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0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oils

I was just wanting to know what people's opinions were on these new oils. Both Amsoil and Mobile 1 put out a product with these ratings. For some reason I just feel like this oil might not protect my car well enough...but I'm curious to try it. Anyone have an opinion regarding it? Should I just stick with 10W-30 Synthetic?
 
Nope, and unless it's a brand-new vehicle, your motor will probably leak it out like a seive.

Stick to at least 10w-30 in the south. My vehicles are all very high mileage, live in Tampa, and I use 20w-50 in all my vehicles.
 
Originally posted by: PricklyPete
No...I live in SC. So the general consensus is that it really doesn't help any?

Yes, using synthetic engine oil will help your car's engine.

0W-30 isn't going to really make any difference. The 0W just means that it is extremely well adapted to cold weather operation. Just get some nice 10W-40.

Have to be careful with the 10W-40 recomendations though. A conventional 10W-40 is not the same as a synthetic 10W-40 when the oil comes of age.

Don't use 10W-40 unless your car recommends it, you're using a high quality synthetic, or your car has a bit of wear(or all of the above).

I'm creating an oil specifications spreadsheet.. in an attempt to get rid of some of the misinformation out there. Working on it as I have time...
 
10W30 year round is your best bet unless you live in a very cold place.


My cars and trucks get Mobile 10W30 year round and my Bike gets Mobile1 15W50
 
Thanks guys. I will probably just stick with Mobile 1 10W-30 then. Last time I had picked some up I just saw the 0W-30 next to it for the same price and just got curious.
 
Dino in the Engine (Cheap and same results), Dino in the Tranny (Cheap and doesn't add slippage), Syn in the Blower (only change every 20K miles), Syn in the Pumpkin (Really helped quiet down my locker) for me 😉

Seems to put up with anything I throw on my double axel Dunlap and tow through the Rockies and down 470 to Bandimere not to mention some 4x4 and I raced it for a couple seasons too. 😉
 
Originally posted by: LAUST
Dino in the Engine (Cheap and same results), Dino in the Tranny (Cheap and doesn't add slippage), Syn in the Blower (only change every 20K miles), Syn in the Pumpkin (Really helped quiet down my locker) for me 😉

Seems to put up with anything I throw on my double axel Dunlap and tow through the Rockies and down 470 to Bandimere not to mention some 4x4 and I raced it for a couple seasons too. 😉

Not quite sure what you mean by "Doesen't add slippage". You mean in a bike?

You have to get a synthetic oil specifically formulated for wet clutches; No friction modifiers.
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: LAUST
Dino in the Engine (Cheap and same results), Dino in the Tranny (Cheap and doesn't add slippage), Syn in the Blower (only change every 20K miles), Syn in the Pumpkin (Really helped quiet down my locker) for me 😉

Seems to put up with anything I throw on my double axel Dunlap and tow through the Rockies and down 470 to Bandimere not to mention some 4x4 and I raced it for a couple seasons too. 😉

Not quite sure what you mean by "Doesen't add slippage". You mean in a bike?

You have to get a synthetic oil specifically formulated for wet clutches; No friction modifiers.
Indeed. How do you get gears to slip? Your truck runs a manual, doesn't it?
 
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: LAUST
Dino in the Engine (Cheap and same results), Dino in the Tranny (Cheap and doesn't add slippage), Syn in the Blower (only change every 20K miles), Syn in the Pumpkin (Really helped quiet down my locker) for me 😉

Seems to put up with anything I throw on my double axel Dunlap and tow through the Rockies and down 470 to Bandimere not to mention some 4x4 and I raced it for a couple seasons too. 😉

Not quite sure what you mean by "Doesen't add slippage". You mean in a bike?

You have to get a synthetic oil specifically formulated for wet clutches; No friction modifiers.
Indeed. How do you get gears to slip? Your truck runs a manual, doesn't it?
Oh gawd no, I run a 4L60-E. Manuals are for Track cars and Econobox's

Synthetic in an auto gets rid of Friction that you want to have in an Auto..... Slippage = Heat = dead tranny
 
Originally posted by: LAUST
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: LAUST
Dino in the Engine (Cheap and same results), Dino in the Tranny (Cheap and doesn't add slippage), Syn in the Blower (only change every 20K miles), Syn in the Pumpkin (Really helped quiet down my locker) for me 😉

Seems to put up with anything I throw on my double axel Dunlap and tow through the Rockies and down 470 to Bandimere not to mention some 4x4 and I raced it for a couple seasons too. 😉

Not quite sure what you mean by "Doesen't add slippage". You mean in a bike?

You have to get a synthetic oil specifically formulated for wet clutches; No friction modifiers.
Indeed. How do you get gears to slip? Your truck runs a manual, doesn't it?
Oh gawd no, I run a 4L60-E. Manuals are for Track cars and Econobox's

Synthetic in an auto gets rid of Friction that you want to have in an Auto..... Slippage = Heat = dead tranny

Um, well, you aren't supposed to put synthetic engine oil in your automatic transmission last time I checked. 😛

There are synthetic ATFs... Although I really have no idea what advantages they hold. Probably longer drain intervals.
 
Originally posted by: KokomoGST
OW-30s make good flushing oils... but I wouldn't drive around with it unless I lived in Alaska.

It doesen't really matter. The first number is just its "cold weather" viscosity. The 2nd number is the only one that really matters for an engine that is at temperature.

A 0W-30 oil would not protect your engine any less than a 5W-30, 10W-30, or even just straight 30 weight. They are all 30 weight oils, they just differ in their cold temperature characteristcs.
 
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