YACT: Storing a car in the winter

[archcommus]

I just bought a new 2007 Cobalt. At the end of the summer I'll be going to college and won't be taking it with me. But it won't be sitting for 8 months steady. When I'm home for a weekend, usually at least every 5-6 weeks, and for Christmas and spring break, I'll drive it. We don't have a garage. So what things should I do during those multi-week intervals of non-use to keep it in perfect shape? Disconnect the battery? Change the oil at the end of the summer, or wait until next summer? (only has 200 some miles on it right now, plan to not exceed 3000 by the end of the summer) Obviously since it won't be garaged I need a good car cover. Something that will protect it but also let it breathe properly. Remember that this isn't long term storage, usually 5-6 weeks, then drive it a couple days, then another 5-6 weeks, then drive it for 2 weeks, etc. until next summer.

Also, how often should I get it washed and waxed all summer to preserve the paint and finish? Is every two weeks enough?

Thanks.

 

[boomerang]

Well, your profile doesn't say where you live but here goes.

Don't disconnect the battery. You could end up causing more problems for yourself by doing that. For that period of time it should be fine. However, if there is an electrical outlet nearby, a Battery Tender would be a great thing to have. These people make great products. I use them myself. With one of those in place, the car will always start and you'll get maximum life out of your battery.

For the driving you'll do, I would change the oil once a year, regardless of mileage. The oil that's in there now is as high a quality as you could buy. It will be fine to leave in until the first change. Most GM cars have oil-life indicators now. Mine comes on at about 11,000 miles. They've done the engineering and the algorithm crunching, they have to warranty the motor, so I go by their recommendations. For the driving you'll be doing, I think you'll find your owner?s manual will say once a year regardless of mileage. Take a look.

Your car cover idea is good. I can't help you with specifics but you've got the right idea based on everything I've ever read.

I would think every two weeks would be plenty. I wash once a month and wax never. I shouldn't comment because keeping the interior clean is more important to me.

A few more things;

When returning home and before driving, take a close look at the tires. Low profile tires that are used nowadays make it difficult to tell when the air pressure is low. With a low sidewall tire height, you can ruin a tire from the inside really quick if it gets low on air. The sidewall will bunch together and scrub together inside where you can't see. Check your tire pressure before driving.

Also when driving, try to drive it on long enough trips to fully warm it up. This will burn off any moisture that has condensed inside the motor and is diluting your oil. If you can't full warm it up (a good hour of steady driving) you may want to change the oil more frequently.

Once again, you don't say where you live, so things could vary somewhat depending on if you live in Maine or Arizona.

 

[Blain]

Make sure you use a car cover that can breathe.
Store it with a FULL tank of gas and fuel stabalizer.

> Saturday Mechanic: Storing Your Car <

 

[thedarkwolf]

nothing other then the normal oil changes.

 

[Mir96TA]

I parked my TransAm in Sep of 2006
and took it out Yesterday.
I lost 1 Gal of Gas. I took it to Gas Station and refilled. I had it full when I parked my Car.
It was hard start (Slow Crank) but it cranked up at one Crank.
I let it Idle for a Min then Drove it away.
If you have a Good Battery you should be OKay.
I didn't unplug the Battery cause I hate redo all my Radio Station and PCM for car.
My Car need almost 50-70 miles off driving before PCM can learn about the Eninge (My car has MODS)

 

[archcommus]

Thanks, boomerang. Sorry for not including the location. I live near Pittsburgh, so protecting it from the elements is very important. As Blain mentioned, I need a good car cover that can breathe. Also as he noted I will fill it with gas and insert a whole bottle of Stabil as well.

I won't disconnect the battery. There is an outlet about 20 feet from where it'll be parked, so if you think it's worth it I could buy the tender and run an extension cord. You're right about the oil. It says to do it when the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on, or at least once a year, whichever comes first, so I guess I should just do it next summer when I come home.

I'll also be sure to check the tire pressure after any extended period of sitting. A question, if the tires lose some air over any period of time, now while I'm using it or this winter when it's sitting, is that normal or does that mean the tires have a leak? Also is it normal to see a slight bulge on the bottom sidewall when the car is sitting parked? I used to think this indicated it was probably a little low, but a few of the tires sometimes look like that, and sometimes they don't, but they all seem to have about 34 PSI.

Thanks.

 

[compnovice]

boomerang: what problems can ypo face when you disconnect the battery?

