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10" or 12" sub?

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Originally posted by: MommysLittleMonster
Haha, I thought this thread related to subs as in sandwiches.

Seriously... what kind of fvcked up sandwich joint would have a differential for 10" and 12"?
 
If you have the space for the larger enclosure the 12" would require, get a 12". The increased cone area is well worth it. And thanks to BigPoppa for posting actual facts. I love hearing "faster response". Do some drivers play 40hz faster than other drivers? No, 40hz is 40hz. IMO, larger drivers are preferable, since they require less excursion to produce the same SPL than a smaller driver would.
 
Originally posted by: ribbon13
I suggest two Dayton Quatro 10s. ^^ Isobarik even. Space saver.

Isobaric kills efficiency though, and doesn't increase output on its own. The only benefit is the ability to have more drivers, due to the halving of the enclosure volume. And if you go with a push/pull (most common), you have an exposed woofer basket.
 
Originally posted by: ribbon13
No.. you can have both cones facing out, and wire the second woofer to reverse polarity.

With push/pull you wire the second woofer reverse, the way you described, the woofers must be wired the same, or they will tear each other apart. You lose a lot of the benefits of isobaric when installing drivers like this. The added complecity of the enclosure, along with these losses make this configuration less desirable.
 
Originally posted by: 95SS
If you have the space for the larger enclosure the 12" would require, get a 12". The increased cone area is well worth it. And thanks to BigPoppa for posting actual facts. I love hearing "faster response". Do some drivers play 40hz faster than other drivers? No, 40hz is 40hz. IMO, larger drivers are preferable, since they require less excursion to produce the same SPL than a smaller driver would.

im taking it your replying to my statement about tens being quicker to respond. Let me just say I'm not talking about frequency response silly, of course 40hz is 40hz. If a sub played 40hz faster, know what it would be? um, greater than 40hz. When I say faster response, I'm actually talking about attack speed.

I've had both dual boston pro 10's and 12's and the 10's were noticably quicker and punchier and the 12's hit deeper. The tens rolled off at least 5hz higher than the 12's but the 12's seemed to bleed together on extremely dynamic double bass lines (like from Dream Theater).

This is the point at which I will conceded the argument, because I did infact read the adireaudio white paper. Even though this is a single white paper that could be BS, I'll also admit that other factors could have led to me hearing the differences. Slightly incorrect box spec on the 12's leading to poorer response? I don't know. I'm good enough with math to build a box to spec. I just find it hard to believe that watt for watt, a speaker of the same make will be equally as fast to respond at all sizes. I mean, if I have two kids on a swing, and one weights 50 pounds and the other weights 60 pounds, you would think that if I pushed both at the same amount of force the lighter child would swing a little higher. 😉
 
Originally posted by: aphex
Originally posted by: Kalvin00
12"

or 2 10"s

😉

Trust me, i'm sure you'll eventually be wanting more..

I want to save trunk space so im sticking w/ a single woofer.


Infinate baffle.
The "car audio" in staller guys will tell you it will sound like crap, and it is a nightmare to talk them into letting you doing it the way you want rather than the way they want, but it is worth it.
I have fantastic bass and all my trunk space.
 
Replying to Topic: 10" or 12" sub?
Created On 04/23/2005 11:58 PM by aphex

😱

I thought this was about Quizno's or Subway.

10 inch Subwoofer is cheaper.
 
Originally posted by: TechBoyJK
Originally posted by: 95SS
If you have the space for the larger enclosure the 12" would require, get a 12". The increased cone area is well worth it. And thanks to BigPoppa for posting actual facts. I love hearing "faster response". Do some drivers play 40hz faster than other drivers? No, 40hz is 40hz. IMO, larger drivers are preferable, since they require less excursion to produce the same SPL than a smaller driver would.

im taking it your replying to my statement about tens being quicker to respond. Let me just say I'm not talking about frequency response silly, of course 40hz is 40hz. If a sub played 40hz faster, know what it would be? um, greater than 40hz. When I say faster response, I'm actually talking about attack speed.

