2 coats of water based paint in a steamy bathroom on bare drywall. No primer...

[Locut0s]

It's mold resistant though. And yet it looks not that bad. Obviously it wasn't steamy when we painted. Not the way I would have done it but my parents just want to get it over with. What with all the little fuck-ups the contractors made (sloppy work).

Edit1:Like I said, not the way I would have done it. In my own bathroom we painted over an older coat of paint which was first sanded down so that one should be better. Anyway I wanted to renovate my bathroom myself before but it was decided that that would not be a good idea. Probably for the best as I have 0 experience but I was going to do it really slowly and look up all the work (plumbing, tiling and everything) on the net and do it right. Maybe I would have done a better job than these sloppy guys? We will never know now. So since they went this route I don't really care all that much what happens :twisted: Actually that's not 100% true, I'm just tired of arguing.

Edit2: The paint tin does mention primer only needed on new wood but I'm guessing that it should be used on new plaster as well.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

It's mold resistant though. And yet it looks not that bad. Obviously it wasn't steamy when we painted. Not the way I would have done it but my parents just want to get it over with. What with all the little fuck-ups the contractors made (sloppy work).

More sloppy work. Without primer, the paint will peel and soon. There is no easy button. You either pay now or pay a whole lot more later.

 

[BeauJangles]

More sloppy work. Without primer, the paint will peel and soon. There is no easy button. You either pay now or pay a whole lot more later.

Especially in a bathroom.

I never understood the mentality of "we want it done now" when it comes to cutting dramatic corners. You're going to wind up doubling your work by not priming.

 

[FoBoT]

There is no easy button.

luckily there is a bacon button

 

[Locut0s]

More sloppy work. Without primer, the paint will peel and soon. There is no easy button. You either pay now or pay a whole lot more later.

Hay like I said, not the way I would have done it. In my own bathroom we painted over an older coat of paint which was first sanded down so that one should be better. Anyway I wanted to renovate my bathroom myself before but it was decided that that would not be a good idea. Probably for the best as I have 0 experience but I was going to do it really slowly and look up all the work (plumbing, tiling and everything) on the net and do it right. Maybe I would have done a better job than these sloppy guys? We will never know now. So since they went this route I don't really care all that much what happens :twisted: Actually that's not 100% true, I'm just tired of arguing.

 

[kalrith]

Especially in a bathroom.

I never understood the mentality of "we want it done now" when it comes to cutting dramatic corners. You're going to wind up doubling your work by not priming.

Same here. "We want it done now" never results in less work. Either the OP is going to have to redo this in the near future, or it will have to be redone before selling the place. But at least it's "done now!"

Edit: I'm going through and remodeling an old house. I've learned most of the stuff through doing, reading on the net, or getting advice from people I know (although I am pretty handy with stuff like that). The house I'm living in now was done by "professionals," and I'm doing a better job myself at the old house than they did at my new house.

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

the situation isn't as dire as some would have you believe. The paint will not peel off, but you will likely notice a bigger difference in the sheen of the paint between the paper of the sheetrock and the taped joints.

 

[daw123]

the situation isn't as dire as some would have you believe. The paint will not peel off, but you will likely notice a bigger difference in the sheen of the paint between the paper of the sheetrock and the taped joints.

Here's some paint application guides from Dulux: http://www.icipaints.co.uk/support/literature/applier_guides.jsp

You should download and read: Dulux Trade Professional Product Guide (T28155)

You may not necessarily be using a Dulux paint system, but its still useful info.

 

[SunSamurai]

Didnt I just post in a thread liek this a few weeks ago? Deja Vu.

 

[Anonemous]

No primer already mixed in with the paint? (at they do it for you when you get it from home depot)

 

[mugs]

No primer already mixed in with the paint? (at they do it for you when you get it from home depot)

Only some paints at Home Depot are paint+primer. Their regular paints are just paint.

 

[Imp]

Don't you want an oil based paint to limit/prevent moisture from getting into the walls, which partially causes peeling?

We have one bathroom with oil based, no peeling after 3 years. The other one is peeled bad cause some dumbass (daddy) didn't like the smell of the oil based paint, and insisted on it being water based.

 

[DrPizza]

Bathroom? Drywall?

I hope you got the water resistant drywall (greenboard).

Regardless, do a job right, or do a job over in about a year after you've learned your lesson.

