How to retain CPU in slot after installing Arctic Circle?

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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I just bought an Arctic Circle cooler (a modified HP orb design) for a slot 1 PIII (SECC2). I had planned to install it on my slot 1 PIII 550E. However, if I use this cooler, I think I will have a problem in retaining the CPU using my existing retention mechanism. I wonder if anyone has a good solution for this.

The motherboard is an Asus P3V4X with a "universal" retention mechanism. This plastic mechanism has a latch that engages a rectangular notch in the aluminum plate on the side edge of my existing cooler. The mechanism also has small square holes at the top of the post to engage the original PII cartridge.

My problem is that the Arctic Circle has no side plate sticking out, so there is no notch that can be latched onto and no way to fabricate a notch. There is nothing else I can grab onto without modifying something. There are holes in the side of the CPU card, but I can't get to them without ripping off the back cartridge case, which is needed to provide support for the back clamping plate of the cooler.

Any ideas out there? Sky crane? Or is it sufficient to rely on friction of the slot? it's a pretty heavy cooler.
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Thanks, RagingBITCH for the referral. Unfortunately, that article http://www.plycon.com/orbzip.htm deals with how to secure the cooler onto the CPU card (a Celeron in this case), not how to secure the CPU card into the slot. I have a bracket / clamp to hold the cooler onto the card. The question is, how to hold the card into the slot? I will send the author an e-mail.
 

mindless

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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My slot one celly has a rather large heatsink with dual 60mm fans on the front and a smaller combo on the back. The only thing holding it in is friction, been that way for well over a year, no problems yet.
 

Laz

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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I am not sure if this will work, but I used to use the retention mechanism from the old coolmaster heatsinks to hold my PII and Alpha in place. It depends on how tall the unit is, I still have 2 units left so if you are interested and think it will work for you send me your address and I'll ship it to you (don't just ask for it because it's free as it costs to ship from Canada :Q ). Anyway here's a picture of it http://members.home.net/laz/Case/Dcp00124.jpg
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Laz,

That is a very kind offer, thank you. That part looks like a "top holder" I once bought for a Celeron. Does it have a groove (separated by ridges) down the middle of the top bar in which the edge of a bare CPU card fits? If so, I kind of doubt that it will work in conjunction with my PIII coppermine, which has a cartridge shell on it. The CPU assembly could then be too high. I would need to measure my celeron vs. the coppermine.

I think I may try my string idea first (see next response below) before asking you to go to the touble of sending this retainer, but I may come back. Thanks again.
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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I just came up with a low-cost idea that may work. I am away from home now, so I can't try it until next week.

Use a piece of string. Loop the string around the top of the Arctic Cooler fan (where there is a groove), into a hole in one support post, back over the fan, through the hole on the other support post, and tie the loop. Make it not so tight as to bend anything, just enough to prevent accidental loosening of the CPU from the slot. Use popsicle sticks as shims to prevent inward bending of support posts.

How does that sound?
 

Laz

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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I was using it with a PIII 500 that had a half shell (had a back and top to it) but I believe the top is the same on the coopermine. It has two grooves on the sides about half an inch down for securing the PCB of the processor and the top looks like it will encase an entire cartridge. Let me know either way.

p.s. The grooves are visible in the picture, but there are no grooves on the top.
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Laz,
I think your PIII SECC2 half cartridge is the same as mine, so I guess it will work. Seems a little more functional and elegant than string, so I would like to take you up on your kind offer. Please e-mail me at smithpd@home.com and I will tell you my address, etc.
Thanks,
Peter Smith
 

Laz

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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Sent you an E-mail, you should of just e-mailed me your info, my profile has my e-mail address.
 

kursplat

Golden Member
May 2, 2000
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had a vantec cooler that had come with a bracket to secure the chip in the slot. i narrowed some of the top support to fit. then added a few small zip ties from the back of the cooler to a hole in the case to help it stay upright.the weight of the cooler wanted to rest it on the bx chip fan.
i have run it no problem without the support bracket,but peace of mind is nice

P-3 450@133 FBS for 600mhz 2.3v
256 mb pc 133 mem (no name stuff )
Abit BE6-II mb
Arctic circle w\backing plate and fan
heatsinks on cache chips
Voodoo 3 3000 @180 mhz
SBLive
full tower with lots of air flow through the case
" now now ,don't clock angry. "
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Red Dawn,

