6,000 watt car amp..........finally there making some amps with POWER :)

[Pacfanweb]

Ok, Mr Burns seems to know a bit about it.

So if you can get so much power with a class D amp, why to home stereos, which sound much better than car stereos, use class A?

Is class A power just so much more clear that it's worth it to put up with the heat, etc?

It just seems to me that there would be a market for a 1500+ watt home stereo receiver, unless there was some trade off in sound quality. I can't believe that all these dudes that put so much sound in their cars wouldn't want just as much in their homes. I would.

There has to be a reason that home systems use class A if it's much easier to get the wattage with class D. I'm thinking that with the class D, you must have to have raw power to make up for something else that class A's have.

I do know this: most car stereos, as has been stated in this thread, run very low ohm speaker resistance. This basically makes it easier on the amp because there's less resistance. Most home systems run 8 ohm speakers. They would require more raw power to push the voltage through there, which would explain the higher heat.
I'm missing something here. Maybe if someone who is and E.E. that knows about amplification sees this, they could clarify.

 

[chiwawa626]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: BillGates

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
They must have a different way of measuring wattage for car audio stuff. Does anyone really believe that thing has a true 6000 watts?

The highest dollar home stereo, which can eat that car stuff for lunch has under 1000 watts. McIntosh makes a mono, 1000 watt amp. You buy one for each channel. They are several thousand dollars each. They weigh about 90 lbs.

And that little car amp has 6000 watts? Right. Got to be a different rating system.

Different voltages and amperage I think, there are amps pushing over 1000 watts (real) (mostly peak) power all over car audio.

Car stereos are made to play loud - expensive home audio is meant to be loud but mostly focuses on sound quality.

*Don't forget the 10,000+ watt amps that sell at WalMart and on eBay for $39.99 or less! It's amazing that these companies have found a way to produce such insane numbers when other amps sell for hundreds of dollars more and can only brag about pushing a small percentage of what these incredible units do.*

Thanks for an actual intelligent answer. Yeah, I've seen those el-cheapo, flea market amps that have outrageous wattage claims.....I guess what they don't tell you is that rating is probably for a nanosecond peak, with 99% distortion, and the amp can REALLY put out about 25 watts on a continous basis.

I want so see proof that that amp can pump 6000 watts CONTINOUSLY. Not just a peak.

Its 6000 watts rms, read the link:

The first model to hit the market is rated to deliver over 6000 watts RMS, and utilizes a new patented amplifier technology to ensure clean and efficient power delivery.

 

[d33pt]

Class D is only good for Subs....all other speakers are run off class A amps.

 

[Lucky]

Class D's are much more efficient-80% I believe. Who cares if 50% is dissapated as heat in a home reciever. Also I believe they have certain accoustical properties that makes them suitable only for subs.

Can you please elaborate further about your RMS comments? How is RMS "bogus" and what is the "new" way?

 

[IGBT]

This incessant juvenile nonsensical psychosis with goofy sounding auto audio is a driving hazzard. Don't you guys realize when you are driving you are operating machinery in close proximity of other motorists,bicyclists, and pedestrians?? ehh???

 

[BillGates]

Originally posted by: IGBT
This incessant juvenile nonsensical psychosis with goofy sounding auto audio is a driving hazzard. Don't you guys realize when you are driving you are operating machinery in close proximity of other motorists,bicyclists, and pedestrians?? ehh???

* YAWN *

 

[scorp00]

RMS = peak * 1/sqrt(2) or peak * .707

RMS != continuous

so basically RMS power doesn't mean a whole lot. It's just the point of half power.

It can do 6000 watts because it's not expected to do more than 250 hertz if even that high. The huge amps for car audio are almost all for subwoofers.

The mcintosh amp is so expensive and puts out so little because it's expected to do 20-20,000 hertz, which is much harder to do.

 

[Mrburns2007]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Ok, Mr Burns seems to know a bit about it.

So if you can get so much power with a class D amp, why to home stereos, which sound much better than car stereos, use class A?

Is class A power just so much more clear that it's worth it to put up with the heat, etc?

It just seems to me that there would be a market for a 1500+ watt home stereo receiver, unless there was some trade off in sound quality. I can't believe that all these dudes that put so much sound in their cars wouldn't want just as much in their homes. I would.

There has to be a reason that home systems use class A if it's much easier to get the wattage with class D. I'm thinking that with the class D, you must have to have raw power to make up for something else that class A's have.

Class D and other switching amps *tend* to inject noise and sonic garbage into the midrange and highs making them not so good for "audiophiles" who want clean sounding midrange and sweet highs. There are some effecient made recievers like technics or other asian made recievers that use Class H designs. There usually sold at Best Buy or Circuit city. Also there's not that big of a need for a reciever with more then 100 watts of power per channel because most high end people would rather buy seperate components and the fact that they usually have 5 or 7 channels for home theater use, 7 channels equates to 700 watts!

Most people into high end components would rather a good pre/pro and then either a 5 channel amp or seperate 2-3 channel amps. It's much better to seperate the components from each in terms of heat, noise and sound quality.

I do know this: most car stereos, as has been stated in this thread, run very low ohm speaker resistance. This basically makes it easier on the amp because there's less resistance. Most home systems run 8 ohm speakers. They would require more raw power to push the voltage through there, which would explain the higher heat.
I'm missing something here. Maybe if someone who is and E.E. that knows about amplification sees this, they could clarify.

The 8 ohms versus 4 ohms isn't a real big factor, for instance the home reciever may produce 50 volts output with 2 amps of current which would give us a 100 watts. Voltage is what overcomes the impedance of the 8 ohm driver. In a car with 4 ohms or less the need for voltage isn't as great but it also has less voltage to work with since cars are 12 volts instead of 120 like in the home. Good car amps have a step up stage that will increase the voltage from 12 volts to say 35 volts, this helps breakdown the impedance of the speaker which is actually more complex then the 4 ohm load that it says. Speakers have different impedances at different frequencies and this can also be affected by the box that there in for subwoofers. The 8 ohm or 4 ohm load is a nominal impedance. Voltage is just as important as current is in driving the speaker.

There is two reasons that cars have huge cables, one is because of the amount of current flowing and the other is to insure no loss in voltage.