• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

100 Fuji CDRs @ BB week of June 1 for $10 AMIR

Page 3 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
just curious, but which UPC do you give them for this deal? the outter one on the shrink wrap? or the 2 inner ones on the spindle? or did some of you just give them all 3?😛

im gonna see about calling tomorrow about this to make sure...but i wanted to hear 2nd and 3rd opinions... thanks

edit: ok nm. i just noticed there are no UPCs on the inner spindles. doh.
 
Just got my TY CDs 🙂

Just have to move them to the old spindle top cases. I hate the new design, the CDs weigh so much that when you lift the cases, the bottom falls out.
 
Um, dumb question here, but how do i fill out the rebate form if i purchased online? I don't have a receipt like the one you get in a store. Anyways, any information about this would help me a bunch.



-Nate
 
Originally posted by: RedCross
Um, dumb question here, but how do i fill out the rebate form if i purchased online? I don't have a receipt like the one you get in a store. Anyways, any information about this would help me a bunch.



-Nate
Click to expand...

i think you can just use the packing slip


 
Originally posted by: RedCross
Um, dumb question here, but how do i fill out the rebate form if i purchased online? I don't have a receipt like the one you get in a store. Anyways, any information about this would help me a bunch.



-Nate
Click to expand...
You can also print out a nice, 1-page official receipt through your order history. For best results, be sure to click on "create printed copy" or something like that.

Be aware that Best Buy and BestBuy.com is probably the only big retailer that does *separate* rebate promotions for their B&M stores and the BestBuy.com web site. You cannot use the online rebate form for in-store purchases, nor vice versa. In-store pickup orders are still BestBuy.com orders when it comes to rebate fulfillment.
 
Last chance to order online and qualify for the rebate; they've been in stock for the past couple days. I wanted to wait for a better deal, but I'm quickly running out of TY media.

I ordered for in-store pickup and got a confirmation notice, but after calling the store to double-check, customer service couldn't find my order pulled and set aside. BestBuy.com orders for in-store pickup really suck sometimes. :|
 
Sometimes a packing slip can be used but often they do not show a price which the conditions usually require so it is best to print a receipt.

I also prefer the spin top cases but have not found the newer design to allow the bottom to fall out -it is just a matter of using the keyed tabs properly as with most cases.
 
Originally posted by: Auric
Sometimes a packing slip can be used but often they do not show a price which the conditions usually require so it is best to print a receipt.

I also prefer the spin top cases but have not found the newer design to allow the bottom to fall out -it is just a matter of using the keyed tabs properly as with most cases.
Click to expand...
Yeah the new design is very sturdy as well, easily better than the chintzy keyed tabs of all other CDR spindles.

I prefer the new design as it's faster to get the lid off, compared to unscrewing the cap.
 
FWIW.....

I've been burning since a buddy and I paid ~$500 for a 2X Ricoh??? burner. Back when there was only a newsgroup about burners.

IME, over a dozen burners and probably 50 players, Taiyo Yuden (made in Japan) and Mitsui have been the only cd-r's that will work in all my "worst case" players.

Amazingly, way back when.....Imation even had some TY's. You hadda look real hard though.
--Randy
 
Bah, my rebate claim denied, according to the myrewards.info web site.

At least FujiFilm lists an 800 number, and last time I called there was hardly a hold to speak to a rep. I had to ask about the "store number" for BestBuy.com and was told to use "1234". Maybe that's why my claim was denied.
 
Originally posted by: manly
Bah, my rebate claim denied, according to the myrewards.info web site.

At least FujiFilm lists an 800 number, and last time I called there was hardly a hold to speak to a rep. I had to ask about the "store number" for BestBuy.com and was told to use "1234". Maybe that's why my claim was denied.
Click to expand...

Ugggh, why did you just revive a 6 week old thread with a deal that is way dead.
 
Originally posted by: Auric
P.S. what's the deal with AT&T brand CD's? I've never seen those before but such obvious licensing is really bordering on lunacy. While it might seem a great idea in the boardroom, I assure corporate America that I, for one, am generally suspicious of such products -not unlike "GE" electronics and appliances and "Sears" services. The increasing desperation of corporate marketing is so sad. But I digress... :disgust:
Click to expand...

Well, they are sold by Verbatim, mfg by Ritek, the ones that I have used were rated at 32x, but burned fine at up to 52x in my upgraded Sony/Lite-On burner, with low numbers of C2 errors and no C1 errors. The topcoat seems well-adhered, seems unlikely to scratch off. Altogether, although the discs are Ritek-made, they seem decent. Not as good as Verbatim DataLife Plus or Taiyo-Yuden, but close, and burns at high speeds.

However, an otherwise-valid rebate was apparently arbitrarily rejected for lacking a UPC, although one was submitted. Be careful.

Minor edit: apparently I had C1/C2 errors switched in the above paragraph. There were zero C2 errors, and minimal C1 errors.
 
No probs with my rebate here. Status is "Printing Check" for a few days already.. although it makes me wonder if their wonderful printer takes this long to print a check 😉
 
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Originally posted by: razel
I can't say that all CDR's made in little steps, fan your face, Kimono land (Japan) are Taiyo Yuden, but it sure seems like it in my experience. And so I took the chance and bought it, made sure, now I'm informing you all to the GREAT news.
Click to expand...
Well, from my understanding Taiyo Yuden is the ONLY CD-R manufacturer in Japan so................
Click to expand...

Possibly the only one left, but Hitachi-Maxell and Mitsui were also both Made in Japan. Possibly also some Verbatim/Mitsubishi, but most of those were Made in Singapore.

Ritek/CMC/ProDisc and some others are Made in Taiwan, Kodak's used to be both Made in Japan (I think, probably on a line from Mitsui), and Made in Mexico. TDK used to have a plant in Georgia, USA, but they are made on Ritek's lines nowdays. There is also cd-recordable.com, not sure if they are still in operation, but they are in CT, USA. Oh yeah, BASF/Emtec are Made in India, and to be avoided, IMHO.

That's about all of the CDR mfg's that I know about. There are probably some more European ones too.
 
Originally posted by: weepul
Originally posted by: Whiskyboy
Perhaps I'm not as much of a CD-R aficionado, but my Imation 100pks seem to work just fine at 48x, and they're on sale for $14.99 June 1-7 Instantly. Other than coasters, is there some other feature I should care about for CDRs?
Click to expand...

the amount of time cdrs last. most generics last i believe ~10yrs, but fuji's last ~40+ yrs. or someting like that. someone else could probably give u more exact figures.

//krunk (^_^x)
Click to expand...

Perhaps if you seal them hermetically and put them away in a box somewhere.

But really-cheap CDs can last much shorter than even a year, if they are even slightly actively used. Generally, they just fall apart/fail. If you want any data to last more than a year, use some decent CDRs.
 
Originally posted by: SludgeFactory
With poor media, I've seen an SVCD look fine initially. After ~8 months, when I went back to watch it on the same DVD player, there were glitches and artifacts in the video in certain spots. Checked the disc and it was loaded with C2 errors and unreadable blocks. I don't know what the original error level was, but I assume it degraded substantially over that short period of time.
Click to expand...

Don't forget, unburned CDR media has a "shelf-life", just like unexposed film. I've read various reports, apparently it can range from one to three or more years or so. But don't forget, some of these discs sit in warehouses for quite some time too.
 
Originally posted by: marvie
No probs with my rebate here. Status is "Printing Check" for a few days already.. although it makes me wonder if their wonderful printer takes this long to print a check 😉
Click to expand...

Me too. They must be using a manual offset printing press.

For store number I have used "bestbuy.com" without incident.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top