!.2Ghz Cel Temps

Compnut

Member
Apr 30, 2000
49
0
0
What are your temps running, overclocked 1.8v core Heatspreder on? Mine is running 45degc loaded 131fsb which is the max stable overclock, 75degf ambient. Just like to know what the average is. Appreciate any info.

Abit ST6
Suma MX video:cool:
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0
Have you ran prime yet cause at that speed and vcore my chip hits 40 deg. C tops for max temp. I also have the IHS removed. That is a normal temps but not a good temp for that speed. You are on the edge of puking. Get prime, that will tell you how stable she is. Also don't foget to set the true speed of the cpu in prime when you get it, if you get it.

Essentially what you are saying is the true FSB is at 132MHz cause the ST6 always sets it up 1MHz higher once you hit windows, or not? That is a decent OC but did you do a burnin? These chips here will really benifit from a good burnin' I think. 1.8v is the max for temperature control other wise once youget above 1600MHz and 1.8v you are asking for trouble unless you are running a H2O cooler and or crycooling. I think the l2 cache gets hot. I mean it is running at 1600MHz. That is smokin'.
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0
Must also add that I think this is more of a reasonable OC for this chip and not 1500MHz like many are getting with the TUSL-2. That board SUCKS;)
 

Compnut

Member
Apr 30, 2000
49
0
0
Thanks for the info, mine will run stable at 1600 at 60degf ambient and 40degc temp but have to go lower at 70degf ambient or higher. Ruined one removing the heatspreder by cutting one of the traces on the top of the cpu but probably will have to remove it on this one if I expect to run stable at 1600Mhz. Think I can do it ok this time if I am very careful.
 

Rmcky

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
358
0
0
Compnut, I wish you better luck than I had. I worked with mine the other day for 2 hours and never did get the thinnest razor blade I could find under the thing. I think some of them must have a thicker coat of RTV holding them on, because mine is exceptionally tight. The little opening they leave where the beads of glue meet is so tight, I can't even get the blade under in that spot and it has no glue at all. I think I've read of three other accounts, besides yours, of people destroying their chips by accidentally cutting the traces. I couldn't afford another one, so I stopped before I caused any damage, although it wasn't from lack of trying. I was pushing pretty doggoned hard on that blade. Got the cuts to prove it.

Back to your original question, I believe the heatspreader holds a lot of heat in until it gets to a certain temp and then let's it go. Mine Idles around 38-40C depending upon the ambient. The ambient is around 75F presently and I'm idling at 100f, even though my board is only reading 78F. Yesterday, the ambient was around 82F and I idled at 104F. But, under full load, the warmest I've seen it was 113F and that was only momentarily. Generally, no matter what the ambient, full load, running Prime 95 torture test along with a couple of other apps is 111F. Seems too hot to me, but I can't seem to crash it, even when I actually go to some trouble trying.

These temps are fairly accurate, because I've checked behind them with an external probe and the differences made sense. I haven't found a software idling program that works with these yet, as a matter of fact, all of the popular ones seem to do just the opposite and push the CPU utilization to 100% according to MBM, however I question that because the temps don't rise, they just don't fall, either.

I'm having to get used to looking down and seeing that 100-104 in MBM. I can stick my 1.1ghz Celeron in the same system and with an idle program, read 87F, where this one reads 100. However, under heavy load, both chips read virtually identical temps. I still think it all has to do with the heatspreader. Since I couldn't get mine off, I checked it to see how flat it was. I really wasn't flat at all, it was raised on all 4 edges and a little in the middle, over the slug. I lapped on it for over an hour, got it perfectly flat and polished it to a mirror finish. It's not silver any longer, but a bright and shiny bronze. Didn't help a bit. Stuck it back in hoping for at least a degree or two improvement, especially since it took a lot less thermal compound to get full coverage, but the temps remained constant.

I plan to order a better heatsink, although the one I'm using is plenty competent to run the 1.1 at 87F. It's a copper cored sink, but it has a round base and doesn't quite cover the entire heatspreader, so I plan to try a copper based one that does. I'm hoping for better results from that, but I really don't expect much improvement based on all the testing I've done.

BTW, I'm not running quite as nicely as you guys, actually haven't tried hitting 133, because of the heat situation. I'm running 1404 at default voltage. When I set her back down to default speed, the temps only go down 1 degree C or less. Actually, its more like 1 degree F, so I don't think my overclocking is having any negative effects on any of this.

If you happen to learn any tips on removing your heatspreader, please post them back here, because I would be very interested in hearing them.

Rick
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0
1400 @ default???????????? What HS are you using? That is a good defualt vcore speed but the whole heat situation is horrible. You are screwed now if you needed to RMA the chip if something happens to it(And I mean to Intel.). As I said rmky and compnut since rmcky is only at 1400 his temps are nto going to affect it much but when you get up around 1600MHz for me anyway it was the difference of being totally stable at say 35 deg. C at load and a vcore of 1.8. I accomplished this by keeping the window open. I then closed the window and it dies around 40 deg. C. I then upped the vcore to 1.825 and it was stable but running hot like aournd 43 @ load versus 40 max @ 1.825. This is why I think 45 is on the edge for this chip around 1600MHz. If I let my chip get much higher it dies!
 

