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YACT: Oil level rising, but no oil added

Schadenfroh

Schadenfroh

Elite Member
its starting to overheat more and more, the oil level goes up even tho no oil is added. only went about 20 miles before overheating in the chilling cold. all the antifreeze and coolant levels are good, but the oil levels rise and overheats
 
Uh oh .... that can be a blown headgasket and if not fixed, big time trouble. I am no mechanic but have had more than one blow. If that's your case, the added oil is not oil ... it's coolant and it will cause the oil to degrade. had to pay nearly 3 grand to replace an engine becuase it threw a rod as a result of that. My bro had an S-10 that blew the headgasket and he had so much cooloant got in the oil, it caame out the dipstick tube. Better ask someone who knows more about it very soon. Some ways of telling supposedly include examining the oil on the dipstick to see if there is any appearance of water mixed in, checking the inside of the radiator cap to see if there is white residue, and looking in the radiator at the cooloant as the engine runs. If you see many bubbles continuing to come to the surfaqce and burst, that's a potential sign. In one I had, the coolant res. looked like it was boiling there were so many big bubbles, but the coolant waas not hot.

Good luck!
 
Is the coolant disappearing? Is the oil foamy or chocolate-milk colored?

My first reaction was... Make sure you check the oil on a level surface. 😛 Or at least make sure the car is in the same place each time.

As for the overheating..

Were you going at least 25MPH before and while it was overheating?

Does the needle jump around?

Could be thermostat...
 
BTW, you said in the chilling cold .... are you sure your antifreeze is sufficient? I ask because it is possible for it to freeze solid from a slush when you first heat the engine up, perhaps in the block. That can blow freeze plugs or crack blocks, either of which will cause oil to overheat. I don't want to be an alarmist, but were it me, I would immediately examined by a mechanic.

Bekker
 
Can be thermostat or even bad radiator cap, but neither would explain oil level rising unless, like the earlier poster said, you are not checking your oil while on a level surface.
 
Originally posted by: Bekker
BTW, you said in the chilling cold .... are you sure your antifreeze is sufficient? I ask because it is possible for it to freeze solid from a slush when you first heat the engine up, perhaps in the block. That can blow freeze plugs or crack blocks, either of which will cause oil to overheat. I don't want to be an alarmist, but were it me, I would immediately examined by a mechanic.

Bekker
Click to expand...
It's a good thing, too.... 😉


😛
 
I'm with Bekker here.
The oil level 'rises' when the engine is running. Oil level should only be checked with engine off + 10 mins (minimum).
The thermostat can be broken. Check by putting your hand on the coolant hose before and after the thermostat. If the hose is cold but engine is warm then it's broken.

If the coolant and oil looks good this is a probable cause. If the oil looks milky or the coolant has an oily film on it you could have a blown headgasket or a leak in the intake manifold.

What car/engine?
 
Originally posted by: DarkManX
what kinda car/engine? must be a GM.
Click to expand...

rolleye.gif

No other cars than GM blows a headgasket or what?
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
I'm with Bekker here.
The oil level 'rises' when the engine is running. Oil level should only be checked with engine off + 10 mins (minimum).
The thermostat can be broken. Check by putting your hand on the coolant hose before and after the thermostat. If the hose is cold but engine is warm then it's broken.

If the coolant and oil looks good this is a probable cause. If the oil looks milky or the coolant has an oily film on it you could have a blown headgasket or a leak in the intake manifold.

What car/engine?
Click to expand...
Um.....the oil level definitely does not 'rise' when it is running, it actually goes down to a level that is the result of the difference between what the oil pump can keep circulating in the engine and the amount that drains back to the pan. The only reason the dipstick shows a higher level while running in some cars is because of the violent splash created by the reciprocating mass of the crank and rods that basically bathes the entire dipstick in oil.

I do agree though that if the oil is not 'milky' then the culprit is more than likely a thernostat that is stuck closed. If you want to test this simply remove the thermostat and put it in a pan of water on the stove with a candy thermometer and heat the water and take notice of what temp the thermostat begins to open and when it is fully open. It is quite possivle yours either never opens at all or only opens part way.

 
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
I'm with Bekker here.
The oil level 'rises' when the engine is running. Oil level should only be checked with engine off + 10 mins (minimum).
The thermostat can be broken. Check by putting your hand on the coolant hose before and after the thermostat. If the hose is cold but engine is warm then it's broken.

If the coolant and oil looks good this is a probable cause. If the oil looks milky or the coolant has an oily film on it you could have a blown headgasket or a leak in the intake manifold.

What car/engine?
Click to expand...
Um.....the oil level definitely does not 'rise' when it is running, it actually goes down to a level that is the result of the difference between what the oil pump can keep circulating in the engine and the amount that drains back to the pan. The only reason the dipstick shows a higher level while running in some cars is because of the violent splash created by the reciprocating mass of the crank and rods that basically bathes the entire dipstick in oil.

I do agree though that if the oil is not 'milky' then the culprit is more than likely a thernostat that is stuck closed. If you want to test this simply remove the thermostat and put it in a pan of water on the stove with a candy thermometer and heat the water and take notice of what temp the thermostat begins to open and when it is fully open. It is quite possivle yours either never opens at all or only opens part way.
Click to expand...


I wrote 'rise' within the brackets because it looks like it rises on the dipstick. I know it doesn't rise, it just looks like it when it's getting thrown around inside.
 
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
Originally posted by: Ronstang
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
I'm with Bekker here.
The oil level 'rises' when the engine is running. Oil level should only be checked with engine off + 10 mins (minimum).
The thermostat can be broken. Check by putting your hand on the coolant hose before and after the thermostat. If the hose is cold but engine is warm then it's broken.