I bought mine at http://www.coolingstore.com. The owner, Nevin, is a straight shooter. Last Thursday he told me he could get 800 more heatsink/fans, but was reluctant to do do because of a price increase. I told him there was a lot of interest out there. I just checked his web site, and it looks like he's relented and bought them. If I were you I would get in there and buy it fast because these things are in short supply. Note: if you have a coppermine and you get the non-coppermine version, for an extra $1.00 you get 6 small heat sinks that you can apply to your GeForce memnory chips. That's what I got. I think there is no difference in the cooler (check with Nevin to be sure).
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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To all,

Thanks for your helpful advice. I think I have two solutions now, Laz's retainer and string or piano wire (wire idea couresy of Plycon) as a backup. I am going to install that puppy next week. chuck340, I agree that peace of mind is nice. Although friction will probably work, I do not want to be the first one to have a falling CPU blackout.
 

Technonut

Diamond Member
Mar 19, 2000
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I installed 3 Arctic Circles in 2 K7-Pro's, and 1 Epox 7KXA, and did not use anything except the slot to hold it. I never had one come out on me, or work it's way loose. I guess it is not a bad idea to secure it, but I have not found it necessary.
 

kursplat

Golden Member
May 2, 2000
1,547
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hey smithpd just piece o'mind is all it is,case would have to fall over to knock the chip loose.
glad to here nevin's going to keep modifying these coolers. i found a dozen or so of them at a local electronics salvage place for $22.00 ea. they were in there OEM state with an aditional heat sink big enough to cover a hard drive .sent him a note but he must of found a better source.
great guy to do business with,had a couple things going on and he called me right up to fix things.
 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Well, most folks here think friction is enough, and Nevin also told me friction is enough. So, I guess friction must be enough! I just got a little paranoid after Nevin's written instructions said a good CPU retainer was needed because of the extra weight (in contrast to his verbal statement). I guess he was covering himself with the written instructions and being helpful with the true facts. In any case, I'll use the belt and suspenders. Thanks all for your advice.
 

smithpd

Member
Apr 9, 2000
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HFS4: I thought of zip ties, but I can find no place to attach them to the cooler or on the CPU card. Please desribe in detail how you would do it. Unless there is a good attachment point, I think string would be just as easy.
 

Laz

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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Hey Peter, your retainer went out today, you should get it in about a week. Let me know when it gets delivered.
 

cautery

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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I have mounted a "few" of these coolers... ;)
....and for the PIII version, the following is my recommendation as the best/easiest method:

1) get 4 each 1/4" (3/8" should work as well) nylon spacers and some 0.1" x 4" nylon cable ties (zip-ties).
2) remove the black plastic case from the CPU cartridge.
3) use the 1/4" spacers in place of the back case and mount the cooler per the instructions.
4) Use cable ties to secure the PCB to the CPU stantions. Pass the zip-tie though the hole in the top corner on each end of the PCB and around the stantion. If the slot stantions are the rigid type, cool... just snug the tie down into a loop around each post. If they are the "fold-in" type, simply fold the stantion in until it contacts the PCB and snug the ties down.

The rigid posts have the advantage over the fold-in variety in that you can remove and re-install the CPU without having to cut and replace the ties each time, but the zip-ties make the CPU/cooler assy equally secure in either case.

There are other more "anal" approaches to CPU security, but they aren't really necessary.... actually as has been said before... unless you are pretty rough with your system... moving it around a lot, etc.... slot friction is generally adequate to secure the assy.

As for "warranty" concerns over removing the back case... As long as you are careful not to break the clips when you remove the back case from the PCB, it will re-install easily with little effort.

Hope this helps...

 

smithpd

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Apr 9, 2000
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Clay,

Thanks a lot for the detailed response. I have a couple of questions.
1. Where do you get the nylon spacers?
2. When I looked at the clips for the cartridge case, it wasn't clear to me how to avoid breaking them. My CPU is not visible now, but as I recall the plastic posts that pass through the holes in the CPU board have some devices on their ends that expand and lock into place, kind of like a toggle bolt. Can you easily compress these and get them back out through the small holes in the CPU card?
 

cautery

Senior member
Oct 9, 1999
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71
You are most welcome....

The spacers are available in lots of places.... Jameco.com, radioshack.com, among others...

The "ears" on the case securing posts can easily be compressed without breaking.... Use needle nose pliers or similar (preferably without serrations on the pliers to avoid marks on the posts). Compress them just enough to get them through the PCB, but not so much that they permanently deform....

Later...