Compnut

Member
Apr 30, 2000
49
0
0
Removed the heatspreder without problem this time, just layed the single edge razor blade as flat as I could get it and started at the corners and worked it around, took about five minutes. The nickle plating on the heatspredder dulls the blade fast so you need to get it just below the hsp but not touching the top of the cpu. You can do it if you are careful and don't get in a hurry. Need to get a good copper heatsink or a heatsink with a coller plat at the bottom.:)
 

snow patrol

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2000
8,377
0
76
chem - how much difference does decent case cooling really make? I'm still at about 44-45c with mine at 1600mhz, 1.725V...Wanna reach 40 really. Will a couple of 80mms in the side blowing air in and one at the top sucking air out make a difference?>
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0


<< Removed the heatspreder without problem this time, just layed the single edge razor blade as flat as I could get it and started at the corners and worked it around, took about five minutes. The nickle plating on the heatspredder dulls the blade fast so you need to get it just below the hsp but not touching the top of the cpu. You can do it if you are careful and don't get in a hurry. Need to get a good copper heatsink or a heatsink with a coller plat at the bottom.:) >>




Haha we have another winner.(DING~ DING) Told you it easy huh. Thing is though i would test the chip at low speeds and temps before you commit it too 1600MHz. Did you read the article on how to burnin a chip right. I ran my chip for 14 hours with cryo cooling and before that it was like 2 days at 600MHz and a 50MHz fsb at maximum vcore. Now that you have the IHS off I will PM you on what to do and what not to do. Hopefully I am not too late;)
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0
Well it looks like your PM is not working or I am not worthy or something so I will tell you here. You need to make sure your HS has optimum contact with your as always and when i said test at lower temps and vcores I say that because I am pretty sure the thermal shutdown features may not work at these speeds and vcores without the IHS on it thus saying make sure you have optimum contact before pushing it too high other wise you may start up your computer to find that the HS was not touching and it could die on you like the ATHLONS do when the HS is not seated right. Trust me you will not be sorry if you take the time to do this. Also as you have said you need a real good copper HS next to the small core as Aluminum will not cut it, maybe you found that out already? My Aluminum HS did not make much differnce with the IHS on or off as much as having copper on the core did. I saw about a 7 deg. C drop in temps with the alpha pal copper slugged HS versus the aluminum HS on it. Copper is the only way to go no matter the situation anymore. Future chips will require this type of cooler anyway is my thought cause the smaller the core gets and the faster it goes the better and faster thermally conducting material it needs to wick the heat away from the core. That is why all the top dogs for coolers are copper. Remember what I said make sure your HS is attatched at even say 66fsb and 1.3v casue you don;t want to kill it if it is not right on. default is probably still okay for this but to be sure I would go lower and also have you checked out the this article on how to do the burning in correctly.

http://people.freenet.de/s.urfer/conditioning.htm

Wow that link is not working anymore. Well anyway what the link said is that you need your vcore maxed and your chip speed at the slowest it will go while having temps as cold as possible. What ever method you can do to et your temps cold the better. If you can only get temps to nromal load temps then at that point that is better than OC'n during the burnin cause likely it will do nothing for you. Even default speed will be better than OC'n during the burnin but still not as good as a slower speed. My ST6 allowed me to run my chip at 600MHz with a 50MHz fsb and the PCI speed being 25MHz. Way below specs I though until I looked at a old pentium 100MHz chip MOBO and it had a setting fo rthe POCI bus to run at 25MHz, 30MHz and 33MHz so it seems even 25MHz is within specs I guess;) If the modern boards will run this low is beyond me though at OC'd speeds. I know ti did when the chip was seriously underclocked to 50MHz fsb and had a 25MHz PCI bus. Food for thought.


Also here is a link to a new bios for the ST6 so it will officially support the celery 1.2GHz.

ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/bios/st6/st663.exe
 

Compnut

Member
Apr 30, 2000
49
0
0
You can set the fsb in windows by useing cpufsb fine tuneing option, you need to be above the speed where the bus dividers change, at 129fsb I think. May work lower if you change the bus dividers in the bios but I havent tried yet. Most of the settings between the 1Mhz steps won't work but some will. If it locks up you just turn off the power and back on. You can get cpufsb here http://www.podien.onlinehome.de/:)
 

chemhaqr

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
351
0
0


<< chem - how much difference does decent case cooling really make? I'm still at about 44-45c with mine at 1600mhz, 1.725V...Wanna reach 40 really. Will a couple of 80mms in the side blowing air in and one at the top sucking air out make a difference?> >>




Good case ventilation will definatly help your temps. It dropped mine like 3 deg. C when I added two 120mm's running 7v.