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1 Terabyte WD HDD owners (WD1001FALS)

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taltamir -- That's nice but I just recently bought my switch so I'm not planning to throw it away and by another. Here're some specs I managed to write down.

Switch: LinkSys 5-port 10/100 workgroup switch model EZXS55W
Router: LinkSys Etherfast Cable/DSL Router BEFSR11

All of my network cables are regular cat 5s. So I would have to buy new cables, router, and switch. That's too much compared to just using an eSATA external drive. Plus all of my computers in my network aren't 1 gb capable. I really don't have network per se. They're just hooked up to the switch so that I can surf the web on each 'puter. It's too slow to transfer files over 10/100 mb network anyway.

I have a 16 gb USB thumb drive to move files between computers. Yeah, it would be nice not having to need to use USB drive but time and cost of updating to a capable NAS is just not feasible.

You guys really should try out opera 10 alpha. It spell checks your forum posts for you (underlines misspelling and if you right-click it suggests corrections -- really handy).
 
cat 5 or cat 5e?
modern gigabit ethernet devices work on cat5e cables. There are some expensive ones that work even on regular cat5. Only the earliest gigabit cards required cat6.

If you have cat5e you are good to go (and you most likely do).
Why did you just purchase a 100mbit switch? you have a 100mbit router anyways... Although the switch is better than the router, it lower the work the router has to contend with (and routers tend to overload on torrent traffic and burn out).
Also you do NOT have to upgrade your router... if you have a router with only 100mbit connected to a 1gbit switch and the computers are connected to it using 1gbit ethernet ports/cards, than you have gigabit speed between the computers. If you have 3 computers, 2 with gigabit and 1 with 100mbit, than it will give you gigabit speed between the gigabit computers, and 100mbit speed on those.
Basically it is a matter of links. from computer A to computer B it has to go Computer - cable - switch - cable - computer. so only those devices need to be gigabit capable. (same with jumbo frames)

And as we said a million times, it is not a matter of speed. For gods sake read. it is about reliablity. you need some redundancy or backups to protect your data. NAS allows you to have a fileserver, one with multiple drives in RAID1, RAID5, or RAID6. giving you redundancy and data protection. Yes it IS slower than eSATA...
If you are just storing massive amounts of data, than why eSATA? just put a 1TB drive INSIDE the computer and call it a day (be aware that the drive can fail at any moment and the data is all lost)
 
taltamir -- I only see cat 5 printed on the network cables -- so no dice. I bought a switch to replace my dead hub. The 10/100 mb switch costs less than 1gb switch at the time. *duh* 😛

Speed is important for me. Redundancy and such isn't. Again, I don't have data that are mission critical. I'm not a freakin' scientist with research data stored on my 1 terabyte drive. That's why I don't do RAID this or NAS that.

I didn't put my first 1 TB drive inside my case because I have a SFF (small form factor) case. There's not a lot of room in there for heat dissipation. That's why I put it in an external enclosure (fanless) and connected via eSATA.

But it doesn't seem to heat up the enclosure that much so I'm going to put the 2nd 1 TB drive inside my case this time around.

I've had three drives fail in the past (hitachi super fast 7200 rpm 100 gb notebook drive; first one died then sent back for 2nd and it had corrupted/bad sectors too; i gave up on it; other one is internal hd but it was my fault -- dropped the external enclosure one too many times).
 
Originally posted by: MalVeauX
Originally posted by: Team Spicoli
Originally posted by: MalVeauX
Heya,

I have several 1TiB WDD HDD's, both external and internal. I filled several with DVD images (.ISO). I hate removable `media' so I digitize everything possible. I like "two clicks" and it just shows up. I put my internals in a headless FreeNAS box and it serves my DVDs and other stored files over my gigabit network (mainly to my gaming/HTPC machine).

Very best,

Hey Mal,

what brand/model FreeNAS box do you have, or recommend?

