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Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by ManBearPig, May 23, 2012.
It should function with what was factory installed. What leads you to believe you need to replace parts, beyond say...the grips?
Fire it first. Also, it's a 9mm so you WANT to be able to fire +P+ for defense. I only load my 1911 with +P for defense when firing hollowpoints. Racking the slide should be a non-issue. It's just going to be a little hard until you learn to do it right. My 1911 has a 23lb spring on it...which is one of the most painful springs to fight with when pulling the slide back...but I do it without issue, so I don't want to hear it
Instead, look into a trigger pull modification, which will have zero effect on the recoil sping.
Range report -
All targets were at 8 yards.
Test fired the SIG P938 (9mm) - First time shooting this gun and my impression is this, very accurate side arm for the size, the trigger hurts like hell from the recoil but it's probably a "not used to it" type thing.
1 - This was the first gun + first clip of the night.
2 - Towards the end of the night after 80ish rounds
Glock 22 (.40 cal) - first time shooting this gun groupings where everywhere.
Walther PPS - My personal carry gun
Average groupings, this was after the glock 22.
How far from the targets?
Sorry - I'll add that to my topic.
All targets were at 8 yards.
The one thing a lot of people recommend for the CZ75 is to get the comp hammer installed and the trigger tuned by CZcustom. This makes the DA and SA pulls lighter. People have noted "drastic" improvement over the factor pull. If you change the springs out, I'm sure it'll make for a better range gun. It all depends on what you want to use it for.
As for me, I'm actually pretty satisfied with how the trigger is now, I'm getting used to the DA. I think I'll keep this gun stock.
The part at the end of the slide which the barrel goes through.
You can grease up the barrel if you want. The most important part to lube on the barrel are the locking lugs in front of the chamber, put a light coat on those, you'll want to reduce friction there.
On certain parts, the finish will wear almost instantly: the hammer, where it hits the pin, the part of the trigger close to its hinge, the slide rail, and the rod of the takedown lever. This wear doesn't effect function (if anything it makes the function smoother).
This - the finish will just wear in come places. Tennifer is the only finish I've never seen wear much.
Got this guy in today.. Can't wait to try it out
Drying my ammo before I store it!
What 1600 rounds looks like.
Can I have the brass after you shoot it??
If you drive down to MN, sure.
Isn't this what desiccant is for? Buy a large package of those things, put one or two in each large container of ammo
I think I've got something like 2500 rounds in storage right now...really need to pick up more 30-06 safe for my garand and some 12ga 00buck.
I'm a little more paranoid about moisture then that. I have packets in the ammo can's but I like them to be dried out of the box before I store them.
Yeah, I've got 1K in 5.56 and 1K in 9mm that I've just left in the boxes in a dry area of the house. *shrug* Water/moisture damage to live rounds, is that even really a concern?
My view has always been "meh" - I shoot the oldest ammo first, but I have some 1970s Greek HXP ammo in enblock clips for my Garand. They weren't stored in the best condition, and you can see they were annealed, but every single one goes bang. I'm not that worried about moisture, but I'm also in WA which while rainy doesn't have any real humidity to speak of.
Shouldn't be. The primer seats into the pocket tightly and shouldn't allow any water in, and that's only if you reload. If buying retail ammo, it'll probably have a sealant painted over the edges of the primer. It's usually red.
There is Ionbond that they are using on some guns now. I think it's suppose to be the hardest, but it is thin.
Why not just get a dehumidifier for the cabinet or whatever you store the ammo at? Seems like it woul dbe easier than drying em like that and it would keep them from any moisture too (well to an extent)
As for me its not something i worry about to much (like Rampart im in WA though). I've shot ammo from back when my dad got it 30 years ago. He never stored it any special way. All of it shot perfectly.
As for what currently loaded ammo i have...not including 22lr...quick count and im around 3k or so....i think. With 22lr add in another 7k rounds lol.
Of course add in what i could be at (with my reloading components) and i have enough to have 13k or so (not including 22lr).....though i dont have enough brass to actually do that.
o yeah and Rampart did you get your Garand from CMP? Definitely started to get interested in getting one sometime in the next 6 months or so.
I used to shoot almost exclusively Winchester White Box, which was the cheapest brass cased 9mm from Walmart. But I've also shot plenty of Tula (steel cased) without any problem. It really isn't bad on the gun, but if you look around you'll find all kinds of people arguing back and forth about brass vs steel case.
This thread needs more pictures. Here's my GSG-5PK.
Generally, I'd avoid steel. It can affect the gun's lifespan if the gun isn't meant for it. More than that, some ranges won't allow it. Look at cheaper than dirt. Buy the cheapest FMJ rounds you can there, preferably in bulk (500 or 1000 round case.)