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$200 for a head job! Good price?

B

blahblah99

Platinum Member
The heads were off the a 91 acura legend, v6. The guy quoted me $200 for complete head work on the two heads. Is this a fair deal?
 
Originally posted by: blahblah99
The heads were off the a 91 acura legend, v6. The guy quoted me $200 for complete head work on the two heads. Is this a fair deal?
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Thats not bad if that includes new seals for the Valves.
 
The last set of V6 head I had serviced for a customer were $85 a piece, but if she's really hot I don't mind paying a little extra.

The basic service of head repair, doesn't include valves or seat replacement. So what does this quote include, and why are you having this done?
 
Its a complete head job, which included surfacing/milling the head, valve grind, valve stem seal replacement (I provided the seals, which costed like $22 for the whole set), valve adjusted, and a cleanup after everything's done. 🙂 The car overheated and its got over 200k miles so I figured it's time for a rebuild.
 
$200 Sounds reasonable to me. Dover Heads (Orange Park Florida) just charged me $115 to completely go through the head on my 2.2 Accord.
 
Then that a fair price, without knowing where you live. Out here in the sticks services tend to be a little cheaper, but so is the work.
 
3 angle valve job, cleaning and magnafluxing right? Maybe even a little port work too I would hope.
 
Missed the overheating part. Make sure that the block mating surfaces are flat. If they aren?t the will leak you will never get a good seal.
 
I didn't really ask the guy for details, but he seems cool. I was missing 2 valve stem seals and he said he'll find them and toss them in for me. He just said "complete head work". I asked does that include valve job, surfacing, and adjustment and he said yes. He does a good job as I go to him often and get back quality finished product. Its just that this $200 kinda threw me off.

How would I know if the block surface is good? I just scraped off the old gasket very carefully with a razor blade.
 
Teh block surface very rarely will get warped or deformed. One way to check is just take a straight edge and lay across the top at various points. If you see any gaps that shouldn't be there that will pose a problem. I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the block though.
 
Get a long flat piece of metal that you know is not warped. Measure corner to corner (crosswise) and use a feeler gauge (0.001?) between it and each deck to see if it has any slop. Ask the head shop guy about the proper clearances and measuring method.

If the clearances are too great then you might want to take the block to a machine shop to have it milled flat. THEN remember to get the appropriate thickness of head gasket to maintain the proper compression ratio and valve train geometry.
 
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