FreeNAS is the OS. It's free. www.freenas.org

There are specific NAS devices that you can buy, that are very expensive for the sake of being very small, very limited, all-in-one solutions with very little expandability and often times do not have gigabit network adapters. You'll find NAS devices (with no drives!) for $100+ easily. Well, you can build your own NAS for that, and it will have WAY more connectivity, expandability and options. Any computer can become a NAS. So long as it has hard drive space and a network connection, it can become a NAS. You don't need anything special. Windows can be a NAS box. Or you can load something light like FreeNAS.

For someone who wants a NAS that is always on and always available, a light FreeNAS machine would be perfect. For someone who only wants to access the NAS sometimes, like only during the day and it's just them, they can easily just have any old machine function as a NAS while running Windows, Linux, or whatever else you may prefer. The point of FreeNAS is to have an OS that runs headless (no monitor/display), and no input devices required (no keyboard, no mouse), and you just access it via the web (it has a web gui, you control the machine remotely over your network). It's meant to be on all the time like this. Not everyone needs that. So a simple machine with Windows or just any free version of Linux even can be a NAS `server' if you will, just by being on and sharing HDD space (very simple to setup). But, those OS's need input to control and shut down (unless you activate remote desktop and do it like that, available in windows, which you can do!).

With NAS you could even use RAID to setup a massive capacity storage, or just let the drives be separate and individual for access. RAID5 is a great way to have a big capacity and uptime in a NAS box. Personally, I would just go for separate disks though, because you can't expand a RAID array without rebuilding it, and after a few terabytes you may just not want to have to deal with moving it around to rebuild an array. I add gigs of data per month, so I don't use RAID for my NAS--I just let the disks stay separate and access them as individuals.

Here's an example of a very expandable NAS machine (build it yourself, save tons of money, get tons of expandability and options):

Great NAS motherboard @ $55
CPU @ $57
Optical Drive @ $24
2GB of RAM @ $24
Good 500W PSU @ $40
Good NAS Case @ $50

There's the machine itself. It's just a computer. But, select specific parts for the job. The case has 6 internal 3.5" bays for hard drives and supports ATX or MicroATX. The motherboard supports up to 6 SATA drives. The motherboard has built in video, so you don't need a separate videocard. The cpu selected is powerful and cheap, with it's own heatsink & fan. Good memory for cheap. The motherboard also has gigabit lan, so it supports 10/100/1000 (and you want 1000mb) for NAS, so that you can transfer files fast. At gigabit speeds, it'll work over the network as fast as an eSATA drive would, easily, so it's great speed.

So $250 for the actual NAS box.

Again, any old computer would do. If you have an old computer, you can bring it to life just by putting some HDD's in it and setting it up as a network accessible storage unit. The one I setup here is $250 because I went for lots of connectability. 6 built in connections for HDD's and way more CPU/RAM than you would actually need, ever, for a NAS. I would do that because you never know when you might want to actually use that Computer for something more, like Home Theater (as it could instantly be used for that, having everything it needs for that too actually!). So that computer above is both an HTPC and NAS if you wish--very handy.

From there, you need a gigabit capable router.

And then it's just time to add your HDD's and whatever OS you're going to use.

Here's the HDD's I would use: WD10EADS, 1 Tb @ $120

The drive is an update from it's previous version, a green drive, great performance, low power usage, and a good price. Just add them as you need them. Prices keep going down.

As for the OS, you can run FreeNAS as listed above (Freenas.org) or you could just run something like Windows and enable remote desktop so that you can control it headless with another computer (to shut it down, etc).

Very best,

Hey Mal,

What would be an example of a good NAS setup capable of streaming full 1080P/True HD, and outputting Uncompressed DTS audio?

I'm thinking:

2-640gb WD Caviar Black HDD's (Raid 0)
1-Auzentech 7.1 card
2-GeForce 9800GT, or GT-260 (SLI'd)
1-Asus MOBO (lastest nVidia chipset)
?-WD10EADS 1TB drives
etc. . .overkill in some respects I know.
 
