• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YAGT: Recommend a rifle scope

Just ordered my DS Arms SA58 FAL extreme duty scope mount, it shipped today and will hopefully be here by the weekend.

Now its time to pick out a scope.

Rifle: DS Arms SA58 FN/FAL 308 winchester

Most of my shots will be within the 150 yard range

Price is a factor: less then $200 would be ideal.

Picture of said rifle during 2010 - 2011 deer season

ds-arms-sa58-deer-hunting-6-28-2011-933.jpg
 
4X would be nice at that range. Try a Leupold Mark AR, but that's going to be $300+ if you include the mount.
 
Vortex Diamondback series. Vortex is a great company and I own a few of their binoculars. Lifetime no fault warranty.
 
Look at Nikons in your price range. I recently picked up a Nikon ProStaff and have to say for the price paid it is very high quality glass.
 
Look at Nikons in your price range. I recently picked up a Nikon ProStaff and have to say for the price paid it is very high quality glass.

Nikon was my first choice for the price range, but I had a nikon prostaff fog up on me. I have a nikon on a marlin 336 30-30 and a weatherby vangaurd 270

With the $200 price range, I am really liking the reviews of the Redfield Revolution. Fog proof has to be a must for the scope.
 
Weaver scope? I have a Weaver 3-9x that was on my AR-15 and now on my .22LR, but anyway it's a great scope and wasn't real expensive. I think a lot of scopes are priced much, much higher than they're actually worth.
 
If stories of Triji Accupoints "fogging up," and those are in the $500 range. It's hard to get a "weatherproof" scope at the $200 range.

A buddy of mine had a top of the line leopuld fog up on him. If I remember right, the scope cost around the $600 - $800 mark.

He bought a $1,200 scope to replace the $800 scope.

The thing is, if I can get fog proof industrial safety glasses for maybe $10, then a fog proof scope should not cost a fortune.
 
Check out Nikon's Buckmaster scopes - You can get a 40mm 3~9X for about $200.

From your description, something like that would be ideal for your usage.

***

Poked around some: http://www.theriflescopestore.com/niniprri39xm.html $170.


NIK6722 Nikon ProStaff Riflescope Specifications:

Model No: 6722
Reticle: BDC
Finish: Matte
Actual Magnification: 3x-9x
Effective Objective Diameter: 40mm
Exit Pupil (mm): 13.3-4.4
Eye Relief (in.): 3.6-3.6
FOV at 100 yds (ft.): 33.8-11.3 @ 100 yds
Tube Diameter: 1 in
Objective O.D. (mm/in): 50.3/1.98
Eyepiece O.D. (mm/in): 44/1.73
Length (in): 12.4
Adjustment Graduation (1 click): 1/4 MOA
Max. Internal Adjustment: 80 MOA
Parallax setting (yds): 100



*****


Edit 2 - Same site - Burris, so you can buy American, if you prefer.


$180 - http://www.theriflescopestore.com/bubsfuiiri3m.html

BSC200162 Burris Fullfield II Scope Features:


•Outstanding optical quality
•Positive steel-on-steel adjustments
•Extremely rugged outer tubes

BSC200162 Burris Fullfield II Scope Specification:

Model Number: 200162
Magnification: 3-9x
Object Diameter: 40mm
Exit Pupil (mm): 13 Low - 5.0 High
Length (in.): 12.2
Weight (ounces): 13
Field of View (in feet @ 100 yards): 33 Low - 13 High
Click Value (in. @ 100 yards): .25
Max Adj. (in. @ 100 yards): 50
Eye Relief (in.): 3.1 – 3.8
 
Last edited:
A buddy of mine had a top of the line leopuld fog up on him. If I remember right, the scope cost around the $600 - $800 mark.

He bought a $1,200 scope to replace the $800 scope.

The thing is, if I can get fog proof industrial safety glasses for maybe $10, then a fog proof scope should not cost a fortune.

Comparing glasses (1 optical element) to a riflescope (multiple optical elements, miniature mechanical components, purged and sealed pressure vessel) is a tough one to make.

When you say "fog up," I'm assuming you mean there is a leak in the scope and condensation forms on the intermediary lenses inside the tube. Or that the scope was low quality and did not have all the moisture appropriately purged from the inside at the factory. This pretty much ruins the scope.

If that's what you're talking about, then once you get to the $1000s range and you can afford a Nightforce, you really don't have to worry about much.

If you mean the objective or ocular are fogging up on the exterior because its humid out or the temperature is changing fast, there isn't really much the scope manufacturer can do other than give the exposed faces of the lens a hydrophobic coating. Just carrying some wipes or some anti fog drip.
 
If you mean the objective or ocular are fogging up on the exterior because its humid out or the temperature is changing fast, there isn't really much the scope manufacturer can do other than give the exposed faces of the lens a hydrophobic coating. Just carrying some wipes or some anti fog drip.

Its on the outside of the scope, and I disagree that there is nothing the manufacturer can do.

As long as warm breath is being applied to the lens, then it will probably fog up. But when I turn my head to the side, or breath shallow for a few seconds, the fog should go away.

What is it about industrial safety glasses that makes them fog resistant? You breath on the glasses, they fog up for a split second, then the fog goes away. Rifle scope manufacturers can not duplicate that technology on the rear lens? I dont know if its the difference between polycarbonate and real glass, or if there is a coating that needs to be applied to the scope lens.

If there was nothing scope manufacturers could do, then the windows of jets would fog up. What is it that stops the windows of jets from fogging, what stops industrial safety glasses from fogging, that scope manufacturers can not replicate?
 
Last edited:
Its on the outside of the scope, and I disagree that there is nothing the manufacturer can do.

As long as warm breath is being applied to the lens, then it will probably fog up. But when I turn my head to the side, or breath shallow for a few seconds, the fog should go away.

What is it about industrial safety glasses that makes them fog resistant? You breath on the glasses, they fog up for a split second, then the fog goes away. Rifle scope manufacturers can not duplicate that technology on the rear lens?

If you assume that the inside of a scope is well insulated from the outside, then if it is at a cooler temperature and is suddenly moved to a hotter one, it will take some time before the temperatures equilibrate, at which point fogging can occur. Your safety glasses don't have this problem since both sides of the glass are likely at the same temperature, or can equilibrate quickly because they are not totally isolated by a solid boundary (i.e., are not tightly sealed to your face).

The reason why the fog quickly disappears when you breath on an object is because, while the temperature difference between your breath and the surface is great, the surrounding air quickly reduces in temperature as you stop breathing, making condensation no less energetically favorable.

The theory behind this is not simple, if you simply Wiki "adsorption," so if you think you can make a totally fog-proof scope, that is quite an accomplishment.

Also, there's no point in complaining to me. I'm not the company that made the scope that fogged up on you. If a fogless scope exists, I don't know about it, but I hope you do find it.

If there was nothing scope manufacturers could do, then the windows of jets would fog up. What is it that stops the windows of jets from fogging, what stops industrial safety glasses from fogging, that scope manufacturers can not replicate?

Two things:

1.) The windows in jets are formed from two layers, an exterior layer, then a layer of air, then an internal layer. The layer of air serves as insulation and allows minimal heat transfer, hence it would be fine to assume that the internal glass layer is around the temperature of the cabin, while the external glass layer is around the temperature of the outside. There are no huge surface-air temperature differences where condensation would be favorable.

2.) Even if I'm just making up (1.), jets travel at around 0.8 Mach, which is around 600 MPH. The static pressure is extremely low, which, according to simple models of adsorption, makes condensation less favorable.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top