 

[Gillbot]

Your car will have to relear all of it's long term fuel trims. that's the #1 setback. Your car basically learns your driving style and will adjust accordingly, when you remove the battery, the PCM resets to default and has to relearn all over.

 

[Colt45]

I wouldn't bother doing anything special.. leave the battery connected, etc.

But - definitely wash it before you park it, every time. goddamn salt.



for low mileage car i change the oil once in the fall, and once in the spring.. lighter oil in the winter.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Blain
Make sure you use a car cover that can breathe.
Store it with a FULL tank of gas and fuel stabalizer.

> Saturday Mechanic: Storing Your Car <

You don't need fuel stabilizer for only 8 months. All major brand gasoline should last at least 12 months without a stabilizer. Just make sure that you park the car with a full tank of gas each time you leave it to prevent condensation in the tank. That's really all you need to do.

Back to the OP:

I'm not a fan of outdoor car covers because they tend to scratch the paint when grit is trapped between them and the car, plus they do tend to blow around a bit. Modern car finishes won't have an issue with sitting outside year-round.

Change the oil before putting the car into "storage" and also change it when you take the car out of "storage". Even if you don't drive much, it's best to not have old oil sitting in the car, and even if you don't drive it much in the winter, there will be some condensation that gets into the oil, so it's a good idea to change it once again in the spring. It's probably overkill to change it again in the spring, but it cannot hurt and is a very cheap way to get some peace of mind.

Wash every week or two and wax twice a year. No need to wax every time you wash.

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: archcommus
Thanks, boomerang. Sorry for not including the location. I live near Pittsburgh, so protecting it from the elements is very important. As Blain mentioned, I need a good car cover that can breathe. Also as he noted I will fill it with gas and insert a whole bottle of Stabil as well.

You don't need the Sta-Bil, your gasoline won't be even close to going bad even after 8 months. As for the elements, I left my Porsche parked outside and un-covered when I lived in Pittsburgh with no ill-effects. It's not worth worrying about a cover (and a decent outdoor cover will run you $300-$500).

Originally posted by: archcommus
I won't disconnect the battery. There is an outlet about 20 feet from where it'll be parked, so if you think it's worth it I could buy the tender and run an extension cord. You're right about the oil. It says to do it when the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on, or at least once a year, whichever comes first, so I guess I should just do it next summer when I come home.

Still better to change the oil before storing the car, rather than after.

Originally posted by: archcommus
I'll also be sure to check the tire pressure after any extended period of sitting. A question, if the tires lose some air over any period of time, now while I'm using it or this winter when it's sitting, is that normal or does that mean the tires have a leak? Also is it normal to see a slight bulge on the bottom sidewall when the car is sitting parked? I used to think this indicated it was probably a little low, but a few of the tires sometimes look like that, and sometimes they don't, but they all seem to have about 34 PSI.

Thanks.

Modern radial-ply tires always have a slight bulge. This is normal. 34 PSI is fine, your car may recommend different, but 34 is generally considered a safe pressure for a modern passenger car and many places will simply default to 32-34 PSI inflation pressures regardless of the vehicle.

ZV

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: compnovice
boomerang: what problems can PO face when you disconnect the battery?

I don't actively work on cars anymore, but I earned my living doing so in the past and used to work on them at home considerably along with crewing on a local racing team. http://www.djrace.com/ Having said that, my understanding is that some cars now, when having the battery disconnected will actually not start unless a routine is gone through. And it's not one spelled out in the manual. Sorry if this is vague, but I don't know any specifics. Having said that, I don't believe that GM has any vehicles on the road that this would apply to. But I have been out of the game too long to say.

My main concern is the possibility of an enormous spark if someone uninformed disconnects the positive cable first. It's very easy to touch a wrench up against a steel surface and you can have an arc, the wrench can actually weld itself to the surface and get extremely hot. There are lots of amps in an automotive battery. They can be dangerous.

Second row down, lefmost picture, the guy on the right is me.

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: archcommus
Thanks, boomerang. Sorry for not including the location. I live near Pittsburgh, so protecting it from the elements is very important. As Blain mentioned, I need a good car cover that can breathe. Also as he noted I will fill it with gas and insert a whole bottle of Stabil as well.

I won't disconnect the battery. There is an outlet about 20 feet from where it'll be parked, so if you think it's worth it I could buy the tender and run an extension cord. You're right about the oil. It says to do it when the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on, or at least once a year, whichever comes first, so I guess I should just do it next summer when I come home.