Team Spicoli -- I don't think either Mal or taltamir is going to read/reply to this thread anymore. You might be better off pm'ing him. I think I may have pissed both off. 😱
 
I think they were just trying to convey to you that a NAS box should not impact the speed/performance of your main computer. If my understanding is correct, the NAS box would solely act as a media storage unit from which to retrieve data. And the retrieval process shouldn't impact/hinder other applications/processes you are attempting on another computer.

Mal please step in here if I am making matters worse.
Thanks
 
I bought one of these from Newegg on December 3. Didn't get around to installing it until three days ago. My mistake. The hard drive failed with the sound of heads crashing last night. Since it only had a 30 day return I now have to go through Western Digital for a replacement.

So the question begs:

Why did I wait so long to try the drive?

Answer:

Because over the many many years that I have been building computers for myself and many others I have only used Western Digital drives and NONE have failed until this one.

John
 
craftech -- Poor, baby. I'm formatting mine right now! 😛 😱 🙂 It'st at 16%. I actually jumped in and did a quickformat (like 10 seconds). Then started copying 500 GB of data over to the drive. I stuck it inside my case this time. 😛 Then I read online you're not supposed to do a quickformat on a new drive because it doesn't check for bad sector like normal format. So, I cancelled the file transfer and did a regular format instead. Now it's at 17% complete. Data integrity, right Mal/taltamir? 😉


Team Spicoli -- I know what they're getting at. I was just jerking their chains. They got upset and left the thread in disgust. It was not my fault they left. You're not making matters worst. They're just big babies. 😛 Just memorize this and life is good:

No matter what you do:

1. 1/3 people of the world hates/dislikes you
2. 1/3 people of the world don't care about/indifferent to you
3. 1/3 people of the world loves/likes you
 
Because over the many many years that I have been building computers for myself and many others I have only used Western Digital drives and NONE have failed until this one.
conjecture, I have heard people say the same for every drive maker... as well as saying "every one of the first 3 drives i bought from company X failed" for every drive manufacturer out there as well... its just the roll of the dice. Ofcourse there might be greater tends, but they are not individually observable, they require large sample sizes...
 
Originally posted by: Team Spicoli

Hey Mal,

What would be an example of a good NAS setup capable of streaming full 1080P/True HD, and outputting Uncompressed DTS audio?

I'm thinking:

2-640gb WD Caviar Black HDD's (Raid 0)
1-Auzentech 7.1 card
2-GeForce 9800GT, or GT-260 (SLI'd)
1-Asus MOBO (lastest nVidia chipset)
?-WD10EADS 1TB drives
etc. . .overkill in some respects I know.

Heya,

That machine is big time overkill for outputting high def content. The machine you quoted me listing will do it for cheap. Note, you're outputting to a source, not playing back, on that machine. So you don't need a videocard & soundcard. Onboard will work, just to have something to use for when setting it up. Once running, you don't need them. You're outputting, so it's all about bandwidth for moving data--not playback. Very different thing.

Also note, `uncompressed' DTS audio makes no sense. DTS is a compression for audio streams. You can't have uncompressed DTS audio. You can't have uncompressed dolby digital audio. Those are both compressions. It's like saying "uncompressed zip files." Get what I mean? The question is.... what are your sources for video & audio? What are the actual sources? DVD? BluRay? Self-made content? This is what you should list out to see what hardware you actually need.

Originally posted by: riottime
Team Spicoli -- I don't think either Mal or taltamir is going to read/reply to this thread anymore. You might be better off pm'ing him. I think I may have pissed both off.

Not at all. You didn't disgust nor piss anyone off, at least not where I'm sitting. But you're being stand offish over a topic where you clearly don't really know what you're talking about and you only have experience with an eSATA drive with what you're doing. No one is telling you to switch. We gave you alternatives. What you do with that is up to you. Stick with your eSATA. If it works for you, there's no reason to change that up right now, especially if you have a very tight budget and can't buy switches and cables. And there's nothing wrong with that. Not everyone is into this stuff. I wasn't posting here because there was nothing further to add. Not because of you.

Very best,

 
Hey Mal,

The Antec 900 build will be used for playback, and my sources will be DVD, and Blu Ray backups stored on a NAS box.

Thanks Mal.

