no, a BOV will help at any boost level. Just in an auto it's not really necessary unless you like to floor it into boost and step completely off the throttle.
no, a BOV will help at any boost level. Just in an auto it's not really necessary unless you like to floor it into boost and step completely off the throttle.
It's common sense.
I don't care if your brothers girlfriends cousin's siters Buick turbo lasted 200,000 miles. Maybe her routine involved idling her car before turning it off, there's no way for us to know.
Shutting the car down with a smoking hot turbo can cause problems. A turbo timer is designed to eliminate these problems.
Sure, you can do it yourself without a timer. It's for convienence.
Saying that they're worthless is stupid. It's like saying an aux. ATF cooler is stupid. Sure, your transmission fluid may not overheat without it, but is keeping your transmission fluid a little cooler a bad thing?
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
- Jul 3, 2003
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Maybe if you are installing a system with no bypass valve you would need a BOV but look at the Subaru WRX-STi, that car does not come with a BOV and it is a fact that the only thing adding a BOV to an STi will do is make it go whoosh everytime you let off the throttle. It is a complete waste of money on that application anyway.
There's no point in arguing in a forum made for computer geeks. Car nerds and computer geeks don't mix.
And yes, even the STI has a bov, it's just called a Bypass valve because it doesn't blow off to the atmosphere to make that WHOOSH sound. Instead, it gets recirculated.
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
- Jul 3, 2003
- 74,561
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Well, if you're buying a turbo kit I would assume it comes with the necessary parts not to blow apart the engine. If it doesn't it probably isn't a very good kit. Just telling someone to arbitrarily put a BOV and a turbo timer on a car doesn't make much sense. I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume the kit would include a bypass valve?
All a turbo timer does is idle the engine for about a minute after you shut it off. You could accomplish this by simply driving easy for the last 30 seconds of your journey. Pulling in the parking lot and cruising for a parking space would probably accomplish this. Try not driving with the engine bouncing off the rev limiter down your street before pulling in the garage. There, I've saved you $500.
First off, a turbo timer doesn't cost $500. It costs under $100.
Secondly, buying a turbo kit doesn't guarantee that your car will be safe from blowing up. However, most turbo kits include instructions and safeguards to MINIMIZE your chances of blowing up the engine. Obviously, if the end user is stupid enough advance his base timing too far with a turbo, then no turbo kit in the world will save it from doom.
Bypass valve and BOV are usually used interchangably - the only difference between the two is that one gets re-routed back into the intake, hence the term bypass, and the other vents out to the atmosphere. True, you don't need a BOV or a bypass valve, but your turbo is going to get compressor surge and it'll shorten the lifespan of it.
So, what kind of turbo car do you own? I guarantee you that even on a hot day, the temp of the oil around the turbo shaft is well under the normal operating temp. And if turbo timers where so valuable why don't manufactors come up with factory timers? If the cheaper turbo cars like a neon didn't have one, surely a $100k Porsche would have own if they worked?
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
- Jul 3, 2003
- 74,561
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No sh!t sherlock! I never said a turbo timer costs $500. The combination of a BOV and turbo timer would set you back around $500 (for a decent quality one anyway).
Bypass valve and BOV are not the same thing. There is a difference, hence the different terminology. These people spouting off here saying that you must get a BOV if you have a turbo have heard too many turbocharged 2F2F cars whooshing between shifts, creamed their pants and are just regurgitating their common lack of knowledge.
geno
Lifer
- Dec 26, 1999
- 25,074
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Idling your car own properly won't kill your bearings/shaft after hard boosting, you don't need to spend 300 bucks to do this. And a BOV doesn't regulate maximum boost, that's what a wastegate is for, so what does that have to do with blowing your IC plumbing up?
It all depends on how many psi. Don't ask for this kind of advice on anand, most of what you will get is BS. Go learn some real info at www.team-integra.net.
I can't believe how much misinformation is going on in this thread.
Uhh... my car's NEVER been turbo timed... by me or the previous owner... factory turbo is boosting at 150K with no shaft play or any problems whatsoever. In fact, I'm running 2.5psi more boost than stock and have done so for 22k. I run synthetic oil ONLY... it will not coke or lose it's ability to lubricate at temps my car (or most any car) is capable of. If the oil did reach that temp, I'd be more concerned about my coolant staying in rather than turbo! Heck, even most conventional oils have very high tolerances nowadays if they're drained at regular intervals.
You need a blow-off valve or compressor bypass valve to relieve excess pressure from the turbo when you close the throttle plate. All that pressuried air has to go somewhere if its not heading out the engine through the exhaust and if you don't relieve that pressure, it will stall and come back at your compressor blades on your turbo trying to reverse the airflow. That's compressor surge and it's actually audible in most cases. (I'm treating BOVs as compressor bypass valves since there are aftermarket BOVs that you can recirculate to act as CBVs)
It doesn't matter if you're running 7psi or 30psi. You need a blowoff valve/cbv if you are driving on the street. If you're trailing a race car that never closes the throttle until the end of a 1320... you prolly won't even bother to run a BOV or run one with such a hard spring that it will surge unless you're boosting past 30psi.
Most Honda turbo kits are pretty simple... water is tapped from a thermostat housing and oil from the pan or filter housing. It's protecting your car with proper tuning and maintenance that will effect the lifespan of ANY performance car. You tune it like crap and run too rich or too lean... you'll accelerate wear and break parts that much faster. Detonation is the enemy!
I love my DSM... and hate it too... rusty POS 2G. T2small BEEYACH!! I'm saving up for a EVO3 16G setup now. Having a 280hp DSM doesn't mean you know turbos... it's sad how many DSMers are misinformed by posts on DSMtuners, DSMtalk, etc... lots of WRONG info on the intarweb. Then again, I hate the friggin snobs that won't share info and belittle people just as much.
it's not psi, there's more to it than that... it's also about airflow, fuel delivery, head gaskets, etcetcetc.
he knows what he's talking about here :beer:
My stock turbo is 17 years old, has close to 90k on it and has been running 24psi for ~2 years. My turbo shaft is still as tight as if it was new.
If you're paying $500 for a bov and a turbo timer, you've been had.
Bypass and BOV are slightly different but they perform the same function and I have yet to see a car that's turbocharged that doesn't have either.
Weren't you the same dude that said "You don't need a bov unless you're running 20psi or more?" a few posts up? Even if you're running 7psi of boost, you will need a bov or a way to recirculate, unless you don't give a sh!t about your turbo and plan to replace it more often.
Part of it does depend on where you live. I don't think there's really a blanket statement anyone of us can say one way or another. For instance, I live on top of a pretty steep hill. It's a high grade from 80' above sea level to 1260', covering a pretty good distance. I've found both 1st gen and 2nd gen (90 GSX & 96 GST) are boosting 6+ psi on the entire run, and the turbos will glow by the time I get home (TD05-14b, , TD05-16G, TD06-20G, and T-too small). In those cases, it's wise to either allow the car to cool off a bit, or install an inexpensive timer.
I absolutely agree that most people don't need a timer, but there are indeed cases where the addition of a timer will save you either money or time in the long run.
YES and definately the transmission, but probably wont reduce the life span too much - it really depends on how the car has been treated in the past and how it will be treated in the future. Once a problem car, always a problem car.
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