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YAGT: OMG I love guns

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RampantAndroid said:
having VISIBLE machining marks is beyond terrible
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You mean like this or this or this or...well maybe tool marks happen to S&W too, but maybe that's just acceptable to you😉

Taurus makes an acceptable gun for a very good price, my wife has a PT92 and it's been 100% reliable and looks perfect, I even have one of those 24/7's from that video and aside from not liking some cheap ass Russian ammo it's been flawless as well. Every manufacturer has defects now and then, it happens, but go on hating Taurus, it takes all kinds
 
corwin said:
You mean like this or this or this or...well maybe tool marks happen to S&W too, but maybe that's just acceptable to you😉

Taurus makes an acceptable gun for a very good price, my wife has a PT92 and it's been 100% reliable and looks perfect, I even have one of those 24/7's from that video and aside from not liking some cheap ass Russian ammo it's been flawless as well. Every manufacturer has defects now and then, it happens, but go on hating Taurus, it takes all kinds
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No. I mean WAY worse than that.

I went digging again for a couple minutes and came up blank. The thread is a few years old. The guy had a revolver of some kind (Taurus, dunno what caliber anymore) that basically couldn't even shoot a single round. They REALLY tried to give him the run around on an obviously defective gun.

S&W may have its own issues, but from what I've seen of Taurus, you're really gambling.
 
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RampantAndroid said:
I can't find the thread anymore, but on the firingline forums, I remember someone with a Taurus 357 revolver. It had machining marks all over the bore and cylinder, wouldn't fire reliably and Taurus didn't fix it correctly. I don't expect it to look as amazing as a S&W 29-2 that was taken care out, or even a current 29-10, but having VISIBLE machining marks is beyond terrible.

There are few firearms I advise people to totally avoid, but the Taurus guns make that short list.
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I had a PT111

the only machining marks I had were on the feed ramps

really not a big deal.

the only ammo it wouldn't feed were the big hydrashoks, I was able to feed critical duty, golden saber, and all the cheap target ammo I threw it at

few thousand rounds and I never had a single malfunction

hard for me to tell someone to avoid a gun that was that reliable for so cheap


there 1911's have a pretty good rep too
 
Zargon said:
I had a PT111

the only machining marks I had were on the feed ramps

really not a big deal.

the only ammo it wouldn't feed were the big hydrashoks, I was able to feed critical duty, golden saber, and all the cheap target ammo I threw it at

few thousand rounds and I never had a single malfunction

hard for me to tell someone to avoid a gun that was that reliable for so cheap


there 1911's have a pretty good rep too
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*their

And that's great - I'm glad you did OK. I have a hard time letting anyone I know or care about buying a Taurus given that if you DO have problems you're stuck with terrible customer service.
 
RampantAndroid said:
And that's great - I'm glad you did OK. I have a hard time letting anyone I know or care about buying a Taurus given that if you DO have problems you're stuck with terrible customer service
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Customer service stories vary, and are all up to the person telling them...I could relate a story about how S&W wouldn't fix something too, never mind that I called them being an asshat and cussing them out as soon as they answered😛

Taurus sells thousands of guns each year, a few anecdotes of bad experiences can't account for that
 
That M&P Shield didn't look like a big deal to me. It's not something I'd want to see on a $2000 semi-custom (or better), but on a $400 gun, who cares as long as it doesn't affect function.

The 686 and Walther, on the other hand, would bother me. I guess it would depend on the accuracy as to whether or not I'd be giving them a call.
 
exdeath said:
Visible machine and tooling marks? Every gun I own is a piece of crap then including H&K and Arsenal.
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...what the hell do you own? If I look at my garand, I find very visible tooling marks. I expect to. I tear down my 1911....I don't see that. Or on my Model 1897 (made in 1911) or even on my S&W revolvers (and I've pulled them apart.)

I don't see tooling marks in the chamber or the cylinders of my guns. I don't have issues seating a round in my revolvers (which the Taurus I'm thinking of did have.)

Other issues I've seen are like this one:
ratchet.jpg


Multiple trips to Taurus were involved in that one. Not dangerous to shoot per se, but certainly not reliable.

I look at H&K guns, I see people saying it costs too much. I look at S&W guns I see people complaining about the lock built into the revolvers. I look at Taurus and I find a billion "is taurus that bad" "should I not buy taurus?" "omg look at my shitty taurus" threads. I'm not sure if they're better or worse than Norinco...

