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0-20 oil for the frs?

brainhulk

brainhulk

Diamond Member
Changing my brother's oil later and he said manual recommends 0w-20 syn. Does that sound right? I was thinking that's what my prius uses and it might be too thin
 
Toyota? But yea car companies are trying to run the thinest oil they can for CAFE reasons.

You can run 0w30 or even 5w30 as long as its a syn.
 
I don't know why people are confused about what type of motor oil to use on their car when the manufacturer recommendation is written all over the oil cap. ???
 
Baked said:
I don't know why people are confused about what type of motor oil to use on their car when the manufacturer recommendation is written all over the oil cap. ???
Click to expand...

I don't understand why we keep having these threads where people tell us that the manufacturer is god and us peons should just do what they say, or else our warranties will be voided and our engines will blow up.

BUT...I agree with your general thought to the extent of 'if it says 0w20 on the cap, you're not going to have a problem with 0w20.' For the most part...if I lived in Arizona and it was 115* every day, I would have no problem recommending someone use slightly thicker oil, and IMHO, I think the engine would be better off for it.

Does that kinda make sense? I just don't know which way your post was going...there's 'dude, it says 0w20; 0w20 will work fine.' But then there's also 'dude, it says 0w20; you HAVE to use 0w20.' The latter position is silly.
 
Baked said:
I don't know why people are confused about what type of motor oil to use on their car when the manufacturer recommendation is written all over the oil cap. ???
Click to expand...

Because people are smarter than highly educated scientists who spent their whole lifetime in the automotive engineering field. Duh!
 
There are extreme examples.. If you live in heat heat or extreme cold it might be worth considering looking at alternatives, but for the most part go by the manual.

With motorcycles that have a shared oil/transmission crankcase it can be worth experimenting with different brands.

Other than that, go by the oil cap. I run synthetic at 7500 mileage intervals in all my vehicles.
 
phucheneh said:
I don't understand why we keep having these threads where people tell us that the manufacturer is god and us peons should just do what they say, or else our warranties will be voided and our engines will blow up.

BUT...I agree with your general thought to the extent of 'if it says 0w20 on the cap, you're not going to have a problem with 0w20.' For the most part...if I lived in Arizona and it was 115* every day, I would have no problem recommending someone use slightly thicker oil, and IMHO, I think the engine would be better off for it.

Does that kinda make sense? I just don't know which way your post was going...there's 'dude, it says 0w20; 0w20 will work fine.' But then there's also 'dude, it says 0w20; you HAVE to use 0w20.' The latter position is silly.
Click to expand...
I got burned with heavier oil in my Camry. Within 1000 miles it developed some sticky lifters. I went back to recommended weight, in about 1000 miles it cleaned itself up. That was 100,000 miles ago. So say what you will, I will always recommend using what the manufacturer recommends.
 
Invariably, there is someone who thinks they know better and just use something else in spite the recommendation.
 
skyking said:
I got burned with heavier oil in my Camry. Within 1000 miles it developed some sticky lifters. I went back to recommended weight, in about 1000 miles it cleaned itself up. That was 100,000 miles ago. So say what you will, I will always recommend using what the manufacturer recommends.
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The Camry ( or any other Toyota ) hasn't used hydraulic lifters in a very longgggg time.
 
Meghan54 said:
You sure you're not fleabag, phucheneh? Same schtick, same lack of knowledge.
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You're an idiot.

(learn to be more direct with your opinions. You think that I'm an idiot, too; the difference is that your idiocy projects much more ubiquitously.)
 
Follow the manual. Everything you think you know about oil is probably misguided. If you don't want to follow the manual, go ahead and dump something else in there. Why would the manufacturer recommend the wrong oil for your car? And if you think a thicker oil is "better" somehow, you're probably wrong.
 
LTC8K6 said:
If it's under warranty, follow mfg instructions.

If it's out of warranty, have at it.
Click to expand...

THIS THIS THIS.

If internet Ferdinand Porsches want to pretend they know more than some of the world's best mechanical engineers, fine.
But do it out of warranty. You have some sort of engine/oil related issue and you take it in for service, admitting to disregarding the written manufacturer's instructions, you're just handing them a blank check saying "Please use this as cause to deny my warranty claim, or at least complicate the warranty process ten fold. Thank you."
 
I did the change yesterday with Toyota 0w-20. Eventually he wants to go to the track with me. I guess I'm gonna have to have my brother hop on the frs froums and see what their track junkies are using
 
phucheneh said:
I don't understand why we keep having these threads where people tell us that the manufacturer is god and us peons should just do what they say, or else our warranties will be voided and our engines will blow up.

BUT...I agree with your general thought to the extent of 'if it says 0w20 on the cap, you're not going to have a problem with 0w20.' For the most part...if I lived in Arizona and it was 115* every day, I would have no problem recommending someone use slightly thicker oil, and IMHO, I think the engine would be better off for it.

Does that kinda make sense? I just don't know which way your post was going...there's 'dude, it says 0w20; 0w20 will work fine.' But then there's also 'dude, it says 0w20; you HAVE to use 0w20.' The latter position is silly.
Click to expand...

Because when you're under warranty it can matter. Mazda won't do warranty work on the 3 if you use a different weight and they catch it. Of course that brings in the matter of them catching it. The issue also has to be something that could have been impacted by it.
 
Meghan54 said:
You sure you're not fleabag, phucheneh? Same schtick, same lack of knowledge.
Click to expand...


Actually hes correct. The oil weight in the US is more based on CAFE numbers, not whats best for the motor.

The same motors that call for 5w20/0w20 in the US Call for 5w30/5w40 outside the US.
 
Jimzz said:
Actually hes correct. The oil weight in the US is more based on CAFE numbers, not whats best for the motor.

The same motors that call for 5w20/0w20 in the US Call for 5w30/5w40 outside the US.
Click to expand...


Exactly. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, rather than your warranty coverage (assuming it's even affected by using the *correct* weight), then look up what oil is recommended in other countries with a similar climate. Automakers don't give a single fuck how long your engine lasts, as long it survives through the warranty.
 
Throckmorton said:
Exactly. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, rather than your warranty coverage (assuming it's even affected by using the *correct* weight), then look up what oil is recommended in other countries with a similar climate. Automakers don't give a single fuck how long your engine lasts, as long it survives through the warranty.
Click to expand...

While I agree with that there were reports that Mazda wasn't covering damage to the engine if the weight specified in the manual wasn't used. Stupid since the exact same motor from the prior year called for 5-20 whereas mine called for 0-20. But whatever. Never had an issue with the car.

Having said that, this is all dependent on the manufacturer. I only knew they did that because I read up on it when I purchased the car. Didn't bother me and I'd purchase another Mazda in the future. It was a great car. Just brought it up to make sure you cover all angles.
 
Throckmorton said:
Exactly. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, rather than your warranty coverage (assuming it's even affected by using the *correct* weight), then look up what oil is recommended in other countries with a similar climate. Automakers don't give a single fuck how long your engine lasts, as long it survives through the warranty.
Click to expand...
yeah because engines blowing up just after warranty makes for a faster repeat customer!
 
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