YAGT: OMG I love guns

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velillen

Platinum Member
Jul 12, 2006
2,120
1
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Whats your favorite online retailer for guns?

whoever has it cheapest....

budsgunshop is a good starting place. cdnninvestments is good if they carry what you want. Otherwise just browse as many sites as you can for the best deals. Check out slickguns as well for deals and maybe there will be one for the gun you want

Also check local stores. I usually end up buying locally cause by the time you add in FFL fees im paying close to what the gun store has it for anyways. Some local stores will order you exactly what you want too.
 

adairusmc

Diamond Member
Jul 24, 2006
7,095
78
91
I was playing around with my M1a Socom 16 tonight, and added a MOE rail to the stock and a Magpul AFG2 grip. I really like the feel of the rifle better with the AFG, and it is a whole lot cheaper dremeling out a bit of the inside of the stock than it is to buy a different stock entirely for it. Hoping to try it out with the new grip this weekend.

7792569166_f8a15cfdd2_h.jpg
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
6,161
2
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So I have a question about cleaning. In general, do you use something like hoppes #9/elite to clean the barrel (is that all that needs cleaning?), then oil for the entire outside surface, then a grease for metal on metal parts?

I use rem oil for cleaning, and then hoppes lubricant for lubing contact points. Thats about it.
 

velillen

Platinum Member
Jul 12, 2006
2,120
1
81
So I have a question about cleaning. In general, do you use something like hoppes #9/elite to clean the barrel (is that all that needs cleaning?), then oil for the entire outside surface, then a grease for metal on metal parts?


Go to YouTube. There's literally thousands of videos on how to clean guns. Same with probably how to clean your specific gun.

As for what's used...everyone has there methods. Hicock45 uses only ballastial (think that's what it was) for everything vs other who use grease and all sorts of stuff.

I use hopped elite to clean and hoppes Lube for Lube. Works good enough for me though I'm wanting to try ultrasonic cleaning at some point
 

BladeVenom

Lifer
Jun 2, 2005
13,540
16
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Go to YouTube. There's literally thousands of videos on how to clean guns. Same with probably how to clean your specific gun.

As for what's used...everyone has there methods. Hicock45 uses only ballastial (think that's what it was) for everything vs other who use grease and all sorts of stuff.

I think every gun has their own lubrication guide. Their instruction manuals are available on the web. Even before the web was popular, most would mail you a free instruction manual if you asked.

Ballistol for everything is one way to go. Although having a stronger solvent around will make cleaning out the barrel easier if it's really fouled up.
 

IGemini

Platinum Member
Nov 5, 2010
2,473
2
81
So I have a question about cleaning. In general, do you use something like hoppes #9/elite to clean the barrel (is that all that needs cleaning?), then oil for the entire outside surface, then a grease for metal on metal parts?

General rule: any exposed metal on a gun needs to be cleaned and oiled. That means barrel, slide, and frame if applicable. Oil is used afterword to preserve, lubricate and prevent rusting. Carbon can accumulate virtually anywhere on a gun. Cleaning wood isn't a bad idea, polymer can manage without. Don't go nuts with the application of either: the barrel should only need to be cleaned until a dry patch will come out clean, and only a thin layer of oil is needed. Check the manual for specifics.

Another user of Hoppes Elite and oil. CLP and G96 are good all-in-one treatment options.
 

Kelvrick

Lifer
Feb 14, 2001
18,438
5
81
I'm a little more meticulous than others when cleaning. I kind of do an assembly line. Break down everything, then wipe down with patches and q-tips, then do a coat with weaponshield clp.
Move to next weapon, clean and coat.
Repeat until finished.
Go back to first weapon, wipe off CLP.
Put slide glide lite on rails, barrels, other metal on metal contact points as assembling.

Additional steps as needed are breaking out a set of dental picks for residue in hard to reach areas, filling barrel with borefoam, using harsher chemicals such as sweets 7.62.

Most of my cleaning is done with shotgun patches, cheap store brand q-tips and an otis flexible cable kit.

Note, when people say CLP, they generally are referring to Breakfree CLP. CLP = clean lube and protect, so it is just a type of chemical you can buy. There are tons of "CLP" but most people refer to Breakfree CLP as CLP since it is a standard.
 

Merad

Platinum Member
May 31, 2010
2,586
19
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So after using break free clp you don't need to add anything else? Seems a little too easy lol.

What really gets dirty besides the barrel?

In theory CLP is sufficient. Personally I still use oil/grease in addition to it.

Pretty much everything around the chamber will get coated with carbon residue after shooting. You can also expect carbon to be stuck around the front of the slide from the muzzle blast and pretty much anywhere that there happened to be excess oil.
 