I've had both dual boston pro 10's and 12's and the 10's were noticably quicker and punchier and the 12's hit deeper. The tens rolled off at least 5hz higher than the 12's but the 12's seemed to bleed together on extremely dynamic double bass lines (like from Dream Theater).

This is the reason the 10's seemed punchier and the 12's seemed deeper.

This is the point at which I will conceded the argument, because I did infact read the adireaudio white paper. Even though this is a single white paper that could be BS, I'll also admit that other factors could have led to me hearing the differences. Slightly incorrect box spec on the 12's leading to poorer response? I don't know. I'm good enough with math to build a box to spec. I just find it hard to believe that watt for watt, a speaker of the same make will be equally as fast to respond at all sizes. I mean, if I have two kids on a swing, and one weights 50 pounds and the other weights 60 pounds, you would think that if I pushed both at the same amount of force the lighter child would swing a little higher. 😉


True, we don't know if the Qtc of the 2 system's were matching. We also dont know if the Le (inductance) of the 12" subwoofers voice coil was greater than that of the 10" subs coil.

Though your analogy makes sense, the sub motor has plenty of strength to move around the relatively lightweight cone. Most 10-12" cones are between 140-220 grams... really isn't much weight.
 
So it seems to the general consensus is that a 10" is indeed punchier, yet a 12" can go lower...

Hmmmm, i still dunno which i want 😀
 
Originally posted by: ribbon13
I suggest two Dayton Quatro 10s. ^^ Isobarik even. Space saver.

hey you're back! wb 🙂 I hadn't thought of going with two Daytons. Two 10" Quattros will cost as much as a single shiva - link.
 
Originally posted by: TechBoyJK
Originally posted by: BigPoppa
Subwoofer size has no correlation to woofer speed. You can make a 15 sound just as tight as an 8 when played at the proper frequencies. Tightness more comes from the frequencies you're playing. 80-120 is the range of kickdrums. Some woofers play better than others in this range. Technically, you shouldn't be playing a sub that high.

As for the 10 vs 12, go for the 12w3v2. A lot more cone area.

Personally, I'd go with a w6v2. Some people prefer the sound of the w6v2 to the w7.

um, as far as I know, the lighter the woofer cone, the faster it can be? therefore a smaller sub can be faster? i thought this was common logic? if you have a sub, in two versions, a ten and twelve, the ten will undoubtly be faster given all other variables are the same.
NO NO NO
 
10's sound better..
with that said I have 2 12's... 😛 (made the mistake) but I don't mind the sound of them.. they're just Rockfords, but their stuff usually hits pretty hard and lasts forever.. I've had no probs at all in 2 years with my RF stuff.
 
Originally posted by: aphex
Originally posted by: Anubis
id get a MB Quart 10in the PWE 254, itll take 400w and has a responce or 18-300

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NEvrluvdMF...i-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=049PWE254

Not bad for $149, but i would have to get the Alpine 501 ($100 more)

Would it be noticably better than the JL W3?

you wouldent have to, 300w would be fine

IDk if its better then the JL, it is however IMO that the MB Quart subs are the cleanest sounding subs out there that dont cost 11ty billion dollors, and seeing as you are more concerned with quality then shattering windows, itsa good match
 
if you dont have alot of free cash, and like to "work" your sub, Id suggest buying from a retail outfit that offers a protection plan so that if the sub blows, you can just take it up and get a new one.

I had the option of a mailorder XTANT vs a best buy Rockford P3 and I went with the Rockford because I know people at bestbuy. Ive blown the RF P3 twice now, and simply take it up to best buy and exchange it for a new one. Had I got the xtant, Id be waiting weeks at a time for a new one and would have to be more careful with it too.

The P3 is a nice sub and cost around $200 for a 10"(which is what I have). Dont sound as good as my old boston's (which both sets were gaffled) nor do I think they sound quite as good as a w3, but the difference between te P3 and W3 is very small.

I like the extended warranty since I make alot of my own music and sometimes the lowend peaks more than it should. there fore my subs are at more risk to blow at otherwise normal levels.
 
Sub makers I recommend are: Kicker, JL, JBL, Adire, IDMAX, some Infinity's, and Eclipse Aluminum series. Go JL if you got money, or Kicker for by far the best bang for your buck.
 
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