut out.

I'm nearly certain you need to replace the fuel pump, but myself, I don't like to just throw parts at a problem. I like to determine what's wrong and replace or repair as necessary. Which is why I'm suggesting checking the fuel pressure in the manner I described.

I like what ScrapSilicon has to say about the sock and sloshing of fuel. Dropping the gas tank when it's full of fuel is a big job. You'll want to run it down near empty before tackling this job. Have help around too. The fuel that's left will start sloshing around as you drop the tank and that tank will seem to have a mind of it's own. Very hard to control with one person doing the job.
Click to expand...


Im more willing to throw inexpensive parts at it then undertake a job like removing the gas tank lol.

I think ill give the fuel pump a try as i have already replaced the fuel filter with no luck.
Click to expand...
Ummm, maybe I didn't make it clear. The fuel pump is in the gas tank.
 
Originally posted by: boomerang
Originally posted by: antyler
Originally posted by: boomerang
Originally posted by: antyler
I was told to look at the plugs, haven yet.

Check engine light is not coming on.

The mileage is 180000+ not sure the exact number.

Engine size is 2.8.

So im being told to check the fuel pressure, and the plugs. .
Click to expand...

It's not the plugs. That would cause a misfire, not make the engine just cut out.

I'm nearly certain you need to replace the fuel pump, but myself, I don't like to just throw parts at a problem. I like to determine what's wrong and replace or repair as necessary. Which is why I'm suggesting checking the fuel pressure in the manner I described.

I like what ScrapSilicon has to say about the sock and sloshing of fuel. Dropping the gas tank when it's full of fuel is a big job. You'll want to run it down near empty before tackling this job. Have help around too. The fuel that's left will start sloshing around as you drop the tank and that tank will seem to have a mind of it's own. Very hard to control with one person doing the job.
Click to expand...


Im more willing to throw inexpensive parts at it then undertake a job like removing the gas tank lol.

I think ill give the fuel pump a try as i have already replaced the fuel filter with no luck.
Click to expand...
Ummm, maybe I didn't make it clear. The fuel pump is in the gas tank.
Click to expand...

yeah i didnt pick that up. but i was told elsewhere that this is the case. i wont be tackling the drop of the fuel tank anytime soon. I think that im either going to check the blow by or the plugs first of all. or both.
 
well i put in six new plugs, and boy the back three. lets just say they were hidden. anyways, no stalling yet, maybe that did it, or maybe its just toying with us now
 
Well i haven had too much experience with spark plugs, but i showed them to my pops who has plenty of vehicle experience, he said they were pretty bad.

They were definately burned down quite a bit.

The car has had the new plugs for a little under a week now, and has only stalled one time to my knowledge.

It was stalling upwards of two to three times a day previously. (all in town driving)

It may just be a lucky coincidence, but I think that the plugs may have helped. They needed to be replaced either way.
 
Update: after changing the fuel filter and the spark plugs, i took it into the mechanic. Car will be fixed for 255 dollars. It was the brake booster. Every time my wife hit the car brakes, the car would die.
 
Originally posted by: antyler
Update: after changing the fuel filter and the spark plugs, i took it into the mechanic. Car will be fixed for 255 dollars. It was the brake booster. Every time my wife hit the car brakes, the car would die.
Click to expand...

I had that same issue on an old Cherokee. Vaccum pressure would quickly drop when I hit the brakes, which pointed to a ruptured diaphragm in the booster.
 
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