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1911 modders: need recs on any/all aftermarket parts

gorcorps

aka Brandon
I have a standard Para Ordnance 1911 that has been a great start into the 1911 world. After tearing it apart several times over and seeing how the trigger system works, I'm fairly confident I can install whatever parts I need to... though final finishing (if necessary) might be done by an outside source.

So, I was just wondering what you guys have done to make a noticeable difference in the feel of your 1911s. I've taken out the firing pin block already, and I'm mainly focused on the trigger feel. I want to reduce the takeup it currently has (which doesn't seem to be easily attained with my current trigger) and reduce the trigger pull weight. I wouldn't be against changing recoil springs and such either if anybody noticed a major difference, but I think the recoil control is quite good already.
 
Wolf springs are good
Ed Brown, Wilson Combat, 10-8, EGW, Harrison Design, and Cylinder and Slide are all good parts companies
 
I have been wondering about the Sig "Action Enhancement Package". It sounds like you are on a similar track. I plan on getting this package in about 3 months or so and I let you know.
 
If you need advice about parts you should subscribe to a gun forum.
I like vagunforum.net. Most of us would rather argue than help.
 
If you need advice about parts you should subscribe to a gun forum.
I like vagunforum.net. Most of us would rather argue than help.

Probably true... I was just looking for quick answers which I got.

What I have currently on my list is:
C&S super match trigger kit (3.5lb trigger)

Nighthawk custom match trigger

Wilson Combat extended slide stop (because my thumbs are stubby making it hard to use.

Oversize button mag release (mine has always been a bit heavy, and it small)

Total right around $220 to turn a pretty good gun into what should be a damn awesome one.
 
Just remember, recoil springs have a limited life based on round count. I swap my 4" Kimber spring out every 500rds. Read your manual and see what it recommends.

The extended slide stop is a good idea, just watch how long it is. I shoot 'thumb over safety' and my thumb would hit the extended slide stop and not allow it to lock the slide back on the last round. If you have shorter fingers/thumb you'll probably be OK.

My Kimber does have an extended safety that I DO like... something else to think about.
 
Just remember, recoil springs have a limited life based on round count. I swap my 4" Kimber spring out every 500rds. Read your manual and see what it recommends.

The extended slide stop is a good idea, just watch how long it is. I shoot 'thumb over safety' and my thumb would hit the extended slide stop and not allow it to lock the slide back on the last round. If you have shorter fingers/thumb you'll probably be OK.

My Kimber does have an extended safety that I DO like... something else to think about.

Every 500 rounds? That seems... Absurd. I'd be changing it every other week.
 
Kimber specs every 800 rounds, I err on the side of caution and swap a new one in every 500rds. (A standard 5" 1911, Kimber specs every 1500rds)

Absurd? The only thing I would find absurd is beating my $1000 pistol to a premature death because I wanted to save $10 on a spring.

I also like reliability... it's one of my carry pieces. Just saying.
 
A reliable gun <> costs.

Sadly, I feel most of our hardened shooters make major compromises.

Fortunately, I don't think most of them will ever have to draw their weapon.
 
Send it to these folks...
american-guns-discovery-tv-show.jpg
 
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Kimber specs every 800 rounds, I err on the side of caution and swap a new one in every 500rds. (A standard 5" 1911, Kimber specs every 1500rds)

Absurd? The only thing I would find absurd is beating my $1000 pistol to a premature death because I wanted to save $10 on a spring.

I also like reliability... it's one of my carry pieces. Just saying.

thats crazy. 800 rounds is nothing. let me guess, they recommend you use their springs only also? nothing more than a money grabbing gimmick (especially coming from kimber).

yes, you should replace springs, but after several thousand, not after several hundred.
 
I have or had 4 various 1911 style guns. A Colt G70 Series 70(newest to me), Dan Wesson Valor, Kimber Tactical Pro, and a SA Champion LW Loaded. Also have a Dan Wesson Guardian .45 in the family.

If you are having issues, change the springs and have good mags that work for your gun.The Kimber had about 2000 rnd from me in it with no spring chance and no problems. The Colt I have only shot about 200 from it with zero problems. Same for the rest. Buy the correct springs and have them around, but ensure you wear out what you have already.

Please ensure you do know what you are doing messing with the fire control parts. Lots of critical angles for a good crisp pull.