I'll also be sure to check the tire pressure after any extended period of sitting. A question, if the tires lose some air over any period of time, now while I'm using it or this winter when it's sitting, is that normal or does that mean the tires have a leak? Also is it normal to see a slight bulge on the bottom sidewall when the car is sitting parked? I used to think this indicated it was probably a little low, but a few of the tires sometimes look like that, and sometimes they don't, but they all seem to have about 34 PSI.

Thanks.

As far as the battery tender goes, I don't think you'll need it myself. The car really won't be sitting all that long. If you were to get one, get the Jr. model and shop online for your best price.

As far as tires, they will lose pressure when they get cold and gain when hot. A tire will lose about 1 PSI for every 10 degrees of temperature drop. To my way of thinking, if the tires are all up or all down the same amount there are no leaks, it's due to temperature changes. If just one is way low, you've got a leak.

Filling the tank is an excellent suggestion. Less air in the tank is less opportunity for condensation.

 

[archcommus]

Once again, thanks ZV. You helped with questions about my old car, now you help with questions about my new one.

I guess I'll take your word for it about not needing the cover, I just didn't like the idea of it sitting there getting snowed on. But if you're sure that won't lead to premature dull paint or rust, I'll believe it. I was prepared to spend up to about $100 on a cover. If you're sure I don't need the Stabil then I won't do that either. So I guess I should just get an oil change in late August and that's it.

Also, the manual says to rotate the tires every time the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on. Do I actually need to do it that often to achieve optimum tire wear uniformity? Or would I be better off sticking to a straight mileage figure, like say every 3000 or 5000 miles.

Thanks.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: archcommus
Once again, thanks ZV. You helped with questions about my old car, now you help with questions about my new one.

I guess I'll take your word for it about not needing the cover, I just didn't like the idea of it sitting there getting snowed on. But if you're sure that won't lead to premature dull paint or rust, I'll believe it. I was prepared to spend up to about $100 on a cover. If you're sure I don't need the Stabil then I won't do that either. So I guess I should just get an oil change in late August and that's it.

Also, the manual says to rotate the tires every time the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on. Do I actually need to do it that often to achieve optimum tire wear uniformity? Or would I be better off sticking to a straight mileage figure, like say every 3000 or 5000 miles.

Thanks.

Snow won't hurt the car. What really rusts the car is road salt. If it's just parked in a driveway, you shouldn't have issues. The best thing you can do for it is give it a good wax before storing it the first time, and then wash it every time you're about to leave home so that it's clean when it sits waiting for you.

As far as the paint, the sun is a bigger worry than winter, sun fades paint and most of the paint damage I've seen is due to sun fading. I will suggest having someone release the parking brake every few days if you use the parking brake, sitting that long with a parking brake on isn't a great idea.

I'm sure about the fuel. Just be sure to always leave the tank full. The Sta-Bil won't hurt anything, but I really don't see a need for it.

The manual gives that interval for tire rotation because it's just easier to rotate the tires when the oil is changed. (You already have the car in the shop, it's already on a lift, it generally coincides with the right mileage interval, etc.) Since you will be changing the oil before the mileage interval, you can stick with a 5,000 mile rotation interval (really that's a rough figure and you can use that as a guideline and then just rotate the tires at the next oil change that's closest to the 5,000 mile mark).

ZV

 

[archcommus]

Originally posted by: boomerang

Originally posted by: archcommus
Thanks, boomerang. Sorry for not including the location. I live near Pittsburgh, so protecting it from the elements is very important. As Blain mentioned, I need a good car cover that can breathe. Also as he noted I will fill it with gas and insert a whole bottle of Stabil as well.

I won't disconnect the battery. There is an outlet about 20 feet from where it'll be parked, so if you think it's worth it I could buy the tender and run an extension cord. You're right about the oil. It says to do it when the "Change Oil Soon" message comes on, or at least once a year, whichever comes first, so I guess I should just do it next summer when I come home.

I'll also be sure to check the tire pressure after any extended period of sitting. A question, if the tires lose some air over any period of time, now while I'm using it or this winter when it's sitting, is that normal or does that mean the tires have a leak? Also is it normal to see a slight bulge on the bottom sidewall when the car is sitting parked? I used to think this indicated it was probably a little low, but a few of the tires sometimes look like that, and sometimes they don't, but they all seem to have about 34 PSI.

Thanks.

As far as the battery tender goes, I don't think you'll need it myself. The car really won't be sitting all that long. If you were to get one, get the Jr. model and shop online for your best price.