Glad you're back🙂
 
Originally posted by: Team Spicoli
Hey Mal,

The Antec 900 build will be used for playback, and my sources will be DVD, and Blu Ray backups stored on a NAS box.

Thanks Mal.

Glad you're back🙂

Heya,

That makes a good difference. You still don't need hardly any of that equipment. Any old dual core will work for bluray playback. A lot of modern onboard chipsets have enough juice to take care of HD playback too. If ever in doubt, the geforce 8 series cards have PureHD for that onboard which is great. You can get the 8500GT for like $40, fanless, and do the same playback as an expensive $300 gaming videocard with the same playback ability for DVD/Bluray/HD. PSU wise, you still don't need all that power. Just a nice reliable 500w or should be more than enough (HDD's draw very little amounts of power). Any CPU wise, a nice little AMD 5000+ (2.5ghz) would be more than enough to power this machine's playback needs. If you're not playing games, you really don't need expensive components and latest gen gaming tech. Bluray playback doesn't require that much, and DVD is effortless to playback (10+ year old machines do it just fine). In fact, if you digitize your optical media to playback without discs, the playback is even better as you don't run into problems with vibration of discs making the laser not able to read properly, seek times for playback jumping, sound (vibration of the optical drive can be really loud while playing a disc).

Very best,
 
Just wondering if the drives makes any noise? Because I am in need for a terabyte drive. I heard Hitachi is pretty good as well. I rather stay away from Maxtor/Seagate as I have bad experiences in failure drives on those. Let me know.
 
Originally posted by: WaitingForNehalem
Mine squeals and screeches even after exchanging. I hate it.

Did they ship you the same HD back?

What did they say when you told them it is squealing still?
 
Originally posted by: Elixer
Originally posted by: WaitingForNehalem
Mine squeals and screeches even after exchanging. I hate it.

Did they ship you the same HD back?

What did they say when you told them it is squealing still?

I tried RMAing but it was terrible. They said my HDD was delayed and they had no more Black's so they wanted to give me a Green! I told them no and contrary to the previous person at tech support, this guy said the new drive would be refurbished! I had to argue with them to get free shipping. Finally, I canceled it and exchanged it at Best Buy. Same problem. The noise is so loud like it's like nails against a chalk board.
 
Now this is getting me worried. I have a Seagate 1TB HDD that fails randomly and freezes the whole system. Now i hear the WB Black 1TB drives are "clicking" possibly a sign of issues.

Are there really ANY 1TB drives that are trouble free?
 
Originally posted by: WaitingForNehalem
I take it this isn't normal? What are the chances of me receiving 2 defective drives in a row.

Not that I am aware of. Mine certainly don't make that noise.
Maybe the BB dweebs dropped a few HDs in the back or something? Or I guess it could be a defective lot shipment to them.

 
Wow, it isn't my HDD making the noise, it's the CPU fan. I ran it externally and it was fine. Then I disconnected all the case fans and there was still noise. Finally, I put my hear to the cpu and there it was, the noise. I feel so dumb.
 
Originally posted by: WaitingForNehalem
Wow, it isn't my HDD making the noise, it's the CPU fan. I ran it externally and it was fine. Then I disconnected all the case fans and there was still noise. Finally, I put my hear to the cpu and there it was, the noise. I feel so dumb.

Heh well i've done things like that before. It happens. Glad to hear it's working, think this is the drive I'm gonna get.
 
Originally posted by: taltamir
I use 5x750 drives on an opensolaris box with ZFS and raidz2. At the time they were most cost effective than 1TB Drives (not anymore).
The OPs useage scenario is really really scary... Using it as main storage without any redundancy is just asking for data loss. (also, why external? it just makes it so much slower).

eSATA is slower?
 
Originally posted by: raisethe3
Just wondering if the drives makes any noise? Because I am in need for a terabyte drive. I heard Hitachi is pretty good as well. I rather stay away from Maxtor/Seagate as I have bad experiences in failure drives on those. Let me know.

Heya,

The WD green terabyte drive is very quiet.

Very best,
 
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