If the coolant and oil looks good this is a probable cause. If the oil looks milky or the coolant has an oily film on it you could have a blown headgasket or a leak in the intake manifold.

What car/engine?
Click to expand...
Um.....the oil level definitely does not 'rise' when it is running, it actually goes down to a level that is the result of the difference between what the oil pump can keep circulating in the engine and the amount that drains back to the pan. The only reason the dipstick shows a higher level while running in some cars is because of the violent splash created by the reciprocating mass of the crank and rods that basically bathes the entire dipstick in oil.

I do agree though that if the oil is not 'milky' then the culprit is more than likely a thernostat that is stuck closed. If you want to test this simply remove the thermostat and put it in a pan of water on the stove with a candy thermometer and heat the water and take notice of what temp the thermostat begins to open and when it is fully open. It is quite possivle yours either never opens at all or only opens part way.
Click to expand...

I wrote 'rise' within the brackets because it looks like it rises on the dipstick. I know it doesn't rise, it just looks like it when it's getting thrown around inside.
Click to expand...
Cool....I just read it wrong then, sounded bad. You have to be more clear around some of the understanding challeneged that inhabit this place so I tend to try and explain things so they cannot be misunderstood. Sorry.



 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: Bekker
BTW, you said in the chilling cold .... are you sure your antifreeze is sufficient? I ask because it is possible for it to freeze solid from a slush when you first heat the engine up, perhaps in the block. That can blow freeze plugs or crack blocks, either of which will cause oil to overheat. I don't want to be an alarmist, but were it me, I would immediately examined by a mechanic.

Bekker
Click to expand...
It's a good thing, too.... 😉


😛
Click to expand...

LOL ... yeah, think maybe I left out a word? Come on, leave me alone. I am trying to make up a test for marketing research to give my students Monday and my brain is fried. Think it should have read immediately have it examined.....

As to the oil rising while running, I assume Scghadenfroh knows how to sheck the oil and wiped the dipstick clean before measuring it after running and that he did not check it with the engine running. If not, the oil reading he took meant nothing since it was probably splashup as the earlier poster said.

As to what the funny what kind of car (GM) comment, brother can I relate to that. One Cadillac with Deisel engine, blown headgasket and $400 repair, second a Grand Am owned by daughter, third a Seville owned by me (I was really dumb on that one because when I checked the oil before making a "must" trip, the oil level was too high and I knew that was likely the culprit, but I had to make the trip anyway.
Damage? Another $400 HG repair, but too much damage had already been done. After the repair, on the way home from the shop, threw a rod and the entire engine had to be replaced. No used anywhere in US according to salvage yard searches (4.1 liter bad engine reputation) and GM dealer was unable to locate one anywhere through GM network ... finally found one new/reman in the entire US (had called the reman plant and they ran split shifts, half year one type of engine, next half the 4.1). Cost of engine, 2100 cause the local Service manager was a friend (GM price was $3700) and I had the vocational tech dept of our school do the replacement. About $2500 total. Now I have a 98 Aurora that is leaking oil topside and they just put dye in it because it looks like another headgasket job. Hope to heck not. What did they all have in common? GM engines. How many friends or relatives driving Ford or Chrysler have had to replace HG during that time? None. Seems like I would learn sometime!

Hope it is the thermostat, Generally, when mine have gone out, they have stuck and the engine overheated very fast.



Bek
 
well its very common on GM cars
here is the GM service bulletin regarding the issue:

Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010A - (04/08/2003)
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket)
2000-2003 Buick Century

2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous

1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV

1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture

1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina

1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo

2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala

1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero

1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport

1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am

2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana

2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek

with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)

This bulletin is being revised to change the Procedure and Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010 (Section 06 - Engine).

Condition
Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.

Cause
Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.


----
thats a pretty big chunk of passanger GM cars, i just replaced all the head gaskets and valve cover gaskets on my 99 Grand am, The dealer wanted 700$. (the car just reached 32k miles)
 
That's 1 scarey list! Maybe my Aurora has that problem. Hope not cause I am not sure my warranty covers that.

Bek
 
warenty does cover it, when my leak started the car was at 31k miles, but it was over 3 years old, so i was screwed. There is a class-auction lawsuit againts this though, and when people complain enough to GM about the problem they will cover half the cost (for out of warranty repairs)
 
I bought mine used and got an aftermarket warranty that's good to 100,000 miles so mine was never officially warrantied to me by GM. I don't know if I would be included in any such suit, but since Aurora is not on the list, probably not. Best of luck with yours!

Bek
 
oh ok, what kinda engine is it? isnt the V8 aurora engine a modified northstar engine? are you useing Dex-cool or plain anti-freeze?
 
Yes, it is a modified Nstar ... about the only difference is the Nstar is 4600 cc and Aur is 4000. I cannot tell you what I am running, but am sure it is correct (I hope) because the dealer had to replace the radiator and they installed the coolant. Until you mentioned it, I had forgotten about exhaust manifold gasket ... had to have that replaced on another Cadillac and was furious because I took it to a private shop and was told it was a plug that would cost about $10 to replace. I left it and got a call a few days later telling me it was that and I thought it was too old to actuallyly tie that much up in repairs, so I said I would pick it up and not to fix it. The mechanic said it was too late necause to track the leak down they had had to take the man off and the car was all apart. Minimum cost to repair was $460! I paid him, but made him take it in installments. Gad them change plugs too and they ruined the threads in one cylinder ... cliff notes: Had to sell for salvage for $100.

Bek
 
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