 

[Elbryn]

Bathroom? Drywall?

I hope you got the water resistant drywall (greenboard).

Regardless, do a job right, or do a job over in about a year after you've learned your lesson.

why go greenboard nowadays? why not use the fiberglass backed drywall? that's what i did in my bathroom remodel. no paper at all to feed mold. a bit itchy when sanding/installing but thems the breaks i guess.

 

[Vette73]

why go greenboard nowadays? why not use the fiberglass backed drywall? that's what i did in my bathroom remodel. no paper at all to feed mold. a bit itchy when sanding/installing but thems the breaks i guess.

I used the fiberglass drywall in my bathroom remodel, love the stuff. But now lowes does not carry it so it harder to find and more costly.

 

[StageLeft]

I'll probably use green in my basement. I've heard little about the fiberglass stuff. You should be running the fan any time you take a shower or bath. Also rock out with your caulk out and seal up the leaks and gaps around bathtub and shower.

 

[Vette73]

I'll probably use green in my basement. I've heard little about the fiberglass stuff. You should be running the fan any time you take a shower or bath. Also rock out with your caulk out and seal up the leaks and gaps around bathtub and shower.

Its made by GP and is called DensArmor.
http://www.gp.com/build/Product.aspx?pid=4659

Also has a little fiberglass in the gypsum as well so its stronger and easier to cut and snap IMO.

 

[StageLeft]

Its made by GP and is called DensArmor.
http://www.gp.com/build/Product.aspx?pid=4659

Also has a little fiberglass in the gypsum as well so its stronger and easier to cut and snap IMO.

That stuff looks good. Apparently it can withstand weather for a while? Still, is it really necessary for the extra expense vs greenboard?

 

[Vette73]

That stuff looks good. Apparently it can withstand weather for a while? Still, is it really necessary for the extra expense vs greenboard?

Depends. For a basement I might go out and pay the extra cost as I had a leak in my roof while doing our addiation and the fiberglass drywall looks fine. The paint peeled off in that spot but the drywall is still hard and no mold on it. Just put some new primer/paint on it and its been good for about a month now.

For our new kitchen/bath add on I will probable go with the reg green stuff since lowes stopped carrying the fiber stuff the price is to much at the other dealers. Think almost 1/3 more cost on top of the extra green board cost. 1 place wants over $600 for the fiber stuff (1 msf) while reg plain white drywall goes for $275.

 

[StageLeft]

I think the green is perhaps 25% more or so than regular FWIW.

 

[Vette73]

I think the green is perhaps 25% more or so than regular FWIW.

Yea the price list i have here is...
1/2" Drywall per 1 MSF (1000sq/ft)
Reg $275
Green $375
Fiberglass $625

Lowes had the fiberglass around the same price as green, a little higher. So we went with that. I would love to use it again but unless it is a known wet spot, like a basement, then I can't justify the price.

 

[Thump553]

the situation isn't as dire as some would have you believe. The paint will not peel off, but you will likely notice a bigger difference in the sheen of the paint between the paper of the sheetrock and the taped joints.

My personal experience is that it will start peeling in two or three months, tops. It took us forever to straighten this out. A lot of sanding & spackling then priming, then repainting.

 

[GlacierFreeze]

It's always a good idea to use a primer. Half-assing if not. Since you didn't, it'll start peeling eventually. Might take a few months or years, but have fun spending even more time and money, than you would have doing it right the first time, by having to redo it later.

 

[DrPizza]

Even at twice the cost of regular wall board, the fiberglass is just a tiny fraction of an overall remodeling cost. Are you really going to sink $1000 into a bathroom remodeling project, and skimp on what amounts to the largest surface in the room, just to save $50?? Greenboard is probably "good enough" - but if available, then I agree, go with the fiberglass.


edit: And that $1000 can just as easily be $25,000 for a bathroom remodeling project. In that case, then it's even sillier to try to cut $50 from the cost by going cheap on one of the most important materials for the long term integrity of the room.

 

[StageLeft]

Even at twice the cost of regular wall board, the fiberglass is just a tiny fraction of an overall remodeling cost. Are you really going to sink $1000 into a bathroom remodeling project, and skimp on what amounts to the largest surface in the room, just to save $50?? Greenboard is probably "good enough" - but if available, then I agree, go with the fiberglass.

Ask my builder. He knows all about skimping to save a few bucks.