2007 Mazda 6 keyless entry doesn't work.

[Matt2]

I bought a used 2007 Mazda 6 sedan almost one year ago exactly. It's a great car, but my stupid clicker hasn't worked for eleven of the twelve months I've owned the car. It's not a huge issue as I've been getting along fine without, just a really annoying hassle.

When I bought the car the clicker didn't work at all. The dealership replaced the battery and it worked fine for about three days until the battery went dead again. I bought another cr1620 battery and again, it worked fine. Two days later it was dead again. I bought another battery and it worked for about six hours until the clicker was dead again. After the third battery the clicker ceased to function completely even with a new battery. From then on I just ignored it and used the key, but I'd really to find out what is going on with it.

Looking at the circuit board doesn't reveal any physical damage at all. The metal contacts are all intact, no discoloration to the board, nothing. The fact that the clicker worked for short periods of time with new battries leads me to believe that the clicker itself was not damaged by ESD. Could there be a short somewhere? Is there anyway to find out exactly what's going on?

I'm just looking for some insight, hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction. Google turns up nothing but garbage and I have a really bad habit of locking my keys in the car without the keyless entry.

Thanks.

 

[PhoKingGuy]

Its still under warranty? Let the dealer fix it

 

[Matt2]

Definitely not under warranty and Mazda is gonna want an arm and a leg for a factory clicker.

 

[alpineranger]

Get one online or get a used one from an owner's forum. The latter is what I did when I installed the system, receiver and all for my personal car.

 

[pray4mojo]

if you decide to buy a new key, heres how you program it

Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.

Step 2: Lock and unlock the driver’s door using the power door lock switch on the door.

Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.

Step 5: Open and close the driver’s door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).

Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.

Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.

Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) twice. Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.

Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!

 

[pray4mojo]

dbl

 

[StageLeft]

Hammer that one on your garage floor. Get a new one.

 

[Gibson486]

if you decide to buy a new key, heres how you program it

Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.

Step 2: Lock and unlock the driver’s door using the power door lock switch on the door.

Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.

Step 5: Open and close the driver’s door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).

Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.

Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.

Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) twice. Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.

Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!

What if you need to program the key itself?

 

[fleshconsumed]

With my Nissan the key can only be programmed at a dealer. Remote, however, is separate from the key and can be programmed by the car owner. I got two for cheap from ebay and programmed them myself instead of forking out a small fortune to the dealer. Mazda is probably the same way.

 

[Gibson486]

With my Nissan the key can only be programmed at a dealer. Remote, however, is separate from the key and can be programmed by the car owner. I got two for cheap from ebay and programmed them myself instead of forking out a small fortune to the dealer. Mazda is probably the same way.

Thank You Mazda I know for next time....when you buy a car, make sure the spare works also I can only imagine the price they will charge. They are probably going to claim that it requires resetting the whole system and that it takes 2 hours @ $110/hr.

 

[JDub02]

i had to buy a new key/remote for my Mazda6. i let my mother borrow my car and she lost the key. it was ~$75 from the dealer.

 

[LTC8K6]

With my Jeep, the remote is the key and I can program it.

There is an actual physical key stored inside the fob, but I would only ever use it if the remote quit working or the vehicle would not let me in for some reason. It's just a plain key that anyone can copy. Opening the door with it will set off the alarm, and it cannot start the engine, only open the driver's door.

 

[Zenmervolt]

With my Jeep, the remote is the key and I can program it.

There is an actual physical key stored inside the fob, but I would only ever use it if the remote quit working or the vehicle would not let me in for some reason. It's just a plain key that anyone can copy. Opening the door with it will set off the alarm, and it cannot start the engine, only open the driver's door.

Wow. That would be a deal-breaker for me. I don't trust those electronic fobs enough not to have the option of starting the engine with a physical key. Its bad enough that most cars today have eliminated the keyhole on the passenger door.

ZV

 

[PhoKingGuy]

Wow. That would be a deal-breaker for me. I don't trust those electronic fobs enough not to have the option of starting the engine with a physical key. Its bad enough that most cars today have eliminated the keyhole on the passenger door.

ZV

I think thats a consequence of the Daimler days, all Mercs and BMWs are like this. Nissan and VW are starting to do it as well

 

[Zenmervolt]

Thank You Mazda I know for next time....when you buy a car, make sure the spare works also I can only imagine the price they will charge. They are probably going to claim that it requires resetting the whole system and that it takes 2 hours @ $110/hr.

If the key is part of the fob, it can usually be taken apart and removed and installed in a working fob. There is very likely a way for you to transplant rhe metal key into a new fob.

ZV

 

[LTC8K6]

Wow. That would be a deal-breaker for me. I don't trust those electronic fobs enough not to have the option of starting the engine with a physical key. Its bad enough that most cars today have eliminated the keyhole on the passenger door.

ZV

The fob also uses RFID, I believe, so it will start the engine even if the battery in the fob is dead. The battery is only for the remote functions, I believe. It's made by Siemens and is exactly the same as the one used on a Mercedes.

Came from the Daimler-Chrysler days, I guess.

 

[Zenmervolt]

The fob also uses RFID, I believe, so it will start the engine even if the battery in the fob is dead. The battery is only for the remote functions, I believe. It's made by Siemens and is exactly the same as the one used on a Mercedes.

Came from the Daimler-Chrysler days, I guess.

My friend's CLK is the same way. I still don't trust it. I'm a bit paranoid that way though, I don't trust delayed dome lights either; I'll stand outside the car until the dome light turns off just to make sure something hasn't gone wrong that would leave me with a dead battery in the morning.

ZV

 

[LTC8K6]

I take it you don't trust those battery-saver circuits, either. :biggrin:

The ones that turn off the dome or trunk or glove box lights even if you leave them switched on.

I test them every once in a while... :biggrin:

 

[Zenmervolt]

I take it you don't trust those battery-saver circuits, either. :biggrin:

The ones that turn off the dome or trunk or glove box lights even if you leave them switched on.

I test them every once in a while... :biggrin:

I will admit that I have inadvertently tested those circuits in rental cars, but I still don't like to rely on them.

ZV

 

[SJP0tato]

What if you need to program the key itself?

Do you have the remote with the "switchblade" key, or the credit card "smart key" type?

If it's the switchblade kind, you can get a new electronic part on ebay or wherever, and just remove the key portion to snap onto the new one. There's a little clip inside the switchblade part you press on to separate the physical key from the base. Once that's done just program the new remotes to work with your car and you're set.