Most 1911s I have dealt with were military and were intersting in the least to shoot. Had a slide stop actually fall out while shooting and the slide dropped off the front of the frame. Old Gunny laughs, picks it up and reassembles it after I find the slide stop. I qualified with it. Scary

http://forums.1911forum.com/ is a good place to start reading.
 
thats crazy. 800 rounds is nothing. let me guess, they recommend you use their springs only also? nothing more than a money grabbing gimmick (especially coming from kimber).

yes, you should replace springs, but after several thousand, not after several hundred.

You do it your way, I'll do it mine.
 
PSA: Mili-tec really helps. My LCP, P238, P290 and Glock 17 all operate much smoother because of it. I see no reason why it wouldnt help a 1911.
 
best "mod" i ever made was using wilson combat mags. stock kimber mags jammed with hp ammo and ive NEVER had that problem with the wilson combat, also you get an extra round capacity

I dont mod my 1911 but my Kimber Custom II has most of the key features you hit: extended slide release, grips, mag release, adj trigger

does the para have a polished ramp? that really helps with feeding hp ammo too

imo 1911s never should jam on fmj, but you need to make some mods to feed hp reliably

after these mods id go for a match barrel
 
best "mod" i ever made was using wilson combat mags. stock kimber mags jammed with hp ammo and ive NEVER had that problem with the wilson combat, also you get an extra round capacity

I dont mod my 1911 but my Kimber Custom II has most of the key features you hit: extended slide release, grips, mag release, adj trigger

does the para have a polished ramp? that really helps with feeding hp ammo too

imo 1911s never should jam on fmj, but you need to make some mods to feed hp reliably

after these mods id go for a match barrel

modern 1911s shouldn't jam on HP either, unless they were made specifically to be exactly like a WWI/WWII model.
 
modern 1911s shouldn't jam on HP either, unless they were made specifically to be exactly like a WWI/WWII model.

Im not sure what you mean by modern and if thats true

A barebones springfield gi wont feed all types of hp reliably. the 1911 was designed for fmj and specs for it. higher end 1911s that have more frills (like a kimber or higher end springfield) usually have the changes necessary to reliably feed hollow points, which is mostly an extended and polished feed ramp. magazine design also helps as i mentioned with the wilson combat mags. my brand new kimber custom II couldnt feed all hollow points reliably because of be magazine. some worked okay but some failed to feed jamming up on the ramp. If you do some research online you can find 1911 friendly hollow points and ones like the corbon powerball or other fully enclosed bullets (i think federal makes a tmj "hollow point") usually work well in even a stock 1911

OPs 1911 sounds pretty plain if he is talking about adding an extended slide release and adj trigger, which is why im asking if it has a polished feed ramp

there are so many variations on 1911 design that i dont like to take these common modifications for granted

i also recommend against 180 gr ammo or lighter in a 1911 unless its +P because you could need a lighter recoil spring to cycle reliably. especially if its cheap reload ammo thats loaded light anyway

no 1911 is the most fool proof gun on the market today. they are all typically more sensitive to ammo than some other guns. but when you find a combination that you know works its a beautiful thing 🙂

the extreme accuracy achievable by the 1911 is also a direct result to enhancements made possible by new manufacturing technologies applied to this 100 yr old design. take something designed so ruggedly and apu modern manufacturing tolerances with a match barrel and you have a gun unlike any other semi auto on the market. but a stock gi model or clone leaves much to be desired in both accuracy reliability and ergonomics.

its hard to say what mods are best for a 1911 without knowing the application. its almost like the "is this a good computer build threads" here all the time. there are certain modifications that are always helpful but beyond those few it becomes a situation of compromises.
 
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I also think its hard to beat a Kimber or similar gun for value. you may be able to match it with ergonomic upgrades for 2-300 but then you'll still probably have worse accuracy, when a total kimber new is only 800something

However theres always somethin cool about having your own creation 🙂 I guess it depends on how much work you can really safely do yourself. 2-300 in upgrades can easily turn into 5-600 if they need to be professionally installed

also as a warning once you start modding you wont be able to stop. next thing you know youre handloading and ordering a 460 rowland conversion kit as well as boatloads of 230 gr lead semi wad cutters for your plinking 😛
 
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