As far as tires, they will lose pressure when they get cold and gain when hot. A tire will lose about 1 PSI for every 10 degrees of temperature drop. To my way of thinking, if the tires are all up or all down the same amount there are no leaks, it's due to temperature changes. If just one is way low, you've got a leak.

Filling the tank is an excellent suggestion. Less air in the tank is less opportunity for condensation.

Thanks. What I meant about the tires was, should I expect them to have any less pressure even once the weather got warm again if it was sitting in the driveway for 8 months steady? I was just curious if they ever lose some pressure over time even if there is no leak. Like the manual says to check the pressure at least once a month and add air if necessary, but it doesn't say anything about getting your tires checked out if the pressure was a little low.

Thanks to everyone, you seem to have answered all my questions. And I'm glad I asked, I have to buy and do less now to prepare for the extended park than I was planning.

Just curious, ZV, what Porsche did you park in Pittsburgh, and what area of Pittsburgh did you live in? I'm currently going to school at Pitt in Oakland.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: archcommus
Just curious, ZV, what Porsche did you park in Pittsburgh, and what area of Pittsburgh did you live in? I'm currently going to school at Pitt in Oakland.

When I was in my Sr. year at Pitt in 2003/2004, I had a 1987 924S that I street parked outside of my apartment on Centre Ave. I've got a photo somewhere of the car with about a foot and a half of snow on it.

(Can you tell that I'm a large believer in the idea of driving a car and not babying it? )

ZV

 

[archcommus]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: archcommus
Just curious, ZV, what Porsche did you park in Pittsburgh, and what area of Pittsburgh did you live in? I'm currently going to school at Pitt in Oakland.

When I was in my Sr. year at Pitt in 2003/2004, I had a 1987 924S that I street parked outside of my apartment on Centre Ave. I've got a photo somewhere of the car with about a foot and a half of snow on it.

(Can you tell that I'm a large believer in the idea of driving a car and not babying it? )

ZV

Wow, small world, huh? I'm living in south Oakland, and with how little I need a car there, and with the difficulty of parking and some of the parties those streets see, I'd feel much better leaving it at home, heh.

 

[thomsbrain]

some car owner's manuals have instructions for storage. for my accord, the notables include leaving it with clean oil, lifting the car on jackstands, washing/waxing/covering, cleaning the interior and making sure it is dry, and leaving a window cracked if the vehicle is indoors.

edit: they also recommend a full tank of gas.

 

[biggestmuff]

uh...wrong forum

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: archcommus

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: archcommus
Just curious, ZV, what Porsche did you park in Pittsburgh, and what area of Pittsburgh did you live in? I'm currently going to school at Pitt in Oakland.

When I was in my Sr. year at Pitt in 2003/2004, I had a 1987 924S that I street parked outside of my apartment on Centre Ave. I've got a photo somewhere of the car with about a foot and a half of snow on it.

(Can you tell that I'm a large believer in the idea of driving a car and not babying it? )

ZV

Wow, small world, huh? I'm living in south Oakland, and with how little I need a car there, and with the difficulty of parking and some of the parties those streets see, I'd feel much better leaving it at home, heh.

Yeah, wouldn't recommend street parking in South Oakland, but up around Centre it was pretty nice.

On the other hand South Oakland is much closet to campus and you have Antoon's. (Antoon's Pizza is still there, right?) That place was great, huge Pizza for under $5. Terribly unhealthy, but so, so good.

ZV

 

[archcommus]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: archcommus

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: archcommus
Just curious, ZV, what Porsche did you park in Pittsburgh, and what area of Pittsburgh did you live in? I'm currently going to school at Pitt in Oakland.

When I was in my Sr. year at Pitt in 2003/2004, I had a 1987 924S that I street parked outside of my apartment on Centre Ave. I've got a photo somewhere of the car with about a foot and a half of snow on it.

(Can you tell that I'm a large believer in the idea of driving a car and not babying it? )

ZV

Wow, small world, huh? I'm living in south Oakland, and with how little I need a car there, and with the difficulty of parking and some of the parties those streets see, I'd feel much better leaving it at home, heh.

Yeah, wouldn't recommend street parking in South Oakland, but up around Centre it was pretty nice.

On the other hand South Oakland is much closet to campus and you have Antoon's. (Antoon's Pizza is still there, right?) That place was great, huge Pizza for under $5. Terribly unhealthy, but so, so good.

ZV

Yeah Antoon's is about a block or two from my apartment. I have enjoyed many 4 am pizzas there.

I have to avoid eating that, McD's, and Subway everyday next year.