• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACT: Starting issues

jlee

jlee

Lifer
1998 Corolla - ~180k

We were getting one click when the key was turned to 'start' -- after multiple tries, it would eventually kick over and start normally. Sometimes it would start to turn over, then stop after a few revolutions...try a few more times and it would catch (turn over & start normally).

NAPA tested the starter twice (out of the vehicle) and said it tested fine. Is there anything else it could be?
 
Clean both battery terminals with a wire brush, remove the negative first then the positive, make absolutely sure the key is NOT IN THE IGNITION.
 
Originally posted by: crustyoldman
Clean both battery terminals with a wire brush, remove the negative first then the positive, make absolutely sure the key is NOT IN THE IGNITION.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Sounds like you're getting a bad connection.
 
Originally posted by: ThePresence
Alternator?
Click to expand...

Originally posted by: Maximus96
battery?
Click to expand...

Battery is new..it turns over perfectly when it actually catches. No problems stalling, even after long drives..so I don't think it's the alternator either.

Originally posted by: LoKe
Originally posted by: crustyoldman
Clean both battery terminals with a wire brush, remove the negative first then the positive, make absolutely sure the key is NOT IN THE IGNITION.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Sounds like you're getting a bad connection.
Click to expand...

Hmm..alright. They don't look bad at all, but I'll take a look again. It doesn't seem to be a lack of power, though..all electrical accessories have worked fine, and it's not the 'low battery' click.
 
Hmm..alright. They don't look bad at all, but I'll take a look again. It doesn't seem to be a lack of power, though..all electrical accessories have worked fine, and it's not the 'low battery' click.
Click to expand...

The average starter requires approximately 300 amps thus you can have a bad connection at the battery terminals and all the lights and accessories will work fine except the starter.

The first step in the diagnoses tree is to check all the connections starting with the battery terminals.
 
Originally posted by: crustyoldman
Hmm..alright. They don't look bad at all, but I'll take a look again. It doesn't seem to be a lack of power, though..all electrical accessories have worked fine, and it's not the 'low battery' click.
Click to expand...

The average starter requires approximately 300 amps thus you can have a bad connection at the battery terminals and all the lights and accessories will work fine except the starter.

The first step in the diagnoses tree is to check all the connections starting with the battery terminals.
Click to expand...

The starter works intermittently..and when it does, it turns over with full force. I'm 99% sure that it's not the connections.

Originally posted by: Ornery
Sounds pretty obviously to be the relay/solenoid. It's a ten dollar part, just throw it in there!

Edit: Holy crap, these prices are sick!

Autozone is slightly better...
Click to expand...

A completely new starter is about 165 bucks - there's an OEM Denso one in there now..think it'd be worth spending the extra to replace the whole thing, or just replace the solenoid?
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
Advance Auto Parts, or Murray's sells a Starter Solenoid Repair Kit: "Oe #228000-6660, 2, 3; 1.4kw; Nippondenso", for $17.99. I'd try that first.

If the solenoid was $100.00, and the entire starter/solenoid $160.00, and if the starter was hard to get at, I'd cough up the $160.00.
Click to expand...

The starter itself wasn't too bad (my uncle pulled it - I only saw the aftermath)..but the radiator was pulled for easier access (it's on the front side of the engine). Needed a coolant flush anyway.. 😛

Thanks for the link - we'll probably give the repair kit a shot.
 
Well....didn't change anything -- just put it all back together for the heck of it. It's working perfectly..go figure.
 
Originally posted by: LoKe
Originally posted by: crustyoldman
Clean both battery terminals with a wire brush, remove the negative first then the positive, make absolutely sure the key is NOT IN THE IGNITION.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Sounds like you're getting a bad connection.
Click to expand...

your link to anandtech forums doesn't work
 
Originally posted by: CadetLee

Well....didn't change anything -- just put it all back together for the heck of it. It's working perfectly..go figure.
Click to expand...
Picture the contacts on that relay/solenoid. My guess is they're all pitted, carbon covered, and well worn. The rebuild kit replaces them alone. Emery cloth, a file, or sand blaster might be a good temporary fix. As it is, I predict the problem will return slowly. I doubt you'll be left stranded, because repeatedly turning the ignition key will eventually override the carbon buildup... for a while. It will also cause more arcing and further carbon buildup.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top