You're far better off getting a cheap Springfield or at worst, a Rock Island 1911.
 
shortylickens said:
I just realized even with all the crap I have, still dont got a revolver.

I think I'd like to get one of Rugers target single-six models.
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My wife has the single 10 22lr and it is very sweet. Pin prick accurate and the single action trigger helps with excellent precision. It also looks very nice too!
 
It's always seemed like Taurus's revolvers were some of their better offerings. Not because they're GREAT, but because they've always seemed to work...and revolver guts are hell of a lot harder to build than typical semiauto guts.

That's what confuses me a lot...it's just not that hard to build a semiauto that works. I've personally dealt with zero that ever had more than minor, easily fixed problems. Does the slide fully cycle? Is the feed ramp smooth? Magazine lips unbent? If yes to all, then it PROBABLY works fine. How someone's QC could be bad enough to come out with these constantly jamming guns (when others of the same model sometimes work just fine), I dunno. It seems like it always related to issues with the owner.

Maybe the gun came from the factory needing a little 'break-in.' Maybe that manufacturer uses copious amounts of shitty packing grease. IMO, if you can't overcome minor issues like that, you probably shouldn't own guns. And god fordbid the same people actually DO get one with a bad part...they'll probably never find it. Whether they are completely 'at fault' or not, shitty gun owners are the reason there is so much dubious gun info on the internet.

Re: tool marks...there's a differenence between 'they forgot to finish machining this part' (a big QC issue that I'd prefer not to see from anyone I'd buy a firearm from) and 'there are marks inside this gun.' A lot of respected manufacturers are well-known to be lazy with non-critical parts. Obviously I follow CZ stuff a lot, and CZ has always seems very known for leaving rough spots in hidden areas. It's just not a problem. The clones I own ALL look prettier inside, and they function damn good...but if I had to pick something to have for a long time and depend on...I'd probably take the genuine CZ.
 
Oh, and somebody asked about buying a revolver...old Colt! I loves me some old Colt. A brand new Taurus is a fucking caveman boomstick compared to heavily-used .38 Colt. God I love them.

They've gotten hard to find for decent money, though. I see a lot more old S&W's. Debating picking one up. Anyone have any opinions to offer on an Official Police or Police Positive versus a comparable S&W .38?
 
The big issue with Colt revolvers is finding a smith to deal with them, if you even need it. It's why I keep eyeing a Python or Cobra and don't bite. That, and cost.
 
RampantAndroid said:
The big issue with Colt revolvers is finding a smith to deal with them, if you even need it. It's why I keep eyeing a Python or Cobra and don't bite. That, and cost.
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I mostly just wanna replace the Colt OP that I sold. Functionally perfect but some missing blueing and a worn grip. Still looked great, IMO...probably got $350 for it, maybe? Now it seems like a decent postwar gun is 400-500.

I like the Official Police for being the closest affordable thing to the original turn-of-the-century Colt DA design...which itself is a lot like the SAA. Nice guns. 50's and 60's models were hella well-made, but are just not quite desirable enough to bring the big bucks for your average .38. If I could get an OP is good 'shooter' condition for 300-400 I'd jump on it.
 
phucheneh said:
I mostly just wanna replace the Colt OP that I sold. Functionally perfect but some missing blueing and a worn grip. Still looked great, IMO...probably got $350 for it, maybe? Now it seems like a decent postwar gun is 400-500.

I like the Official Police for being the closest affordable thing to the original turn-of-the-century Colt DA design...which itself is a lot like the SAA. Nice guns. 50's and 60's models were hella well-made, but are just not quite desirable enough to bring the big bucks for your average .38. If I could get an OP is good 'shooter' condition for 300-400 I'd jump on it.
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Start cruising armslist and gunbroker 🙂
 
Should I have any concerns about the mechanical stress being put on a gun while sitting with it in a IWB holster? If so, any ideas on how to minimize it?
 
Bird222 said:
Should I have any concerns about the mechanical stress being put on a gun while sitting with it in a IWB holster? If so, any ideas on how to minimize it?
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I don't see any reason for concern. These guns aren't brittle, they can handle having an explosion happen in the chamber 🙂
 
Does anyone remember a youtube video of a guy making kydex holsters with a vacuum? He was using a membrane in his setup and was getting really good definition. You could even see some of the numbering on the gun embedded in the kydex. I can't find this guy for life of me now.
 
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