Blitzvogel

Platinum Member
Oct 17, 2010
2,012
23
81
I was playing around with my M1a Socom 16 tonight, and added a MOE rail to the stock and a Magpul AFG2 grip. I really like the feel of the rifle better with the AFG, and it is a whole lot cheaper dremeling out a bit of the inside of the stock than it is to buy a different stock entirely for it. Hoping to try it out with the new grip this weekend.

7792569166_f8a15cfdd2_h.jpg

I'm so *JEAL-ous*
 

velillen

Platinum Member
Jul 12, 2006
2,120
1
81
Pretty much everything around the chamber will get coated with carbon residue after shooting. You can also expect carbon to be stuck around the front of the slide from the muzzle blast and pretty much anywhere that there happened to be excess oil.

Like Merad said basically the whole gun will get dirty. Even down inside the magazines will get a bit dirty. Not super dirty or anything but if you disassemble them and run a patch through itll be dirty. I clean mine probably every 500 rounds or so (between two magazines).

Just field strip it and clean everything you can get. If you buy it at a gun store and they arent busy im betting they will even field strip it and point out areas to pay attention to. Ive noticed the gun sales guys rather enjoy when you let them stroke their knowledge :)
 

irishScott

Lifer
Oct 10, 2006
21,568
3
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So after using break free clp you don't need to add anything else? Seems a little too easy lol.

What really gets dirty besides the barrel?

I've used that method for years, but then again my guns are reliable when completely dry. :p

Comes down to personal preference really, unless you're shooting black powder which is a slightly different animal. Just check to make sure whatever cleaner you use is safe for Polymer (if you ever buy a gun with polymer parts). Hoppes and some others will actually dissolve polymer, wherase break free and some others are safe for everything. There'll usually be specifics in a gun's manual.
 

Kelvrick

Lifer
Feb 14, 2001
18,438
5
81
I've used that method for years, but then again my guns are reliable when completely dry. :p

Comes down to personal preference really, unless you're shooting black powder which is a slightly different animal. Just check to make sure whatever cleaner you use is safe for Polymer (if you ever buy a gun with polymer parts). Hoppes and some others will actually dissolve polymer, wherase break free and some others are safe for everything. There'll usually be specifics in a gun's manual.

Got any proof of that? I know glock says if its for guns, use it. I consider it an old wives tale told in hushed tones to scare the newbies away from plastic to good 'ole metal. If I'm wrong though, let me know.
 

Merad

Platinum Member
May 31, 2010
2,586
19
81
Got any proof of that? I know glock says if its for guns, use it. I consider it an old wives tale told in hushed tones to scare the newbies away from plastic to good 'ole metal. If I'm wrong though, let me know.

Totally depends on the type of polymer/plastic. I doubt anything modern of decent quality will be hurt by it.
 

BladeVenom

Lifer
Jun 2, 2005
13,540
16
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Question about DA/SA...

I see that many (all?) DA/SA guns cock the hammer back when the slide is racked to load a bullet. Great, cool. But unless you lower the hammer really slowly (inherently dangerous), or have a decocker, wouldnt this make it SA pretty much all of the time?

What DA/SA gun doesn't have a decocker?
 

jpeyton

Moderator in SFF, Notebooks, Pre-Built/Barebones
Moderator
Aug 23, 2003
25,375
142
116
Seems like a lot ive seen have safeties only. The CZ 75B has no decocker, just a safety (the 75BD has a decocker).
Not all handguns are made to be carried the same way. Depending on what kind of features it has:

Condition Four: Chamber empty, no magazine, hammer down.
Condition Three: Chamber empty, full magazine in place, hammer down.
Condition Two: A round chambered, full magazine in place, hammer down.
Condition One: A round chambered, full magazine in place, hammer cocked, safety on.
Condition Zero: A round chambered, full magazine in place, hammer cocked, safety off.

For example, my PT92 (which is DA/SA with a safety and decocker) can be carried safely in condition 1-3. Condition 0 for me is ready to fire, and only applies after I draw the handgun from the holster. Condition 4 doesn't apply to concealed carry.
 

BladeVenom

Lifer
Jun 2, 2005
13,540
16
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Seems like a lot ive seen have safeties only. The CZ 75B has no decocker, just a safety (the 75BD has a decocker).

Then carry it cocked with the safety on.

All the SA/DA I've shot have had a decocker. PPK and clones, Beretta, S&W, P38, Sig, etc.

I've never had a CZ-75, and all the clones I've looked at have had a decocker.
 
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