wingman04
Senior member
- May 12, 2016
- 393
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Well you have some good points and a nice chart. However every CPU Die produced has defects in different area, places of the transistors and traces that don't effect the Die running within Intel specification, so that makes every CPU produced use different voltage+amperage within a acceptable range.I can't find points of disagreement with Wingman.
There's just no spec anymore for "maximum safe VCORE." If I'm not mistaken, the last published spec was for a 32nm Intel Nehalem processor -- around 1.38V. What Wingman says about Intel's own "calculation" should also be seen in context of their "cost accounting." You would think -- if there were a published spec (and there is no more) -- they would attempt to guarantee a minimum of 3-year warranty returns just from people running the processor at stock speeds. On the other hand, we all agree that with no spec, the motherboard makers ship boards with "auto" settings that can "turbo-idle" to 1.39V, as does the OP's, shown from his screenies. It's the same thing I discovered about my ASUS board the first time I booted the system.
Here's a graph similar to the work IDontCare had published here at the forums (IDC is an illustrious member, who -- I think -- worked for TI). At first, I thought I recognized IDC's work, but the comma-decimal is a European convention, I think:
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Consider that I have a "binned" chip, and there was no such distinction for the testing for the graphed results. This is the same thing I'd noticed about IDC's work on the Sandy Bridge and possibly Ivy (in his de-lidding thread). Either typing in these voltage milestones for "Manual mode" fixed voltage or for "Adaptive mode's" "Voltage for extra turbo" on top of a low or 0.000V Offset can likely give you panic-free stress-testing, because the voltage is so close that stressing programs will catch the error and simply stop without a BSOD. Of course, what you type in isn't "what you get," so I do a double-check after BIOS "save and reboot" into BIOS to see what the VCORE monitor shows under "Manual Mode." I adjust to match the reported VCORE against the schedule.
Cheap trick? The only other option is to edge up the voltage from some seeming stability-minimum and suffer through BSODs. I've managed to tune in 4.6 and 4.7 Ghz with only three or four BSODs during the first few hours after initial boot-up.
Wingman notes there's "no such thing" as "safe overclocking voltage," but . . . "we been aroun', you know?!" through some several generations of processors. I've personally never damaged a processor, because I make my own rules based on the incomplete information I have, and I'd rather build a "great computer" than beat an "LN2 competition." My oldest Sandy Bridge has been running 24/7/365 @ either 4.6 or 4.7 -- variously. That's 5 years, running OC'd at those speeds.
The die-shrinks mean less surface area to transfer heat to the processor-cap and cooling device. Voltage defaults have declined with wattage defaults, but this polymer TIM thing -- it's a setback if you OC.
But there's nothing worrisome about the OP's temperatures under stress at stock speeds. With the Noctua single-tower cooler, he's fine to run the memory at XMP spec, and "sync all cores." Even that -- is slight overclock. Let me tell you about the WWII sergeant who trained his men in short-wave radio. He put some 4"-wide paint-filters on the radio adjustment knobs and painted nipples on them.
"Be patient. Be very, very gentle. . . . " [Where are the icons and smilies with this new interface? I needed to make a big toothy grin here.]
CORRECTION: Just to avoid misleading anyone, you have to recheck the reported voltage IN WINDOWS once you try typing in a fixed setting in BIOS, and watch for indications at turbo speed. You can get by with lower LLC -- maybe level 3 works for 4.5 Ghz. Ultimately, level 5 (on my chip anyway) seems to match the reported value under stress-load (little or no vDROOP), and is close to the VID needed to raise that voltage for the fixed setting.
If we think of electricity as water flowing through a pipe it can help us understand amps, volts. Amps would be the volume of water flowing through the pipe. The water pressure would be the voltage. This is a over simplified explanation of CPU tracer= (wire) like a light bulb filament (wire). If the filament is lager in diameter it would need more amps and less voltage for the same amount of light as having smaller filament in diameter using less amps and more voltage.
So with knowing all that information Intel uses VID (voltage identification) to set each individual CPU core voltage in the package. To recap if the CPU core has good electrical flow of Amps it will have a lower voltage VID for the same GHz as compared to a lower electrical flow through the CPU core = Amps it will have higher voltage VID for the same GHz.
let me explain the reason why inlet does not show voltage range to the public anymore is it was misused for overclocking, only the board partners have access to that information now. Intel raising an lowering the voltage is done with many variables that I have explained in this thread to achieve correct VID voltage to the VRM. Running out of specification voids the warranty, changing any voltage also the multiplier voids the warranty . If you purchase Performance Tuning Protection Plan link https://click.intel.com/tuningplan/ It will allow one CPU RMA.
So to sum it all up, not every CPU uses the same voltage+amps when overclocking to the same GHz and they don't overclock the same because of Die defects.
What are you using to measure the wattage? I directly connected to the PC to the killawatt meter then use a extension cord to connect to the outlet and it shows about 50 watts on my skylake Idle.You have been a great help really, for saving my time actually.
Well about that power saving thing, mine is averaging at 85-90 watts, on Idle, (with monitor off that is), I would love to lower it down even more, but its all right. I just found those options on BIOS, you know Performance, Balanced and Power saving mode, given by Asus obviously, don't know if they really work, on default Balanced one anyway, but my friend told me something else, not these profiles, whatever, not a big deal at all, and thanks once again.
Are the power savings options on Automatic? If they are, like I was saying they are already working. Turn them off and see how much power your saving.